Oriñon

Day 11
Long long day, too many impressions to note now. Decided to do the Big Hike, up the mountain instead of along the coastal shortcut; and was alone all day. It was glorious. Glorious.Meer informatie
Day 11
Long long day, too many impressions to note now. Decided to do the Big Hike, up the mountain instead of along the coastal shortcut; and was alone all day. It was glorious. Glorious. GLORIOUS.
Lemon tree by the water fountain in Otañes; I took one to suck on and its sour-sweet made me feel really bright, buzzing, just 'yes!'.
Santullan: stopped for a drink and bite at a bar, got chatting with a local who had studied in the US, met and married a Japanese lady there, two adult children now, etc etc, English teacher ... when I went to pay my bill I found he had already taken care of it!
The woodland after Cerdigo, suddenly wild and rough after hours of made up paths, suddenly pretty, and intriguing, a distinctly ancient feel - tingling, almost - after hours of new towns and buildings and streets; suddenly right at the ocean, vast and really really alive. Perfect, perfect.
What is this? Might this be joy?
Courage to continue, Anna! Welcomed at the hostel with homemade soup and meat and fruit, with only 3 others, French, Jacques Joël, Bernard. For whom I had to translate.
I'm really tired. 39km. Longest ever walk in a day.Meer informatie
Day 12
Great fun with the French trio; we walked together all the way here, over the hills and down to the beach. At one point I lagged behind to take my fleece off, and as the path was at the side of the A road I decided to get my little fife out and have another go at playing as I walk. (I found playing in the forest too disturbing to the environment). The breathing is hard!
They were apparently completely delighted with me: they stopped, waited, got their phones out and filmed me as I passed! So we continued together the rest of the way, singing and whistling tunes and them letting me in to their in-jokes, all in French don't you know, great fun, great fun.
A hot sun but cold wind on the wide wide beach. Didn't swim. Lazy time, because I wanted to stay at the convent hostel and join in the Mass and Pilgrims' Blessing. Very moving, no particular reason, just something real and raw and poignant for me.
Dunno what's happening in me except that I know that to be here doing this is simple and good. I used to ask “where are you?”, but now it's perhaps “let me stop a moment to see you here”.
The painting is lagging behind, which I'm disappointed about; but it's what is, so there's no point in fussing.Meer informatie
Day 13
A hot hot day for the first time, a proper swelter.
The hostel is AWESOME. A long-standing community of/for pilgrims, initiated by Ernesto who now at 86 likes to reminisce (ramble) to the visitors, in Spanish, before dinner; tonight over 50 of us. A real highlight of the trip, unforgettable. It's a 'Donativo' , which means it's free but they invite contributions, of course, and by it's worth a lot more than many commercial offers . A shared meal with wine, loud chatter in lots of languages, a lively, warm buzz ... just like it should be. Reminds me of summer youth camps, and church weeks away. A really happy place. This is how the world should be!Meer informatie
Day 14
Feeling a bit sick. Beautiful day, very very tired.
Let it be what it is... Early bed
ReizigerGlad you've had a good day despite the exhaustion. Hope you sleep well and have an easier day tomorrow, Anna.
Wanted to reflect on the shift I experienced yesterday, after Güemes. It started so happily. Walking off alone but caught up by the four youngsters who loved my flute-ing, and fell into conversation with Fabio (Italy, Torino/ Nottingham PhD in atom physics/ San Sebastian, daughter Gaia), Daniel (Stuttgart/ grief over unborn child). I separated off when they took a long break to chat with an old friend; French older man (the translator in the pic) talked about Camino starting points in France and the Gîte/food experiences.
Glorious cliffs above thundering waves.
Long, long beach! Rain! Dry with my umbrella, and absolutely content, singing. Childhood songs. Glad that I live, am I. Morning has broken. Antonio, Antonio!
Lois, 30 today.
Boat to Santander, lovely Belgian couple with trolley for breathing apparatus.
Cathedral.
Soup.
I'm loved. Hold my heart open, holding courage to not shut down again. Luca. 31 years.
Tears. Thankyou, strong tree.
Valle verde de Peña. Rockface ... hard, yet crevices permit flowers to grow, and it feels like mutual gratitude. I support you, you adorn me. Sweet.
KyeSoo trudges past, we leapfrog each other; no chat, but our shared smiles encourage me.
Lonnnnng last section ... rather unfriendly reception. Nice rooms, only 5 beds. Stumbled on a step.
Video call with Luca. My husband. He's lonely at weekends. Yeah. I'm glad.
A bit bleak until the French trio comes in and it's all gladness.
Why didn't Jacques offer me wine?!
Pierre, in the dorm: "what does pilgrimage means to you?". He smiles at the question. “C’est spirituel, et c’est le moment present”. Talked little but both sensed the longing and searching as well as the not-like-most-people experience.
Some under-the-duvet tears, and sleep.Meer informatie
Day 15
Plodded rather today, realising that tiredness doesn't trump hopes, intentions, plans, but does change how I experience them.
Some special pleasures along the way: bumping into the Italians again, Fiorella and Sergio (they took the train after a night in Santander and so caught up), so we walked together for an hour or two. They are great fun. Nuts, I think it's called. Probably not literally translatable! I said to Fiorella at the start that I was feeling fragile: “il mio cuore comincia a svuoltarsi” and in the saying of it realized it's the right expression, though it took me by surprise.
Discovering I understand loads of Spanish, gradually getting my ear and my brain in trim. Hooray hooray! But I had to laugh: when trying to use speech translation to understand the menu, it seems I was being offered baby squid stuffed with kangaroos. Didn't bother to find out what it take was though, because I don't like squid in any case. My accent needs improving, that's for sure.
Arriving at my Big Treat For Today: Santa Ana Casa Rurale, an actual hotel! A little off route, but I love the name and isn't that enough reason to choose it? So nice to have private space again after 2 weeks of sharing rooms with 1 other or with 10 or 20. I ate a proper lunchtime meal, slept, painted and wrote and meditated ... and had chocolate cake and read fairy tales in Spanish before bed. Great way to learn.
Good day, almost all alone. Lovely.Meer informatie
Day 16
Today I made a voice note as I began to walk in the morning, just describing what I saw around me. I've transcribed it here, to give you a taste of what it's like to walk. Imagine this spoken. (I reckon I sound like Clare Balding in Radio 4's Ramblings).
Cantabria is really REALLY green, and it's so ... so pleasant, it's just a wide open spread.
Way over to the left in a huge long chain are mountains, with snow on the top of the mountains
... and closer to me here is just a bowl of green ... and gently rolling hills
... rolling is a good word for it ... it's a depth of rolling like the undulating ocean
... some of the fields are cut for hay already, which seems to me ever so early in the year ... there are smaller and bigger houses dotted about, which all seen to be cared for, improved ... although there are some that are fallen down, dilapitated.
And this morning the sky is blue ... blue blue blue , pale, bright, deep, blue, with gentle clouds ... although they are more grey in the distance ... it's gonna be a scorcher of a day.
It's blissful really.
Walking round the other side of the flat mountain over there yesterday, with the industrial area and boatyards, and the estuary, was dry, and barren, quite ugly ... and arriving at Santa Ana was just .. just lovely ... it felt kind. The two ladies at the desk were polite, but the man was really kind, the one who spoke hesitant German ... that was really warm and pleasant, and all the people that worked there were attentive and sweet; that really helped make it a restful thing.
I'm going through cow land, it smells of cow,
... and it's vibrant and verdant in the hedgerows ... speedwell, wild garlic, speedwell, red dead nettle, buttercups, dandelion, mint, fennel, little-robin ... so, farmland, but soooo pretty, the birds singing as well
... it feels simple ... simple and comfortable.
(*AND, I later added: red, white and pink clover, dog daisy, sorrel, plantain, daisy, vetch, knapweed, horsetail, catsear, spurge, rape, hedge bedstraw, lesser trefoil, rockrose, stinging nettle, spearwort, aquilegia, curly dock, white borage, and occasionally blue borage, lords' and ladies' slippers)Meer informatie
Day 17 The day of flowers.
I have had a wonderfully happy day stopping at every new flower I spotted, taking a note and/or a photo, (and using Google lens when I didn't already know what it was). I learned a lot! Guess how many ...
The BEST OF ALL was the bee orchid. Isn't it BEAUTIFUL?! Finding it today took me back to around 1974 when on a church walk one Sunday afternoon, and I (by anecdote) nearly sat on a bee orchid on Swifts Hill, near Stroud (where I grew up). We have the photo to prove my find ( ... for some reason it makes me feel a bit Winnie the Pooh-ish, but I can't remember why).
And then ... at the end of the day, where I took the extra long route to be close the coast at last again ... unexpected-breathtaking-perfect green-swathed headland, rocky-difficult-glorious, fresh spring dipping pool by the waterfall into the roaring rock tunnel, cliff blow hole... oh my ....
I did dip in the little pool, all birthday suit and pepperminty feeling.
Sooooo happy.Meer informatie
Day 18
Day off walking; a day of simple pleasures on the beach, writing, going to church (Mass, which was the celebration of Confirmation, with the Bishop! Great friendly feeling in the congregation, standing room only), talking, reorganising my things... and a return to this Best of All hostels. The right decision.
Something that's unfolding in me is about having an empty heart, which is not the negative opposite of a full heart (full of joy or love, or overflowing), but a state of being, where the edges of my existence are coming to be less relevant, as if they didn't really even matter in the first place. Dissolving, like soap sheets for laundry. And that “I” find myself simply part of the Whole, the Other, the Rest. I’ve feared not knowing where my heart is, feeling its hardness, blockedness, nothingness; but somehow where I thought it should be doesn't matter anymore; it feels more just “me”. More belly-ish less chest-ish. More “essence”, less “element”. Reminiscent of TS Eliot’s “know the place for the first time” and Augustine's “you were within me but I was outside myself”. “Invite Jesus into your heart” proves to be a falseness. I understand there is a “letting”, but to me now it’s so much more discovering what already was. All the hiddenness of myself, the shame (and maybe also the joy?), the thoughts and feelings, unexpressed or only given the smallest chance to show: were you there all along? Do you know all my shamefulness, my anxieties, my “me-ness”, deep dark down there?
Amused to find my flute-y stone twin in church
Erna, and Dieuwertje, and John, Netherlands, wonderfully deep, personal conversations.
Ernesta, Lithuania.
Josh and Katelyn, Washington, US.Meer informatie
Day 19
Today, the fields not only rang with cowbells but – a first for me – a whole herd of horses joined in the clamourous fun! Which brought this poem to mind, written in late 2017 when we were staying in a monastery in Switzerland, awaiting our US visas.
The Bells of Ralligen
The clanging of bells filled the air and brought my heart to attention:
“this is it”, they were singing,
“this is the moment,
here you are and we are too:
be happy with us, praise be! “
It was early morning,
no change of lightness yet visible in the cloudy sky over the lake, beyond the mountains,
but the bells were urging
the waking of the dawn,
the bells were calling
all ears that could hear,
the bells were summoning life
out of the noone-nowhere-nothing
of the long dark night.
When the church tower fills with the dingdangdong of Sunday beckoning
there are some few minutes of noise,
then a sudden return to emptiness.
But the cows on the hillside persist, persist,
insist,
that we attend
to grace.
Asturias is much more rural than Basque country and Cantabria, and I was walking on country paths nearly all day. Really fun to leave the hostel with John from Holland (and, fyi Dad, he doesn't call it The Netherlands, because for him it's the same thing; but perhaps that’s because he is actually from Holland), at a cracking pace and with easy conversation all the way to Llanes, the first 7 miles of the day. It's a lovely little town, perhaps my favourite so far.
I then sent a box of things home from the post office, relieving myself of about 1kg of kit: just an accumulation of little things, my toilet bag, and one fleece. I kept the new jacket I bought last week, and reckon that if I get cold I can now wear everything I have with me, layered up, and feel confident it's enough.
It feels such a privilege and a freedom to walk though idyllic coastal countryside on a clear and warm day, on my own, mile after mile, just taking in the animals, plants, clouds, winds, paths, villages, occasional people ...
I'm very happy.
'Collected' a whole lot more flowers today ... do you remember those 'I spy' books back in the day? Tick off each thing when you see it? I can't imagine there are many more flowers in northern Spain than I've spotted so far!
Lesley, I have MULTIPLES of 17 flowers on my list. You're the only guesser so far but you're waaaaay off! Can't offer the prize for something so off-beam. Any other guesses?
I'm not thinking all that much, or at least only occasionally thinking about something particular and pursuing an idea. It's been a lot about how I relate to myself and to the world, and to people, about me, noticing how defendedly I've held my heart, (perhaps like any or all of us), and how I don't need that survival mechanism any more. Perhaps. Not sure I can say much more about that right now, as 20 miles is a lot to walk and I'm pretty worn out. I think you'll have to meet me for coffee once I'm home again to ask me what's been going on.
Booked a hotel room because I couldn't find a hostel where I wanted to be, and paid a little more for a bathtub: BLISSSSSSSSS!Meer informatie
ReizigerVery impressed that you walked 20 miles, Anna. Glad you're enjoying it so much and your pack is bit lighter now.
ReizigerReally enjoying catching up with what you’re up to each day. Sleep well
Reiziger24 miles in a day. Wow
Reiziger
Thank you Anna for giving us a filmed glimpse of your walk. X
Reiziger
Incantato