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A Week on the Trent and Mersey
  • Sarah and Andrew Guthrie
May – Jun 2024

A Week on the Trent and Mersey

A 8-day adventure by Sarah and Andrew Read more
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  • Trip start
    May 25, 2024
    Sarah and Andrew GuthrieTravelerA Week on the Trent and Mersey
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    Our Journey Begins.

    May 25, 2024 in England ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    Our big holiday adventure for the year brings us back to the water and a week long trip down the Trent and Mersey. We arrived at the hire base after lunch, just as the cleaner had finished getting everything ready.
    Festival Park Marina is on the site of the National Garden Festival which was held in 1986. Before that it was a steel works with blast furnaces. Directly opposite the marina is the site of the Etruria Works. Opened in 1769 this was the Wedgwood factory until around 1940 when the works were moved to their present site.

    As we have been with Black Prince before the hand over was relatively brief and we were on our way by 14:45, on our boat Erin. Heading south from the marina, Etruria Junction is just 10 minutes away, the left hand branch is the start of the Caldon Canal. We stuck with the Trent and Mersey and with it our first lock and the first of five in quick succession! Also at the junction was our first taste of Potteries architecture, the Etruscan Bone Mill. Sarah resumed her role as chief lock wheeler while Edward enjoyed standing on deck with the skipper.
    The scenery through this part of Stoke-On-Trent is distinctly urban and not somewhere we would like to stop for any length of time. The railway passes overhead the canal on a low, wide bridge which caused the skipper to duck!
    A couple of bottle kilns sit by the side of the canal, a reminder of the industry for which this area is best known. After the hard work of the locks Edward and Sarah relaxed in the well deck, from which Edward fed some geese.

    The canal winds its way out of Stoke and past the site of Hem Heath Colliery, the third deepest in the UK until its closure in 1993. It is just beyond here, on the outskirts of Trentham, that we moored for the night.    Read more

  • Sarah and Andrew GuthrieTravelerA Week on the Trent and Mersey
    1Skipper and crew.1A heron caught a fish as the boat passed!

    Pottery and lockery.

    May 26, 2024 in England ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    We cast off this morning around 9:30. The weather forecast this morning was for heavy rain and so we had waterproofs at the ready. In the end the weather was quite sunny!

    The modern Wedgwood factory stands a short distance from the canal on the other site of Trentham. Josiah Wedgwood saw the benefit of the canal to his business and persuaded the designers to build it through Stoke and right past his original factory. Completed in 1777, the canal brought raw materials in and importantly, finished goods out. The slow smooth ride allowed safe delivery of the delicate pottery around the country and around the world. These days everything is moved by lorry, but that allows us to enjoy the canal in relative peace.

    We moored up outside the factory and walked to the visitor centre. After a pleasant cup of tea and cake (or pancakes for some of us) we walked the shop and then around the V&A museum. At this point we realised our tea cups from earlier retail for around £50 each! After lunch we set off once again and tackled the remaining 8 locks for the day (there was just one earlier as we passed through Trentham).

    The forecast for this afternoon was accurate and we faced biblical rain and hail showers. Both skipper and crew got so wet we may as well have jumped in the canal! Edward helped with most locks today, he’s thoroughly enjoying his time aboard.

    Passing through Stone the large Joule’s Brewery is another industry to sit on the side of the canal. The now closed large doors still evident of a time when beer was transported by boat. One may be forgiven when passing the boat yard in the town centre that this is just another yard. This is in fact the base of the Canal Cruising Company - the pioneer of canal boating holidays.

    The Star pub pre-dates the canal by 200 years and holds the record for the number of floors at different levels in a single pub. Here we had an audience as the last lock of the day was effectively in the pub beer garden!

    After this we stopped at the water point where the skipper got another drenching from the tap. The crew went to explore the floating market. Dozens of canal traders were moored here for the weekend and by the time we arrived all but one or two had shut up shop for the day.

    We are moored for the night just south of Stone.    Read more

  • Sarah and Andrew GuthrieTravelerA Week on the Trent and Mersey

    Carry on Cruising

    May 27, 2024 in England ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    We were up with the lark, or rather pigeon, and Andrew was practically knocking on the door of M&S for a quick shop before we set off for the day. Casting off for the day around 09:10 we have left the high density of locks behind us, until our return. With just 5 locks today with large breaks in between we spent most of the day cruising.

    The first landmark of note was the Aston Marina, a vast expanse of water with hundreds of boats - one of the biggest in the country. The gap between locks allowed the skipper to be served with tea and soda bread, while the younger crew member sat in the well deck and watched Peter Rabbit on Grandma and Grandpa’s portable DVD player!

    At the second lock of the day a crew heading the other way offered to work the lock and this gave Sarah a new experience; riding on the boat as it descended! A little way along we passed under Salt Bridge, the most ornate on the T&M, built to a high standard for the benefit of the local gentry. It would seem that nearby Weston-on-Trent still contains those with money, with some large canal side properties and well kept gardens. At the lock on the far side we encountered a vintage boat heading the other way. The well seasoned skipper demonstrating his rather unorthodox way to lower paddles, without the use of a windlass! I’m not sure the CRT would approve. We stopped just beyond here for lunch, just as the heavens opened having been lovely all morning. Had we stopped a few minutes earlier we would have stayed dry all day!

    After a lazy start to the afternoon we resumed the cruise which featured just a couple of locks. Sarah and Edward elected to walk along the towpath between the two and crossing over the bridge at Great Haywood junction. This is where the Staffs & Worcester Canal joins the T&M and is a hive of activity, both on and off the water. We moored up just around the corner a short distance from Haywood lock and with views of the grounds of Shugborough Hall. It is a lovely still evening, but the forecast for tomorrow is not good!    Read more

  • Sarah and Andrew GuthrieTravelerA Week on the Trent and Mersey
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    There and Back Again

    May 28, 2024 in England ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    Our only lock for the day came early in our journey, a jigsaw worthy scene and, as is often the case, friendly boaters heading the other way. The rain was set in for the morning but spirits were not dampened.

    A few old large houses overlook the canal with rather an air of Toad Hall to them, but Toad, Mole, Ratty and Badger did not make an appearance today.

    The canal follows a much more wiggly route with many blind bends. Having met relatively few oncoming boats over the last few days of course today would be the day with the most traffic. The skipper had to manoeuvre the boat to allow numerous others to pass the other way, inevitably at the narrowest points.

    Passing over the Brindley Bank aqueduct, while it may lack some of the splendour of the Llangollen aqueducts, it is still an amazing feat of engineering given its age. A sharp bend took us into the outskirts of Rugeley and past some interesting and varied gardens. On the other side of the town we stopped to fill up with water and then for lunch.

    Shortly after our lunch stop we encountered the remains of Armitage Tunnel. The roof was taken off in the 70s due to subsidence, but it is still a tricky, dark, narrow section. With no clear view of the other end, it is necessary to send crew forward to check that the way is clear before radioing back to the skipper. A short while later we passed the Armitage Shanks factory with the smell of fired porcelain in the air.

    On the other side of Armitage it was time to wind and thankfully no other vessels appeared to complicate matters. Back past the factory, through the narrows and into Rugeley we were all rewarded with the sight of a kingfisher shooting past the boat and several times shooting out in front of the boat as we neared its perch. A little too fast and small to photograph.

    We moored for the night just before the aqueduct.    Read more

  • Sarah and Andrew GuthrieTravelerA Week on the Trent and Mersey
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    Skipper in Training

    May 29, 2024 in England ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    Another early start this morning saw us cast off a little before 9. Just a few minutes later we were crossing the Brindley Bank Aqueduct. On a long straight section Edward had a go at the tiller, under the very close supervision of the skipper.

    Just one lock this morning, and our first up hill, before we moored just south of Great Haywood. We walked across the unusual Essex Bridge over the river Trent towards Shugborough Hall, getting there just after opening time at 11am.

    Shugborough Hall, now a National Trust property, was built in 1693 by William Anson and remained in the ownership of the Anson family until 1960 when upon the death of his father the 5th Earl of Lichfield, Thomas Anson, donated the house to the NT in lieu of death duties.

    Returning to the boat for lunch we were a bit perturbed to find 4 boats queuing for the next lock - potentially a wait of about an hour. Thankfully during lunch no further boats passed us and so we simply had to wait for a boat on the way down. We topped up with water at the junction with the Staffs & Worcs Canal, which was much quieter than when we passed on Bank Holiday Monday.

    A further 3 locks followed before we pulled up for the night just short of the village of Burston.    Read more

  • Sarah and Andrew GuthrieTravelerA Week on the Trent and Mersey
    1A property which once featured on Cruising the CutTurnover bridgeEdward did some writing and a picture after supper.

    Taking Flight

    May 30, 2024 in England ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    Our overnight stop was very peaceful with just the sound of the birds and cows nearby. After casting off this morning we had a bit of a stretch before our first lock of the day. Edward of course wanted another go at the tiller and now frequently sits with his hand behind the skipper’s.

    We stopped in Stone and were lucky enough to get the mooring right next to M&S. After a quick shop we were straight into lock routine, with a slight delay as we were following another boat. This was the first of four very close locks (the Stone Flight) raising us a total of 39 ft 4 inches. The friendly crew of the boat behind us helping us up the flight. It pays for crews to help each other in locks as it also speeds up their passage. In the second lock of the flight a crew member from the descending boat opened the gate paddle a little too soon and quickly for this skipper’s liking - sending a raging torrent of water into the lock chamber and our boat bobbing about like a cork!

    At the top of the flight we stopped for lunch and a recharge before the next flight of four locks at Meaford, another 32 ft 5 inches. This time with no outside help the skipper assisted with some paddles and gates when he could. Our experience of these locks was considerably drier than on the descent!

    A bit of a cruise followed and saw us moor up a short distance from the Plume of Feathers pub, owned by Neil Morrissey, and just before the Wedgwood factory. We have been entertained this evening by geese coming to the offside window and waiting expectantly for food!    Read more

  • Sarah and Andrew GuthrieTravelerA Week on the Trent and Mersey
    Edward's favourite vantage point to see the power of the water
    Our last lockInside a bottle kiln

    Paddles and Potteries

    May 31, 2024 in England ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    This morning we had a steady stream of boats passing us heading north and only one heading south. This included a couple of fairly large ‘working boats’, old historic boats with large cargo holds at the front a small boatman’s cabin at the back and a beautiful sounding engine. Our first landmark this morning was the Wedgwood factory, just a minute after departure. A short while later we came to Trentham Lock (11 ft 11 inches) and a queue of boats! A working boat which had passed us a fair while earlier was chugging at the gates longing to be let in and another boat sat on the lock landing in front of us. Edward made friends with the 6 year old girl from the boat in front, Mia, (we think they live aboard with two adults, two young girls and two dogs!). He and Sarah helped with the gates and paddles for their passage.

    By the time we made it into the chamber the best part of an hour had elapsed and a further three boats had joined the queue behind us. A damaged paddle gear complicated matters but as often happens a couple of crews behind us assisted and we were then soon on our way.

    A steady cruise followed and we passed where we moored on our first night, not quite as peaceful as the building site opposite was in full swing. Moving through into Stoke-on-Trent the beauty of the canal slipped away behind us and we were faced with more and more graffiti, concrete and litter. At Stoke Bottom Lock, the first of five in the Stoke Flight (50 feet), we once again encountered a queue and the boats assumed the same order as before. This gave opportunity for Edward to play with Mia for a while. When it was our turn in the lock we were joined by the same crew as before. The lady from the boat behind said they had set off from Oxford, heading to Skipton to visit grandchildren!

    Eventually we made it to the top and bade farewell to our assistants. We passed the Black Prince base and carried on North for half an hour before winding, much to Sarah’s relief as she did not fancy the Harecastle Tunnel! We moored at Middleport Pottery and explored their heritage trail, looking in buildings detailing the process which we all found interesting. Some views may be familiar to long term viewers of The Great Pottery Throw Down, as this is where it used to be filmed. Sadly we didn’t see the actual room.

    Our return leg was pleasant in the late afternoon sunshine. We find ourselves just 5 minutes cruise away from the Black Prince base, moored with other boats. We have an early start to get our boat back by 9am, but at least we don’t have far to travel!    Read more

  • Sarah and Andrew GuthrieTravelerA Week on the Trent and Mersey
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    Back at Base

    June 1, 2024 in England ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    We made the last few minutes of our canal journey as we started, with all of us on deck. We had a wave goodbye from Mia’s family as we passed their boat. When we moored up we had travelled a total of 58 miles, down and up 20 locks (so 40 lock operations) and we had moored 19 times, not counting locks or water points.

    We handed back the boat on time and loaded the car. With it having sat under a tree for a week the birds had made rather a mess, this provided some entertainment for Andrew and Edward this afternoon in cleaning.

    Before leaving Stoke-on-Trent we visited the Emma Bridgewater Factory. In addition to the factory there is a decorating studio, a main shop, an outlet shop and a cafe. We all enjoyed a cooked breakfast which set us up for the journey home, served on Emma Bridgewater crockery of course.

    We have enjoyed our holiday, we now need a week to recover! It has been hard work in many respects but a rewarding experience. Edward has thoroughly enjoyed himself. When asked what his favourite part was he replied “everything”!    Read more

    Trip end
    June 1, 2024
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