La Vida Colorida

november 2018 - marts 2020
  • Craig and Limbster
From fire spewing volcanoes, festivals & tacos in Central America to the wilderness, wine and adventure of Patagonia.
504 days, 12,096 hours & 725,760 minutes together.
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  • Craig and Limbster

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  • Jaipur

    7. marts 2019, Indien ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    Day 126 - 129.

    It was a smooth and scenic ride to Jaipur and as always we were regularly resupplied with onboard chai and samosas to keep us going.

    We arrived at Montys place, him and his new wife Harshita would be the kindest and most genuine couch surfing hosts we've had to date. Being an avid traveller Montys flat resembled our own, the colourful wall hangings, well stocked bar, as far as even owning some of the same colourful furniture as us (which ironically we likely imported at a grossly inflated price from Jaipur in the first place!)

    The next day, after feeling rested, clean and refreshed Jaipur was ours to explore. Limbster decided she would rise to the occasion and go out in style, although initially torn between the guilt of not wearing her new attire and the likely unwanted attention she decided to stay strong and head out sporting some classic Gujarati clothing. She looked fantastic might I add.

    Jairpur was a sprawling pink city, therefore as always we tried to get up high first - me having a slight fascination now with seeing every city from above before being ready to explore it. We headed out to see the famous Amer fort, an impressive sight although sadly we were to catch only the end of the elephant convey descending the great steps despite our sprinting efforts in the 30° heat. We were rewarded instead with having to dodge the plentiful elephant dung left behind afterward.

    Being a city of forts it was on to another for sunset, it was to be a long one as well thanks to our rather uncourteious Rickshaw driver but we embraced it nonetheless. It was hard to drag Limbster out of the fort museum (uncharacteristically a real stickler for history of late) however I eventually succeeded and we perched up on the fort wall. It was a perfect sunset view, and there we watched the daylight disappear whilst admiring the masses playing cricket on the sand dunes below.

    The town itself is a bit of a jungle, literally. Crossing the road is a daring adventure which requires you to dodge not only cars & rickshaws but jeeps, scooters, camels, cows, horses, monkeys the odd pig and last but not least elephants - granted the latter were relatively easy to spot. To our delight one thing that always seems to come hand in hand with such madness is exquisite street food and we certainly did not hold back, stopping on each corner for chai, pakora, kulfi or just some good old delicious Pav Bhaji!

    First, and second lassi here too, finally indulging in this famous Indian treat. Turned out to be just the sweet remedy for our bitterness one morning also after a few interesting encounters, but it is India after all.

    Our host continued to deliver in terms of entertainment in the evening, from seemingly never ending wedding albums to an evening of bollywood dance lessons with Montys wife and her sister - I'm still doing my best to ensure the resulting footage goes no further but it's good to know limbster got a good belly laugh or two.

    We spent out final evening with Monty and Harshita, sharing stories from childhood to politics over an ice cold beer and maybe one too many Jalebis.
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  • Agra - The Taj

    10. marts 2019, Indien ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C

    Day 129 & 130.

    We arrived in Agra, the home of the Taj Mahal with little expectations for the town itself. Not only had we been warned to not venture into town or head out at night by literally every backpacker but more worryingly by most Indians we have met too.

    Hopes weren't high but we arrived at the bus station relatively drama free, in fact it was much more pleasant than departing Jaipur early that day which upon departing our taxi I'd been tightly grabbed around the ankle by a man missing not only his other arm but both legs also, moving only on a wooden plank with skateboard wheels attached. Having become relatively acclimitased to such sights meant I was only slightly unnerved & moved on swiftly, however a common and sad sight nonetheless.

    On a slightly more uplifting note 6 hours after this we were at the Taj Mahal!! After quickly dumping our bags in our nearby hostel we headed straight for sunset on the nearest rooftop, feeling we deserved an ice cold beer after a long travel day. Limbster nailing it with her choices once more delivered the perfect spot for 360° views and most importantly the best view of the Taj outside the city - it was perfect. We sat for hours sharing shandy's and veg pakoda, surrounded only by the local children flying their kites in the wind and the overwhelming presecene of the monument itself.

    After opting out of rising at dawn the next day for the most desired Taj photos we enjoyed a proper lie in. It might sound odd but moving about so much and squeezing those lemons each and every day means regular alarms - so it was nice for once to set it for 9.45am. After a leisurely breakfast we headed to the much anticipated Taj, and it did not disappoint.

    Feeling budget savy I'd sourced a cheeky free audio tour the night before, benefits of this being two fold, not only did we enjoy a 2 hour humour filled Taj audio tour but the presence of our headphones deterred most shouting touts & unwanted Indian tourist attention from our paths. I say most, it depends how you look at it really, today we were asked for 23 selfies from different groups when in the Taj itself - yes we counted.

    After concluding our audio tour (which was amazing btw) we felt obliged to get the typical Taj tourist photos, we're here once after all! This isn't as easy as it looks however, and I promise you every photo you see with no bulging crowds of indian tourists included means soneone has fought hard to get it. Turns out just like the masses we were willing to do just that too and managed a few cheeky crowd free snaps ourselves (they're not winning any prizes but will do for us!)

    After a relatively sketchy final dinner (Agra wasn't advertised as a culinary destination after all) we packed our things and headed to our night Bus. It was time to cross East & see what Varanassi has in store for us.
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  • Varanasi

    11. marts 2019, Indien ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C

    Day 130 - 132.

    Heading to Varanasi (the Holy capital) meant crossing some delightful 900km of road, at least in some parts this was the case - the bumps on my head indicate that a good proportion still remains very much a dirt track.

    Regardless of injuries, 13 hours and countless packs of orange biscuits later we had arrived. Expecations again were relatively low, Varanasi had been sold by many as a place that HAD to be seen but also one that would truly test each and every sense in our body. Not only is this the Holy capital of this deeply religious country but it is also known as the dirtiest, poorest and most scam rich area in nearly all of India.

    In fact this really was a city that has to be seen to be believed, the Ganges river is lined for miles with countless ghats, Ashrams and temples all of which are bustling with life (and death) from dawn to dusk. From the spiritual rituals, to the morning bathers and those simply paying their respects to the dead, whatever the occasion it was always quite something to watch!

    It was certainly a town of firsts, and one where you had to have your wits about you; turn that narrow alley too quickly and right in your face a dead body being charged at you, enjoying that fresh blueberry Lassi but just glance in the wrong direction, another dead body rolling on by to really put you off. (Lassi's were still finished off of course, just once I'd finished persuading Limbster the dead skin cells hadn't in fact made it into her drink).

    Although very morbid it was actually fascinating and totally normal for those living here to see dead bodies carried through the streets and cremated on the waters edge all day long. On a positive note on the back of this visit we now have very clear funeral plans for one another, and if fate should have it, bring on Billy Joel and a big old oak tree at Lepe beach to remember us by.

    Varanasi so far has been the people watching capital of India for us. Home to countless Ashrams, and with the soon approaching annual Holi festival means my favourite Sadhus are in abundance here, there is literally orange everywhere and I love it - every street is a photo opp, much to Ellies dismay.

    Sadly, unlike the holy men all around neither of us quite had the stomach to take the almightly dip into the Ganges whilst here and thus remained firmly on our Boat or the safety of the ghats. We also discovered the numbers six and seven are pronounced with such similarity that limbster cannot tell the difference, swiftly dodging her 'what are the odds' commitments, once again.

    Although beautiful at sunrise and dusk, 3 full days of 35° heat accompanied with what seemed like the full concentration of Brazils mosquito population began to take it's toll on us alongside every other foreigner in Varanasi. Limbster especially suffering from the fateful combination of real mozzie bites and sheer paranoia decided it was time we said farewell to the Varanasi adventure.

    Few top games here to note for memories also.

    1. Dodge the Cow Tail. (Cow 1 Limbster 0)
    2. All the dobble (Craig 1 Limbster 0)
    3. Would you rather, Varanasi special (Too many crackers to note, have to hand it to Ellie here, Craig 0 Limbster 1)
    4. The 5 rules of Varanasi (Dodgeball) are key when walking, dodge duck dip dive & dodge
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  • New Delhi

    14. marts 2019, Indien ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    Day 133 - 139.

    Delhi was very much a tale of two cities for us, on the one side it was a town of bribing police officers, walking the slums and avoiding menancing children with paint filled water bombs on a daily basis. On the other it was late nights chatting politics (the usual Modi down low), enjoying panarmoic views of Delhi and sharing a glass or 4 of Chile's finest Red.

    The latter of course was courtesy of Pawan, our super freindly couch surfing host. We weren't to know this before hand but Pawan lives on the 18th floor of Delhis newest gated community, which would be luxury back home, let alone Delhi. We're not quite sure how we feel about it just yet, it feels somewhat morally wrong to be volunteering at a Delhi slum school during the day but retreating home in the evening to be wined and dined. Sufficed to say comfort and his city night tours in the 4x4 won us over swiftly and we stayed put.

    Exploring the heart of this old city was sheer madness. The old city in particular, home to Asia's biggest spice market and just about every form of transport imaginable meant for incredible sight seeing, forget the camels the main mode of transport in Delhi is still man, you quickly learn to swiftly sidestep upon hearing the rising chorus of shouting from behind, always just narrowly avoiding the 900kg almond cart that undoubtedly comes pummelling past.

    The modern metro here has not only proved a lifeline from the above but also a great time out for impromptu Spanish lessons, courtesy of Limbster. I think as a result my Spanish is really coming along, can't speak for Ellie as much (apparently something to do with my questioning) but hey it's not a race...

    We weren't in Dehli to just sight see after all, our main commitment was the PETE NGO working at the nearby slums. Although the charity itself was sadly super inefficient (so much so limbster went full jewellery shop one day) it was still a great cause and really helping local slum families so we were determined to have a positive impact. Limbster actively defying Shiva to distribute clothing to as many kids as possible being a real highlight of our stay.

    On Day 3 Pawan went AWOL along with a fellow couch surfer who had arrived late in the night... It would turn out he would not return for the next 3 days, which meant the flat and it's entourage of cook, cleaner and secretary was all ours to look after. Rather than questioning the oddness of the situation we chose to embrace it, and for the next 3 days it felt like we were back in an upgraded version of 42 empress heights! Oh how you can miss the simple pleasure of cooking breakfast, shopping at the local store and a cheeky G&T on the balcony to finish the day!

    It might be time to reign it in with the food, although not sure what impact it will have with 3 days remaining, but the bad habit of ordering not 1 but two dinners every night has to stop, no matter how good the Chole Bhator is! Jalebis however can continue, god how we love a good Jalebi - or twenty :D

    After saying farewell to Shiva and the kids at PETE it was time to leave Delhi - how one week has flown by!

    P.s

    It was a choice of a 200 rupee bribe (£2) or a ticket and trip to court after running a red light... shame English police don't quite follow this efficient practise.

    We don't know if Pawan ever returned with the aforementioned couch surfer. His bedroom door remained locked throughout. Sure everyones alive and well..
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  • Jaipur Part ll - HOLI!

    20. marts 2019, Indien ⋅ ⛅ 32 °C

    Day 141 - 143

    The final stop on this incredible Indian adventure brings us back to Jaipur on the eve of India's biggest and most colourful festival - Holi!

    After successfully sourcing some appropriately white attire (albeit very last minute) along with plenty of lovely mustard oil for Ellie's hair & the beard we were ready for the celebrations. We went to bed fully prepared for total carnage come morning, truthfully I was not expecting us to make it into the Uber without being completely bombarded with paint, only time would tell.

    At first light we headed over to Monty's, our previous CS host and were joined by some of his family for some pre paint party prep. We miracualously made it to the Uber and across town unscathed, concluding the children must still be sleeping, it was 6am after all! Monty has sourced a stack load of paint, we couldn't wait to get started & took to the roof to get our pre battle faces ready. The children it appears have now awakened, boomboxes have moved to the rooftops and Hindi classics can be heard far and wide!

    Driving through the streets of Jaipur to our Holi party was quite a sight, children, shop owners, policemen & just about everybody else was head to toe in pink, yellow and blue paint. The streets for Jaipur standards at least were deserted, with the participation in the colour festival taking precedent over the usual day to day activities.

    You wouldn't get what came next anywhere else but India, certainly not in the western world. We arrived at 9am to a festival like area with booming music, a delightful if slightly odd combo of Hindi & Western remixes. Not only was everybody dancing their heart out, there was not a drop of alcohol or drugs in sight. We quickly loosened ourselves from our typical western reluctance to dance when not properly intoxicated and headed for centre stage to really let go, limbsters moves especially proving a hit with the locals. My mix of classic old man dancing merged with the odd bollywood move I'd copied of a local was less attractive, the video doesn't lie.

    By midday the dancing began to take its toll, not only is dancing to Hindi music rather intense, the constant throwing of paint under the 34° heat was having it's own impact, my initial bright colours beginning to darken as the swear started to seep through - nice. We sought the solace of our hostel rooftop for the remainder of the day, hiding in the shade and enjoyed some well deserved Jalebis.

    The remainder of our stay here was consumed with somehow shifting the 13kg of Indian goodies we had accumulated for our dream house back in the UK (Still hypothetical of course). The post office as expected after our previous Nepalese experience was pretty old school but by far the cheapest option. After waddling our way there we would spend a mere two hours inside before parting with our cash and saying goodbye and good luck to our well travelled belongings.

    It is also time to reluctantly say goodbye to India and what has been an unforgettable adventure. We had toyed with overstaying our visa, given the willingness to accept a good old bribe I'm sure we would escape the government customs officers just fine but eventually decided against it, memories here will last forever - & it's time to make plenty more in the Phillipines.
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  • PHILIPPINES - Bantayan

    26. marts 2019, Filippinerne ⋅ 🌧 26 °C

    Day 144 - 148.

    After choosing the Philippines as the final stop on this 6 month adventure we thought the hard part was over. However it turns out narrowing down 7,107 islands all appealing in their own right to just 4 or 5 is a near impossible task!

    It would take 36 hours, 1 Rickshaw, 3 flights, 2 taxis, 1 bus, a ferry and finally a tricycle to reach our first island paradise destination, Bantayan. The contrast to the lifestyle in India was huge, island life instantly feels chilled, Filipinos are vibrant, constantly smiling / singing (especially singing actually) with crystal blue waters surrounding us on every side to top it off. We're going to like it here we think.

    Modes of transport as with every country we've been have their own unique twist. Here custom brightly coloured Jeepeneys roam the islands, imagine an American school bus but bright green with blue graffiti, lowered to the ground and cut in half lengthways, somehow they perfectly fit the palm tree lined island landscape! Once on the island anything goes, whether it's 6 people in a sidecar attached to a motorbike, or simply being pulled along by a cart questionably balanced onto a BMX.

    With the arrival of Howard and Soph and the group now all together it didn't take long to get through a few bottles of the Philippines finest rum, at £1.20 for a large bottle it's insanely cheap, in fact it's even cheaper than the mixer you need to go with it. After virtually 5 months of detox this was going to take some time to get used too. Parties as such don't exist on this island, the locals prefer karaoke, and boy can they sing. Karaoke bars are full with families and friends singing there hearts out, and after a few rums that's exactly where we ended up too. With some help from the locals we rattled through hits from the Chillis to Oasis, our stage presence increasing with each additional tequila forced on us by Limbster, the absolute feind.

    The island itself could be looped on a scooter in a few hours, so that's what we set out to do. Roads are virtually deserted so cruising the palm tree lined sand tracks is pretty perfect, and super fun! Every other turn had something in store, from a new beach to explore, a snack stand stocked with fresh coconut & bbq or simply another jam packed basketball game.

    We have our football, India have their cricket and it quickly became apparent Filipinos have their basketball. On an island the size of the Isle of Wight we must have counted 50 outdoor courts, each packed with smiling players well into the night. Our task is now to just participate in a game!

    Departing with our scooter we took to the water in a few kayaks and set out to explore the mangroves nestled in the clear blue water. Totally deserted they were ours to explore and we didn't hold back, sometimes getting a little too tangled amongst those long branches! Limbster although hesitant at first turned out to be a cracking rower, and we covered a huge distance. Only Howard made it in to retrieve his sunglasses, he might have been more hesitant if we had spotted the countless sea snakes beforehand!

    A flat tire on Jon's scooter couldn't even get us down and turned into an experience itself when we were instantly accommodated by the closest village. Taking us in, making us comfortable & without even being asked set to work on the repairs without fuss. Surrounded by all manner of farm animals and countless playful children made for an enjoyable few hours.

    On our final night we headed back to our favourite bbq joint, virtually all restaurants here have a bbq out front and it's a pick your own meat of fish kind of vibe. For us it was huge plates of fresh scallops lathered in garlic sauce followed by fresh chicken on a stick, all washed down with a tad too much soy sauce!

    After 4 nights here it was time to reluctantly say goodbye, this island would be hard to beat.
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  • Malapascau

    30. marts 2019, Filippinerne ⋅ ⛅ 29 °C

    Day 149 - 151.

    We would be saying goodbye to Jon, Howard and Soph for a few days as we headed to Malapascua and they ventured South.

    We boarded our private boat (majority funded by a lovely south Korean family) and thus avoided a day of public transport and got a bargain 2 hour private boat across the straight to Malapascua - an island a 100th the size of the already tiny island we had just come from! And what a way to travel it was, this certainly beats the night buses of India, only 8am and the sun is easily late 20s°, perfect for a boat cruise.

    Malapascua was certainly disconnected, with no roads, atms or general services- doctors police etc it was a pretty basic style of living. We headed out to discover the island on foot, traversing the maze of local villages, countless cockrels on every corner and the happiest children we are yet to come across - just don't throw sand in their face, they do not like that, not one bit.

    After sourcing limbster a snorkel and mask (for the second time might I add, just for the bants) we aimed to reach every bay on the island and make the most of our new equipment, and we did just that. Leapfrogging from beautiful beach to beautiful beach exploring the corals wherever possible and avoiding those pesky thresher sharks, or at least some of us where...

    Real test of the old swimming skills here, both noted serious improvements required to diving skills / breath holding ability, my swimming could use a small upgrade in performance also. All in good time.

    Slight improvement in food variety here also, able to source vegetable kebabs and thus provide some relief to a near starving limbster. Corn onion and more bloody corn was on the menu as a result, that was when she could stomach it mind, something to do with a dog some missing face and a set of pertruding teeth from memory.

    It's not all fair as we did find some cracking pesto bread and a Greek salad at our favourite snorkelling spot, golden rule being it's just never the same twice but a welcome treat nonetheless.

    To escape the crowds, or the few other people on this island we went local style and hired an old school paddle boat. It could have been a result of us miscontruing the advert for paddle boards but hey we decided to embrace it regardless. We spent the hour enjoying the sun go down over a San Miguel whilst Limbster made every attempt to capsize us throughout, fortunately to no avail!

    P.s always keep an old boarding pass, you never know when you might need one.
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  • Malabuyoc - Waterfall Territory.

    2. april 2019, Filippinerne ⋅ ⛅ 28 °C

    Day 152.

    After nearly a week of settling into the Filipino island lifestyle we decided it was time to spice it up and go on a little adventure - aka waterfall hunting. This meant a dawn departure from Malapascua and an 8 hour ride South through the awesome jungle landscape of Cebu!

    Arriving ahead of Jon Soph and Howard me and Limbster were just in time to catch the sunset over the mountainous (and very dramatic) Negros Oriental backdrop and what a sunset it was, we even had the luxury of enjoying it from our own pool, a first for here & a special moment indeed - Limbster couldn't stop bloody smiling in fact :)

    As a reunited wolf pack we set about picking out the waterfalls we would target the following day, the island is full of them so picking out the lesser known gems was our aim, and boy did we nail it.

    Tricycles would be our method of transportation to reach the base of each waterfall and from there we would traverse the jungle (with the help of a local or two), swimming, climbing and jumping our way to the top of the falls.

    Peer pressure is a killer after all and it didn't take long for a 6 foot jump to become 20.. which then quickly and worryingly escalated to 50! (Worth noting the Olympic diving board height is a megere 33ft!!)

    In hindsight it was crazy especially given the nearest doctor would be hours away but it was certainly an experience that will be forever remembered, plus the photos are absolute gold.

    Our last waterfall of the day would be our best find yet and the one I had been waiting for - Kabutongan falls. Accessed via only a rather terrifying 15 minute ride on the back of a local motocross bike certainly got the adrenaline going, there where no roads - only steep palm tree lined dirt tracks.

    After entering the first pool it was an hour journey up stream, zig zagging through the jungle, up the cascading levels and through the deepwater caves. Jumping opportunities were abundant & not a tourist in site was the icing on the cake for everyone!

    Proud I managed to get limbster off a cheeky 9 footer jump here, she didn't even give it a second thought the absolute dare devil. Equally proud of the Fila's for holding out against all odds.

    Worth noting no injuries arose from the diving, a minor scare or two maybe but nothing life changing.
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  • Moalboal

    3. april 2019, Filippinerne ⋅ ☀️ 30 °C

    Day 153.

    Without a second to spare we waved goodbye to waterfall territory and headed back up the coast to the much anticipated Moalboal, the backpacker hub of Cebu - and with good reason.

    Moalboal is very unique for one feature alone - sardines, millions and millions of sardines. Amazingly armed with just a snorkel and some fins anyone can swim 30 meters off the beach, over a huge coral cliff and instantly be immersed in over 2 million of the little fellas. The shoals of sardines stay here all year round and swimming amongst them feels like something that should be on a David Attenborough BBC doco.

    Watching the Sardines move simultaneously was mesmerising, so much so none of us left the water for hours on end, taking it in turns to dive into the deep blue wall of fish and watching them effortlessly split off at all angles. Occassionaly me and Limbster would tag team, our tactics where immpecable I must say and we managed to drive thousands of the sardines right at one another over and over again.

    It wasn't just the Sardines that we will remember, the reef was one of the best we'd seen, full of life and colour, from jelly fish to octopus' to our absolute favourite, great big sea turtles. Moving slightly more our speed the turtles made for great watching and we were able to really get up close!

    After a full day of snorkelling broken up only for food & a maybe a few too many San Miguels we were all knackered. Back on the bikes we headed up to white beach to end a great day with our final Sunset together on Cebu.

    On route home we caught a glimpse of our first cock fight, not something we really wanted to seek out but as it's such a big part of the culture here we were always intrigued to catch a glimpse. It was as imagined pretty horrific and we were swiftly on our way.

    It was farewell to the others for now, and onto Palawan for us.

    P.s found a cinnabon in the airport today, never seen Ellie so happy, we absolutely smashed through it.
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  • Puerto Princessa

    4. april 2019, Filippinerne ⋅ ⛅ 31 °C

    Day 154 - 155.

    After saying goodbye to Cebu it was time for a quick internal flight over to Palawan with our good old friends Air-asia, who in recent months we have grown to truly despise. Fortunately it was a smooth and short flight over the Sulu sea, a sea swamped with small castaway like islands, so many in fact we quickly lost count.

    We arrived into Puerto princessa, the biggest town across Palawan to a city wide drought, which meant no running water whatsoever, given it was 35° on arrival this wasn't the best news. Bucket showers would become the norm for the next few days.

    Having done little to no research as to what our next 3 week's might include we settled down and maximised the use of the free coffee available to build a rough itinery. Limbster was in full swing today and rattled through Lonely planet, rough guides and multiple blogs in quick succession whilst I wrestled with booking.com relentlessly, sadly to little avail.

    With the blend of Vietnamese culture in Puerto Princessa we were able to source some great new food, an genuinely local vegetarian resturant being our best find - we could hardly believe our eyes. Pho, Spring rolls, Tofu and a few more spring rolls - by far our cheapest meal here yet too!

    On a seperate note starting to become slightly concerned 're our intake of soy sauce, not enough to reduce it just yet but it can't be good near on drinking the stuff each evening.

    As a result of our productive planning it was time to leave this town and head onwards to Port Barton, a quiet beach side island hopping destination!
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