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Michael Spies
Michael Spies

Michael Spies

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  • Michael SpiesEagles fly, deserts call!Michael Spies
    Windows are very low because people sit/ lie on the floor.One room for a familyAn Atar side-roadCamels in the center of townThe main road of AtarA few tins with vegetables in a small shelf and 5 persons sitting on the floor chatting"Camping Bab Sahara": Two days amid the chaos of Atar in a small Oasis"Breathe out" after 7 days in the desertToday, in 2017 Elfi's husband Charly died. We lit a candle for him today.,♥️Breakfast under trees, while all around the craziness of Atar is taking placeLeoni ran "Bab Sahara" in this crazy environment together with her husband. He died last year.

    How people live. Atar

    December 10, 2025 in Mauritania ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    Atar is a dust bowl in a state of chaos. Tiny houses, families living on the floor with goats running in between the rubbish piles, Tiny stalls all selling the same few goods. 50year old Mercedes Benz, held together with tape, transporting at least 7 persons. Without lights or indicators, frequently without windows.. Donkeys and camels standing around waiting for their next task.
    Meat and fish stalls consisting of a table standing in the sun, where various pieces of meat, covered by flies, lie waiting all day.
    Women sitting on the sandy pavement, holding their baby and selling fresh bread.
    In between, the constant calling to prayer of the Muezzins already starting at 4 in the morning.
    Oh my god!
    What a tsunami of impressions,
    all making me shudder.    Read more

  • Michael SpiesEagles fly, deserts call!Michael Spies
    Sunset at Ben Amira
    Ben Amira, the second largest Monolith in the worldBedouin campInvitation to teaMorning coffee, ans suddenly a flock of goats comes byHow we all end upCamel scratching himselfArt carved into the rocks of Aicha in the name of peaceRound view from the top of AischaAnd now you know why she is called Aisha!

    Ben Amira and Aischa

    December 7, 2025 in Mauritania ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    Our route follows the train line through the dunes to the two world leading Monoliths Ben Amira and Aicha.

    Legend tells, many years ago Ben Amira married his beloved Aischa and they received two sons. They lived happily in paradise together with their maid.
    Drought came and Amira left for the capital Nouakchott where he stayed many years.
    And you guess the rest of the story,
    Aicha found herself a lover., Veleklek.

     When Amira returned, he was so furious that he hit Veleklek so hard with his head that the latter flew 50km to the north and Amira ended up with a huge dent in his head.
    Amira was so sad that he took his two sons and moved 7km away.
    Aischa kept her maid. And so the two live on, both wearing their black grief robes.

    Mind you, Amira is the second largest monolith in the world!
    So, in the year 2000 a group of Stone masons from around the globe assembled around Aischa to create art for peace.    Read more

  • Michael SpiesEagles fly, deserts call!Michael Spies
    The thundering dragon is so loud, you hear it 30 minutes away
    Bull dozers clearing the first 10 km before the off road track of 800km beginsSmall village at the end of the road"the normal" rubbish everywhereLooking fo a hotel for the night? You sleep on a mat on the floorThe dune track beginsStraight rails fo 100kmsThundering dragon amidst clouds of diesel smokeThe one Passenger car2kms of iron ore trainIn the middle of nowhere a shepherd with his 6 goatsPretty hot hereA small village at half wayThis land rover didn't have one flat tire but three, and no pump. We pumped him upA derailed oron ore waggon1

    Thundering Dragon! The Iron ore train.

    December 3, 2025 in Mauritania ⋅ ☁️ 24 °C

    About 50% of Mauritania's GDP stems from one Iron ore mine in the Sahara in Zouerat. An infamous 2km long train transports the ore through the desert to Nouadibou for shipment. Dunes block the tracks, trains have derailed and the train is the life line of huge desert regions not connected by roads. If you can't afford to travel in the one Passenger waggon you sit on top of the iron ore together with the live sheep you are bringing to the market.
    This train is legend.    Read more

  • Michael SpiesEagles fly, deserts call!Michael Spies
    1Proud father
    Nursery school, Mother camels with their babiesThe west Sahara, a straight road for a 1000 kmsElfi, doing her best to keep a straight head1We cross the border and the first impression is rubbishNouadibou Rubbish service, by the look of things, they come once per monthAn every day shopping streetIt doesn't get better than thisThe carpet shop. Carpets on the pavementDonkey waiting for his next transport jobClothing boutiqueMidday prayer, those that didn't make it into the MosheeThe owner of the cosmetic shop.They had everything here, the most expensive cosmetics, at 10% of normal cost.And then we left town for the coast, no dirt, no noiseWorkers driving home from Nouadibou harbour where Iron ore is loaded on ships

    Mauritania, This is where Africa begins.

    November 30, 2025 in Mauritania ⋅ ☁️ 25 °C

    At last tha long drive through the west Sahara is behind us, and we spend our last night on a parking spot directly at the border. It is also time to get rid of all drugs and alcohol, unless we feel like 10 years in prison. So we get really drunk and finally smoke the Weed that we have been carrying all through Marocco.
    The Border crossing took 8 hours! No surprise when you have experienced Irak and Iran.
    But entering Nouadibou on the other side was a culture shock. With a bang! If Marocco was a rubbish dump then I have no words for Mauritania. Statistically it is the poorest country on earth, and you feel it.
    And yet it knocks me over, the people go about living, loving, and dying like everywhere else, however on a level we cannot imagine. Our Sprinti is like an oasis in the midst of chaos and Armageddon.    Read more

  • Michael SpiesEagles fly, deserts call!Michael Spies
    1What a wonderful dinnerFyad from Liberia looked after our every needPascal the hotel catThe last morningLoic, owner of "Oasis". Thank you for three beautiful day's ♥️

    An "OASIS" in Daklah

    November 25, 2025 in Morocco ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

    Daklah is the southern most town of Marocco before the Mauritanian border and known for it's incredible Kite surfing winds in summer.
    It is being developed at hair-raising speed by the Maroccan Government to bring wealth to this desert region. Among other, by 2029 north Africa's largest fishing and container harbour will be completed.
    We decide to spoil ourselves for three days before we head into the desert for 2 months and ended up in the cutest boutique hotel imaginable., the "OASIS". And by God was is an oasis! Three wonderful days of relaxing, reading, phoning with family and good food.
    After two months of travelling this was like a breath of fresh air.
    It is with bleeding hearts that we now leave the "OASIS" and head into the real Sahara of Mauritania.❤️    Read more

  • Michael SpiesEagles fly, deserts call!Michael Spies
    Tan-Tan
    Normal transportSalt eats everythingHaoui en Naam CascadesLots of dead wild donkeys here, water too salty?Paving the way with stones for our crossing tomorrowWild donkeys comming to the few sweet water water sourcesMANTOCO breaks down two huge bolts holding the springs have simply sheered-offThis 100km road repeatedly blocked by wandering dunes. Turn off and weave your way throughAgain a duneAnd another!Fishers near DaklahBoat full of fishThe other type of fishingFishers live in tents on the beach

    On to Daklah

    November 20, 2025 in Morocco ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

    Today we head to the Houi en Naam 100km off the road to Daklah.
    The water flowing here is absolutely salty and undrinkable, but there are wild donkeys here that seem to survive.
    The return trip takes most of a day as dunes have crossed the road everywhere requiring us to turn off and weave our way through.
    Suddenly MANTOCO is standing by the road, two huge bolts holding the suspension have simply sheared off. Thank god they have extra bolts with them.
    I ask myself what on earth I will do if something lake that happens to us. We have very few spare parts with us.
    I decide to trust in Allah like the Tuaregs and Berbers. "INSCHALLAH"!    Read more

  • Michael SpiesEagles fly, deserts call!Michael Spies
    Sand track into the dunes
    Today Elfi is captainSand sand sandIn the middle of endless sand, suddenly waterAn old Fort, remnant of the former colony West SaharaBerber tent1Our place for the nightSprinti perched on the cliffsThe track drops off. Do I drive down this slope or look for a path through the maize of dunesThen "Mocca" the truck from Frank and Christina comes by and we scout a path togetherCrawling up a sand slope. It took three tries!A old Spanish fort eroding away through salt and sand1Ksar Tafnidit a beautiful castle in the desertKsar Tafnidit a beautiful cc astle in the desertMagdalie le Hérissé, a previous rally driver built the Ksar with her husband who died last yearMagdali's trusted aid running the place together with her since the death of her husbandThe air rally, Toulouse-Tarfaya comes by here every second yearBeautifully decorated towers

    Our first dune experience

    November 19, 2025 in Morocco ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    Today we had our first "dune" experience.
    While following a track for about 100km things got sandier and sandier, until We found ourselves more and more confronted with dunes blocking our path. Suddenly we found ourselves standing on a small dune looking at a steep drop-off., with the decision to either take the risk to drive down this drop or to spend hours searching for a way to pass through the dune field. That was when "Mocca" the truck of Frank and Christina suddenly arrived. Looking for the way through dunes is always better when you have several heads working..Read more

  • Michael SpiesEagles fly, deserts call!Michael Spies
    This tiny village at 2000m is at the end of a frightening road winding up into the mountains.Amazing buildings in this tiny villageNo where to park, so we reversed into the river bed

    Climbing the Jebel l'Kest

    November 12, 2025 in Morocco ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C

    In the Anti atlas near Tafraoute lies the Aammeln Valley. In the years of draught in the 70ties, most families sent at least one child to France. Money which came back led to most families building really fancy homes, which relative to the rest of Marocco is really striking.
    We drove up an incredibly steep multi-hairpin road to 2000 meters into a tiny village without a name to hike up the Jebel L Jest.
    This country simply doesn't stop surprising me!    Read more

  • Michael SpiesEagles fly, deserts call!Michael Spies
    Agadir Tasguent made of stamped clay perches on a hill
    Door leading into courtyard of the castleSecond door leading into the interiorA contract written on a piece of wood.Local authorities dad an inventory stamping everything in the AgadirA Berber lock. Pins fall from above into the lock blocking it. A key of bronze lifts these pinsThe keyholeMore contractsUtensils and jugs for oilCorridor leading to the heart of the buildingSlabs protruding from the wall are used to climb to the various "safe rooms"Entrance to a "safe" roomJug for storing valuable Argan oilDried carrotsStairs leading up to the captain's quartersThe door to the captain's quartersDrawing water from the well in the interior.Signs of gun fightDate 1969, list of goods deposited by the familiesA ledger of what the families have paid to the captainEntrance to a "safe" roomDown below the soldiers had their living quartersThe kitchen of the soldiers

    Agadir Tasguent, the bank of the Berber

    November 11, 2025 in Morocco ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    Around 1000AD the Berber kingdom spanned the whole of north western Africa, and was led by a wise, warrior Queen, around whom whole legends are woven. These Berbers already had a system of banks, called "AGADIR" for the storage and protection of their valuables.
    About 12 villages shared one AGADIR, a type of fortress on a hill managed by a captain, a person of trust with a team of guards. In the AGADIR we're tiny rooms, each rented to one family where they could store their "Riches". Berber gold and jewellery was buried in covered holes in the walls or floor. To remember where the holes were, they would code the number of handwidths from a certain point in the room. Furthermore they stored their contracts here. Due to the lack of paper, these were written on a piece of wood and signed by both parties under whitness. Other treasures were garments, argan oil, grain and even dried vegetables.
    The AGADIR Tasguent, which had 360 compartments, is world heritage but has been closed to visits due to danger of collapse. A local villager who had access, gave us an exclusive tour spiked by many stories.
    In 1969 several years after maroccan indépendance, the captain of this AGADIR robbed what valuables he could find by breaking into the various compartments and disappeared to Paris.
    Now, does that remind us of the banks we have today??????    Read more

  • Michael SpiesEagles fly, deserts call!Michael Spies
    Flower of the day
    So? Where do I drive today?The most exciting track I have ever experienced1A video tells more than 100 fotos1The track is hardly wider than 2m and this van suddenly appears. He backs up to the next curve!The road is so narrow that we have to fold in our mirrors to get through this village1And then the unbelievable! A motorcade of 20 SUV'S followed by an ambulance and a tank vehicle.Police and military accompaniment1An endless motorcade followed by ambulance and tank vehicleThe tank vehicle following the ambulancePlease bord, departure in 5.minutesAnd off we go, through the mountains and villages, holding on for our livesOne lone teapot, looking for it's lid

    The king of Marocco comes by

    November 8, 2025 in Morocco ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    What an exciting day today, and an exercise in total trust!
    Elfi drove one of the most beautiful mountain tracks I have ever encountered today. Hardly more than 2 meters wide, Vertical drop offs and frightening hair-pin bends on a washed-out path.
    And once arrived in "commune Al Tifnoute" the army suddenly blocked off the village, full in the middle of its weekly market, for a motorcade of 20 SUV vehicles with black windows followed by an ambulance and a small tanker vehicle.
    The last time I heard of this sort of treatment it concerned the "Sultan of Oman".
    When I asked a bystander who is driving by, the answer was:"the king". This was followed by a shrug of the shoulders,😁
    As soon as they disappeared the market and village continued as if nothing had ever happened.    Read more

  • Michael SpiesEagles fly, deserts call!Michael Spies
    Renovated Kaspah tower
    Breackfast in the middle of nowhere to cool blues music😁1KaspahWomen walk miles to place their water containers next to the road where a water truck fills them!Brocken KaspahAit Ben Haddou, Backdrop to numerous block bustersBen Haddou main gateHoedes of chinese tourists wearing masksWhen I saw this sigh, I knew it was time to run!!!!!Quarzazate film studios planted in the middle of the desert.Atlas film studios

    The road of the Kaspah's, Quarzazate

    October 27, 2025 in Morocco ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    Kaspah's were the previous palaces of wealthy families. In the past they were made of stamped-mud bricks. Today most have been abandoned and are slowly eroding away.
    But most faszinating was Ben Haddou, a stamped-clay town on the slope of a hill which has been the backdrop for numerous block buster movies, among other "james Bond", "Game of thrones", "lawrence of Arabia", "Gladiator" and "Dune".
    We entered the town with the plan to stroll through this beautiful location but left it screaming when we saw hundreds of tour busses with chinese tourists wearing face masks!😁

    Shortly afterwards follows Quarzazate a totally unreal large city in the middle of the desert and home to a Hollywood style film studios and "Noor", the largest solar thermal powerstation with thousands of sun-tracking mirrors facing a huge tower and generating temperatures of over 700 degrees centigrade.    Read more

  • Michael SpiesEagles fly, deserts call!Michael Spies

    Okaimeden - Mohammed Cous Cous

    October 26, 2025 in Morocco ⋅ ☁️ 10 °C

    On our second evening, when returning from our climb I bumped into Mohammed Couscous who was walking back to his village after an unsucessful day of trying to sell a few fossils to the three tourists that he had met. It was freezing cold, his shoes worn through and clothes tattered, but he spoke french!
    Elfi and I rummaged through our clothes and gave him everything that wad not essential, clothes, shoes, and several packs of coffee we had with us inviting him to sell them if he wants to generate some income for his 5 kids.
    He spoke of desperate poverty in the region!
    Oh my god, how privileged and lucky we are❤️    Read more

  • Michael SpiesEagles fly, deserts call!Michael Spies
    Our flower of the day taken from Marrakesh
    Higher and higherAutumn colours above 2000mOur road winding around the mountainsOkaimeden, still many locals looking after their sheep living in stamped clay hutsOur place for the nightOur place for the nightChez "Juju"Morning glory above the cloudsShepherdSleeping beauty waking up😁Shepherd1000m of Okaimeden peak ahead of usAt 3000m this beautiful one room appartment with a view. Unfortunatly access by foot😁The peak at last! We have never huffed and puffed so much!Small villages on the slopes on the way down

    Goodbye Marrakesh, on to Okaimeden

    October 26, 2025 in Morocco ⋅ ⛅ 10 °C

    The last thing I would expect to find in Marocco is a ski resort, and yet,
    Okaimeden is just that, a ski resort!
    The village, at 2609m is full of chalets and typical french ski resort hotels. Okaimeden peak reaches 3255 meters with a view on the high altlas chain of mountains all over 4000meters, among other, the 4167 meter Jebel Toubkal.
    And now the sad part.
    The village is empty, with exception of a few locals and sheep, the fancy hotels are falling apart and the lifts are broken.
    Everywhere decay!
    One small cozy Gite, "chez Juju" is still open, but not even they have guests. "Juju" founded the gite in 1946 in the days when they still had 4 meters of snow and you hiked up the mountain with skins under your skis. Modern lifts followed, hotels sprung up.
    Today average snow in winter is 50cm, the tourists are gone and everything is falling apart. Listening to locals talking of the "old times" is agonizing! They speak of constant mountain streams of water, all summer long, today everything is dry.    Read more

  • Michael SpiesEagles fly, deserts call!Michael Spies
    Mohammed Tari
    1Salah Nasiri runs "artisanats africain" art and cloths while his father drives around west Africa.Aziz el Khanjar specialist for Touareg and Berber art and uncle of Salah NasiriMohamed Tari invited us for a cup of tea on our last dayMohamed TariToureg table i. The shop of Aziz el KhanjarIncredible mirrors in shop of Abdil El AsrAfrican bronze statues from Ghana1

    Marrakesh 4

    October 22, 2025 in Morocco ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C

    Right next door to Hassan Fessie making brass lamps, in the same back yard complex, were three guys producing mosaik tables in a workshop no bigger than 10m2. The Mosaics were chiseled out of clay pieces with utmost precision using a tiny hammer.
    Before leaving Marrakesh we returned to the courtyard of Atisains Africaune to say goodbye to the wonderful people we had met there: Salah Nasiri and hi uncle Aziz el Khanjar and , Mohammid Tari who poured some wonderful tea as a farewell.    Read more

  • Michael SpiesEagles fly, deserts call!Michael Spies
    In a dark ally way, suddenly a decorated door!
    Our riad entrance in a pitch dark allywayInside a serine oasis1Terrace with view over marrakeshRiad at nightAnd off we go into the chaos, racing scooters in 1,50m wide ally waysA real shoe maker!Artisan minutely honing a brass lampTypical lamp workshopDrilling one million holesTaking a siesta in his "everything shop", bicycle saddles, water kettles and everything else1960ies washing machines, broom, water kettles, and cooking potsSimply everythingThe xat food storeScoolers everywhereThe sheep he just killed, being cut up weighed and sold in piecesTourist rubbish1 cubic meter of parsleyLamp storeTransporters waiting for customersAnd then I discovered this inconspicous jewel "Artisinat Africaine" full of african art,Beautiful african art from west africa and Marocco

    Marrakesh, an insane boiling pot.

    October 20, 2025 in Morocco ⋅ ☀️ 31 °C

    Marrakesh is a mirror our arrival at our our Riad in town, (riad = traditional Maroccan town house) .
    We walked through narrow, dirty, incredibly loud, stinking ally ways at 35deg. with hooting scooters racing by, and shouting carts pushing through. Then we turned down a tiny pitch-dark ally way into a dark tunnel, wondering where the hell we are. Suddenly on our left a decorated door with knocker. We knock, and enter into a court yard, with fountain and trees in the middle, surrounded by 5 beautiful maroccan rooms and TOTAL SERENITY! An oasis in the middle of chaos.
    Marrakesh is crazy, it is everything! Claustrophobic, Loud, dirty, stinking, beautiful, artistic, fascinating, touriststic, warmth, politeness, agressiveness, stress. Acute poverty crashes head-on into extreme wealth.
    And it is totally exhausting!
    It was like a roller coaster ride.
    Merchants and artisans, motor cycles and carts, incredible african and arabic art next to the most terrible touristic rubbish, luxury restaurants next to the street butcher that imediately grills the sheep he just killed.
    Simply crazy!    Read more

  • Michael SpiesEagles fly, deserts call!Michael Spies
    Gin tonic at sunset!
    A small game of Backgammon to keep our brains fitWho do you think won?Incredible sunset in front of our gin-tonic5-star dinner after one month of "Sprinti" mealsMarocxan architecture, and decorationInner courtyard, a small paradiseVerdant garden, while around us is semi desertOld Berber doors

    Kasbah Bab Ourika

    October 19, 2025 in Morocco ⋅ ⛅ 26 °C

    While preparing for this trip in Germany Elfi and I watched a film on Netflix called "Love in Marocco". It was absolutely terrible, but parts of it were filmed in an incredibly beautiful Kasbah, today a boutique hotel decorated in exclusive maroccan style.
    As we neared Marrakesh we remembered the film and researched where it was located and decided to spend a night in this incredible location and really spoil ourselves.
    I phoned them, only to hear that they were booked out for the months in advance. We decided to look at the place none-the-less, eat a luxury meal and then sleep somewhere else in our "Sprinti".
    Oh my god, were we spoiled! The place was incredible. The evening began with gin tonic (hardly available in this Islamic country) while watching the sun set, then continued with an incredible meal and wine.
    As we returned to our car I passed a seated british gentleman talking to the hotel manager and spontaneously developed a really nice conversation. It turned out to be the founder and owner of the Kasbah.
    He promptly offered us the room they keep in reserve for VIP'S.
    And so it came that every staff member knew that we were befriended with the owner. They carried us on hands!!!
    And so, we spent two days in heaven.😁    Read more

  • Michael SpiesEagles fly, deserts call!Michael Spies
    1Beautiful Berber carpets woven in the winter months
    My favourite carpet shopTough negotiations!Presenting their wareThe deal has been closed and huge quantities of cash change handsThe carpets are packed and ready for shipment by DHLHappy sellers and buyers❤️The cascades d'OuzoudA visit from our friends. He suddenly jumped up from the ground to my shoulder. I wasn't at all sureToday was washing dayThe flower of the day❤️No space in the car, then we go on the roof

    Cascades d'Ouzoud, major negotiations!

    October 17, 2025 in Morocco ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    On the way to Marrakesh we passed the cascades d'ouzoud. A 100 meter waterfall that used to transport huge quantities of water is today just a memory of the past.
    Obviously it is overrun by tourists, but it had ONE very exceptional carpet shop run by Abdelkabhir and his nephew Yassir Ben who regularly visits Berber families in the Atlas mountains where the women weave the most unbelievable carpets during the long winter months. I promptly fell totally in love with one of the carpets. While trying to negotiate the price, the number of carpets kept increasing. Due to "complexity" of the negotiations we posponed to the next morning. After breakfast we continued, I told him about our trip and how I had produced hashisch at the "weed farmers", he told me about his visits to the weavers in the mountains and how they use natural dyes for the wool, I told him about my family and kids in Germany and he told me about how each carpet he buys is like a child to him especially the one carpet I loved most which he called his best horse! We dealed-and-wheeled for three hours with breaks for tea and discussions with our "back-up teams" (Elfi and his uncle).
    All the while Elfi had philosophical discussions with his uncle about ethics, beauty and bought some earrings😁
    Finally the deal was closed! 6 carpets for an absolute fortune😁    Read more

  • Michael SpiesEagles fly, deserts call!Michael Spies
    Road construction as a way to get employment into the poorest regions
    Truck drivers transporting immense quantities of rocks hacked out of the mountains to create roadsQuarries to sive gravel for the surfacesThe result, not quite the kind of off-road tracks I loveA prety big mess in a pristine mountaneous region.Diesel dor the trucks at 2600 metersBrick layers building complex support walls for roadsBack in the untouched Atlas mountainsOn the way homeLooking after the flockNew road surfaces for the locals.But she doesn't have a car and uses the old method by foot

    Road construction as development aid.

    October 17, 2025 in Morocco ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    The Riff mountains, as well as the central-, and high-Atlas mountains are home to the Berber tribes. We have experienced this region as one of extreme poverty, with people sometimes totally desperate, begging us to buy something, anything, just so that they can have some money. It tears my heart to experience this, especilly when one realizes that they are talking about several "Dirhams", less than 50 Euro cents.
    It seems the region is totally disconnected from the development marocco has gone through in the last decades. Houses are made of stamped clay frequently in total disrepair, transport is by donkey, cooking is with wood. Water, which was once readily available in the mountains has becom a magor problem as the drought continues. Villages are dying out and the cultural heritage of personal jewelery and family carpets is being sold to the markets in Marrakesh to people like us, to generate at least some money for the families. It is all very sad!

    What we have noticed is that there is massive road construction and repair work taking place all over, especially in the Atlas mountains where tracks leading tens of kilomerters to tiny villages in the high mountains are widened and graded. These multi-year projects train and use locals, also in qualified positions, such as truck drivers, operators of machine shovels and other infra structure.
    This brings desperately needed income into the region, villages and families.    Read more

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