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Portugal & Spain
  • Scott Clare
  • Debbie Kimber
  • Scott Clare
  • Debbie Kimber

Portugal & Spain

Camino Portuguese Coastal and touring もっと詳しく
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  • 旅行の開始
    2024年9月26日
    Portugal & Spain
    1First night in Porto
    1Birds Apartment, Trinidad's

    Porto Day 1

    2024年9月26日〜29日, ポルトガル ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    So we started our European adventure beginning with a flight from Manchester to Porto on Ryanair. Lots of fake tanned, loud 40ish British gals and loud English lads on trips away from Manchester but they don’t seem to have come to Porto. Jumped on the Metro to get to our apartment at Trindade but unfortunately my e-SIM didn’t load properly so trying to find our digs at night was a little tricky. We gave up and asked someone to locate it for us and it was right behind us. We were looking for an apartment name but there was only a street number. Nice little place in a great location. Headed out for a feed and found a place just down the road. We sat at the bar for a beer and food whilst practicing our Portuguese. Don’t know how that is going to go but a good start to Portugal.もっと詳しく

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  • Portugal & Spain
    Pingo Doce breakfast
    Pingo Doce breakfastAnyone for sardines?Pastry shops on every street!Street on walk to Porto E-bike tourChapel of Souls church tiled facadeReady to set off on our Porto E-bike tourMiguel imparting some interesting info.Ponte Luis 1 bridge lower deck3Porto E-bike tourView looking up the Rio Douro from Gaia side of river1Our bike tour group having a well earned coffee and tart1Scott lining up outside Porto Cathedral to get Camino PassportPortoPortoWalking across the top deck of the Ponte Luis 1 bridge1Porto1Lunch in Gaia1View from Gardens de Cristal

    Porto Day 2

    2024年9月27日, ポルトガル ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

    Woke up but thought we were still in Scotland as a light drizzle was happening. No tea or coffee in the apartment so searched for a supermarket first thing to get some supplies and then think about breakfast but we got two for one at Pingo Doce supermarket getting supplies and doing a stand up breakfast with coffee, chicken and salad roll and the obligatory Portuguese tart. After taking our supplies home we headed down to the meeting point for our three hour E-bike ride around Porto with Miguel, our guide. The sky had cleared and we had a great time getting the lay of the land on the bikes. Dropping the bikes off we walked across Ponte Luis 1 bridge to Gaia, the other side of the Douro to Porto where the port cellars are. Had lunch off the main riverfront strip in a tapas bar, then crossed back over to wander around the beautiful (if hilly) city of Porto with life oozing out of it around every corner. Picked up our Camino passport at Porto Cathedral and hoofed it home, with me stopping off for a cerveza or two to write the blog and Debbie heading back to the apartment for a rest.もっと詳しく

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  • Portugal & Spain
    Sao Bento Station
    Sao Bento StationOn our bus rideBeach walk to MatoshinosBeach walk to MatoshinosFort Xavier2Beach walk to MatoshinosSix Bridges boat trip - Ponte Luiz 1Six Bridges boat trip2Portuguese Sardine World1Debbie was in her elementPortuguese Sardines everywhere.Port shop with organ and singer!!!!Burmester Port CellarsBurmester Port Cellars2Burmester Port CellarsPorto at nightPorto at nightPorto at night1Take away dinner from our local

    Porto Day 3

    2024年9月28日, ポルトガル ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    First up on our list today was to pick up a 24hr transport card that covers trains, metro and buses for €7.5. After getting our card we caught the metro to Sao Bento to look at the railway station there. It has murals inside using twenty thousand tiles depicting important moments in Portugal’s history. After some breakfast we caught the 500 bus which takes you from Sao Bento out to the coast and then to Matoshinos, around a 12 km trip. We jumped off about 3km before Matoshinos and walked along the great beach path for the last section, passing some very crowded breaks with surfers of all skill levels. Lots of steamers and booties being worn, even if the day was pretty warm. Once we got to Matoshinos we found heaps of seafood restaurants as it is the seafood market location, sitting down and having a feed of sardines and sea bass. Delicious. Caught the metro back into Porto and then over to Gaia for a pre-booked 6 bridge tour by boat. Nice to have a look from the water at both sides of Porto. Had an hour to kill before our next activity so walked the waterfront of Gaia and found this bizarre but amazing display/shop featuring sardines. Thousands of canned sardines, you could even buy cans with your birth year on it! Then it was off to Burmester port house for a tour and tasting. Debbie looked like a pro, swirling the glass and sniffing the wine. Being Saturday night, Porto was extra lively so we just enjoyed the walk home and our last night in Porto.もっと詳しく

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  • Portugal & Spain
    Campanha Train Station
    Vila Praia de AncoraVila Praia de AncoraVila Praia de AncoraVila Praia de AncoraVila Praia de AncoraVila Praia de AncoraVila Praia de AncoraVila Praia de AncoraVila Praia de AncoraHope Meira, Vila Praia de Ancora

    Vila Praia de Ancora (Hotel Meira)

    2024年9月29日, ポルトガル ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    Bit of a travel day today so we didn’t race to get going. Headed down town for a bit of breakfast then back to repack and check out. Caught the metro to Campanha to connect with our train to take us to Vila Praia de Ancora, the starting point tomorrow for our Portuguese Camino pilgrimage. Like all devout pilgrims we opted for a first class train carriage. Will start the sacrifice tomorrow. It was only a 1 ½ hour trip so we checked in at Hotel Meira and had a bit of a wander around this seaside town and had a late lunch. Being Sunday it was fairly quiet. After a bit of a siesta and some last minute study of our walk tomorrow we headed out for a bite before hitting the trail tomorrow.もっと詳しく

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  • Portugal & Spain
    First step on the Camino
    The yellow markers that can't be missedFortress LagarteiraMisty mountain in background is SpainPath to MoledoPine forest walk to CaminhaEntering CaminhaEntering CaminhaCaminha Square coffeeCaminha SquareClock Tower, CaminhaChurch of Misericordia, CaminhaChurch of Misericordia, Caminha1Boat between Portugal & SpainWrong turn but found this, a traditional washing placeThe real thingHam hocksMonument to fishermenA Guarda harbourOur walk including wrong turn

    A Guarda 18.1km (Hotel Vila da Guarda)

    2024年9月30日, スペイン ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    Day 1 of our Portuguese Coastal Camino saw us set out with a spring in our step. We headed north from Vila Praia de Ancora bound for A Guarda in Spain, a distance that the guide books state is around 13km. There was a heavy sea mist present but the temperature was great for walking. Keeping the ocean to our left we were on a path that passed rocky beaches and what looked like unused small paddocks for a few kilometres, till we entered the town of Moledo, with a few surf shops and bars. Heading out of town we walked through pine forests till we came to the River Minho, the border between Portugal and Spain. Following the river east we came to the town of Caminha, a nice town with a pretty square where we stopped for a coffee. Headed to the water to pick up our boat across the river to A Pasaxe in Spain, a five minute journey for around €6/head. Not much on this side of the river for lunch so continued our Camino Pilgrimage (I’m calling it a walk from now on). Apparently the walk is very well signposted in Spain with yellow arrows regularly showing the direction, however you miss one arrow… (as the goat joke goes) and it can lead to an extra four kilometer walk over a hill half the height of Everest instead of around it. Eventually we got to A Guarda and checked into our hotel. Not having had lunch we were keen to eat but everything is closed from 3pm to 7pm so we satisfied ourselves with avacado dip and a packet of biscuits. An interesting day with the take out being keep a watch out for yellow arrows.もっと詳しく

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  • Portugal & Spain
    Typical Spanish Camino marker
    Square in A GuardaWalk out of A GuardaWinding pathwaysSt James, Patron of CaminoDisused lobster breeding pool9km stopCamino to OiaErmita de San SebastiánEntering OiaBackyard crypts (we think)Massive Cathedral in OiaLunch at OiaPace quickened on the last stretch homeAn umbrella is a great fashion accessoryA well earned beerTodays journey

    Oia 18.2km (Hotel Glasgow)

    2024年10月1日, スペイン ⋅ 🌫 19 °C

    Breakfast was spent scanning various weather forecasts with the consensus being some rain with a chance of clearing around midday, so off we set in the drizzle with our wet gear on. Following the Camino trail through A Guarda town we found ourselves walking along a coastal path with a rocky shoreline to our left. The drizzle continued off and on till we got to a cool little cafe at Portocelos, where we dried out for a while. Onward we trooped over cobbles, paths, gravel, pine needles, tiles and sand. We didn’t come across any villages until Oia where we had a full lunch, thinking that we may not find anything at the end. So with a full belly and a couple of glasses of wine on board we hit the path for our final four kilometres of today’s walk, checking into the Hotel Glasgow with tired feet but happy to see a spa bath in our room that will get used tonight.もっと詳しく

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  • Portugal & Spain
    1Camino waymarker
    Painted stone at waymarkerPainted stone at waymarker1Bad hair dayQuasimodo mastering trekking poles1A beard off and I lostOld stone path. Up the mountain we go!1Old stone pathOld stone pathApparently the view is to die forSlightly clearing weatherWater fountain entering BaionaBaiona before siestaSanta Liberata ChurchSanta Liberata ChurchSanta Liberata Church doorTodays journey

    Baiona 14.4km (Hotel El Mosquito)

    2024年10月2日, スペイン ⋅ 🌫 18 °C

    As forecast the weather when the sun rose (around 8.30 !!) was pretty ordinary so it was full wet weather gear of pants and ponchos (for some). Didn’t take long for the rain to start with wind so umbrellas were out of the question. We had long periods of more mist than rain so it was difficult to see how nice the Galician coastline was. We passed through a few small villages walking on paths and tracks. First respite from the rain was a cafe behind a very quiet caravan park which was very welcome. Leaving the cafe we crossed the road to begin climbing up a stone path that circles around the side of a mountain, bringing you into the outer area of Baiona. This part of the walk was a highlight regardless of the rain. The track had gotten pretty wet by this stage but the wet weather gear was doing its job. The walk down into Baiona from high through twisting narrow streets was great. Arrived at el Mosquito ( bit worried about that name) just as our bags were dropped off, including some items left behind in A Guarda so we had a quick shower and headed out for some tapas before everything shut for siesta. Forecast is better tomorrow but honestly the rain didn’t hinder the walk at all, other than the views. Que así sea.もっと詳しく

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  • Portugal & Spain
    Baiona fortress
    1This tile on the front of a house says 'A pilgrim lives here'Monument on way out of BaionaBackstreets of BaionaStatue of St Thelmo standing above three tortured souls!!!An amazing cemetery we stumbled acrossOn the tarmacOn the forest trackOn the stone pathOn the big stone pathRock hoppingStreet art in Vigo2Our journey. 25.1km but really 28.4

    Vigo 28.4km (Hotel Compostela)

    2024年10月3日, スペイン ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    Phew…. We knew we had a big day ahead of us so we tried to head off early but with a combination of sunrise at 8.20 and breakfast starting at 8.00 we headed off around 9. Baiona, this morning, looked a picture without any rain. So under fine skies we followed the Camino route through the back streets of Baiona then into the countryside where we meandered through villages. We crossed a bridge with a shrine in the middle which has an interesting legend attached to it! Then on to our first coffee stop at Ramallosa. Not long after our stop we were walking through forests with quite a few climbs involved. After more winding around village streets and paddocks we stopped for lunch at our halfway point in Priegue for a beautiful calzone with beer and coffee. Putting our shoes back on we headed off for the second half of our day. We climbed up again through winding streets and then through a eucalyptus forest with stone paths and gravel slopes. We eventually hit the outskirts of Vigo which is a fairly large Spanish town, getting increasingly leg weary. Stopped for an ice cream around 3km from our destination but unfortunately I forgot to restart our route tracker hence the distance difference. Anyway, writing this sitting outside a cafe with a red wine and a coffee for Debbie thankful that we put a rest day in tomorrow by booking two nights in Vigo.もっと詳しく

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  • Portugal & Spain
    Central Vigo
    Vigo harbour1A true pilgrimEscalators all the way to the top of VigoFor guess who? ❤️

    Vigo rest day

    2024年10月4日, スペイン ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    Our rest day after the long leg yesterday and the plans were minimal. We probably stayed in a 500 metre radius checking out the harbour, walking around the old town and having some leisurely meals. Just what the doctor ordered.もっと詳しく

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  • Portugal & Spain
    Street art leaving Vigo
    Man at fish market after Debbie chatted him.2Forest trail artRegardless of weather it was a beautiful section to walkGear for the conditionsOn the trailStaying up high looking over Ria de VigoFellow pilgrimLunch at Redondela1km outFinal leg to hotelTodays journey missing a section

    Arcade 27.4km (Hotel Duarte)

    2024年10月5日, スペイン ⋅ 🌧 20 °C

    With rested legs we set off from Vigo, which we loved, with wet weather gear on board after scanning the weather forecasts. We started climbing virtually straight out of our hotel through the main shopping district and up through residential areas to a level of around 200metres. On the way we checked out a fish market, where the produce looked so good, and had a couple of wardrobe changes and decided on ponchos for the day. Once we got to the top of the climb it was very flat, skirting around the side of the large hill for around 5km till we finally found a cafe where we caught up with an Aussie couple from Adelaide who we had walked with earlier. A further 5km of flat forest trail and we started dropping down suddenly into Redondela, where we stopped for lunch at a Spanish Irish pub. Food was good and we got out of our wet shoes for a while. Finally found the Camino Trail again and we had around another 7km of walking ahead and the rain wouldn’t leave us alone. Fellow pilgrims were in good spirits and the weather bought out lots of camaraderie. Checked into hotel and started the drying process, ponchos hung and newspaper in shoes ready to go again tomorrow.もっと詳しく

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  • Portugal & Spain
    Leaving Arcade at first light
    Shrine in front gardenLeaving ArcadeLeaving ArcadeOn the forest trail2Trail side shoppingOur contribution to a fence of crossesOne of the many Camino shrinesScott listening to the national anthem before NRL grand finalThe church of the virgin pilgrimPontevedra's patron saint, the virgin pilgrimThe church of the virgin pilgrim, scallop shell is the symbol of CaminoDelicatessen in PontevedraBascilica of Saint Mary MajorInterior of St Mary Major was small but incredibly beautifulAfternoon stroll. No vehicles allowed in old town of PontevedraPontevedra at nightTodays journey

    Pontevedra 12.7km (Hotel Avenida)

    2024年10月6日, スペイン ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    Even though today’s route was one of the shorter ones we decided to get away early as the forecast was for a better morning. We headed out of Arcade with the sun coming up at the crazy time of 8.15. A lovely walk through the old town and over the old bridge, climbing through the outlying villages till we hit forest paths. The paths were really nice to walk on and the weather was holding. Our only stops on the walk was to get a couple of stamps for our Camino passport and do a little trail side shopping with a guy doing leather products and Camino souvenirs. We were pushing on as we didn’t want to get wet again and the walking was easy. Had the NRL grand final radio coverage on ABC going as we walked. Arrived in Pontevedra around 11.30 and could get into our room but the bags hadn’t arrived so we had a shower and got some lunch before siesta time. We explored Pontevedra later in the arvo, a really beautiful little town with lots of squares and no vehicles. After dinner we were able to see Pontevedra at night which was nice. Another big day coming up tomorrow.もっと詳しく

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  • Portugal & Spain
    Says it all
    No one listens anywayMore pilgrims joining the CaminoBlazing new trailsCarvings on the trailCarvings on the trailCarvings on the trailNo one said you could get a trainUnder the vinesMilestone marker under 50km1Sunshine smilesLunch stopLunchtime offeringsEntering Caldas de RaisOur journey today

    Caldas de Reis 24.1km (Hotel Cruceiro)

    2024年10月7日, スペイン ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    The subject of conversation at the breakfast table amongst the pilgrims was a) what does your forecast say? and b) how wet are we going to get? We had a plan to get away early and make a start before the rain and that worked for about 50m till our trusty ponchos were donned. So for the next two hours we walked through the suburbs and ever increasing waterlogged trails. We were so dogged in our travels that we missed the first and only cafe which is very unlike us. So it wasn’t until 17km into our mission that we sat down for some lunch, with the sun having burst through the clouds. Shoes came off as we ate some home cooked chicken empinadas and coffee. The remainder of the walk was enjoyed in t-shirts with us passing a milestone marker of less than 50km to Santiago de Compostela, two days walking after today. There seemed to be more pilgrims on the Camino, possibly having been on the Portuguese Central route and now joined to our Coastal route. Passing another cafe proved too hard so in we went for a beer and an ice cream. The last couple of kilometers into Caldas de Rais we spent talking to a young English couple who have lived in Porto for seven years. Checked into our hotel with only our shoes needing a little drying. 🙏もっと詳しく

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  • Portugal & Spain
    Pre dawn in Caldas de Rais
    Pre dawn in Caldas de RaisMorning crowd at first cafeEating our pilfered hotel breakfastOn the forest trailOn the forest trailPadronAlways provided a snack with a drinkHurricane KirkKirk on its wayTodays journey

    Padron 21.5 km (Hotel Rosalia)

    2024年10月8日, スペイン ⋅ 🌧 18 °C

    Hallelujah. Here we were thinking that the patron saint of Spain and the Camino, St James, was wreaking vengeance on us for our ungodly past, washing away our sins by dousing us with bucketloads of rain. The truth of the matter is we are on the edge of Hurricane Kirk. And the good news is we can continue to be ungodly!! We set off around 7.45am and had an hour before the sun was up so walked through the outskirts of Caldas de Rais under phone torchlight. The first spots of rain and it was back to the ponchos as we went from small back streets to forest paths. Leaving early had the advantage of getting to the first cafe and toilet stop before the crowd that descended on it about fifteen minutes later. Back on the trail and more forest paths alongside a river made for easy walking other than getting a bit muddy. We had another stop before we got into Padron where we had lunch. Settled in for a while there before we get the enthusiasm to don the packs again and find our hotel. Unfortunately this hotel is about 800m from the centre and it is lashing down so we won’t be going too far tonight. Forecast for tomorrow is very ordinary especially before lunch thanks to Hurricane Kirk. The train station directly opposite the hotel is definitely looking like a plan B with a 20 minute train ride as opposed to a 25km walk in a hurricane. Sounds dramatic but will see what tomorrow brings🙏🤞もっと詳しく

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  • Portugal & Spain
    1Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela
    View from our room around 9amOn our last stageStone path to stone riverUnder 10km to goTypical forest trailHigh wind damageAround the cathedralSantiago de CompostelaAll nations on the CaminoSantiago de CompostelaThe cathedralJust like kindy 🤭Todays journey

    Santiago de Compostela- 26.4km

    2024年10月9日, スペイン ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    And so plan B turned into plan C which involved getting our bag downstairs ready to be transported to Santiago de Compostela, having breakfast and then back to the room to watch the 2022 version of Batman on a previous occupant’s Netflix account. We were a bit sleep deprived as we were on the top floor and the large hotel sign on the roof above us was shaking and rattling all night. The morning was a shocker with rain going sideways and big gusts of wind. The forecast was for improvement around lunchtime so we were going to get a taxi to the next town on the Camino, about 7 kilometers, and start walking from there but no cabs available so it was ponchos on and a walk of a kilometer to the bus stop. An hour later and we were on our way, getting off the bus at Picarana. The weather was definitely improving and we walked the 18 kilometers into Santiago along forest trails and streets without any significant rain and a light wind. There was lots of evidence however of the strong winds with us clambering through and around fallen trees, Quite surprised how big Santiago de Compostela is, which means plenty to see with our day here tomorrow. We arrived at the destination of the Camino, the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela, with a feeling of satisfaction of completing our walk in not ideal conditions but really enjoying the friendship of the pilgrims on the Camino. We headed straight down and got our certificate of completion, in Latin and with our Latin names. Unfortunately Scott translates to Scotum which is a bit too close to Scrotum for my liking. So after nine days of walking and 185km it’s time to say “Buen Camino.”もっと詳しく

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  • Portugal & Spain
    Heading to Pilgrims Mass
    Dual Pilgrim certificateThis is behind and above the alter. It blew us away when we saw it.A close up of the previous pictureCathedral viewed from upper level2Roof walkLiterally a roof walk1Looking down on our hotel. Entrance to the left of van.Main square in front of the cathedral2Lunch and a bevyLunch and an aquaCatholic wealth on displayAlter of relics in museumA beautiful tapestry which was hugePossibly an early acupuncture treatmentA beautifully ornate mobile shrineWaited 1 hour for this shot of the Tomb of St JamesSurf and turf on displayOur hotel room was like a monk's room

    Santiago de Compostela (San Martin Hotel

    2024年10月10日, スペイン ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

    After reflecting on our journey overnight it was back on the tourist trail this morning starting with the 7.30am Pilgrim’s mass in the Cathedral Santiago de Compostela. The service was in Spanish and I couldn’t understand a thing so nothing has changed there. I somehow nearly volunteered to do a reading up front till Debbie explained what raising my hand could lead to. So after that close shave we caught up with Paul and Lissa, a couple from Adelaide that we have spent some time with, for a coffee. We then headed to the tourist office where Debbie proudly received her certificate as a Dual Pilgrim, having completed the Portuguese Camino yesterday and the Kumano Kodo walk in Japan in April. Enjoyed a nice sunny spot for lunch and a beer before we went on a tour, climbing up to the towers and onto the stone roof of the Cathedral Santiago de Compostela and viewing the Portico of Glory. The tour was supposed to be in Spanish but as there were only two Spanish and around a dozen Anglos the guide threw some English in. Up on the roof was a lot of fun with some great views. Further wandering of the back lanes shopping and people watching we made plans to see the tomb of St James inside the cathedral which we hadn’t seen as yet. We lined up for around an hour to finally reach the entrance to the underground passage. 45 seconds later snapping one quick photo on the way and we were above ground, not too sure what we had seen. Anyway, after laughing our heads off in the solemnity of the cathedral we said goodbye to St James and wined and dined.もっと詳しく

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  • Portugal & Spain
    Our unusual apartment for the night. Everything was very hi-tech and it felt distopian.
    A very modern apartment buildingApartment landscaping.Francesinha1Ready to tuck into the Francesinha

    Day of disasters

    2024年10月11日, ポルトガル ⋅ 🌬 21 °C

    Debbie and I talked about ending the blog as we thought the remainder of the trip is not something that was of great interest to anyone. We were going to do a private blog just for our memories but a few people have said keep it rolling so we will. If it is boring just tune out😉
    The day started well with our taxi picking us up to take us to the bus station for our 9.30 bus to Caminha in Porto. Things started going a bit pear shaped when I checked the rental car booking and saw I had the booking from the 10/10/24 instead of 11/10/24. I attempted to contact SixT through their website advising them that we were still on our way. Anyway, we continued and next issue was we wanted to get off bus at the airport rather than Caminha but the driver wouldn’t let us get our luggage out of the other side of the bus so we unhappily had to continue onto Caminha. Found the metro and travelled to Ramalde to pick up the car. When we got to sixT we were told that as it was 24 hours past our pre-booked time our reservation was cancelled. He had no record of us contacting them and it was going to be around 300€ more than original price. So I hunted down another rental company and pick up a car tomorrow for 12 days for €188. Only thing is that we need to return it to Porto not Lisbon as original plan. To be worked out later. We let our booking in Lamego know we wouldn’t be there tonight and got a place near where we pick car up tomorrow. So fingers crossed we are back on track tomorrow. Wanted somewhere close for dinner and in this run down back street we found a restaurant that opened at 6pm and were surprised it looked half decent. Ordered a francesinha, a sandwich with layers of toasted bread and meats with sliced cheese on the top being melted by a near boiling sauce of tomato sauce and beer. People were still coming in for dinner at 9pm and every order was for a francesinha. Had my one and that will do. A harrowing day but the positives were; a nice apartment, good food and a much cheaper car.    もっと詳しく

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  • Portugal & Spain
    Breakfast before heading to pick up our car
    It all started with a sandy beachRiver walkRiver walkRiver walkDouro RiverDouro RiverDouro RiverPinhao1Afternoon walk up to the castle in LamegoAfternoon walk up to the castle in LamegoInterior courtyard of our apartment

    Lamego

    2024年10月12日, ポルトガル ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    After yesterday’s drama we ended up with a near new Skoda Octavia wagon so we can get back on track. First corner was a bit of a woops on the wrong side of the road but won’t take long to get used to it I hope. We headed east trying to follow the N222 which runs alongside the Duoro River to Pinhao. We found a fantastic river walk along the way with waterfalls and some stone structures that we are not sure of their purpose. Some very pretty glimpses of the Duoro on the drive but not a lot of stopping places. We had a bit of a walk around and something to eat at Pinhao but we needed to get to our digs at Lamego so we headed off for the 45 minute drive there. Getting to our apartment we were heading up increasingly narrow roads. Fortunately we were met by our hosts mother in law who let us in and guided us between walls of the street and where to park the car. A really large and beautiful apartment in an old building. A shame we will only have the one night stay here. Headed off to supermarket which was down a very steep cobbled path and bought some supplies and dinner. Portuguese butterflied chicken and salad never tasted so good. It’s very hard to eat healthy here. Not many vegetables going on. Nice to chill in our big place and eat in for a change.もっと詳しく

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  • Portugal & Spain
    Nossa Senhora dos Remedios
    Nossa Senhora dos RemediosNossa Senhora dos RemediosNossa Senhora dos RemediosNossa Senhora dos RemediosNossa Senhora dos RemediosAveiroAveiroAveiro Train StationAveiro Train StationAveiro Train StationAveiro Train StationAveiro1Hair cut, beard trim, ear, nostril and eyebrow tidy up.

    Aveiro

    2024年10月13日, ポルトガル ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    It was very difficult to leave our beautiful apartment early but we headed out to visit Nossa Senhora dos Remedios, a stunning sanctuary which sits on top of a hill reached by climbing 686 steps, with each level punctuated by sculptures, fountains and tiled religious murals. Surrounding both sides of the steps are gardens and trails. It was very peaceful as the tourist buses that frequent here hadn’t arrived yet so we just soaked in the views. Made our way back down for a coffee and the ever present pastry. Back at the apartment we packed up and got on the road to our next destination Aveiro which is south of Porto near the coast, around 90 km away. Decided on using toll roads today, which apparently Portugal has plenty off. The rental vehicle has a tag and any tolls fees are automatically paid with credit card at the end. Makes life easy. Aveiro is dubbed the Venice of Portugal which is a bit of a stretch. Yes there are canals and yes there are gondolas as such ( motorised mind you) but it’s not Venice. It is however a vibrant town with heaps of cafes and restaurants. Being Sunday there were lots of folks enjoying the sunshine (yes sun and fairly warm) and we just wandered the town, lunched, got a haircut and beard trim (first ever) and ate ice cream. Bit of a siesta then out for dinner. We are still doing lots of walking, but without any route or destination.もっと詳しく

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  • Portugal & Spain
    Early morning Aveiro
    AveiroAveiroCoimbra from Mondego River bridgeCoimbra University is the 15th UNESCA World Heritage siteEntrance to the Joanina LibraryJoanina Library, a baroque library considered one of the most beautiful libraries in the world1This building of the University was once the Royal PalaceCoimbra University, main hall of the King's quartersThe armory room in the old PalaceCoimbra University's main squareViews from Coimbra UniversityChapel of Sao Miguel, every wall is beautifully tiled to the ceilingOld Cathedral, CoimbraThe Old CathedralOld Cathedral, CoimbraOld Cathedral, CoimbraCoimbra old townCoimbra old townSkinny building Coimbra

    Coimbra

    2024年10月14日, ポルトガル ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    Woke up to a beautiful morning so had another stroll and coffee around Aveiro before heading off for Coimbra, around 110km south-east, Turned off toll roads on Google maps to get maybe a more interesting drive to Coimbra. I have since found out that there doesn’t seem to be a mid range between toll roads and back lanes as we were sent down some rat runs to get here. Still only took around 1 ½ hours and we could check straight in. Nice apartment in a great location, adjacent to the bridge over the Mondego River into the old town. Coimbra is renowned as having the oldest university in Portugal, dating from 1308. A main feature of the university is the Joanina Library, a Baroque style library completed in 1728. The library holds 60,000 books dating from the 16th to 18th century. Students can still put in requests to borrow items, dependant on how valuable the book may be, however they are not read in this library but another part of the university. We did a guided tour of the university and library, no pictures allowed in the library but a lot of information passed on. After the tour we explored a bit of the old town, had a beer and watched the world go by and dropped into a couple of churches. Dinner in the Baixa district of the old town and our day was done.もっと詳しく

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  • Portugal & Spain
    2Monastery of Santa Cruz
    Monastery of Santa CruzMonastery of Santa CruzBeautiful blue tile work on all the wallsCafe adjoining Santa Cruz monasteryConfessional booths now have another use in the cafe, doors to the lavatoriesCoimbraDebbie hooking into pork sandwich for brekkyMonastery of Santa Clara VerdeMonastery of Santa Clara VerdeWe had a delicious lunch in this house come restaurantCook's pick. Codfish and sardines with ricePork and beansMy Portuguese mate from AngolaView over Coimbra from the Monastery of Santa Clara NovaSilver tomb of Queen Isabel is lit up behind the central figureThe nuns sat behind curtains to listen to mass and receive communion through the metal grateCloister in Monastery of Santa Clara Nova

    Coimbra day 2

    2024年10月15日, ポルトガル ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    We headed over the river in the direction of the town markets but we were waylaid with a visit to Monastery of Santa Cruz which is in the centre of old town Coimbra. Founded in 1131 by King Afonso Henriques for the Order of Saint Augustine, it was the most influential monastery in the city and in the country. In the 16th century, it went through restructuring works. The best part was that it had a cool cafe next door which was converted from the monastery’s chapel. The cafe retained much of the chapel’s features so it was here that we had our first coffee for the day. Onwards up hill to the markets but by the time we got there a lot were closing. We still hadn’t explored our side of the river so we headed for the Pedro e Ines pedestrian bridge with a stop on the way at a place that only does speciality roast pork sandwiches. Couldn’t walk past that and of course another coffee. Crossing the river we visited the ruins of the Monastery of Santa Clara Verde which is directly opposite our hotel. Commissioned by Queen Isabel of Portugal, the construction of the monastery began in 1314 and was designed to house a convent of Clarist nuns, an order that lived in silence. The waters of the nearby Mondego River gradually encroached on the monastery, which was eventually abandoned in 1677. After the monastery we then back tracked to a little eatery we had passed on the way. There was no one in there so we took a seat and the waiter/cook/dishwasher came out in surprise and asked if we would like to see the other side of his house, so of course we followed him and this is where his customers were all sitting, looking over the ruins of the monastery. Interesting guy who had grown up in Angola until they got independence from Portugal in 1975. As we were leaving he came out with a bottle of chestnut port wine, that his uncle had made, and offered us a small glassful each. He then introduced his 85 year old mother who was in the kitchen cooking. After lunch we dragged our full stomachs up a very steep incline to the Monastery of Santa Clara Nova which was built to replace the flooded monastery down the hill. We jumped on a tour with another couple and enjoyed listening about how this order of nuns lived in silence. We also saw the gothic tomb of Queen Isabel, the patron Saint of Portugal, which was amazing. and the ornate church and cloisters. We then decided we had had enough up and down hills for one day, so we called it a day.もっと詳しく

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  • Portugal & Spain
    Nazare. Oops. Wrong spot.
    2Nazare. Right spot. Iconic red lighthouse.Nazare exhibitionNazare exhibitionPhoto in the exhibitionLooking down on Forte de Sao Miguel ArcanjoThe walk down to Forte de Sao Miguel ArcanjoClifftop walk in NazareLooking down on Nazare south beachHotel and parking in ObidosWhere breakfast is served in the morning2Testing the sour cherry in chocolateStrolling along Rua DireitaGinja (sour cherry liquor)Ginja (sour cherry liquor)ObidosObidos- A magnificent lemon tree1Busker, with a beautiful voice, at the gates to the old city in Obidos

    Obidos

    2024年10月16日, ポルトガル ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    A leisurely start today with breakfast at the cafe below our room and then it was off to Obidos, about 90 minutes south of Coimbra. We had planned a couple of stops on the way and our first was Nazare, where Atlantic swells are funneled into the underwater Nazare Canyon to generate huge swells and some iconic surfing photographs. Silly us actually went to the wrong spot, a breakwall on the south side of Nazare and got selfies etc till we realised it was not the lighthouse in the photos. So back in the car and 3km north we found the bustling upper town of Nazare, where Forte de Sao Miguel Arcanjo is located with the red lighthouse in those iconic photos. It also has some very cool exhibitions in a cavern with a lot of boards from big wave riders on display. No big swells today but it was great to get the perspective in real life. Back up the hill for lunch and the heavens opened for around 10 minutes so lucky we had an inside seat. Our next stop was to have a look at Praia del Rey golf course, rated as one of the best in Europe. Couldn’t help ourselves so we booked a round for when we are returning back this way. Time to get to our rooms for the next two nights and we have another great location directly on the outside of the old town wall and we even scored a parking spot. It is the owner’s family home from some time in the 1700’s with some beautiful furnishings and a garden out our window. The host welcomed us with a drink of ginja, a sour cherry liqueur which must be a local specialty as lots of shops are selling it. A typical way of drinking it is out of a small cup made of chocolate so I had to try that but Debbie found one was enough for her. A storm has come over this evening so hopefully that clears and it’s a nice day for exploring Obidos tomorrow.もっと詳しく

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  • Portugal & Spain
    The glorious dining room
    This breakfast spread was for me alone!2Walking the fortified walls that encircle the townThe aqueduct supplied water to the cities fountains2The quirky little barThe walled city at dusk tonight1

    Obidos day 2

    2024年10月17日, ポルトガル ⋅ 🌙 17 °C

    We had arranged with our host last night to have the breakfast in house and it didn’t disappoint. Sitting around his circa 1700’s table he had made the breads, jams and Portuguese tarts himself. We also got a run down on some of the furnishings and artworks, including a painting from the 1500’s! After breakfast we started exploring the walled city of Obidos, recognized by UNESCO as a “City of Literature”. There is a literary festival happening now but as it’s in Portugese we haven’t attended any events. We started by walking around the ramparts of the walls which totals around 1.5 km. There are so many photo opportunities, each vista seeming to be better than the last. Anyway, we had an easy day wandering the town and then a stroll to our favourite supermarket chain “Pingo Doce” who do amazing hot and cold cafe style foods including pork ribs and Portuguese chickens. Back home for a while then we headed to a bookshop in the old town. There was another festival talk going there but upstairs there was a woman making fine lace jewelry and Debbie picked up a bracelet that the lady modified from what was a bookmark for her. We were going to have some food from the supermarket for dinner but on the way home we passed a quirky little bar so we went in to have a Ginja and also some spicy sausages and cheese. Looks like our supermarket spoils will be lunch tomorrow.もっと詳しく

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  • Portugal & Spain

    Evora

    2024年10月18日, ポルトガル ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    After another breakfast around the circa 1700 dining table we headed off to our next destination. We decided to have a look at a town called Peniche on the coast around 30 minutes away for no known reason. When we got there it looked a bit grungy so we did a walk around the lighthouse and a bit of rock hopping over a really odd terrain, where it looked like the boulders had been drilled out with big hole saws. We hadn’t seen anything like it. We also watched a couple of guys fishing from a cliff, standing on the edge and casting out to a drop of what must have been 50 metres. On the way out of Peniche a couple of kilometres south is a surf spot called Supertubos where the WSL holds a round. It’s a very sleepy surf town, out of season, and there was no surf so we grabbed a coffee and hit the toll roads to Evora, the capital of the Alentejo region and around 150km east of Lisbon. Before getting to Evora we were hoping to look at a site like Stonehenge but 2000 years older however it was like the road was the original from when the stones were laid so we turned around with the car still in one piece. We arrived in Evora and again it was a challenge of negotiating very narrow lanes in the correct direction and not taking out someone’s front door but we got here, We unloaded the luggage and I drove the car to a free car park around 400 metres away. We threw a load of washing on which we have been looking forward to and had a look around the town and ticked off a couple of sites including The Chapel of Bones, where the walls and pillars are covered with thousands of bones and skulls. In the church next door there was a permanent exhibition of a private collection of nativity scenes, so if that is the thing that rocks your boat Evora is the place for you. After the excitement of the nativity scenes I had to have a drink which stretched into dinner and thoughts for tomorrow.もっと詳しく

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  • Portugal & Spain
    Overlooking the cemetery from Monsaraz Castle
    Entrance gate to MonsarazBullring and Keep, Monsaraz CastleMonsarazMonsarazMonsarazThe Keep, Monsaraz CastleMonsarazMonsaraz CastleThe bridge to Spain in the backgroundMonsarazThe cistern. MonsarazCromeleque do XerezAlqueva DamRoman ruins, EvoraEvora CathedralCloister, Evora CathedralEvora Cathedral

    Evora day 2

    2024年10月19日, ポルトガル ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    We awoke in a quandary- to revisit the 250 nativity scenes from the previous day or get in the car and drive to Monsaraz, probably the most beautiful monument village in Portugal, a walled city perched on top of a hill. After the toss of the coin we were on our way to Monsaraz, 55 kilometers west of Evora and only around 10 kilometers from the Spanish border. Monsaraz had always been highly coveted over the years and had been won and lost by Muslims, Moors, the Spanish, Muslims again and finally with the help of the Knights Templar it was reclaimed finally in 1232. The castle, which has a mini bullring, dates from the 14th century and has great views over Alqueva Dam, the largest artificial lake in Europe. Not many streets but we spent hours wandering. After Monsaraz we had a look at Alqueva Dam, fairly quiet as out of swimming season apparently. Heading to Evora we saw a sign for “Cromeleque”, which is a prehistoric stone circle, so that called for a detour. When we got back to Evora we visited some more sites including Roman ruins and Evora cathedral. Being Sunday arvo we finished up with ice creams in the square then I went for a beer at the local to get creative with the blog.もっと詳しく

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  • Portugal & Spain
    2Pastelaria Conventual Pao de Rama
    Pastelaria Conventual Pao de RamaSinesMonument at the castle next doorBeach bar Vila Nova de MilfontesVila Nova de MilfontesVila Nova de MilfontesFerry at Vila Nova de Milfontes1Chilling at Vila Nova de MilfontesSunset view from our outside area Vila Nova de Milfontes

    Vila Nova de Milfontes

    2024年10月20日, ポルトガル ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    Our plan was to head south west today to a town called Vila Nova de Milfontes but we had one last thing to do before leaving Evora and that was an early walk to Pastelaria Conventual Pao de Rama, a cake shop recommended by our host as the best in town. It certainly offered us a caffeine and sugar spike for our drive west. We stopped on the way at a coastal town called Sines for lunch and grabbed some supplies before getting to Vila Nova de Milfontes to be met by our host Fernando who showed us the way as trying to locate our apartment via GPS can send you around the world. It’s a fairly old apartment but very spacious and it has an unbelievable view from the shared outdoor area that we open onto. We had a small walk along the beach to test the water which being the Atlantic Ocean is fairly cool. Spent the late afternoon admiring the view from our pool area, watching the small ferry go back and forth across the river from below us and having a drink. We think it will be brief posts with no church photos from here as we chill for a day or two.もっと詳しく

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