Footprints for the Oceania TransAtlantic Crossing ... from Miami to Athens … with three weeks added in Turkey to visit family. Baca lagi

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  • Antiquities ... Food ... Religion

    3 Mei 2022, Turki ⋅ ⛅ 57 °F

    The second day of Şeker Bayramı (Eid al-Fitr) found us out and about around İzmir with Aylin & Murat.

    First, we went to the Archaeology Museum in Bahribaba Park in Konak. The museum, which was founded in 1924, was moved to this location in 1984 to accommodate its large collection of antiquities unearthed during digs around the province.

    The collection consists of sculptures, busts, sarcophagi, and other marble and stone artifacts; ceramics from the Prehistoric Ages to the Byzantine Period; coins from Archaic, Classical, Hellenistic, Roman, Byzantine and Islamic periods; gold, silver; precious stone ornaments; and glassware from the Hellenistic, Roman, and Byzantine periods; and more.

    The bronze statue of a Running Athlete and the fragment of a bronze Demeter statue, excavated from wrecks in the Aegean Sea, are among the most intriguing works in the museum ... and fairly unique finds since it was quite common to melt such bronze artifacts to reuse the metal.

    By the time we left the museum, we were all starving. So, Murat led us to the Özev Döner Salonu, a restaurant on a backstreet of the Kemeraltı Shopping District.

    Döner is similar to the Greek gyro that most people are more familiar with, but it is much better IMHO as the meat is shaved in thinner slices. We ordered the İskender version that is served on cubed pide (a Turkish flatbread) and a side of yogurt. The meat is topped with a tomato sauce and generously slathered with melted butter that is poured hot tableside. Delicious.

    After lunch, we parted ways with Aylin and Murat. They went to take care of errands; we went to do a bit of shopping. Along the way, we "just had to" stop and get a slice of şambali, a sweet treat that is a specialty of this province. It's essentially a semolina cake that is drenched in syrup ... often served with kaymak (clotted cream), which cuts down on the sweetness that can otherwise be quite cloying. Delicious.

    On our way home, we noticed that the gate to the Saint Polycarp Church was open. Dedicated to the revered bishop of Smyrna, St. Polycarp, who was martyred c.155 CE, it is the oldest church in Izmir. In all my years of growing up in Izmir, I'd never been inside, so when Mui suggested we take a peek, I was all for it.

    The church was built in 1625 with the permission of the Ottoman Sultan Süleyman the Magnificent, and at the request of the French King Louis XIII. The building was damaged in the 1688 Smyrna earthquake. It was subsequently repaired, damaged again, and restored a few times. The church that stands today is the one that was rebuilt in 1929 following the Great Fire of Smyrna.

    [Smyrna, by the way, is the name by which İzmir was known in antiquity.]

    We’ve got just a few more days left in İzmir and will try to squeeze in some more sightseeing outings … fingers crossed.
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  • Apple Pie Bakers

    4 Mei 2022, Turki ⋅ ☀️ 63 °F

    Mom and Mui decided to bake an apple pie today ... she prepared the filling; Mui handled the dough placement. Sherlock, Hakan and Serenay's cat, visiting mom while they are away for a couple of weeks, supervised from his perch above the counter.

    End result ... a delicious dessert for tonight!
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  • The Agora of İzmir

    5 Mei 2022, Turki ⋅ ☀️ 64 °F

    This morning, Mui and I decided to check out the ruins of the ancient Agora of İzmir ... aka the Agora of Smyrna. The MüzeKart we purchased in İstanbul in mid-April covered the ₺40pp admission.

    The word agora comes from the Greek language. True to the meaning of the word, during antiquity, it was a place of trade and a place where political, religious, and cultural gatherings were held.

    The Agora of Izmir was originally built by the Greeks in the 4th century BC. Destroyed during an earthquake in 178 AD, it was reconstructed on the orders of the Roman Emperor Marcus Aurelius.

    Excavation of the site started in 1933 and continues to this day. In 2020, the Agora ruins were inscribed on the Tentative World Heritage Site list as part of "The Historical Port City of Izmir."

    This was Mui's first time visiting the ruins. I'd been there a couple of times and noticed some new areas that have since been opened to visitors. While there, we also checked out the Ottoman Era cemetery with its interesting headstones.
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  • Konak Square

    5 Mei 2022, Turki ⋅ ☀️ 70 °F

    From the Agora, Mui and I headed into Kemeraltı, the shopping district, and grabbed some döner for lunch from Özev, the restaurant Murat took us to a few days ago.

    Then, we meandered to Konak Square to reach the waterfront for the stroll back to Alsancak.

    There are two iconic structures in the square.

    One is the Konak Mosque, which has a rather unique octagonal floor plan. The exterior of the windows are banded with tiles from Kütahya, a Turkish province that is famous for its tile works. The mosque, which dates back to 1748, has been restored several times ... most recently in 1964.

    The other structure in the square is the historic Clock Tower, which was inaugurated in 1901 to commemorate the 25th anniversary of Sultan Abdul Hamid II's accession to the throne. The top was destroyed twice during earthquakes, most recently in 1974. The tower, considered the symbol of the city and the province, underwent restoration in 2019.
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  • Murals Around İzmir

    6 Mei 2022, Turki ⋅ ☀️ 68 °F

    Longtime readers all know of my love of murals. The medium doesn't matter ... paint, tile, mosaic. So, of course, when I came across a few as we wandered around the city yesterday and today, I had to photograph them.Baca lagi

  • İzmir Tradition: Lokma Dökmek

    6 Mei 2022, Turki ⋅ ☀️ 72 °F

    Lokma is a pastry made with leavened dough. The dough is shaped either like a ball or a doughnut and deep fried. Then, it is soaked in simple syrup just long enough to coat the exterior. It is often garnished with cinnamon before serving.

    The name lokma literally translates as a bite or a morsel. When shaped like a ball, they are just that … a bite-sized sweet treat.

    It is possible to find a “lokmacı” (lokma maker) where one can enjoy this sweet treat. But that’s not how we came to be eating lokma today.

    You see, there is a tradition in Turkey called “lokma dökmek.” The literal translation is “dropping lokma” … from dropping bits of the dough into boiling hot oil to fry it. This is done by the family of a deceased person to honor his/her memory. Large quantities are made on the street, often in front of mosques, and the fresh, still-warm lokma is distributed to neighbors and passersby. It’s not uncommon for people to queue up to receive a plate and recite a prayer for the soul of the deceased after they eat the lokma. Though traditionally this is done forty days after someone has passed, it might also be done on the anniversary of the death of the deceased.

    The lokma that was “dropped” today was at the request of the young man who owns the neighborhood bakkal (mini market) … in honor of the anniversary of his mother’s death
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  • Urla: Food-Art-Food

    7 Mei 2022, Turki ⋅ 🌙 63 °F

    A beautiful spring day — a bit breezy; but with blue skies and sunshine to mitigate the chill.

    To make the most of it, we began our day early with a 40-minute drive to Urla, a town in the Province of İzmir.

    First up, a delicious breakfast at Léone, a patisserie and boulangerie in the town center. Delicious food … beautiful presentation … excellent service. So glad we arrived early as within minutes of being seated, there was not a single table left empty.

    Next, we drove the short distance to Arkas Sanat Urla, an art museum that was founded by the Arkas Family to feature their collection of art … paintings, sculptures, carpets, tapestries, and more … some from Turkey, others from abroad.

    What a wonderful museum … bright and airy … housed in a custom-built building on the family estate. No admission … which is flabbergasting, but is in line with the family’s “… passion for reaching art to large masses and contributing to Izmir’s cultural life, …”

    Then, we drove down to the Urla waterfront to check out what is billed as a maritime archaeology museum. Not much there … a couple of old boats … a scale model of a fishing village. There’s a lot of work to be done before I’d call this place a museum.

    Finally, we wrapped up with beverages and sweet treats at Fırın Vourla, a café/restaurant on the Urla waterfront. Despite the breeze, we found a secluded table on the terrace so that we could enjoy the beautiful day as we ate our treats.

    What a great way to spend one of only two days we have left with family on this short visit to Turkey,
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  • Happy Mom’s Day

    8 Mei 2022, Turki ⋅ ⛅ 72 °F

    We went to Sakız Restoran for a late lunch today … to celebrate Mother’s Day … and to enjoy a farewell dinner with the family since we leave tomorrow to return to the USA.

    As is always the case, the food was delicious … the service was excellent. For once, instead of filling our tummies with mezes (Turkish tapas) only, we ordered just enough small plates to share so that we could enjoy grilled sea bass as well.

    Now, our bags are packed … just one still open for last minute items. The cab has been ordered for 6:30a tomorrow morning. The alarm is set for o’dark hundred.

    And, oh yes, we took the COVID-19 test that is required to re-enter the USA. Since most of the labs are closed because it is Sunday, we used the proctored eMed antigen test kits from the comfort of the condo. We’re NEGATIVE!
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  • Heading Home

    9 Mei 2022, Turki ⋅ ⛅ 52 °F

    Today is the first of our two travel days to get home … have to overnight in Houston, Texas due to flight schedules.

    Mui did a “bit of shopping,” so we’re going back with an extra bag. One of these years we’ll learn to pack light 😊.

    More later …
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  • At ADB

    9 Mei 2022, Turki ⋅ ⛅ 55 °F

    Mui had arranged for a taxi to pick us up from Mom’s at 6:30a. But we were ready by 6:00a, so he walked over to the corner to see if the cab could pick us up early. The driver was, in fact, ready. We bid mom farewell — until next year. Loaded up the bags. And were on our way to Adnan Menderes Airport (ADB) by 6:15a. Forty five minutes later, we were through the security checkpoint at the entrance to the domestic terminal.

    In recent years, whenever we use United miles for THY tickets, we run into problems at the check-in counter. Namely, the reservation in the system shows no luggage allowance. That requires the agent to call someone who has the authority to fix things in the computer so that the bags can be checked. It took about 20-30 minutes, but finally, the deed was done. The rest of the formalities were easy peasy as, at this hour, ADB is fairly quiet.

    We’re now ensconced at Gate 241. Our “winged chariot” has yet to arrive. Time to relax.

    More later …
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