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- Dzień 55
- sobota, 20 maja 2023
- ☁️ 21 °C
- Wysokość: 446 m
NiemcyBurg Thuisbrunn49°41’18” N 11°14’51” E
Beers Worth the Walk

The back end of the trip was shaping up, with the prospect of a fabulous day out.
So today was the day we met Tony and Laura at the station with Rick Carbonara, the founder ofhttps://www.beerwanderers.com
A very affable fella: something of a nomad who had settled in Bavaria, he had a deep knowledge and fine appreciation of AllThingsBeery for the region 🍻
We hopped on a Ubahn to Nordostbahnhoff, then rose out to the beautiful sunshine to catch a regular train to Gräfenberg: literally the end of the line….& finally a bus up to Thuisbrunn, ready for the Fünf-Seidla-Steig beer hiking trail: over 8 miles of pure pleasure 😍
There we started our day with a short sharp climb up to the hill overlooking the village. Dating back to 1348, the small castle next to us was plundered many times over the centuries, but has now been in private ownership for over 60 years.
Back down the hill, we found our first quaint brewery, Gasthof Seitz. Rich secured our first pints (0.5l 😉) - three pils, two dunkels.
Very refreshing.
He also gave us all his branded wooden beer ‘lid’ - bierdeckels 👍
Stops the bugs sneaking in for a sip, very cool merch, they will get much use 😎
The brewery had suffered a recent fire, with evidence in the form of a missing roof…but the brewing continues 💪
After finally draining our glasses, we set off.
A perfect day for a hike in the forests and paths, we enjoyed a lot of banter along the way.
Brauerei-Gasthaus Hormann was next on our walk, about 30 minutes away. Here we managed to squeeze onto a table and decided to have lunch there: stuffed cabbage and a Käsespätzle: good hiking fodder!
The next leg was over an hour away at the Gasthaus Linden Brauerei, where we chatted with a couple of older fellas.
On the way we saw quite a few young people having a break from their walk with a game of Flunkyball. A simple drinking game: one plastic bottle sits between the two teams, who all have a beer to drink by them. In turn, they throw a ball (or bottle) at the target. If they hit, they get to drink until the other team have reset the bottle and got the ball back to their side.
Our fourth brewery was just around the corner at Friedmanns Brästüberl. More shade under an umbrella, the day was turning quite warm 🌞
Interesting car spot when a Porsche Speedster rumbled past us.
A final mile and a half took us up a hill to a big mast and then back down to Klosterbrauerei Weißenohe: a monastery, & monks always know a thing or two about brewing 💪
Rich’s favourite place to finish the walk, a lovely beer garden with plenty of shade.
A final stroll down the hill to catch the train back, we bade a final farewell to our leader as he headed off back to Munich.
Since the munchies had struck, we stopped for a final cheeky Pho. Sorry to report I was the only one able to face one final ale….
At last, we wearily called it a day.
A GREAT day!! Czytaj więcej
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- Dzień 56
- niedziela, 21 maja 2023
- ☁️ 26 °C
- Wysokość: 344 m
NiemcyNuremberg Castle49°27’30” N 11°4’34” E
Nuremberg, Nürnberg, Nuernberg…

Today was a day to enjoy the full hangover and relax.
But….there is always so much to do….we had rashly agreed to meet Tony and Laura at their hotel for 9am, with plans for a busy day: Nürnberg (whichever spelling you prefer!) has a lot to offer 👍
So with a slightly dull head, we set off: it was going to be an even hotter day. There was a slumped statue near a small church that I could associate with 🤪
First up was a video chat with our mutual pal, Julian. I’ve know Julian for over 25 years: a legend in our time at Netapp, he had emigrated to Auckland with his wife around 8 years ago. It was good to have a quick chat with them both.
We went hunting a brunch, and when we realised there was a Cafe Auckland in the city, we had to eat there: very nice healthy food!
Refreshed, we headed up the hill to the impressive castle. Dating back over 1,000 years, it is one of Europe's most formidable medieval fortifications, and represented the power and importance of the Holy Roman Empire and the outstanding role of the Imperial City of Nuremberg.
Of course a massive amount of damage was wrought on it during WWII, which the Germans frequently remind people that they started….so much has been rebuilt, over many decades following the war.
A very grand edifice, it was well worth the €7 entry fee. The 49m deep well is an interesting part of the tour, with the demonstration and stories told by the entertaining member of staff.
From there, we went to visit the Art Bunker. A cool spot for an hour, the stories of how much of the cities most valuable pieces were protected there, with climate controlled spaces. Some larger pieces above ground, such as the Schöner Brunnen fountain, were covered in sand and then had protective concrete set around them.
Of course, if those art historians had managed to stop the madman from taking charge and invading places, none of it would matter….
. Lessons modern day Russia has failed to heed 🙄
A cheeky beer and cheesy snack before we spotted people looking out of windows across from the square, so we walked over to take a look. The Pilatushaus is a grand building that survived the war, but had fallen into disrepair.
We had a good stab at walking around the walls, but there were only short stretches available, so we headed back into the centre. Time was marching, and many restaurants closed on Sunday. We spotted a fella fishing with some success: he landed a third big fish as we watched. Eventually we found the rather nice Trödelstuben on a small island on the Pegnitz and settled in for dinner and a beer or two 🍻
Our weekend was coming to an end, so we had one final wander to the east, past a beach bar, before finally saying farewell and bon voyage….our holidays would both continue, but ours only for a few more days…. Czytaj więcej
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- Dzień 57
- poniedziałek, 22 maja 2023
- ⛅ 23 °C
- Wysokość: 148 m
NiemcyBahnhof Wuppertal-Elberfeld51°15’20” N 7°8’49” E
An Elephant named Tuffi

We had one last stop before reaching our final stay in Amsterdam.
Originally we had randomly picked a small but nice sounding town named Limburg an der Lahn. It looked like it had some nice scenery & a beautiful cathedral.
Then I remembered a spectacular train I had read about….
The oldest electric elevated railway with hanging cars in the world - the Wuppertal Schwebebahn - and it would dovetail in with our return beautifully 😎
So…one hotel cancelled and another booked.
As we arrived into the city, we could see the spiders legs of the suspension engineering. Like something out of an early science fiction film!
The train design was originally offered to Berlin, Munich and Breslau (now Wrocław) who all turned it down.
Built between 1897 and 1903, with Kaiser Wilhelm having a ride in the first section before it opened in 1901, the train mostly travels 12m above the River Wupper after which the town is named.
It is an astonishing feat of engineering, and still carries around 80,000 people every single day. The entire line takes under 30 minutes to travel, including the 20 station stops.
Buying the ticket was an infuriating challenge… stabbing the UK flag on the machine only changed a few of the words: you need the 24-StundenTicket to be able to travel for 24 hours: about €11 for two 👍
There have been a couple of notable incidents on the train.
On 21st July 1950, a circus were doing a publicity stunt with a baby elephant. The creature got spooked by the swaying and broke through the carriage to crash 12m into the river below 😱
Fortunately the elephant, two journalists, and one passenger sustained only minor injuries. I have no idea how the poor thing survived: the river today does not look deep.
After that jump, the elephant got the name Tuffi, meaning 'waterdive' in Italian…and lived for another 40 years 👍
The line suffered it’s first and only fatal incident on 12th April 1999. Some engineering workers left a temporary metal claw on the track, which caused the train to derail, falling 10m to the river below, killing 5 and injuring many others 😔
The trains were replaced in 2019, although frankly we felt the blue colour rather clashed with the old green supports: orange would have worked better!
We spent a happy couple of hours riding the beauty, hopping off a few times, snapping away….an older German lady pointed out that there is a Tuffi sculpture between two stations in the river, so we had to head back to catch that. Another older gentleman enthusiastically told us something in German: when we shook our heads and explained we were English, he resolutely continued to point and speak German. No idea what he was talking about 🤣
At the end of the line; the trains do a very tight U-turn to head back. Fascinating to watch!
I think even Christine secretly turned into a little bit of a train buff on this 😉
After all that excitement, the town itself is extraordinarily uninspiring. When we checked in, the young man almost seemed a bit surprised we were there for pleasure and not business….but did reach for his drawer to share a foldaway map of the line for us.
Primark does have a quite spectacular building just outside the main station, and Bauer have some huge factory buildings along the eastern side of the line…..but otherwise, the main centre was bereft of much more than a couple of quirky statues…the one of the man, Zuckerfritz, resting by his barrow after a hard days work is a nice reminder that not all monuments need to be of famous personalities!
Dinner was a too large but healthy looking poke bowl served up by a bored looking young man at MALOA. His shirt told us “don’t worry, you can add avocado later”, which was laden heavy with irony: as he was making mine, he ask if I would like anything in place of the avocado, which had run out 🤣 Czytaj więcej
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- Dzień 58
- wtorek, 23 maja 2023 12:08
- ☁️ 13 °C
- Wysokość: 161 m
NiemcyBarmen51°16’7” N 7°11’51” E
More Tuffi, Engels and on to a Boat

A late train and indeed checkout give us time to take a last ride on the Schwebebahn to the Alter Markt so we could hunt down the Bronze Tuffi…..although we only shoot animals with camera phones 🤪
We also sought out the slightly covered up elephant painting near the spot where poor Tuffi took a dive…the artwork was rather childlike, if I’m honest 🤷♂️
Nearby, we found the lovely house Friedrich Engels grew up in. Co-author of The Communist Manifesto with Karl Marx, it feels like he led the life of quite the champagne Socialist, with a personal motto of “take it easy" 🤣
Curiously, we discovered that the amazing Giles Brandreth was also born in the City….can’t believe there are no jumper monuments in his name 🤣
We then had our only real train confusion of the entire journey….two trains claimed to leave the station for Mönchengladbach at exactly the same time: one on platform 1, the other on 5. My logic was to make a last minute change and get the one with the least stops: we certainly left the station first 🤷♂️
An easy change, and a cheeky free film “Whiplash” for the longer leg to Amsterdam. Great film well acted, provided you suspend belief about how likely the story line would be 🎬
The next journey was across the wide canal from the Centraal station to NDSM on one of the many free ferries that ply the waters here.
We originally looked to stay at the BOTEL, ideally in one of the room funnels, but they were all booked up, so we found a houseboat nearby instead.
Turned out to be very nice, with a private balcony to have a cuppa or a beer 🍻
After a rest and some planning, we had a stroll out to check the local area, and found a small dinner and beers at Cannibale Royale 👍 Czytaj więcej
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- Dzień 59
- środa, 24 maja 2023 18:17
- ☁️ 16 °C
- Wysokość: Poziom morza
HolandiaZaansche Schans52°28’23” N 4°48’60” E
Windmills On My Mind

Our last full day dawned after a very quiet night on our funky houseboat.
We decided to forego the mayhem of the city, and instead hopped on a 391 bus to Zaanse Schans to stare at windmills in awe.
The driver showed skills worthy of F1 in his cornering technique, and we arrived to see the sails spinning in the distance.
I had visited back in 2010 as part of a Scout Camp, but it was a little less stressful having only Christine to look after, instead of 20 excitable youngsters 🤣
We watched a man make a clog in abut 5 minutes, then saw a fake cow being milked before having some samples, including the appealing beer cheese👍
A stroll along the bank of the Zaans was peppered with photo opportunities of several working mills, most of which appeared to be thatched.
Between the 18th and 19th centuries, around 600 windmills were built on the banks of the River Zaan to power the regions industry. In this area, 11 can be seen, some dating back to the 1500s. 2 are on their original site, the rest moved between 1961 and 1974 to preserve the history.
Next, we spotted a small boat ferrying people across. Stepping aboard, it felt like it was run by a pair of enthusiastic pensioner volunteers…which it was, with Cap’n Birdseye at the helm!
The lady claimed it was her first day, and they gave each person an A4 sheet outlining some history of the properties we would see: very cute!
On the other side, we strolled about admiring the old houses, then found ourselves outside the very well kept Brouwerij Hoop - a microbrewery.
The perfect spot for lunch and a beer. The drinks were lovely….the food….well, let’s say the chef perhaps had a slow timer: slightly overdone 😳
From there we headed back to town by train, and a slightly dangerous walk along a well used cycle path….my navigational skills finally letting me down a shade😱
Amsterdam is a nice place to wander:
watching the queues at the Van Wonderen Stroopwafel shop (serving since 1907);
Marvelling at the sheer number of cycles (and total lack of scooters) - it is incredible we failed to witness a single crash, the criss-crossing of cycle/car/pedestrian lanes at junctions is crazy;
Admiring the number of ‘herbal’ stores 🤪
Also astonishing how much the older buildings are leaning off from vertical 👀
We headed uptown to the museum quarter. Nice to hear some good quality buskers: violins, accordion, sax, clarinet….but it felt like they all played the same tunes. Does Amsterdam have a buskers charter, with weekly playlists? “Hallelujah” was todays favourite, heard at least three times🤷♂️
On the museum front, it turned out we should have booked Van Gogh about 2 weeks earlier to get in. Then we remembered we had seen it all at the Van Gogh Experience in Leicester during lockdown, and instead made for the rather more contemporary Stedelijk Museum: the very place I visited back on my 1987 Interrail experience!
Inside we started with the General Idea section downstairs. A trio of men who spent 25 years together in all possible senses of the word, with two sadly dying of aids in 1994. Interesting art…
We also discovered a few works by the likes of Degas, Picasso, Monet, Van Gogh, Chagall, as well as one Jackson Pollack and some Andy Warhol.
Charlotte Perriand featured heavily in the furniture section, but we knew her better for designing the very stylish Les Arcs Aiguile Grive apartments we were so familiar with.
Overall, a couple of hours at a varied and enjoyable museum, although sadly the cafe was closed when we were gasping for a drink 😔
Afterwards, we headed past the impressive Rijksmuseum and sought refreshment in the sun at Cafe Hans en Grietje. Amazing how invigorating the power of a cuppa can be!
A stroll back past the Cuddle Pub, & on for a look at the Sea Palace, a favourite work haunt to take customers in years gone by.
With time marching, we went back through the station to pick up a light salad dinner & catch the 8:15 F4 ferry back across to our home side.
A nice day out, with the distinction of being the second most steps walked on any day… Czytaj więcej
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- Dzień 60
- czwartek, 25 maja 2023
- ⛅ 18 °C
- Wysokość: 92 m
AngliaGlenfield52°38’34” N 1°12’9” W
It’s A Wrap 🎬

What a fabulous adventure 😎
For our final day, we relaxed on the houseboat. We were lucky to be able to have a late checkout, and only had to be at the Eurostar early afternoon.
Eventually we set off for our final F4 boat trip across the water to Amsterdam Centraal. A bright and breezy way to close things off.
A snack and cuppa in the station before getting through security to await our final Eurostar. For the final time, I was pleased to once again became The Man In Seat 61 😎👍
A comfortable journey back to London, with a light meal and a couple of mini bottles of wine each to start the memories blurring!
In St Pancras, arguably the most beautiful station of our trip, we took a few final snaps. The plan was to celebrate with a last drink at the longest champagne bar in Europe….but after the wine earlier, we chose instead to take the first train back to Leicester. Some complimentary First Class snacks just to squeeze more out of our tickets before we arrived, where our beautiful daughter picked us up 😎
Over 10,000km, 14 countries, almost 6 days on trains and no blisters, despite around 13k steps as a daily average (800,000 steps overall 😱)
Beers, food, fun and laughter shared with a few friends along the way.
A very memorable adventure!
What next…… Czytaj więcej