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Ruta de la Lana, 2023

mayo - junio 2023
Una aventura de 38 días de Laurie Leer más

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  • Laurie ReynoldsRuta de la Lana, 2023
    434

    Quintanarraya to Clunia to Huerta de Rey

    6 de junio de 2023, España ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C

    Some would fault us for taking another “tourist” day, but with the Roman ruins and amphitheater at Clunia just 4 kms off route, we couldn’t resist. We had briefly considered taking a detour there on our way into last night’s destination but that would have given us a 40+ km day. My body told me when I hit 70 that I’m past my time of 40 km days. So here we are with a short day under 20 and a detour off the camino.

    Since Clunia doesn’t open till 10, and it’s only about 4 km from our albergue, there was no need to get moving early. We had been told that no bar or restaurant opens there before 10, (thanks @Bachibouzouk) , so we took our time.

    On the way in, we decided to check out possible walking routes for going from the Roman ruins to today’s destination of Huerta de Rey, which is back on the Lana. We could go back to our albergue in Quintanarraya and proceed on the Lana from there. But it seemed like there would be an easy, direct route. We asked a few farmers, and had a good track for after our visit.

    We spent two hours at the site. Watched a video and then took our time going from theater to baths to villas to the forum. Lots of good information, and I was happy to see that after many similar visits, I know the differences between frigadarium, tepidarium, and caldarium.

    The town of Huerta de Rey isn’t exactly a glorious town, but we have a good room in the Hostal del Cid and have had a good lunch in Meson de las Herrerías.    Leer más

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  • Laurie ReynoldsRuta de la Lana, 2023
    1
    141

    Huerta de Rey to Santo Domingo de Silos

    7 de junio de 2023, España ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    I have walked into Santo Domingo once before, when I walked the Camino Castellano-Aragonés (very highly recommended, btw). But this time a forum member alerted us to the fact that there is a spectacular gorge very close to the Camino that also goes into Santo Domingo. So once again, we decided to take a detour off the “true“ Camino route.

    The first 15 km had a little bit of elevation up and down through some really nice pine forests. From the village of Peñacoba, we went off Camino, following a GPS track that was supposed to take us on a trail through the woods to the starting point of the gorge. Once we got a few kilometers in, however, we realized that the track had not been properly recorded. It was essentially a couple of straight lines. So there we were, pretty high up and trying to find our way down to the trail head to go through the gorge. We had a general idea which way to go, and thankfully, Clare is much more adept at reading contour lines than I am. So after a couple of slightly hairy kilometers, we found our way down. I would not have done this by myself, or with anyone else who skills were not as great as Clare‘s. We were never in any danger, we were far from the cliffs, and the worst thing that could have happened would have been for us to have to turn around and backtrack. But thankfully we didn’t.

    The path through the gorge is pretty cool. It is all on a metal path with a railing that is attached to the rock face. We saw lots of birds of prey. Even though it’s very short, it was in my opinion worth the detour (and those adventuresome kms).

    We arrived in Santo Domingo early enough to have a lunch. It was edible and expensive. Then we visited the Romanesque cloister, which is one of Spain’s absolute best. We went to vespers in the monastery’s church at seven. The monks here are very famous for their Gregorian chants. They released a recording in the 90s, and I read that more than 2 million copies were sold in the United States. There were more than 20 of them, I’d say, ranging in age from late 30s through very ancient. The chanting was soothing and kind of mesmerizing, but I cannot imagine that they do it six times a day!    Leer más

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  • Laurie ReynoldsRuta de la Lana, 2023
    2
    1

    Sto Domingo to San Pedro to Covarrubias

    8 de junio de 2023, España ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    Another detour for us today. Instead of a straight shot 13 kms to the pretty little touristy town of Covarrubias, we decided to take a detour to visit the monastery of San Pedro de Arlanza. This monastery was built in the 10th century, with of course lots of modifications and damage. The government spent many millions and took many years to finish the renovation. It is perched on the Arlanza River and was too close and too tempting to pass up. It turned out to be 29 km with 700 m elevation, so it was a good work out.

    The route we put together with various wikiloc trails took us first to the Sad Hill cemetery. For anyone else who is interested in making that visit, I would recommend not following our trail, but simply following the town’s signs that go directly to the site on a wide road. We followed GPS tracks that I had found on Wikiloc. At some point during our ascent, followed by crawling through a hole in a barbed wire fence, and descending on a rocky path, Clare muttered, some thing like— Laurie, you and your wikiloc trails.

    For those who are uninformed about Sad Hill, like we were, this is an iconic set from the movie The Good, The Bad and The Ugly. Many fans come here to visit the site of the famous Clint Eastwood shootout scene in the cemetery. In fact, we met a British couple last night in the hotel who were planning to go there — their own pilgrimage, they called it.

    It was fun to see it, and I think we are both now inclined to see the movie someday. We learned that lots of famous people have come here and put their names on some of the 5000 crosses in the cemetery. I had read that Metallica had done it, and I was happy to find that particular cross, because it’s one of my son’s favorite groups!

    Much as we may have been messed up by Wikiloc on a couple of occasions, the rest of the day was really flawless. We had a great trek to the monastery, a wonderful visit there, and a good walk into Covarrubias, another one of the “ pueblos más bonitos de España.” It was 3:30 by the time we got to town, but today was our lucky day. I went into the restaurant in the main square, jampacked with people still eating., and the owner graciously said we could still eat!!!    Leer más

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  • Laurie ReynoldsRuta de la Lana, 2023
    112

    Covarrubias to Modujar de San Cibrian

    9 de junio de 2023, España ⋅ ⛅ 12 °C

    Here’s an unusual combination— a long day and a late start. About 34K today and 700 m, so normally I would be leaving by 7 AM. But just 9 km from here is a 7C Visigothic church that doesn’t open until 10:30. So there’s no point in leaving before 8-ish. It felt really weird to be sitting in my room with nowhere to go till such a late hour!

    On my way to the church, as I was thinking about how it was possible that I was going to see a church that is 1500 years old, I came across some dinosaur footprints from 144 MILLION years ago. My head can’t even compute that.

    The church is but a small portion of what used to be there. The decorative panels outside must be typically visigothic, because I have seen many similar carvings in other places. I love the carved panels inside and was able to be in there all alone.

    Clare and I started out at different times, but we met up somewhere after Revilla de Campos. I had been walking for hours with the sun shining on my back and ominous black clouds in front. Soon after we met up, the rain started, but it was just for a few minutes. And for the next couple of hours, though there were black clouds and thunder all around, we just had a few short bursts. Lucky again.

    We’re only about 19 kms from Burgos. The town we’re in, Mondubar de San Cibrian,, has a couple of interesting things—an old traditional chimney, and a fountain made with medieval or Roman sarcophagi, but not much going on. The mayor has taken the church keys away from the owner of the little casa rural where we’re staying, so the list of things to do has now been exhausted.    Leer más

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  • Laurie ReynoldsRuta de la Lana, 2023
    45

    Modubar de San Cibrian to Burgos

    10 de junio de 2023, España ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    A pretty uneventful walking day, much of it on a Via Verde that is on the now abandoned and once highly touted train line from Santander to the Mediterranean.

    As we got closer to Burgos, there were more and more people out for a weekend ride or walk. A fair number of people even said Buen Camino to us! We have not heard those words much at all on this Camino.

    Walking into Burgos was not a very emotional moment for me. The Ruta de la Lana ends here, but it just didn’t make much of an impact. We went to the Cathedral to get a stamp, and then checked into our respective places. First things, first, shower, and clothes washing. And then the matter of eating lunch. I remembered having a very good hamburger with Rebekah when I walked here in 2015. Sure enough, the place was still there, still serving hamburgers, And they were still pretty good.

    In the afternoon I went to the Museo de Burgos, where I had never been. Its pre-history section has been overshadowed by the museum of evolution, but I very much enjoyed the archaeological portion. One side of the tomb of Santo Domingo de Silos was on display, and it was by far my favorite piece of the museum. It looked just like one of those Limoges pieces, but apparently it was made here in Spain. Same kind of enamel and gold covered copper. Jesus and all the apostles and it was just beautiful. There were also a couple of Limoges boxes, but this was the stand out.

    After the museum visit, I climbed up to the castle, what little remains of it, and enjoyed a great view down over the city of Burgos. And then a trip to a Tienda de Chinos in order to buy some bubble wrap for the olive oil that I will be bringing home to daughter and family. Some rituals never change.

    Burgos has never been one of my favorite cities in Spain, and the cathedral is too over the top for my taste. But I have to say that it does impress in the plaza.

    Clare and I met up with a forum member and spent a couple of hours immersed in Camino talk. He is cycling the Camino Francés and writing a book about the geology along the route. It was a really fun get together.

    I’m not having any grand wrap-up thoughts or pronouncements about the meaning of life. But I have so very much enjoyed walking with Clare and Alun. I think I have decided that I don’t want to walk anymore solo Caminos. Though I love walking alone, it is much more fun to have company at night. So that’s my plan for next year!    Leer más

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  • Laurie ReynoldsRuta de la Lana, 2023

    Day in Burgos

    11 de junio de 2023, España ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    I woke up at 5:30, as usual, but today, I just turned over and found that I could easily go back to sleep. It felt very decadent to wake up at 8:30, use up the last few granules of my instant coffee, and sit in bed with nothing to pack up and lug around on my back.

    It had rained a LOT last night, but when I left the hotel around 10 am, it was cloudy but dry. I had never been to the Monasterio de las Huelgas, and Clare, being the good sport that she is, came along.

    It was extremely interesting to learn that 23 cloistered nuns still live there, more than a thousand years after the convent’s founding. They run a laundry, and sell some baked goods.

    I wish I could keep my Spanish kings straight, but the infant king Enrique I is buried in this monastery. Such intrigue—he was injured by a falling rock while playing with friends,
    and his “handlers” brought in a “doctor” to try some experimental surgery, which involved cutting a hole in his skull. He died four days later. Our guide believes it was murder.

    There was an amazing room filled with clothing from the 13th century, in extremely good condition. That was my favorite part, even more than the Romanesque cloister!

    We met Juanma for lunch, my friend who owns an albergue earlier on the Francés (shoutout for the Albergue Maralotx in Cirauqui). We went to a place serving the Burgos specialty of roast suckling lamb. And the Burgos specialty of morcilla. I have to retract all the many bad things I’ve said about morcilla over the years because this was very good (maybe because the Burgos morcilla has rice added) and the lamb —yum. Thanks for driving so far to see us, Juanma, and thanks for taking us to this very non-touristy authentic asador. It was a great way to put a punto final on my Camino 2023.

    In early evening, we had a vino tinto in the Plaza Mayor, and on my way back to the hotel I ran into the Corpus Christi processions.

    Tomorrow, late morning bus to Madrid. Then home on Wednesday.    Leer más

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