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  • 34足跡
  • 2,727日間
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  • Yangon

    2018年1月22日, ミャンマー ⋅ 🌙 23 °C

    After starting the day in Inle Lake where we had an extremely cold ( even for Canadians) boat ride, we finished up in Yangon in the afternoon where it was 34 degrees and very humid. The first time we have felt really tropical weather on this trip. We did a walking tour of downtown viewing some of the old colonial buildings, many of which are in a poor state of repair. The city is mixed with some very modern North American hotels and shopping malls and some old buildings with mildew growing all over them and being quite run down. Lots of street vendors selling all kinds of foodstuffs, street food and bits and pieces. After a walk around for an hour we visited some other sights by car. The first was a very large reclining Buddha surrounded as ever by many smaller images all housed in a large covered space.

    The main attraction is the Shwedagon Pagoda which is very impressive indeed. The main pagoda is surrounded by multiple smaller pagodas. The main dome is covered with gold plate and the lower levels with mere gold leaf. At the top is a kind of umbrella which is filled with people’s jewelery which they donate. The final spire is crusted with diamonds and at the top is a 76 caret diamond- so much for poor monks. Actually all these things are donated by individuals all trying to buy their way to a better reincarnation. People here are very generous to their religion. While we were at the temple, we saw about 100 people organised in teams sweeping and mopping the floors. Our guide said people just show up to do this when they have a bit of spare time on their hands - mostly people who cannot afford to give money, so they volunteer their time.

    The variety and style of the lesser pagodas was also amazing. Many of them have specific purposes, ie pray here for a male baby, pray here for a female baby , stick a bit of gold leaf on this Buddha on the part of his body where you hurt, and you will be healed, etc etc. We stayed until sunset when the light on the buildings made for some terrific photographs. All the time we were at the temple, a monk was chanting over a loudspeaker. Apparently they chant all day from 5:00 am until 10:00 pm in a language that no one outside of the monks understands!

    For dinner we found a genuine Italian restaurant, so got a break for orientalist food - how North American of us! We will be back to eating lots of noodles and rice as we travel further into Thailand, Laos and beyond.
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  • Inle lake

    2018年1月21日, ミャンマー ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C

    After the two days in Bangan we flew onto Inle Lake. The landscape is totally different, being about 1000 mtrs above sea level and quite lush. The climate and soil here is so good that they harvest four crops a year. The lake itself is about 20kms by 10kms but is very shallow, only about 12 ft at the deepest. One third of the lake is covered with floating gardens on which the farmers grow a variety of vegetables - tomatoes being the biggest crop. Transportation on the lake is via boats which are very long but thin like a long canoe. They are powered by one cylinder Chinese engines that make a huge racket. The tourists sit in wooden deck chairs one behind the other in the boat, but we suspect the locals just sit crossed legged in the bottom - the more passengers the water taxis can fit in, the more money they make. The boats travel at about 30mph so it’s quite a cool ride, especially early in the morning!

    To get to our hotel, we had to take one of these boats, but first we went sightseeing for a few hours. We set off across the lake passing fishermen and workers harvesting the weed from the lake for fertiliser. We stopped for lunch at a place on the lake that was built on stilts. Brian was persuaded by our guide to rider the local fish dish - bad decision - afterwards he got yet another bad dose of Delhi Belly - will he ever learn? After lunch we visited a local a village where all the houses were on stilts in the water. We visited a weaving factory that was a family business, with everyone from cousins, to uncles to aunts working there. There were some outside workers - all women doing the weaving. Next we visited the boatyard, where they make all the canoes for the lake. Quite amazing! Everything is done by hand using hand tools - no power tools at all. They start with a huge piece from a teak tree and cut it into a square log - all by hand. Then cut the teak logs into planks, make and fit all the ribs, all done by eye. The boats vary from 15 ft for fishing and local transport to 50 ft for the tourist boats. Apparently a boat will last for four generations and takes about six men a month to complete.

    On the way to the hotel we went through some of the floating gardens. The farmers take a patch from a floating island, made up from water hyacinths and weed, they then float it back to their lake plot and anchor it in place by driving bamboo stakes into the lake bed. They then build up silt and fertiliser on it until they have enough depth to grow tomatoes, cucumbers, peas and beans, peppers, etc. The gardens are arranged in rows with water between as the farmers have to weed and harvest from their boats.

    We finally arrived at our hotel ( by this time Brian was taking no interest in any of the proceedings) and checked in. The accommodation was in individual villas which featured low beds set in the middle of the floor with a mosquito net that hung from the roof 20ft above. There was also a bath tub set in the centre of the bathroom floor. All of course built on stilts beside the lake.

    The next day Anne proceeded on the sightseeing on her own with Brian deciding to spend the day in quiet contemplation by the pool.

    Today I went off with the guide to view 1,054 stupas on the mainland at the south end of the lake. To get there we took one of the rivers that flow into the lake - the water comes from the mountains on the west side and that is a lot of water. It was like doing a gentle white water rafting! Every now and then we come up to a barricade made from bamboo (to try and stop silt and garbage getting into the lake). When we came to one the boat an would rev up and almost fly over the barricade and then plop back down in the water - thank goodness Brian decided to stay back at the hotel! We finally got to the location where the stupas were - a lot were in disrepair and had vegetation growing out of them - one even had a tree! Most of them dated back to the 17th century and are gradually being renovated. Very interesting place to visit. We boated through the lake village again, stopping off to watch a silversmith at work, then off to the middle of the lake to view yet another temple. I declined to eat lunch at a lakeside restaurant and returned back to the hotel.

    All in all we really enjoyed our time at Inle Lake. The hotel was superb, the staff couldn’t have been nicer and the accommodation was top notch. It’s a very tranquil place.
    もっと詳しく

  • Bagan and around

    2018年1月21日, ミャンマー ⋅ ☀️ 11 °C

    We spent two days in Bagan and have to say, liked it much better than Mandalay. We were met at the airport by our guide with an unpronounceable name, so we called him Coco. He took us to a local market - much like the one we went to yesterday, then on to three different types of temples - the brightest (all gold leaf and gold paint, the tallest and the biggest. All interesting in their own way but by now, becoming somewhat repetitive. We have learnt a lot about Buddhism though. We declined to eat in a local “tea house” for lunch and were taken back to our hotel for lunch and a rest. We were picked up at 4:00 pm and taken to two more temples before viewing the sunset from a vantage point with a view over a plain containing many, many temples! While we were waiting for the sun to set, we met a young couple who were living in Beijing - he was American and she was Chinese (had lived and studied in California for 10 years). Anyway, it turned out that he was a TV star in Beijing and had his own show singing and doing skits, all in Mandarin! Very interesting talking to them.

    On our second day we were picked up in the morning and taken to a nearby village were we witnessed a parade of young boys who were going to enter the monastery for their time as novices - a minimum of seven days. The boys were all dressed a princes, complete with fancy costumes and make up and rode horses, or if too young, rode in a carriage. A local wealthy man had organised the parade and other children from the village could participate with their parent paying a small fee. The wealthy man’s son was first in line and rode an elephant (apparently at a cost of $1,000). Most of the boys were about 7 or 8 but the youngest was only three! I asked our guide if he would have to go to the monastery to live and he said yes, but his parents would be on hand to feed him. I couldn’t imagine how a three year old could learn anything about Buddhism’s teachings and live on only two meals a day! Our guide assured us that it was fun to dress up and parade and relatives gave them money which they liked very much, but once the festivities were over, they had to get their heads shaved and go into the monastery.

    Next we visited more temples and shrines, then went on to visit an area well known for weaving beautiful silk. It was so intricate work and once we visited the shop, we could understand the exorbitant prices! Next we visited a factory that made lacquer wear. We had no idea how much work went into producing this product - very interesting, but again, all that work became obvious once we hit the shop and saw how expensive everything was! Our last visit of the morning was to go to a village that was founded in the 12th century. We were able to see how people lived. One family were weavers and we saw how they made the thread from the cotton plant. The grandma of the family (91 years old) was sitting on the floor spinning the cotton into threads. She was amazing and when she took a break, she smoked a cheroot that her daughter had just rolled for her! Apparently she smokes two cheroots everyday. She does a lot of the cooking for the family on a very primitive wood fire. Hard to believe people still live like this - there is a well in the village, but no running water, but they do have electricity - very interesting visit.

    In the afternoon we went for a ride on the Irrawaddy River on a not too comfortable open boat, but we did have comfortable cain chairs to sit in. After about half an hour, we landed - well the boat,an rammed the bow into a bank and we clambered ashore, then walked for about ten minutes through some trees to, guess what, a temple! This one was built into a cliff and tunnels had been carved out with alcoves that served as cells for the monks to meditate. Actually a very interesting visit. We sailed back having been served tea and snacks with a wonderful view of a sunset over the water.
    もっと詳しく

  • Second day in Mandalay

    2018年1月19日, ミャンマー ⋅ ⛅ 30 °C

    Today we travelled about 29 Kim’s outside of the city of Mandalay - surprisingly an area full of temples! Our first stop was at a very busy market - everything was available there, fruit, vegetables, meat, fish, clothes, cosmetics - you name it, it was there. One interesting thing was the seller of bark from the Thanaka tree. The bark is pounded to paste and then used by the ladies and children to cover their skin. Not only does it moisturise the skin, it’s also an excellent sunscreen. We did wonder why the ladies were lighter skinned than the men and this is why. Next we went to a monastery to watch the 400 monks who lived there, line up for their second and last meal of the day - it was only 11:00 am! Usually, they have to walk out into the town to ask for donations of food and then bring it back to share with everyone. Today, however a local village was their donor for the day and they had all turned out in their finery to serve the food. Some of the monks were novices and were as young as 7 years old - seems harsh life for them. Apparently all boys are required to go and live as a monk for at least a week - our guide told us he only lasted 5 days! After that we visited a nunnery that ran a school for children from kindergarten through high school. Some of the children were orphans and would live with the nuns until they completed their education and then could choose if they wanted to stay or leave, other children were from poor families who couldn’t afford to pay for their education. Amazingly they were all learning English that day, from the youngest to the oldest.

    Lunch time came and our guide took us and the driver to a “tea house”.....mmm. I can’t say we enjoyed our meal and Brian developed a touch of the Delhi Belly - the good news is that the meal for four cost only $4 and two Imodium sorted out his tummy problems.

    After lunch we had a very short boat ride to cross over to an island where we were taken to two monasteries, one made completely of teak wood and the other one (a copy) but made from brick and then on to the ruins of a palace. We were taken there in an old cart pulled by the skinniest horse I have ever seen! There were no paved roads so the cart dropped into all the potholes it could find - a very uncomfortable journey. Once back on the mainland, we were taken to an old teak bridge that had originally been built in the 1200’s - not an easy walk as many of the slats were almost worn away, there were no guardrails and some of the uprights were rotten - no health and safety here, but non of the locals seemed to mind as they strolled along. The bridge was 2 kms long - some feat of engineering for the time it was built. As it is the dry season, you really don’t have to use the bridge and people live temporarily in the riverbed growing their crops, but once the rainy season comes, the riverbed overflows.

    We were offered another sunset to watch, but declined as it was too early and hazy, so wouldn’t have been worth the wait.
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