SÜDAMERIKA

November 2017 - June 2024
An open-ended adventure by Luisa Read more
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  • Day 73

    LA PAZ

    January 28, 2018 in Bolivia ⋅ ⛅ 7 °C

    Crazy city! La Paz is not the capital, but the place where the government sits, with 3800m above nn it’s the highest seat of a government worldwide and with Evo Morales Bolivia has got his first indigenous president for 12 years now.
    On the first day we‘ve been walking around the center, guided by an 19-year-old engaged Bolivian guy who had a new tattoo when we met him again the next day - his initials on his cheek for 20 Bolivianos (~2,30€) - and he told us we should not be worried about security in La Paz, but got robbed out twice - I mean they even took his shoes - while visiting Buenos Aires and Bogota. Anyway he was a nice guy and we learned a lot about the life in La Paz nowadays.
    The San Pedro prison is probably the bizarrest place I ever heard about up to now, I need to read ‚Marching Powder‘ asap!
    Of course I had to take the opportunity to ride a MTB for 60km down the ‚Camino del muerte‘ starting at 4300m going down all the way to the jungle. A few years ago it was the only connecting road in this area, about 250 people died every year due to bus/car accidents, but luckily there’s a proper street now. The view was awesome, the change of the landscape impressive and I had lots of fun on the bike, but to be honest the two-meter wide, so called deathroad is not that dangerous for cyclists if you’re not super unlucky or super stupid. Sure the fact that it goes down for 600 meters right next to the road can be intimidating, but since I‘ve been on way more dangerous single treks in the Dolomites, the thing I was afraid of the most, was the fact that I‘m in a country where I would not like to go to the hospital at all. But it was a fun day and I enjoyed beeing back on the bike a lot.
    Furthermore I felt safe in the areas where I was moving around in La Paz, way more than expected, but spending 4 days in a big city is enough for me.
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  • Day 79

    Sucre

    February 3, 2018 in Bolivia ⋅ ⛅ 7 °C

    After beeing constantly on the move and having the first real negative experience during my travels, I asked myself, for the first time in two and a half months, why the hell am I doing this. I felt like I would like to go home for the very first time. But I decided to give myself some rest and settle down for a bit, because I didn’t wanted to make this decision out of a temporal temper.
    I ended up spending two weeks in Sucre, the tiny capital with just 300.000 inhabitants. I had a room just for myself in the house of my lovely lovely host Javier. Went to Spanish classes every day where learned a lot, not only the language, my teacher Grover told me so many interesting stories about Bolivia, the culture and the people and his childhood in the Andean mountains. I had a routine, went to the gym every single day and couldn’t have enjoyed it more (except of the fact that the training on 2800m is quite exhausting!), it felt so good to be back on track for a while. Furthermore I went to the Mercado Central to buy fresh fruits and veggies, which all come from nearby or at least from anywhere in Bolivia. I didn’t ate a lot of local dishes since I enjoyed cooking so much. But I went to my first salsa class which was more fun than expected, but I just don’t have any sense of rhythm, never had, never will.
    The city itself is nice, lots of white buildings in the center with an beautiful university - the second oldest in Southamerica. I felt safe everywhere I was, been strolling around the city a lot, but of course I wasn’t wandering around alone at night.
    I don’t like carnival a lot back home, so I didn’t liked it in Sucre either. People were going crazy for one week, I have no idea where they’ve got the energy from. There were heaps of parades in the streets every single day, playing the same three songs all the time, all day long until 1 or 2am, right in front of my house. Not only children liked to throw waterbombs at you, probably out of a car that’s passing by or just casually from the rooftop of their houses, or way worse: spray a white foam on you, no matter if you just tried to go home asap or you‘ve actually been participating the party.
    Nevertheless I enjoyed my time in Sucre, it flew by so fast since my days were kinda busy, beeing able to volunteer in an orphanage for the last days made it an quite challenging but outstanding experience!
    Bolivia is the first country I had something like a cultural shock, hm no that’s not the right expression since I wasn’t actually shocked. But in comparison to Uruguay, Argentinia and Chile it felt for the first time like a place that’s really far away from home, totally different than everything that I‘m used to. People over here look so different than I do, I met people that were only as tall as my hips are. Way more people are - even in the cities - dressed traditionally, and the women are carrying everything in big colourful cloths on their backs: children, food, chairs.
    Everything smells different. People do different things, there are so so many people who are actually doing nothing. Bolivia is one of the poorest /countries in Southamerica, not having access to the coastline is not helping at all.
    Once more I was taught how incredibly blessed I am, how lucky I was that I was born under this circumstances, into this society, that I was raised by this family.
    The hygienic standard dropped enormously by crossing the border, the ones who know me could might imagine how I feel about that, but I‘m improving every day, telling myself that it’s not going to kill me over and over again.
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  • Day 95

    Lago Titicaca

    February 19, 2018 in Bolivia ⋅ ⛅ 27 °C

    Spent the last two days at the Titicaca Lake in the small town Copacabana, still in Bolivia but right at the border to Peru. The hostel I stayed in was quiet and ecological, run by a young family that served the most delicious vegan/vegetarian dishes with vegetables straight from their garden. The only thing I could complain about was the worst matress I ever slept on, but they had yoga mats so I was able to release the pain a little bit. I couldn’t have wished for better weather and more sun, but it gets really cold at night there, since the Titicaca Lake is located at 3800m nn - the highest shipable lake worldwide. The daytrip to Isla del Sol which is a slow, veeery slow 2h-boatride from Copacabana, was lovely! The view from the miradors over the green island with heaps of agriculture terraces, different flowers and butterflies, onto the shiny blue lake with small bays and the snowcovered Andean mountainrange, was stunning. Besides the landscape is Isla del Sol an very important joint for the Inka culture. The legend says that the god of the sun Inti, let his children -the first two Inkas Manco Capac and his wife Mama Ocllo - down on this island. Unfortunately you can only visit the south of the island, because the northern part is currently closed for visitors due to conflicts between the inhabitants of both sides. I think there are living about 2000 people, most of them indigenous, who mainly live of the tourism.
    Of course I couldn’t resist and took a quick, refreshing dip in the clear lake before we had to leave. I explored the island together with an Argentinian I met in the hostel and spoke spanish for the whole day, yay!
    Back in town I had fresh grilled fish (trucha - Forelle) at one of the tiny streetfood-places right by the lakefront, for dinner.
    I could have easily spent another day on the island, just strolling around, exploring and enjoying the view or just laying at one of the tiny beaches, since the weather was that nice.
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  • Day 102

    SIXTHOUSANDFIFTYSEVEN!

    February 26, 2018 in Peru ⋅ ⛅ 5 °C

    Summited Vulcano Chachani the other day. Everyone said I can’t climb it in one day - so I climbed it in one day.
    It was challenging in a way I never experienced it before, but I‘m glad I made it.
    I decided to go for the less common tour without the one night stay in the high camp - it was a challenge to find a guide who would do it in one day and furthermore there needed to be at least 3 persons to split up the costs. It was pretty random how the team came together in the end, a Canadian girl who works in goldmines at minus 30 degrees six months straight a year (so tough!) and an friend from Israel of her, who decided to come with us within 2 minutes, were my companions in the end. I was exited and a little bit nervous as well the night before, because this girl from Taiwan who wanted to join me in the beginning, just until she realized that I want to do it in one day, told me that she’s a doctor and its a stupid idea and could be lifethreatening to go for it just in one day. I proofed her wrong, she actually was part of the other group that tried to make it in two days, we could’ve met at the summit, but all 7 persons of this group quit and turned around.
    We started to climb in the middle of the night with our lovely guide Julio. Had a quick breakfast and some cocatea at the highcamp and after the sun finally came up were finally able to see something and had an amazing view when looking back. The first half felt (too?) easy, but as we know from running marathon: the second half will hurt more, for sure. We were moving slowly, so I wasn’t sore or whatever, but the lack of oxygen kicked in - unfortunately my ego refused to take some aspirin or altitude pills (which is basically the same I rekon) before - the headache got worse with every 50 meters up, I was a little bit dizzy and most of all just so sooo tired. I never thought that I would be able to lay down on the ground at minus 10 degrees and fall asleep - now I know better, I am. Due to fog, clouds and snow the view got worse the higher we came. Our guide decided to skip as many snowfields as possible, even tough that means that we have to go a longer way - not the worst idea, the other group on that day had to turn around after being to long on the snowfields. The Israelian quit at 5700 or 5800 and I tried my best to motivate my friend from Canada, in between focusing on just making one step after another. I was kinda puffed out, but not the kind of I’m used to from intense training sessions, strange feeling. But anyway you’re not able/ I was not able to think properly anymore at the end, human brains are just not made for a minimum of oxygen. Luckily I hadn’t had any bigger issues with my stomach, I just refused to eat. The last break at 6000m was the worst for me, I was even more exhausted afterwards and didn’t wanted to move anymore, since my head felt like it could explode every second. But since giving up is no fcking option I made my way up to the very top. The view was not existing since we had a whiteout, I was a little disappointed because it’s supposed to be so good, but happy after all that I reached my first 6k.
    The way down was easier and quicker, but due to my head every single step hurted like hell.
    Back in Arequipa I went to bed early after having a burger with my teammate Andrea and was pretty happy the next day that the headache was finally gone.
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