Monday 16th March, Singapore
March 16 in Singapore ⋅ ☁️ 32 °C
Christine Peeris née Moss is my fifth cousin once removed, and today we met in Singapore, where she was born and has lived all her life - without ever crossing any other national border, not even to Malaysia! She is a very proud citizen, who has of seen the growth of a nation, in the last 70 years, from I-(Anna)-am-tbh-not-sure-what-but-very-underdeveloped to the wealthy, fashionable, international hub that hosts (and relies on) every possible global brand for its face and its success. Christine picked us up by taxi with a carefully planned itinerary to fill the following 7 hours, and filled the air everywhere with her constant patter of admiration for what we were seeing as we travelled. Some of our questions she even also managed to answer in between her 'look at that!'s and 'isn't that wonderful's!
We saw lots of the city from the car. These were the most important in Christine's plans for us:
Eurasian Heritage Centre (closed on Mondays, darn it)
Mulligatawny soup - would have been Eurasian Centre chef Quentin's but 'Closed on Mondays' counts for soup as well as exhibition. So we ordered it at:
Fullerton Hotel, grand and beautiful, one of the early iconic buildings of the city. (Christine insisted we walk the red carpet as if grand guests arriving. See video). The soup is thick, curry-ish, rice at the base and chicken lumps in the sauce. I remember similar from childhood, do you? I thought it was Indian, but Christine insisted it is a Eurasian classic.
A 'Welcome to Singapore' chocolate cake she had secretly arranged for Jun, her fave waiter, to bring us for dessert.
Christine has a quirky sense of humour and likes to tease. In the hotel foyer (where lunch is served), when discussing with the waitress which table to take, she was muttering under her breath that she "bought table 27 for S$57000". But she could not quite find it where 'her table' should have been, so we took whatever table it was that was near enough to her favourite position next to a particular palm plant. She was so keen on this one plant I am surprised she hadn't 'bought' that too! She had of course not 'bought' the table, ever, for any amount; they are not for sale. Was this Singaporian comedic improv in full swing?
History exhibition at the Fullerton Hotel - the Singapore Post Office was once housed here, on 3 floors.
The Merlion, mythical mascot of Singapore
Anderson Bridge and Cavenagh Bridge
Tiffin Rooms - another joke: the famous Emmerson's Tiffin Rooms, opened by my g-g-grandfather in 1866, were located in buildings now no longer in existence. In her tour guiding 'reccy' Christine had spied an ice cream man with his little ice cream stand, just on the north side of the Cavenagh Bridge, and decided to declared this to be as close as anyone can tell to the original restaurant. She confused the poor little man by asking if he sells tiffin ice cream; but for S$1.50 I did buy a yam ice cream, the most unusual flavour available.
National Gallery, Old Supreme Court , Victoria Concert Hall, statues of Stamford Raffles (the founder of modern Singapore) and ...
... and this: a monument of an elephant on a column, commemorating the occasion of the visit of the King of Siam to Singapore in 1871. Now, we happen to know that this auspicious event was a grand dinner catered by the best chef of the time: no other than our aforementioned g-g-grandfather Charles Emmerson! And as it happens, this too took place on March 16th: a nice coincidence.
Another cool story to wow the grandkids with!
So our family relationship has been established, in a fun day with a fun lady. Christine has promised to send more details of her family tree research - she preferred to not discuss details today, and apparently others of her family are not keen to divulge private information at all so may need more careful persuading - and I will send her our side of the story. It seems there are more records available in the UK than in Singapore. Internet-savvyness also really helps.Read more
Tuesday 17th March, Singapore
March 17 in Singapore ⋅ ⛅ 32 °C
Happy birthday to me!! We used our last morning in Singapore to visit the Raffles Hotel and celebrate with Afternoon Tea (instead of breakfast and lunch). Elegant, sophisticated, delicious. Madam, sir, hope you have enjoyed your time here, may we wish you a very happy birthday with this cake.
The last photograph here is on display at Raffles, taken at its opening under the Sarkies brothers' new ownership in 1887. It also shows therefore how Emmerson's Hotel at 1 Beach Road had looked when Charles Emmerson died - of a week long fever, and only 47 years old - in 1883. A 10 bedroom beachside bungalow, which had been advertised as "Singapore's most complete and private hotel". It was only later when new buildings were added and the extraordinary grandeur of today's hotel was created, more like a whole town's worth of splendid edifices, and a whole peacock-tail-display of rich-men's brand shops. We enjoyed walking through from back to front and front to back, but didn't stopped more than to ogle the extraordinary wares on display. And to poke a nose into the famous Long Bar, home of the Singapore Sling, only to see no peanut shells littering the floor, despite all rumours to the contrary.
La-di-dah. A pretty nice way to finish up our travels, and to enjoy my birthday with Luca.Read more
Thursday 19th March, LHR
March 19 in England ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C
And so a last day in KL with a visit to the Petronas Building, the highest twin towers in the world, and a taxi trip out of the city and up to the Orang Asli (Aboriginal) Museum, to see if I can find any familiar facial features, seeing as I have a tiny proportion of 'local blood' in my veins! I give the last front photo to Rosa Mary, my great grandmother, whose face is so distinctively Asian, and so sweet and bright.
And a last trip to the night market with its fabulous street food stands. Can you guess what is being sold and eaten here?! Durian in the mix ... you know, the marmite-to-the-nth-degree fruit so smelly it's forbidden in hotels.
And the Very Last Flight, back to 'home'. Home, that is, of the home-less type, because we are still poised on the knife-edge of exchanging contracts on the new house in Devon.
The sun is shining and spring has definitely sprung in our absence. How lovely to be back in familiar old scruffy old England, with an amazing adventure behind me and another ahead. We go to Birmingham this weekend to celebrate Jem's 30th birthday with all the family, will visit respective mothers for several days next week, and hope hope hope that our agreed completion date of no-joke-honest-guv April 1st will see us resident in Sidmouth. Address to follow, folks! Thanks for reading and 'being with' me these two months. I appreciate you.Read more

TravelerThanks so much for sharing your adventures and reflections, Anna. All the best for your new place and hope it all goes smoothly. Do get in touch if you're in our village. Hoping all goes well fir Exchange and Completion. Sidmouth sounds wonderful! Hope you had a good time with the family
















































Traveler
Very stylish and grand! You deserved this!
TravelerHow wonderful to meet Christine and find out more of your family history. I'm looking forward to your book?