La Vida Colorida

November 2018 - Mac 2020
  • Craig and Limbster
From fire spewing volcanoes, festivals & tacos in Central America to the wilderness, wine and adventure of Patagonia.
504 days, 12,096 hours & 725,760 minutes together.
Baca lagi
  • Craig and Limbster

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  • Sigiriya Rock

    12 Januari 2019, Sri Lanka ⋅ 🌧 23 °C

    Day 71 & 72.

    3 buses today, but all relatively smooth with seats secured. Limbster pulled out her best haggling skills (which until now must have been dormant) and landed us at her parents hotel. We were hosted by a small eccentric looking Sri Lankan man with a bad tendency to linger (but lovely all the same) and his rather intimidating wife.

    We were up at 4.45am and greeted with a coffee at the door from Paul, I could get used to this. It was time to head up Pigarula rock to catch the sunrise over Sigiriya rock, Percy treated us to a ride to save us the walk and we headed up the steps. It was a difficult climb but as a four we made it up in good time, sadly the same could not be said for sunrise.

    Great views all the same and no injuries which was certainly a win. Told Ellie's parents they should check out Adams Peak next, think they're keen.

    Down the rock in time for breakfast, captain linger served up some local cuisine, can't recall exactly what we ate but think it was dry, served with dry, topped with a little coconut sambol, which was dry. Good coffee though.

    Today we parted ways grabbed some bikes and went out exploring, some great lake swimming with views of the rocks. Unplanned days out together are certainly the best of the trip and this one was one of them! To top the days activities off it was back up the rock for sunset, second time lucky and the views were beautiful.

    Last night with the parents until colombo and we enjoyed some lovely drinks down at the treehouse, followed by you guessed it - curry and rice. So so so full again, think this over eating needs to stop soon but tonight was not the night to start. Few more Krakens courtesy of Paul and Diane whilst watching the fire flies then it was time we hit the hay.

    Top tip - Watch out for bus riding whiskey drinking men who have a tendency to undress whilst making direct eye contact. Alternatively just start giving Ellie the dam isle seat.

    P.s Limbster has become athletic overnight and I think it's a great look.
    Baca lagi

  • Pollonuwara

    13 Januari 2019, Sri Lanka ⋅ 🌧 25 °C

    Day 73 & 74.

    Checked into Ayama guest house today - nicest host couple we've had yet in Sri Lanka! Spent the afternoon making some drastic trip changes - due to unforseen visa drama Russia and Mongolia is now off the cards (blame yet to be determined). But this does mean we now have another month to play with, the possibilities!

    On the plus side Indian visa now accepted so some serious admin achieved!

    Second day we picked up some bikes and headed to the ancient ruins, lots of cycling around and exploring the temples / admiring the many Monkeys! Note to self, get Limbster a lighter bike next time - those poor Limby arms.

    After feeling a little rain we cycled to a nearby curry house out in the rice fields, turned out to be the best curry we have tried yet with bonus starters and deserts (and thermally hot - woop woop), well worth it!

    Back on those bikes and back to the pad, off to the East coast tomorrow!
    Baca lagi

  • Trincomalee

    15 Januari 2019, Sri Lanka ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

    Day 75 & 76.

    Quick bus today albeit the ride was an absolute rollercoaster, gorgeous views through the national park on our way out East - when we weren't focusing on holding on for dear life.

    Date night tonight, lots of rum drunk followed by langoustines (huge) & fries with ACTUAL pasta for dinner whipped up by 3 lovely local brothers (who had also been to Italy to train up their pasta skills). Best value food we've had and a welcome break from the rice n curry!

    Tuk Tuk driver knew the hotel today, being a whole 5km away my jaw nearly hit the floor, couldn't bloody believe it. Should be named Sri Lankan Tuk Tuk driver of the year..

    Hired some bikes to explore town, out of season and so barely a tourist to be seen! Added to the experience of this being one of our favourite places, wild dear roaming the roads, windy village streets lined with markets & temples, topped off with beautiful empty beaches.

    The Tamil people were also celebrating their new year whilst we were here, lots of celebrations and drumming into the night, think a few of the local elders may have consumed slightly too much Arrack however which left me fending off more drunken chats than I would have preferred.

    We however had further reason to celebrate as not only was our White cabana review published today (which we relished in 're reading) but we also booked our flight to India for 1 weeks time!!! Time to start planning.

    Top tip - Wouldn't recommend Trincomalee for a hair cut / beard trim. Far too much attention being paid to the Bollywood action movie than the razor sharp blade held to my neck, but what can you expect for £2.
    Baca lagi

  • Jafffffna

    17 Januari 2019, Sri Lanka ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C

    Day 77 - 79.

    Our route to Jaffna would be our longest trip to date on this little Island, and boy was it a brutal one.

    The bus ride can be best described as the high speed purple Harry Potter bus, but without the beds and instead as cramped and hot as the tube on Monday morning, we were unlucky enough to turn up late for this particular bus (never again) which meant standing for the full journey, a cool 270km..

    On the plus side the bus made only 3 emergency stops, either narrowly avoiding a fatal collission or slamming on the breaks when the police came into view. We took some small solace in the fact 30 people would be through the front windscreen before we got even close to it ourselves. They sold sweet corn for breakfast too so that was a plus, I guess.

    Checked into Tonys homestay (toplad), although it was called a homestay it was more of a hostel and it was out for dinner for 8 in no time. Met a great couple from Australia, both trainee doctors who have spent years in South and Central America, their stories subsequently got us very excited over some great Indian food (assuming we choose to put aside the 3 times they were mugged, "Once every six months isn't too bad hey")

    Set out exploring today, lots of k's on foot around Jaffna. Highlight was the library, full if elderly Sri lankan men peacefully spending the day examining the daily newpapers together. Not a woman in sight mind (apart from Limbster), presumably because they have a tendency to fall asleep on the tables. She did them proud.

    Next day it was out on the scooter, 170km covered around the Jaffna loop today. Incredibly fun ride along lonely coastal roads, bananna tree farms & at sometimes almost barron lands. Super interesting as aftermath of the war and Tsunami are still clear here. Stark contrast compared to the rest of Sri Lanka. People here are some of the nicest however and it's hello / goodbye at every corner which we are happy to reciprocate.

    Few wrong turns today, that darn arrow just can't keep still. It wasn't all down to limbster mind, hidden army bases often caught us by surprise. But they were as keen for us to explore the sights as we were so would quickly have us on our way, all in all one of the most fun days on this island to date!!
    Baca lagi

  • Kalpitiyia

    21 Januari 2019, Sri Lanka ⋅ ⛅ 26 °C

    Day 80 & 81.

    Arrived on the Kapilitiya Penninsula as a stop on route back to Colombo. Big Kite surfing spot and lots of amazing coastline to be explored.

    Hosted by a rather eccentric Czech gentleman, despite the Nemec family tree Ellie struggled with communication and we were regularly left bemused by the cryptic answers provided.

    Also it was apparent that little respect is paid between countrymen these days given she proceeded to "forget" to pay for one nights stay (in my defence I was in the shower at the time). Teach him for refusing limbster WIFI!

    Enjoyed drinks by the lake at the back of the hostel. Joined occasionally by the local donkeys, that being the ones that hadn't consumed so much plastic that they lay half eaten and very much dead at the roadside waiting in vain for the rain to wash them away.

    Anyway on a cheerier note, met a lovely couple from Swanage over dinner - living the dream life, 7 months work 5 months travel for the last 20 years. Need to look into buying a seasonal pitch and putt in and around Dorset area so can join them going forward. Great tips for India also.

    Learnt to always be overly friendly to locals after a near disastrous experience. Big bumps, phone lost, lovely old gentlemen saving the day and returning the trusty mobile, very relieved, Tiger to celebrate.

    Controversially opted out of pasta cooked by an Italian couple at the hostel tonight. What initially seemed like a rather rouge and anti social option turned into a great decision when the Italian served up was Spaghetti served with tomato ketchup, a full 4 litres of the stuff!

    Off to Colombo tomorrow for one final Hoorah with the parents, 5am start so an early one this evening.

    Note - Kalpitiya town itself wasn't our favourite, can't quite pin down what or why, need to think it over.
    Baca lagi

  • Colombo Part II

    23 Januari 2019, Sri Lanka ⋅ ⛅ 26 °C

    Day 82 - 84.

    Our time in Sri Lanka is nearly coming to an end, but not before two final nights in Colombo.

    Checked in to the Colombo Villa to stay with Paul and Diane for their last night. They had kindly stocked up on a fresh bottle of gin and some premium cheese and crackers, both of which went down slightly too well and completely finished by 2pm..

    Headed out for cocktails at Galle Face Hotel right on the beach for sunset, had been warned there may be a dress code so we put on our smartest attire, which translated meant the same clothes we wear each and everyday but without the havianas. As we departed the look up and down I got from our hotel owner didn't scream promise, but fingers crossed.

    Lovely sunset at the hotel and a great night in all (entry was successful btw) and it felt like we were on a real holiday! The next day it was rise and shine early to say farewell, we were sad to say goodbye, Ellie especially, only slightly consoled by the fact her backpack was now 5kg lighter!

    Spent our final day relaxing in the central park, surrounded by courting couples in every direction. Purchased a cracking pair of walking shoes - finally! Might be bright blue but at this stage the fear of being prematurely disabled for life by only wearing havianas for mile after mile means I would literally wear anything.

    Mixed hostel for our final night, had the treat of a double bed bunk bed which was promising at first. It all went downhill when we discovered the only other guest in the room was the 300 pound chef. As he waded into room after shutting up the kitchen it was clear that this was a man who could snore..

    Headed to the coast for dusk, spent our final night enjoying the sunset on the railway track over one last bottle of Lion. Plenty of reminiscing whilst avoiding the odd train, it's been quite the adventure and we wouldn't have changed a thing!

    P.s Turns out our instinct was correct, boy could that chef snore.
    Baca lagi

  • INDIA - Kochi

    24 Januari 2019, India ⋅ ⛅ 26 °C

    Day 85 & 86

    Safely touched down in India! First stop being Fort Cochin, one of many islands forming the backwaters of Kerala.

    Checked in and almost straight out for dinner with 4 others from the hostel. Feeling pleased with the crowd given nobody had been to an Ashram or become a yoga teacher during their time in India (a releif given literally every one else has).

    Strolled the town on foot adjusting to the new culture we had so recently arrived in. Surprisingly easy so far, we think the madness of Kathmandu has left us well and truly immune to chaos and all possible sights and smells sights.

    Managed to pick up not one but TWO copies of the lovely planet India we wanted, turns out both of us are as devious as the other slipping a copy into our bag simultaneously. After deciding one was enough we mulled away most of our time planning our india adventure (or at least a general travel direction) over some great filter coffee. We decided to head East, which was a start.

    Saw the famous Chinese Fishing nets here in action also which was cool. Opted out of fish for dinner however as Paneer is just so dam good. Not looking good for 85kg Craig however.

    Bought literally one of every sweet from local delicatessen, turns out the core ingredients of Ghee, colour dye and more ghee don't vary too much. We've found 1 each we like however for future treats, so a success overall! First chai too - and it was bloody brilliant.

    Boarded the bus (truck) to Alleppey and said bye to Fort Cochin. Transport is just as cheap as Sri Lanka - 2 buses and 3 hours later but only <£0.50p lighter, can't beat it!
    Baca lagi

  • Alleppey

    27 Januari 2019, India ⋅ ⛅ 26 °C

    Day 87 - 89

    The backwaters - something we had been excited to see for a long time, 900km of backwater canals ready to be explored!

    First we checked into Matthew Brown's residence, the least Indian sounding name I know but I assure you he was. In fact only a true south Indian could bear the 35° blistering heat in the hotbox he called a home without even contemplating opening a window.

    Headed straight out for Thali at a local eatery, food was great and has an extra spice that we didn't quite get in Sri Lanka. Perfecting the technique of eating only with your right hand however may take some time, no cutlery whatsoever, saucy curries and all. Ellie has particularly nailed this skill with a sharp 90° head crank followed abrubtly by launching that rice and curry right up onto her lips, I'm still learning.

    Had a rough first night, it's not all glamour this travelling lark and I was well and truly under siege from mosquitos. Too frugal to pay to additional air con fee I suffered greatly counting a good 30 bites come morning time.

    Quickly put this aside however and boarded the ferry to go pick up our canoe from a local back water villager. Sadly a houseboat with personal chef doesn't fit into a backpackers budget, as glorious as they look - so we opted for a full day back water canoe to take in the sights.

    Day was amazing, cruising around the backwaters was both super interesting and very peaceful, watching locals undergo daily activities from laundry to river dunking their parrots (it just as odd to watch too I assure you). Ellie forced me to put an Eagle on my shoulder today, seemed fairly domesticated but impressive nonetheless.

    Shinkesh spoke great English which helped our trip, in fact I think if anything it was Limbster causing the language confusion, seemingly shocked to find out matchmaking isn't a popular back water profession.

    Did a drive by toddy pick up in our canoe, toddy shops are the local drinking holes along the backwaters. These secretive little shacks are dotted around the place, prohibition style. End up inside a corrugated iron hut and you’ll be plied with the coconut hooch ranging from 5% to 30% depending on the time of day you arrive. Half a litre to go please.

    Not wanting to leave the backwaters we found a local homestay on one of the villages, best sunset over the river to date watching the boats cruise by and chatting to the locals, Ellie getting the attention (and kisses) of the cute children which me left fending off conversation from the patrons of the Hooch Tavern.
    Baca lagi

  • Puducherry

    29 Januari 2019, India ⋅ ⛅ 28 °C

    Day 90 & 91.

    It was our first Indian night bus and boy was it a pleasant surprise, oddly it was also our nicest accommodation in India to date! Upper deck, double bed with aircon, privacy and a view, absolute treat.

    12 comfortable hours later we arrived in Pudacherry, a small (for Indian standards) French style town on the east coast of India. Checked into the droid hostel at 5am, the place looked like it had come directly out of the hostel horror movie set, but they had a bed for us at least..

    We headed out for what on paper (and the lonely planet) sounds like you're ideal romantic evening, strolling the bustling central canal past fresh colonial cafes before reaching the coast to watch the sun set down whilst sipping on your first Indian beer. Reality however can sometimes put you in check and our night actually consisted of covering our nose (and hiding eyes if possible) whenever within 50 meters of the central canal, dodging street touts and overpriced tourist menus to reach the coast, only to be joined by countless rats if you can call these 2 foot long beasts rats that is. First Indian beer however did live up to expectations and allowed us to have a great evening together as always regardless.

    Woke on the second day to find a smiling limbster up from her bunk, eye mask on head and in my face at 7.05am. It was a snap decision but we decided in that moment this place just wasn't for us, after laboriously negotiating our way out of our two night booking we had a bus booked for that evening for Hampi.
    Baca lagi

  • Hampi

    1 Februari 2019, India ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C

    Day 92 - 95

    It was a rather long bus journey to Hampi, fortunately most of this time was spent sleeping only to be occasionally interrupted by a local crazy for a selfie or two, nearly perfected to a tee my awkward please leave me alone now smile.

    Hampi was a world apart from the hustle and bustle of big city life, mountains, rice fields and granite rock hills for as far as the eye can see, time to relax!

    After spoiling ourselves with a night in a cheeky 3* hotel (Indian Stars mind) for our 3 month travelling anniversary we decided it was time to reign in that budget and get couch surfing for the rest of our stay. A few messages later and it was Rajessh who offered to host us at his place, it was a tent and mouldy old pillow for us, but when it's free who's complaining.

    It was time to get back on the scooter and explore, plenty of good times cruising through rice fields, drag racing locals and some near life and death encounters with the local cattle. As ridiculous at it may sound and we fear repeating this to fellow travellers but we have concluded that Indian animals appear to show strong racist tendencies against white tourists. The evidence continues to mount after being charged at, not once but on TWO occasions whilst doing 60kmph by a local bull whilst he was happy to let the natives whizz on by without even a flinch. Its fair to say we had a shock.

    Spent the evening sipping chai, watching the sun go down and scrambling maybe a little too high up the nearby boulders. Ellie is getting better at climbing albeit against her own will. If we break up and come home separately I can safely say it'll be because I asked her to take that one extra step she ''just can't reach''.

    It was our final night and boy did Rajeesh not let us down. Fellow coach surfers had arrived from France and Romania and we spent the evening being ploughed with Indian Rum and good food. It later became apparent Rajeesh, our generous host, was rather wealthy and this mediocre campsite is merely a hobbie on the side of his brewery, hotel and farm! The gold necklaces, personal chauffer and all linen get up maybe should have given this away sooner.

    That being said he just wanted to make international friends and by 1am the 7 of us had seen off 4 bottles of Rum over sharing stories and doing just that.

    It was now time to leave Hampi, feeling relaxed and ready for the carnage that Mumbai has to offer..

    Few Lessons Leant in Hampi.

    - Do not scooter near bulls, they smell the fear.
    - Do not eat Thali curry on a hangover, the sweats are real.
    - Romanians after a few rums are pretty mental. Maybe before the rum also.
    - Indians love to couch surf host, great for future travels.
    - Ellie is a real selfie hit with the locals, lost count today but think she is likely on now 60+ Indian Facebooks.
    - The phrase clean water to swim in means literally nothing in India, expect to be swimming in plastic.
    Baca lagi