In albergue heaven

Leaving Mondoñedo, I couldn't find the new official route-- a forest track that is 6 km shorter than the "complementary" route. So I wound up walking the first 18 km almost entirely on asphalt. The views were very nice, the temperature cool, not too much sun, so I really can't complain.

Until recently I wouldn't have had much of an answer to the question--what is your favorite tree? Since walking in the Bierzo in late spring a few years ago, I have fallen in love with chestnuts. And on today's walk there were many--not as ancient as the ones in the Bierzo where new trees grew out of enormous dead trunks, but beautiful. And when they are in bloom with those long cream colored buds, the smell is sweet and pungent. It was great.

In the first town of Abadin there is a private albergue that gets good reviews, but I had been alerted to a new Albergue in a restored old stone home about 6 km further on. I think this is probably the nicest Albergue I have ever stayed in, though Casa Carmina last week comes close.

The owners bought this several hundred year old home four years ago, gutted it, and renovated it all themselves with the help of friends. They've left as much of the original as possible, including the stone oven, some beams, slate, some huge granite vats, etc. The showers are really hot and the water pressure very high- no lukewarm drip on a dirty tile floor today! It is just beautiful, in the middle of nowhere with lots of open yard and lots of shade with reclining chairs.

Fingers crossed that the owners are successful with their labor of love, O Xistral. I will sing their praises at every opportunity!!Read more