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Camino Francés
  • Traci Pedersen
  • Traci Pedersen

Camino Francés

Une aventure de 46 jours par Traci En savoir plus
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  • Début du voyage
    13 septembre 2025
    Traci PedersenCamino FrancésVoyageur
    Beautiful St.Jean Pied de Port, France
    1Pilgrim's mass at the cathedral in St. Jean the night before we started our Camino.2Can you see the sign on the wall? So happy to start this walk with Grace. 😀Starting our climb up into the Pyrenees1Still feeling pretty strong at this point 😂Taking a much needed break!Barely making it up by the end!Our pilgrim's dinner at Borda Albergue1Except for the snorers, the accommodations are excellent.

    Day 1: St. Jean Pied de Port to Borda

    13 septembre 2025, France ⋅ ☁️ 64 °F

    Everything I’ve read about the Camino Francés says that the first stage is the most difficult, so Grace and I were feeling pretty confident the first couple of hours of walking today. I was starting to feel like I was worried for nothing. I mean, it was all up hill and it wasn’t easy, but it wasn’t THAT hard. Oh, how silly of me to get so comfortable! About 5 kilometers in, the trail got steeper with no flat spots at all to rest, and by the 8th kilometer, I was barely able to keep going up, but I did it anyway. I’ve been calling this my slow Camino, and I definitely did the last few kilometers at a snail’s pace. Grace handled the trail like a champ and was a great encouragement to me! We got to our albergue (Albergue Borda, 48€ per person for shared room, dinner, and breakfast) by mid afternoon and this place is a gem. We enjoyed drinks on the beautiful terrace with our fellow pilgrims, about 15 of us in all. Half of us are from the US, and others are from Canada, Austria, Lithuania, South Korea, and New Zealand. The pilgrim’s dinner, prepared by Lorenzo, the owner of this albergue, was delicious and has really set the bar high for the Camino Francés.

    We still have a long walk to the summit tomorrow, but not as steep as today’s climb. Lorenzo has assured us that today was the most difficult part, so I’m counting on that being true!
    Foot and leg report: legs are tired, but no serious issues or pains. My feet feel great, so thinking I made the right choice of footwear with my Hokas. We will cross the border into Spain tomorrow    En savoir plus

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  • Traci PedersenCamino FrancésVoyageur
    Sunrise in the Pyrenees
    Happy cows 😊Crossing in to SpainWhat goes up must come down 🙂The highest point in our crossingStarting the long trek down to Roncesvalles.We walked through beautiful forest for several kilometers today.1

    Day 2: Borda to Roncesvalles

    14–15 sept. 2025, Espagne ⋅ ⛅ 72 °F

    What goes up must come down.
    🚶‍♀️⛰️🚶‍♀️
    We had another beautiful day of walking through the Pyrenees today. Borda is about 14 km from Roncesvalles, which is a very manageable distance on flat trails, but we were going either up or down all day today so it was another challenging day. Even though it was hard, it was absolutely beautiful and I had several ‘pinch me’ moments. As always, I have a harder time with the downhills than uphills, so the last 5 km was extra slow for me, but we made it to Roncesvalles in about 6 hours. We were pretty proud of ourselves!
    We’re staying at a cute little albergue called Casa Sabina (86€ for private twin room with breakfast). We had dinner with fellow American pilgrims who live in Italy, and also visited with other pilgrims we met in St.Jean. We’re all kind of on the same pace until we get to Pamplona or Logroño, but after that I have a feeling they will be moving faster than I am.
    Legs and feet are tired, but no serious issues. I stopped a couple of time to put tape on some hotspots. Hoping I don’t suffer with blisters on this Camino!    En savoir plus

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  • Traci PedersenCamino FrancésVoyageur
    We passed through a few pretty towns like this one today. Burguette was especially pretty.Lots of walking through the forest today.11Pilgrims enjoying the river in Zubiri.We were so happy to finally cross the river into Zubiri, where we are staying tonight.

    Day 3: Roncesvalles to Zubiri, 22 km

    15 septembre 2025, Espagne ⋅ ⛅ 75 °F

    Today was just a long day of walking. Not too hard, but not easy either. Our legs are pretty spent after the difficulty of the past two days, so we’re going to bed early and hoping our muscles recover after a good sleep. We are staying at Hostal Gau Txori (66€ for double room). We’re so tired that we only left the room to go down for dinner. No visiting fellow pilgrims for us tonight. 😅
    Foot report: I’m developing a little blister on the bottom of my fourth toe where my toes are kind of pinching together. I love my Hokas, but even though I got a 1/2 size bigger and wore them all summer, I don’t think the toe box is big enough when my feet swell. We’ll see how tomorrow goes. I’m sure I can find good shoes in Pamplona if I need to.    En savoir plus

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  • Traci PedersenCamino FrancésVoyageur
    Starting the walk out of Zubiri.1We walked through many picturesque villages and towns.Beautiful Pamplona11Pamplona CathedralI'm grateful I can see my family on FaceTime when we are apart. ❤️2

    Days 4 & 5 Zubiri to Pamplona & Rest Day

    16–18 sept. 2025, Espagne ⋅ ⛅ 75 °F

    Our walk from Zubiri to Pamplona was much better than we expected after such a hard day on Monday. When we left Zubiri, we seriously contemplated taking a bus or taxi part way because we were so sore. But after walking a couple of miles, we really hit our stride and just kept going all the way to Pamplona. We passed through several nice little towns, but because it was Tuesday there were no cafés open. We didn’t know they were closed on Tuesdays, but luckily we had a great breakfast so we were fine with the snacks we had with us. We made it to Pamplona around 2:00, so we walked 21 km in about 5 hours. The walk was nice, mostly through pine forest and along the Arga River. I loved smelling the pine trees, which reminded me of where I grew up in Louisiana. I reflected on that young girl from Louisiana who never dreamed she would be walking the Camino across the entire north of Spain. Crazy how life works out sometimes.
    We love Pamplona. Grace says it’s the perfect sized town. It’s big enough to have everything you could need, but not so big that it’s overwhelming. The population is around 350,000, but we were mostly in the old town while we were here and it didn’t seem too crowded. There’s an impressive cathedral and museum, and the town is really beautiful with all the picturesque streets and squares. It’s easy to see why Hemingway loved this town.
    We both had pretty tired legs when we got here, so a massage was definitely in order today. I also made the big decision to buy new shoes because my Hokas were pinching my toes too much, especially after 6 or 7 miles of walking when my feet swelled up. I found some Altras with a much wider toe box, so my fingers are crossed that they work out well.
    It’s been really nice having Grace with me to start this journey. She’s been super encouraging and a great walking partner, but she’s leaving Spain tomorrow. I’ll be walking solo for the next 250 miles or so until Amy meets me in Leon in mid-October. I’m feeling a little sad about Grace leaving, but also excited to continue my journey. I’m also feeling a little scared, if I’m being honest, but ready to do it anyway (scared of the challenge and if I can do this, not about my safety, so don’t worry 🙂).    En savoir plus

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  • Traci PedersenCamino FrancésVoyageur
    1Said goodbye to Grace this morning, then boohoo-ed a bit walking out of Pamplona.
    2FaceTime with Baby Evelyn. 🥰PamplonaCafe Iruna, where Hemingway spent a lot of time in Pamplona.Walking out of Pamplona through a pack of teenagers walking to school. 😀There were tons of middle school age students walking the Camino today. What an amazing field trip!It was very hot today!Pilgrim walking the Camino for a loved one.I made it up to Alto del Perdon, the highest point for the next 170 km. Thank the good lord! 😀Nueva York, 5800 kmHot and dry!1Did I mention that it's really hot and dry?

    Day 6: Pamplona to Puente la Reina 24 km

    18 septembre 2025, Espagne ⋅ ☀️ 93 °F

    I said goodbye to Grace this morning 😢. She flew to London to visit friends for the weekend before heading back home. She has a stop in Chicago for one night so she can meet Baby Evelyn, and of course see Hanna and Josh, too. I’m definitely going to miss walking with her. ❤️
    Today’s walk was the longest I’ve ever done, and hopefully the longest I’ll ever do. 😆 I probably should have stopped sooner because the heat was intense. The temp was in the 80s in the morning, which wasn’t that bad, but it climbed into the 90s and hit 93° by the time I got to my hotel. I wouldn’t have pushed so hard, but I want to get to Lagrono for their San Mateo Festival which starts this weekend,, so I have a couple of long days of walking ahead of me.
    I’m too tired to write much tonight, but I can say that although it was super hot without much shade, it was still a good walk.
    Legs and feet are tired but feeling strong. 💪    En savoir plus

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  • Traci PedersenCamino FrancésVoyageur
    Entrance to Puente la Reina
    Interesting statue of Jesus in the chapel.1We met Sheila and Jim from New Zealand our first night in Borda. So fun to run in to them again.1We've seen many Palestinian flags in Spain.People are very vocal about the genocide happening there.11I placed the first pin for Alaska. 😀Cirauqui, another picturesque little town I passed through today.I walked past several vineyards today.I'm guessing they will be harvesting the grapes soon.1My casa rural for tonight.11Bert from the Netherlands has biked across the US more than once. He's a cool cat. 😊

    Day 7: Puente La Reina to Villatuerta

    19 septembre 2025, Espagne ⋅ ⛅ 79 °F

    Today’s walk was a lot easier than yesterday’s, mostly because it wasn’t as long (18 km) and there wasn’t as much elevation gain as yesterday. But it was still sunny and hot and dry. Grace left her sun hoodie with me, which was a lifesaver today.
    I went through several picturesque villages, and also walked through a lot of vineyards today. I didn’t pick any grapes (imagine if every pilgrim did that), but if I see any tomorrow, I might just have to try some. I had local Navarra red wine with my dinner tonight and it was delicious. I’m guessing they will be harvesting the grapes soon. Remember, the reason I’m pushing myself to get further right now is because I want to be in Logroño for their big San Mateo wine festival this weekend. This is a big time for wine celebrations in this entire region of Spain, and I am here for it! 🍇🍷😀
    I walked for about five hours today, and I really think that’s my sweet spot. Anything more than 20 km is really a drag for me. I’m hoping I’ll continue to get stronger as I walk, but I’ve given myself enough time to finish this Camino walking about 20 km a day.
    I’m staying in a lovely village at a nice old farmhouse that is now a hostal/hotel called Casa Rural 643km, 30€ for private room with shared bathroom. It’s clean, quiet, and comfortable. 👍
    Foot and leg report: feeling pretty good. No problems today, although my legs are tired at the end of each day and super tight when I wake up in the mornings. Miraculously, they warm up and I feel strong during my walk. Hope that continues. 😊    En savoir plus

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  • Traci PedersenCamino FrancésVoyageur
    Just a couple of pilgrims along the Way.
    Estella, SpainSo many wineries here 🥰At the famous wine fountain outside Estella, where pilgrims can taste the wine for free.111Another cute little town along the way where I stopped for lunch.My hostel for tonight, Casa Mariela.My humble abode for the night.Old chapel in Torres del RioLooking towards SansolThe Pilgrim's dinner at our hostel

    Day 8: Villatuerta to Torres del Rio

    20 septembre 2025, Espagne ⋅ ☀️ 82 °F

    I walked about 14 or 15 km today to a town called Villamayor, then took a taxi 15 km to Torres del Rio because I knew there was no way I could walk 30 km today. This way I only have 20 km to walk tomorrow to Logrono and I’m kind of on a schedule to get there for the San Matteo festival tomorrow.
    I passed the famous wine fountain this morning and used my shell as a vessel to try the wine, which was pretty good. 😊 My walk was nice today because it wasn’t so hot and sunny, at least in the morning. I’m staying at a hostel tonight in a room with 10 women. It can be hard to get a good rest in a hostel, but the cost was €12 plus tax so it’s worth it to rough it every few days. 😜
    Foot and leg report: Well, they are tired every day but overall not too bad today. The shorter walk helped. I do have a small blister forming on my big toe, but I’m making sure to wrap it with lambswool and I think I’ll be OK. I’ll be ready to go by morning! 😊    En savoir plus

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  • Traci PedersenCamino FrancésVoyageur
    Early start this morning, around 7:30 am
    Viana, SpainCathedral ruins in VianaI was starving when I got to Viana, so I had a tapas lunch at 10:15 AM. 😀So many vineyards today 🍇I tasted both. The green grapes were very tart, but the black one are sweet and delicious!😋1Logroño!

    Day 9: Torres del Rio to Logroño

    21 septembre 2025, Espagne ⋅ ☁️ 61 °F

    I left early from Torres del Rio today because I wanted to get to Logroño for the San Mateo festival, which actually started yesterday and goes on all week. This is their huge annual wine festival for the entire Rioja region, and I want to help them celebrate their wine. 😄 The other reason I left early is because once people start waking up in the hostel, it’s pretty impossible to sleep. I think I heard the first alarm before 6 AM.
    It was cloudy and rainy for a couple of hours during my walk today, but the temperature was cool and a nice reprieve from all the hot days we’ve been having. The countryside was beautiful, with lots of olive groves and vineyards. The first 10 km were pretty challenging with lots of ups and downs, but after a nice break in the beautiful town of Viana, the last 10 km were a piece of cake, mostly flat trails and the rain stopped.
    I crossed the river and walked right in to the center of Logroño to see thousands of revelers enjoying their festival. I’m taking a rest day here so I’ll post more festival photos tomorrow. I enjoyed walking all over the city and had a nice tapas dinner. I’m actually pretty pooped so it’ll be an early night for me, but I hear the festivities go on all night long. I asked the guy at the hotel how late the festivities go tonight, and he said until Friday. 😂    En savoir plus

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  • Traci PedersenCamino FrancésVoyageur
    The Espolon in Logroño
    Many parades in the streets for the San Mateo FestivalThe beautiful cathedral in LogroñoThe cathedral even houses a painting by Michelangelo.A typical tapas barIberian hamI love the Padron peppers!Six degrees of Kevin Bacon 😂😂😂Logrono from the riverWine and tapas event at the EspolonMore San Mateo festivitiesDinner and Rioja wine with fellow pilgrims.

    Day 10: San Mateo Festival in Logroño

    22 septembre 2025, Espagne ⋅ ⛅ 64 °F

    I’m happy I was able to spend an extra day here to enjoy the festival. While I didn’t get to see any grape stomping 😭, I still got to experience a little of the culture here. I loved seeing all the multi-generational families celebrating together. I went to a wine and tapas tasting at the Espolon, the main park in the old town, and had some delicious snacks and wine. I spent a couple of hours just wandering around, watching the parades and musical performances. I needed to do laundry, so I found a lavenderia where I met a fellow pilgrim from California named Susan. She and I chatted while we did our laundry, then decided to meet back up in the evening. We walked over to the bull ring, but weren’t able to get tickets for the bull fights so we just walked along the river back to the old town and found a place to eat. It was around 7:30 and we learned that we couldn’t get dinner anywhere until 8:30 PM at the earliest. There is great food in Spain, but it can be a challenge to get a meal sometimes. I tend to arrive in a town in the afternoon when everything is closed for siesta and I’m usually hungry then. I can sometimes find a snack or at least a Spanish tortilla, but I’m usually too tired to wait up for their late dinner hour. It seems that people stay up pretty late here and things tend to open after 10 in the mornings The pace of life is actually really nice in Spain, but I’m just not used to the hours they keep. Last night, the music didn’t stop until around 5 AM! Thank goodness for my earplugs!
    I also met up with some pilgrims that Grace and I met our first day in France at the start of the Camino. We’ve actually stayed at a couple of the same places so we’ve gotten to know them a little bit. They all served in the Navy together and now they’re retired and doing the Camino. How cool is that?
    Today was a holiday, but I think things open back up tomorrow, so hopefully the music won’t go all night again and I’ll get a good sleep. I have a pretty short walk tomorrow, only about 13 km, so I’m planning on a late start. I’m actually slowing down quite a bit for the next couple of weeks because Amy isn’t meeting me until October 13 in Léon so I have plenty of time to get there.    En savoir plus

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  • Traci PedersenCamino FrancésVoyageur
    Grande copa!
    This squirrel scared the crap out of me when I stopped for a break and a snack today!Another incredible cathedral in this small town, which means it must have been a big town long ago.2Lots of cool old doors here. This place is old!11My 17th C. casa for the night.1My private room with shared bathroom. Very nice hostal.Beautiful breakfast room3My kind of wine glass 🤣

    Day 11: Logroño to Naverette

    23 septembre 2025, Espagne ⋅ ☁️ 63 °F

    After having coffee and watching one last parade go by in the streets of Logrono, I headed out towards Navarrete. Today’s walk was nice and easy, only about 12 km and mostly on paved paths. There was also a bit of walking through forest and vineyards, and I was in Navarette before I knew it. This is a beautiful little town. I can tell it was once grand, but that was long ago and now the old town is crumbling a bit. I think it’s like so many towns like this across Europe, where most of the young people have left and the older people are still here. I’m staying in a lovingly restored old house from the 17th century (Casa Peregrinando, 58€ for private room with shared bath). The owner, Roberto, immigrated from Venezuela 20 years ago. He is an artist and he runs this guest house. Every once in a while, I find a real gem on the Camino and this is one of them.
    I had a delicious and hearty pilgrim’s dinner with another pilgrim staying here, Catherine from Edinburgh. The main course was pork cheeks in red wine, which was tender and delicious!
    I’m super tired this evening, so I’m planning to hit the hay early to be ready for my 17 km walk to Najera tomorrow. Buenos noches!    En savoir plus

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  • Traci PedersenCamino FrancésVoyageur
    Harvesting the grapes 🍇I picked this little bundle off the ground and ate each one. 😄 So delicious & sweet!Even the vines that look dead bear beautiful fruit!1These were the most beautiful vines I've seen. The grape bundles were huge!11I met these sisters a few days ago, then randomly ran into them again today. So Camino!This lady saw me looking for my hostel and walked me all the way there. She was so kind and friendly1Even the tiniest Spanish grocery stores are full of olives!1My pre-dinner snack from the supermercado.I met Marge and Marie from Connecticut at my Hostal. This is their second Camino together .Goat cheese salad with tomato vinaigrette for dinner.

    Day 12: Navarette to Nàjera

    24 septembre 2025, Espagne ⋅ ☁️ 59 °F

    Today’s walk was a little over 17 km, which took me about four hours. Pretty easy walking today, although my legs were tired by the time I got to Nájera. I keep hearing that the walking will get easier and I won’t be so tired each day, but I’m not there yet. 🤣
    I ran into a few pilgrims that I’ve been seeing along the way, which is always fun. We usually just have a quick catch up and then we go our separate ways again. I also met some new pilgrims from Connecticut and Boston today and shared a meal with them, which was nice.
    I’ve been listening to an audiobook while I’m walking, which I’m really enjoying. I’m listening to The Covenant of Water, which is a super long book so it might get me all the way to Burgos. 😀 I do like to spend some time just being with my thoughts while I’m walking, but after a while, it’s nice to have a book or music to pass the time because some walking days get really long!
    Off to bed now to rest up for my 20 km walk to Santo Domingo tomorrow.    En savoir plus

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  • Traci PedersenCamino FrancésVoyageur
    Cathedral in Nàjera
    Pretty house in Azofra, a small village between Nàjera and Santo DomingoVeronica from the Netherlands and I have been crossing paths since Day 1 out of St. Jean.1Hope he made it safely across the path. 😬More vineyard views. I'll be leaving Rioja soon so not sure if the vines will continue.1I've never seen hay bales stacked so high!The long and winding road 🎶Sto. Domingo in the distance. 👏The coolest water fountain for pilgrims to fill their bottles.Beautiful Santo Domingo de la Calzada.Luckily, I got here in time to order a hamburger for lunch before the kitchen closed for Siesta.Even after walking 20 km today, I still climbed to the top of the bell tower. 💪Bell tower views1My cute little room in the attic of this boutique Hostal.El Molino de FlorenI had dinner with Catherine from Edinburgh a few days ago and we met again today.11Buenos noches 😴

    Day 13: Nàjera to Santo Domingo, 20 km

    25 septembre 2025, Espagne ⋅ ☀️ 63 °F

    Today’s walk was long but good, very chilly in the morning but it quickly warmed up to the mid-60’s, perfect walking weather. I usually start shedding layers pretty quickly, first my gloves, then buff, then hat, then jacket, then hiking pants. I can take almost everything off while walking, but I don’t have the kind of pants that zip open over my shoes so I have to sit down and take my shoes off, so I usually try to time that with a snack break.
    Sto. Domingo is a beautiful historic town that dates from at least the 11th C. It’s named for a pious man who helped pilgrims, performed miracles, and essentially built the town. He was eventually sainted, hence the name, Santo Domingo de la Calzada. It’s really interesting to see how some of these old towns are so well preserved, while others are crumbling. It seems to me that they were all equally important at some point back in history, but for reasons, probably having to do with politics and economics, some have thrived and others have not.
    I’ve met up with a few pilgrims who I met the first day, which is always fun. Even though we usually don’t even remember each other‘s name, it’s like seeing an old friend. 😄 I’m staying in a beautiful little family run Hostal, El Molino de Floren (48€ for private room with a bath, which I used for a long soak after my walk!). After dinner I talked with a gentleman from South Africa named Wayne who is on his 4th Camino. He told me that he has eight friends that he met on his first Camino in 2023 and he has been all over the world to visit them. He said they still all talk or text almost daily. Isn’t that crazy?!
    Big walking day tomorrow, 22 km to Belorado. I don’t really know what to expect, but it will be hard for that town to be prettier than this one.    En savoir plus

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  • Traci PedersenCamino FrancésVoyageur
    My first stop of the day in Grañon.
    Can you guess what all these little white dots are? There were thousands of them along the road.1Amazing, huh?12A new landscape...the breadbasket of Spain.1A fellow pilgrim took this photo of meViloria de Rioja, the birth place of Saint Dominic (Santo Domingo).Feels like progress. I left Logroño 3 days ago and I'll be in Burgos in 3 days.Belorado, Spain, my destination for today.Sunflower fields waiting to be harvested for seeds and oil.Cathedral in BeloradoMy dinner date, Catherine the retired librarian from Edinburgh

    Day 14: Sto.Domingo to Belorado, 22km

    26 septembre 2025, Espagne ⋅ ☀️ 50 °F

    What a difference a day makes. I left the La Rioja region today and entered Castilla y León. I’m basically on the edge of the Meseta now and the landscape is completely different from what I’ve seen for the past week. No more verdant vineyards heavy with fruit and beautiful green olive groves. I’m now in the wheat and grain region of northern Spain, with shades of gold as far as the eye can see.
    Today started off cold and overcast and it took me a while to warm up, but by noon I had shed my layers and enjoyed walking in the sun. I was a little apprehensive starting out this morning because I knew I had a pretty long walk ahead of me and I was worried it would be hard. I was shocked to get to the first town only to realize I’d walked 7 km in a blink. The rest of the day went just like that, and I was practically dancing down the trail, listening to my Camino playlist. 🎶 The last 10 km of trail was right along the highway, which was loud and a bit annoying, but even the traffic didn’t bring me down. I’m not sure why I was so happy walking today, but I think it is getting a little easier and it just felt good to be outside. I have a super short day tomorrow, only 11 km, so should be a piece of cake. My next couple of stages were partly determined by where I could get a room, and how I could split up the distance between Logroño and Burgos, where I’ll be on Monday.
    I’m staying in a little hotel right beside the old town called Hotel Jacobeo (69€ for private room w/ bath). As soon as I got here, I put my legs up for about half an hour, which I’ve been doing each day to help my legs and feet recover. After my shower, I did laundry and walked around the town a bit. Of course, I visited the cathedral, which like all of the others in these small towns, leaves me a bit awestruck. I met my fellow pilgrim Catherine from Edinburgh for dinner and enjoyed a delicious Pilgrim’s meal with garlic soup, pork medallions in red wine sauce, lemon mousse, and vino tinto. I was so stuffed I could barely walk back to my hotel. Now I’m off to bed to rest up for tomorrow’s walk. Buenos noches. 🥱    En savoir plus

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  • Traci PedersenCamino FrancésVoyageur
    A cool thing in this little town are the bronze foot and hand prints from famous Spaniards...
    ...like Martin Sheen and Emilio Estevez, who filmed The Way here.Loved all the murals here. What do these two murals make you think of?I've been seeing these Eat Pasta Run Fasta stickers since we started the Camino. 😂I've crossed paths with Mark from Spain several times in the past couple of weeks.He shook an apple tree and at least a dozen apples fell to the ground. They were delicious!I walked most of the morning with Marge and Marie from Connecticut. They are a hoot!Coffee breakAnother beautiful chapel in a tiny town.🙀We passed the cutest little pilgrims from New Zealand today, ages 3 & 5.The mom told me they are walking about 6 km a day. They are staying in my Hostal tonight.Another Eat Pasta Run Fasta sticker 😀My lunch at the local tapas bar.I saw locals drinking this liqueur, so I tried it over ice...sweet and tasty.New Camino friends from Australia and Sweden.Catherine from Edinburgh, Ylva from Sweden, Antheia and Pete from Australia.My cute albergue for tonight.The tiniest attic room, but plenty of space for me. 35€

    Day 15: Belorado to Villafranca

    27 septembre 2025, Espagne ⋅ ☁️ 72 °F

    Today’s walk was nice and easy, only 11 km, although there were a few hills to get my heart pumping. The temp was great for walking, and I spent most of the morning walking with a couple of cool ladies I met a few days ago, Marge and Marie from Connecticut.
    I got to my Albergue pretty early and spent a couple of hours working on reservations for the next week or so. I’m finding that I need to book out at least 3 to 4 days in advance so this is a chore I have to work on every few days. I then met up with Catherine for a drink, and we met some new pilgrims from Australia and Sweden. Some of them have lived in the states before, so we talked a bit about American and international politics. It’s so interesting to talk with foreigners and hear their take on the state of the world.
    Tomorrow’s walk is a little under 20 km, so I’m hoping for an early start. I’ll be in Atapuerca tomorrow, then the historic city of Burgos the next day (and a rest day). There is an archaeological site in Atapuerca with fossil records of the earliest humans in Europe from over 1 million years ago. Wow! 😮 Looking forward to seeing the area and learning more.    En savoir plus

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  • Traci PedersenCamino FrancésVoyageur
    Beautiful sunrise on my walk out of Villafranca.
    Monument at a mass grave site for victims of the spanish civil war.This deer is the first wildlife I've spotted on the trail.Beautiful foliage along the trailFood truck stopSurprise! So happy to see Catherine from Edinburgh and Veronica from the Netherlands at this stop.Angel pointing out his Alaska pin from a previous pilgrim.Veronica was my photographer 😀Every town on the Camino has an impressive chapel or cathedral, this one dating from the 12th C.I walked through beautiful pine forest for most of my walk today.Agès, SpainI love the welcoming Camino spirit in all these villagesA wonderful cafe and bar in Agés SpainEveryone walks here, including the locals nuns.🌻🌻🌻The earliest Neanderthals in Europe have been discovered here in Atapuerca.The quant little village of AtapuercaPintxos with Veronica and CatherineDinner with fellow pilgrims who I met our first day!

    Day 16: Villafranca to Atapuerca 19 km

    28 septembre 2025, Espagne ⋅ ☁️ 66 °F

    Today’s walk was mostly through pine forest, which again reminded me of where I grew up in Louisiana. Even the dirt was as red as the Red River, reminding me of my childhood home. I even saw a deer right off the trail, which is the first wildlife I’ve seen in Spain. There was a light rain all day, which kept the temperature cool so I didn’t mind it at all. I met up with Veronica from the Netherlands a few kilometers in to my walk. I haven’t seen her for a few days, so I was thrilled to run in to her on the trail. I ended up walking most of the day with her, which was a pleasure. I had the best Spanish tortilla I’ve ever eaten in a little café in San Juan de Ortega. That gave me the energy to easily finish the last 6 km. I had dinner tonight with the Navy guys who Grace and I met on our first day back in St. Jean Pied de Port over two weeks ago (which feels like months ago 😲). We’ve been on different stops since Legroño, so it was fun to meet up with them again.
    I had no problem walking 19 km today, so hopefully the 20 km to Burgos will be easy tomorrow. I’m really looking forward to seeing this historic city.    En savoir plus

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  • Traci PedersenCamino FrancésVoyageur
    Started the day with a big climb out of Atapuerca, with beautiful views of surrounding countryside.
    The rocky, craggy landscape on the climb up from Atapuerca. It even looks like cave men lived here.A cute village houseZoom in to the top of the steeple. That's a crazy huge nest!Ran in to the Navy guys on the trail. Glenn's wife just arrived from SC to walk for a few days.Lots of fun statues in Burgos.Burgos Cathedral 🤩The incredible stone work looked like lace. This cathedral is an unbelievable work of art.The main altarSuch beautiful stonework!1One of at least a dozen chapels in the cathedral.Pilgrim meet up at the Cathedral plaza 😀Blessed to have met these beautiful people along the way.The old town of BurgosYay! We ran in to Veronica and she joined us for dinner.Typical tapas barLovely dinner with Camino friends from all over the world.Public art is different here 😂

    Days 17&18: Atapuerca to Burgos

    29 septembre 2025, Espagne ⋅ ☀️ 63 °F

    The walk out of Atapuerca was quite a climb, most of it on craggy rocks that definitely made me think of the early humans who lived in nearby caves one million years ago. Atapuerca is a UNESCO World Heritage site, although there’s not much in this little town and you have to go to the museum in Burgos to see the fossils. It was actually a really nice walk, mostly through farmland, some forest, and cute little villages until I got close to Burgos, then it was walking along loud roads and the outskirts of the city. But the approach into Burgos along the river was really nice and I’m so glad I have a rest day in this historic town.
    I’m in a nice, real hotel, which is a bit luxurious after staying in little guest houses with shared bathrooms. After showering and getting changed, I went straight to the cathedral. I didn’t really know what to expect, and I was blown away by the Burgos Cathedral. It rivals Santiago’s cathedral (might even be more beautiful), and it’s definitely the most grand thing I’ve seen on the Camino Francés so far. Even though it is one of the most beautiful cathedrals I’ve ever seen, a testament to human ingenuity and art, it does bring up mixed feelings about all that wealth in the church through the ages. 🤔
    I had a Camino reunion of sorts with different people I’ve met over the last couple of weeks. I sent messages out to a few people, and we all met in the plaza beside the cathedral for drinks, then we went down the cute little lanes and found a place to have dinner. I was with Philip from Boston, Marge and Marie from Connecticut, Catherine from Edinburgh, Veronica from the Netherlands, and Ernesto from Germany. We even ran in to the Navy guys in one of the little lanes. We shared a wonderful meal and some nice Vino Tinto, and really enjoyed learning more about one another. Most people are leaving Burgos before me so I’m not sure if or when I will see them again, but it was a joyful evening. 😊
    This rest day has been a needed break from daily walking. I did laundry and had time to soak my clothes because they were getting pretty stinky even with daily washing. 😷 I also bought some new deodorant in hopes of mitigating the stink in the future. 😂 I went to a couple of shops looking for gaiters for my shoes to keep the pebbles out, but I’m not having any luck. Maybe I’ll find something in Leon. I also visited the museum of human evolution, a world class museum housing the Atapuerca fossils and much more, and then I got a massage this afternoon. It was heavenly! I also spent time planning the next week and booked my accommodations through Léon. It looks like I’m going to get there 3-4 days before Amy, so I am still working on a plan for how I will use that time. I could either keep walking and then bus back to Léon, or visit some other areas in Spain. Let me know if you have any great ideas.!    En savoir plus

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  • Traci PedersenCamino FrancésVoyageur
    Met up with Veronica a couple of km out of Burgos. We said a quick hello then walked at our own pace
    I saw many bronze statues in Burgos, all representing different parts of the city and its history.Last walk by the cathedral this morning.Very foggy starting out this morning.Rabe, Spain, about 12 km from Burgos. Very nice village.Look! Another huge nest atop the bell tower.Cute village of Rabe de las CalzadesMany nice murals in this town.I stopped in this chapel and received a personal blessing & a loving hug from one of the nuns here.❤️Last stretch in to Hornillos.My albergue for tonight.Lovely to meet up with Veronica again this afternoon. She goes back to the Netherlands in 2 days.Pilgrim's dinner at our albergue, delicious paella with chicken and vegetables.

    Day 19: Burgos to Hornillos de Camino

    1 octobre 2025, Espagne ⋅ ☀️ 68 °F

    Today’s 20 km walk was lovely. I left Burgos at 8:15 and got to Hornillos around 1:15. I stopped a couple of times to eat or take a little break, but walked for about 4 1/2 hours. So I think I’m walking a mile in about 20 minutes. I’m not racing by any means, so I’m good with 3 to 3 1/2 miles per hour. It does take a long time to walk all the way across Spain at that rate, though. 🤣
    I’m in a nice albergue tonight called Hornillos Meeting Point. We had a nice communal dinner with homemade paella, salad, wine, and dessert. I met some new pilgrims tonight, mostly young people in their 20s who are out seeing the world. I sat with a couple of newlyweds tonight and they reminded me a little of Dean and me when we took our first backpacking trip to Europe at the age of 24. It makes me happy to see young people traveling and experiencing the world. 🌍
    Today is my sister’s birthday, so I was able to FaceTime with her. I am grateful for technology that allows me to stay in touch with family and friends!    En savoir plus

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  • Traci PedersenCamino FrancésVoyageur
    Our last dinner with Veronica, who returns home to the Netherlands tomorrow.
    Leaving Hornillis at dawn.Beautiful morning in the Meseta.Camping isn't allowed on the Camino, so this is not a common sight.I met Catherine on the trail just as the sun was rising. It was chilly but quickly warmed up.Ran in to Bert from the Netherlands again, and met Vikram from India.Cat in a box 😸 at our breakfast stop.I had to walk 10 km for this breakfast, but it was worth it!😂😂😂Hermitage of Saint Bridget of SwedenCathedral in Hontanas, SpainLoved this wall of saints and peace makers. 🕊️Ruins of the Convent of San AntónEntering Castrojeriz, where I'm staying tonight.Surprise! I ran in to Jim and Sheila from New Zealand again. Grace and I met them our first day!Statue of Santiago on the altar at the cathedral in Castrojeriz.Our volunteer guide at the cathedral, although he only spoke Spanish. 😂Can you believe this sunset??

    Day 20: Hornillos to Castrojeriz

    2 octobre 2025, Espagne ⋅ ☀️ 75 °F

    I had another nice 20 km walk today. I walked the first 10 km with Catherine, then walked on my own for a while. The day started very chilly, in the 40s, but soon warmed up to the 70s. I didn’t bring a jacket, and so far layering my sweater and sun shirt has been sufficient, but if it gets much colder, I’m going to have to buy a jacket in León.
    Castrojeriz is a Bonitos de Espana, or a beautiful town of Spain. It has a couple of nice old churches, one of which is the tourist information center and a museum now. There is an old castle at the top of the hill that is now in ruins, but I can see that this was once an important, thriving city. It’s pretty quiet nowadays, and I didn’t see any children or families out and about. I think the pilgrims passing through keep a lot of these towns going.
    Catherine and I had a nice dinner with Veronica, who goes back home to the Netherlands tomorrow. She plans to come back next year to finish the Camino. I’ve actually met a lot of people who do the Camino in sections, when they can take a holiday from work. It’s much easier for Europeans to do the Camino that way than it is for those who are coming from far away places like Alaska.
    Tonight we talked about how fortunate we are to be able to walk the Camino. We are healthy enough and have the time and resources to do something like this, and we all felt grateful for it. ❤️    En savoir plus

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  • Traci PedersenCamino FrancésVoyageur
    Cathedral in Castrojeriz. Photo credit to Audrey from Alaska.
    The Jacotrans luggage transport van at my hotel this morning. Cost for luggage transfer: 6€Beautiful CastrojerizEarly morning climb. The picture doesn't really show how high this big hill was!Looking back at the sunrise over Castrojeriz.Lots of walking through the fields of the Meseta today.A delicious food truck breakfast about 7 km into my walk today.I had been hearing there was another pilgrim from AK, and I finally met Audrey from Anchorage.356 km down,424 to go. Almost to the halfway point.Lots of fields of gold todayThe little village I am in tonight, Boadilla, Spain.My albergue had an ice cold pool, perfect for a foot soak!

    Day 21: Castrojeriz to Boadilla

    3 octobre 2025, Espagne ⋅ ☁️ 72 °F

    I don’t know why, but today’s walk was tougher than the past two days, even though it was only 19.3 km, similar to the last two days. It started with a long climb up a big hill, so maybe that took it out of me from the start. I didn’t have the best sleep, so maybe that’s why. All I can say is I was thrilled when I got to my casa rural today! I’m in a little town called Boadilla del Camino and from what I can tell, there are more pilgrims here than villagers. There are a couple of nice albergues and a hotel, which I am in: Hotel Rural en el Camino, 50€ for private room w/ en suite. There’s even a nice pool, which was freezing, but made a nice ice bath for my sore, tired feet and legs. 😀
    There was a very nice communal pilgrim’s dinner tonight for the people here at the hotel and in the albergue. The staff in these places is generally quite small, just a handful of people, and they do an amazing job hosting so many pilgrims. They really are a big part of what makes the Camino so special.
    I’m hoping I get a good sleep tonight because I have a 24 km walk tomorrow. I’m getting close to the halfway point!    En savoir plus

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  • Traci PedersenCamino FrancésVoyageur
    Just me and a fellow pilgrim enjoying a rest in the sun.
    Beautiful early morning light on the Canal de Castilla on the way to Fromista.1Locks at Fromista1Another humongous nest atop that tower.Approaching Villálcazar, Spain1My view for most of my 24km walk today.Peregrino welcoming us to Carrion de Los Condes where I stayed tonight.My tiniest room yet. 😂Main square in Carrion.Dinner with the birthday girl Catherine and Jay & Sabina from Kentucky.Late night show in the square.A short history of Carrion de los Condes.

    Day 22: Boadilla to Carrion de Los Conde

    4 octobre 2025, Espagne ⋅ ☀️ 77 °F

    Today’s walk was 24.3 km, but I thought it was easier than yesterday’s walk. It was flat and I also had a good sleep, so it wasn’t too hard of a day. I will say that my legs and ankles were pretty tired by the time I got here, though. The first 5 km was along a nice canal lined with trees, but the rest of today’s walk was along the road and the scenery really didn’t change much. I listened to my book for a while, then put music on, which always puts a little pep in my step. It was a pretty nice walking day. 😀
    I was told that I could go to a monastery to hear nuns singing at 6 PM tonight, which sounded nice so I went. I ended up stuck in a church for almost an hour. The service was completely in Spanish, and I didnt want to get up and leave during the middle of mass, so I sat through the entire service. 😂
    After I finally escaped, I met Catherine for drinks and dinner. Today is her 73rd birthday. She’s an inspiration on the Camino! We joined some other pilgrims who we’ve been seeing the past few days, Jay and Sabina, a fun couple from Kentucky.
    I’m in the tiniest room tonight, with just enough room for a twin bed, a sink, and a stool. But it’s clean and has its own bathroom, and only costs 30€, so I’m happy with it.
    After I was all tucked in to my tiny room for the night, I heard some music outside. I remembered that the lady who checked me in said there was something going on in the Square at 10 PM. I’m usually sleeping by then so I didn’t pay much attention, but I decided to slip my sandals on and run downstairs. I saw dozens of people walking towards a corner of the square and saw lights being projected onto the wall. It ended up being a little light show, then a history of this area since the discovery of St. James in Santiago. I think I was the only foreigner there, and it was really touching to see all of these towns people come out for the short show. What a beautiful community.
    All in all, a good day on the Camino!    En savoir plus

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  • Traci PedersenCamino FrancésVoyageur
    Three peregrinos in Carrion de Los Condes.
    I was surprised to see Jim and Sheila from New Zealand again this morning. Lovely visit!Happy to see a food truck on my walk today, as there were no towns for 17 km.My view for most of the day. The Meseta seems to go on forever.Wow! I like this km marker!More Meseta.Happy to see this little village where I'll be staying tonight.

    Day 23: Carrion to Calzadilla delaCueza

    5 octobre 2025, Espagne ⋅ ⛅ 61 °F

    Today’s walk was my longest stretch with no villages or towns for 17 km. It was actually a really nice day, clear but cool, so I enjoyed the walk. It did get a little long and monotonous at times, but overall it was a good walking day.
    I’m staying in another tiny village that only has one albergue and one hotel that are open. There were a few townspeople at the café, but I definitely saw more pilgrims than locals today. It was nice to get here early and have a good rest in the afternoon. Tomorrow I have a 22 km walk to Sahugun, which is officially the halfway point according to the guide books. However, I saw a kilometer marker today that said 400 km to go, so I might already be halfway. I think I’ve walked around 250 miles so far. Crazy, huh?!!    En savoir plus

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  • Traci PedersenCamino FrancésVoyageur
    Up early with the farmers this morning.
    Spotted two deer early this morningI give every pilgrim statue a high five when I pass. ✋Mural of the movie The Way.The Santa Cruz monastery where I'm staying tonight.The Santa Cruz monastery where I'm staying tonight.Shopping for dinner. Some of the Spanish wine is less expensive than water!Vikram cooking vegi's for our communal dinner.This is why I bring my own clothesline!Yummy Korean chicken and bok choy from fellow pilgrims.Attending mass with Vikram from India and Catherine from Scotland.Pilgrim's blessing at the monastery.Evening vespers by the nuns after the pilgrims' mass.Pilgrim's dinner with food contributed by everyone.One of the Marist priests at the monastery.1Three pins from Alaska, but only one from the Aleutians!

    Day 24: Calzadilla to Sahagun

    6 octobre 2025, Espagne ⋅ ☀️ 68 °F

    I had a nice 22.4 km walk today. Even though today’s walk was longer than yesterday‘s, it was more enjoyable. There was a little more variety in the landscape, and I passed through several small towns, so it didn’t seem that long. I am in Sahagun, which is the official halfway point of the Camino Francés from St. Jean to Santiago. Woohoo! I’m staying in a monastery run by Marist priests, a brotherhood that aims to practice the virtues of Mary-simple, modest, and humble action. Along with the nuns and a handful of volunteers, they run this albergue (private room with bathroom for €24).
    After showering and washing my clothes, I had some snacks in the courtyard. I shared my sangria with a couple of Korean pilgrims, who in turn shared their meal with me. I definitely got the better end of that deal! 🤣
    In the evening, I attended the pilgrim’s mass, which was partly in English, so that was much nicer than the last mass I attended. 😀 The priests ended with a special blessing for all of the pilgrims who were present. It was actually a very special experience and I’m glad I was there.
    For our communal dinner, the volunteers provided the first course of lentil soup and we all provided the rest of the food, which was basically what we could get at the nearby supermercado. It was a hodge podge dinner, but no one left hungry! After dinner, we were invited to put a pin in the map showing where we are from. There were two pins for Alaska, but none from the Aleutian Islands. 😉
    Staying at this monastery has been one of my cooler Camino experiences, definitely one I will remember!    En savoir plus

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  • Traci PedersenCamino FrancésVoyageur
    1My Halfway Compostela from Santuario de la Virgen Peregrina.
    Quick stop for fresh squeezed orange juice and pintxos. Cost: €3. The highlight of today's walk. 😂

    Day 25: Sahagun to El Burgo Ranero

    7 octobre 2025, Espagne ⋅ ☁️ 75 °F

    I got a very late start today because I wanted to go to a convent that provides a certificate for the halfway point on the Camino Francés. They were supposed to open at 9:30, but we’re on Spanish time so it was more like 9:50. 🤣 It’s a cool certificate so I’m glad I got it, but it meant I wasn’t on the trail until around 10 AM. The day started off quite cold, in the low 40s, but it warmed up quickly. It ended up being a hot day without a lot of shade, and the entire 18 km was beside a road (though not a busy one). Needless to say, I was dragging by early afternoon. I’ve also developed a blister on my right heel, so I had to stop a couple of times to tend to it, and I walked pretty slowly. It was just one of those days that wasn’t a lot of fun, so I was extra happy to get to my hotel. The only place I could find to stay is a truck stop with a hotel attached, so there’s definitely no Camino spirit here. However, the room is clean and comfortable, and every night can’t be in a charming guest house or monastery. 😆
    I spent the afternoon working on Camino planning after León, which is coming soon. I’ll be in León in two days, and I’m definitely looking forward to some rest time.

    A lot of people skip the Meseta because they think it’s long, hot, monotonous, boring, and lacking the infrastructure that the other sections have. I would say that it can be those things (and I’ve got no judgment whatsoever for skipping ahead), but I’m glad I’ve walked it. It’s a big part of this Camino for me, and it certainly has parallels to life, so there are important lessons to be learned. Some people talk about the Camino in terms of body, mind, and soul. They say that the first third is physically challenging, the second third is mentally challenging, and the last third is the joy of the Camino. I don’t know if that’s my experience exactly, but there’s definitely some truth to it.    En savoir plus

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  • Traci PedersenCamino FrancésVoyageur
    El Burgo Ranero, Spain
    Full moon in the morning 🌝Big bird nest!A bodega in Reliegos, a small town we passed through today.Another cool mural along the way.I've been crossing paths with Shannon and her husband Tom from New Hampshire for the past few days.Can't believe how far I've come on this Camino!So funny to see this famous NY picture in the laundromat of this small Spanish town!Tired pilgrims resting at the square.Dinner with Camino friends from Portugal, Estonia, Hungary, USA, & Scotland.

    Day 26: ElBurgo to Mansilla de las Mulas

    8 octobre 2025, Espagne ⋅ ☁️ 72 °F

    Today’s walk was much better than yesterday’s, thank goodness. I walked the first 13 km with Catherine, which was really nice. I’m using Compeed on my heel blister, and while it’s still tender, it’s not so painful that I can’t walk. I have 20 km to go tomorrow, then I’ll have a break in León and hopefully enough time for the blisters to heal.
    When I was doing my laundry, I chatted with a French family who are doing the Camino by bicycle. It was a grandma and grandpa, their daughter, and grandchild who looked to be about 18 months old. The toddler was pulled in one of those bicycle trailers, and the mom said she was doing great. I have no idea how far they have traveled, but they were impressive! I also met a couple the other day who were walking with their 3 1/2 month old baby. I can’t imagine walking with a new baby the age of Evelyn!
    I had dinner tonight with old and new Camino friends. Tomorrow will be my last day with most of the people I’ve met on the Camino because I’m going to take a few extra days in León. I’m sad to part with them, but looking forward to a few rest days!    En savoir plus

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  • Traci PedersenCamino FrancésVoyageur
    Beautiful misty morning as we left Mansilla de las Mulas.470 down, 329 to go!!!León in the distance. Lots of city walking today.First glimpse of León cathedralAnother cool pilgrim mural.Arrival in LeónMy room at Hostal San Martin in the old town of León.I joined Vikram's private tour of the cathedral, which is an amazing example of gothic architecture.The stained glass at León Cathedral is stunning!Imagine when these cathedrals were covered in their original paint, little of which survives today.I don't really know what this guy was doing in the cathedral museum, but he was a little spooky. 💀The choir made of intricately carved chestnut wood.Dinner with Camino friends. We will all be going our separate ways soon, but so lucky to meet here.Pilgrims from Alaska, Scotland, India, Kentucky, New Hampshire

    Day 27: Mansilla de las Mulas to León

    9 octobre 2025, Espagne ⋅ ☀️ 64 °F

    We got an early start today and were rewarded with a beautiful, misty morning. It was nice to walk with Camino friends for a while, then we split off after a few kilometers. After 10-12 km, I basically started hitting the outskirts of León. I considered taking a bus through the industrial/commercial area, but after a 25 minute wait, I figured the bus wasn’t coming, so I just kept walking all the way in to the old city of León. It’s actually fun walking into a city after you get past the long slog of the outskirts. As I meandered through the old streets following the shells embedded in the stone, I got to an opening and looked up to see the amazing León Cathedral. As I stood gawking at the cathedral, I heard someone call my name. It was Phillip from Boston, who I met pretty early on but haven’t seen since Burgos. Meeting fellow pilgrims really is a special part of walking the Camino.
    I was starving when I got here and I couldn’t check in to my hotel until 2 o’clock, so I found a great little restaurant and had a huge hamburger for lunch. I’ve also discovered cerveza y limon, or beer with lemonade, and they are delicious and refreshing! I’ve actually been drinking them since I got to Germany, into France, and now in Spain. It’s called a Radler and they have them on tap in most bars.
    After a little rest, I met Vikram at the cathedral for a tour he set up. I didn’t really know what to expect inside, but I was blown away by all of the stained glass, especially for such an old gothic cathedral (13th C). It kind of reminded me of a cross between Notre Dame and Sainte-Chapelle in Paris. It was a large cathedral with rose windows like Notre Dame, but it had much more stained glass like Sainte-Chapelle. Our guide said the architect was inspired by the French cathedrals, so that explained the similarities. All I can say is that I could have spent hours just looking at the windows and imagining what a medieval pilgrim would have thought walking in to that place hundreds of years ago. They must have been blown away!

    I met up with Audrey from Alaska after the cathedral tour. It’s so crazy that I’ve met another Alaskan here. She is also a day ahead and leaving tomorrow, but perhaps we’ll meet again in Santiago.
    My evening ended with a lovely dinner with Camino friends at an Italian restaurant beside the cathedral. We are all looking forward to a rest day tomorrow!    En savoir plus

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