• Sat Oct 11 Sargaçal & The Grotto

    11 ottobre, Portogallo ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    We woke up at 8:00 to find workers in our decks. Took pics and emailed Rentalgest. Enough already . . . 😫

    We picked up our bikes & headed out about 11. We decided to take the route we missed yesterday - Lagos east along the lovely path then north to Odiáxere, west through Sargaçal, south west to Portalas, then back to Legos. There were about 3 steep climbs, but this time I did them all -including the one I walked up yesterday. Quite proud of myself. We were back in Lagos in 1.5 hours.
    We decided then to try to find the lookout posts we’d missed on Thursday - found them both thanks to Peter. For the first, we parked our bikes and wandered along the boardwalk. Lovely view.
    We biked to further and found The Grotto is the furthest look out point - , spectacular view. The Grotto itself is a small hole in the rocks - but the cliffs are amazing.
    We found a spot for lunch in the heart of the old town, then got back to Rent a Bike to meet Valter at 4:00. By this time I was exhausted - happy to get home a bit early. Peter picked up Dorade -Sea Bream that he had filleted. Baked it over lemons - delish.

    As for the workers - disaster. The windows were shuttered and the furniture under a tarp. Took pics & emailed Rentalgest again. Bottom line - they said they’d reimburse us. We’ll see . . . . .
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  • Friday Oct 10 Biking to Odiáxere

    10 ottobre, Portogallo ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    The morning started with a jarring fire alarm at 9:00. I went outside. Neighbours said security guards had gone into our complex - elevator sometimes caused problems. Finally it stopped

    Picked up our bikes at 11 and found a lovely bike path heading east along the coast. Got to Odiáxere then foolishly decided to head east along highway 125 to Portamia. Not fun - yes there was a bike lane but tons of traffic. We finally stopped at the commercial centre outside the city. Best we could find was a Burger King. The veggie burger was actually good. Then we headed back again along the highway - not fun. Came to a super steep hill- had to walk my bike up it. Peter made it.

    As we approached Sargaçal, again we made a bad decision and turned left towards Lagos. That got us back to highway 125 instead of the bike path. The plus was seeing a water park, plus arriving near our AirBnB . From there we searched out where the Marina reached the sea. Lovely long beach - made a trek across huge rocks to get good pics. Must confess I’m more hesitant than before striding between rocks - but did it.
    Got back to Rent a Bike about 4:30, then had beers at Dove and Sea - lovely setting overlooking the Marina - sipping a tall draft Sagres. One of my favs now. Happiness is . . .

    A quick stop at home - workers had been here painting the shutters - not great- missed 1 panel and left the deck a mess. Oh well. . . .

    Popped over to Pingo Doce for groceries, then home for dinner of salmon - and figuring out how the washing machine works -fortunately it did.
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  • Thursday Oct 9 Biking to Burgau

    9 ottobre, Portogallo ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    At 9:00 workers were on our balcony again. Emailed Rentalgest again with pics. Lots of apologies but . . .
    Picked up our bikes from Valter and headed out. We tried to follow the map he gave us but YIKES it wasn’t easy - lots of hills. I wanted to see the coast but we were far from it. Passed through Luz and ended in Burgau. Had a delish lunch - tuna salad plus beer of course - overlooking the sea. Lovely.
    On route back we finally went along the coast for a while - loved it. Then we lost the route. I gave Peter my phone having plugged in our home address but it didn’t work. At one point I lost him totally. Fortunately I had his phone so eventually was able to make it back. Google maps kept turning me round & round. Sooo frustrating. I finally realized that my phone was in my back pack horizontally, so it thought I was heading in a different direction. Lesson learned. I finally had to ask some young British girls how to get to the Marina. Turns out I wasn’t far away. Peter ignored Google maps and followed signs saying Centro. He got back 20 minutes before me.
    Nice salmon dinner at home.
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  • Wednesday Oct 8 Lagos

    8 ottobre, Portogallo ⋅ 🌬 21 °C

    At 10:00am a man was on our deck hosing it down. Took pics. Spoke to him in French - polite just doing his job. I emailed the agency again - lots of apologies but nothing else. Sent them pics.

    Wandered around town getting our bearings, and decided to rent bikes from Valter at Rent A Bike. He set them up for us. Super nice guy.

    Picked up groceries at Pingo Doce and had a delish tuna dinner.
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  • Tuesday Oct 7, 2025 Lisbon to Lagos

    7 ottobre, Mediterranean Sea ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

    Flew out at 600pm on TAP airlines - cheaper than Air Canada.
    The negative was we had a 15 minutes bus ride to where plane was parked. In Lisbon we also took a bus to the airport.

    Simcard problems - arrived at 6:00am, the train wasn’t until 10:00am so had lots of time. Problem was I couldn’t turn on data roaming so couldn’t get data on either of our phones. I had a European simcard & Peter had a $70 package from Rogers.

    Solution - Settings / cellular / under that is Sims - tap it to see data roaming, and turn it on. Once you know it - it's easy. . . .

    Subway in Lisbon is just outside the airport. Ticket purchase was complicated - finally figured it out - plus have to save card to exit.

    We took the Subway to Orient station - 3 stops. Trains were up 3 floors. Arrived early so went to Hotel Tivoli on the main street to left. Peter got free breakfast. I was too stressed out about my SIM card so just had coffee. After lots of emails to Sim Corner and googling I finally got both phones working. What a relief.

    We had reserved seats on the train, and knew we had to change trains in Tunes, but didn't see that as a destination. Turns out the destination is Faro, and Tune is before that. We found our seats but were surrounded by screaming kids. Not a good start. . . .

    We arrived 35 minutes late in Tunes but fortunately the train to Lagos was there. 😄 Only 45 minutes to Lagos, but several stops on route.

    Walked to our Air BnB. Spacious, 2 bedroom, 2 baths, only problem was the scaffolding outside the window. Emailed Renalgest about that - reply “They are professionals - no worries. “

    Wandered about that day to get our bearings. Rented bikes from Valter at Rent a Bike. Had dinner at Instinyo on the boardwalk of the Marina - lovely setting but food wasn't anything special. Decided we’d eat most of our meals at home.
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  • Day 29 & 30 Heading to Paris then home

    29 settembre 2024, Francia ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    Unfortunately, departure day has arrived.

    We managed to book a direct 6 hour TGV train from Girona to Gard de Lyon in Paris. Then, we needed to take the RER train to CDG airport. All in all it worked out quite well.

    There are 2 train stations in Girona, side by side. The local Spanish trains are in a typical old building. Just next to it is an ultra modern station for the Spanish high speed trains called AVE, plus other trains like the French TGV - which is what we took.

    We’d booked seats, the train was on time, so all was A-OK. I’d downloaded a good book and was looking forward to reading it the whole way there. As luck would have it, a sweet, vivacious, young American girl sat across from us, so for the first 2 hours we learned all about her life. Must say she reminded me a lot of our girls - positive, adventurous & high energy.

    Arriving in Gare de Lyon, the next challenge was finding the RER train to the airport. The French underground system is massive - quite the challenge.

    Our glitch here was, we bought tickets to get through the turnstile and onto the train, but they didn’t work. Fortunately, an attendant let us through. The problem, thought, was those tickets wouldn’t let us out of the train station when we arrived at the airport.

    OK what now. A young couple went through before us, so we quickly slipped in behind them - not easy with luggage, but we did it.

    The shuttle to the Jangle Hotel arrived quite quickly. We weren’t sure what to expect, so were pleasantly surprised.

    The decor was modern & funky, the rooms were spacious, but the big plus was access to Plaine Oxygène - a huge rec centre a 2 minute walk away. Unfortunately, we didn’t scout this out until the next day. Wish we’d stayed an extra day to enjoy it.

    The flight the next day was uneventful, which is what we wanted.

    Reflecting a bit on the past month - it was great. The weather wasn’t as warm as we thought - should have brought my puffy jacket. Plus, I’d packed terribly - the worst ever. I use packing bags - 3 in total - underwear, tops & bottoms. When opened my suitcase in Bordeaux I saw 4 bags - one full of nothing but more packing bags. YIKES. - it took up 1/3 of my suitcase.

    Next mistake - I’d bought new Sketcher runners - light, washable, everything I wanted, but the design of the soles was with lots of holes, so with every step I took there was a HUGE squeak. I felt like a toddler squeaking away - all that was missing was the flashing lights on my heals. Needless to say, Peter & I were delighted when I could finally ditch them.

    Bottom line - Bordeaux is well worth a visit. It’s like a mini Paris with impressive monuments everywhere, and bike / walking streets leading into them. It’s designed to encourage a healthy lifestyle - 42 K of connected walkways, parks, workout stations, basketball courts, skateboard parks, even a beach volleyball area.

    Girona is charming - a small walled city stepped in history, but also a biker’s heaven. The narrow cobblestone streets in the old area, where we were, mean almost no cars, but across the 6 bridges there’s a modern city with it’s own charm.

    Our train excursions to St Émilion & Arcachon from Bordeaux, and Barcelona from Girona were well worth it. Our 52 K bike ride to Sant Feliu de Quixois was memorable.

    So ends our Bordeaux, Girona 2024 adventure 😊
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  • Day 28 Last day in Girona

    28 settembre 2024, Spagna ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    Final day in Girona. The plan - visit our fav spots and hit some places we’d missed.

    Went for breakfast at our fav restaurant just around the corner - La Comuna Café. Lots of young folks & bikers - delish healthy food, good coffee.

    From there we headed over the nearby bridge - Pont de Sant Feliu - a flea market was set up there. Must confess I had some of those old cameras - delighted now to snap, snap, edit, edit, delete, delete.

    Next stop - Mercat del Lleò. Wished we’d discovered this day 1. It’s open everyday 7am- 3pm. Soooo much fresh fish, so many types of fruits & veggies. Why, were we eating frozen fish? 🤨

    We dropped off our purchases, then headed to Parc de la Devesa for a quick work out. Love my easy outdoor circuit.

    Next stop, the Jewish History Museum. We’re not religious, but the “heart” of the old city is the Jewish area, so we thought we should learn more. Seems there was a large Jewish population here back in the 9th century, but by 1492 they’d almost disappeared due to forced conversion or exile. The museum is on the site of the last synagog in the city. By the end of the 1970s some of the buildings were rehabilitated, then in 1992 it became a public facility and was more fully restored. The museum is extremely well done - comprehensive video, lots of old pics & info, and well restored sections - synagog, funeral parlour, baths.

    For our final beers, we chose Somia in « our » courtyard - lots of local families, kids & action. As the pic shows, you can see our place and the top of the Basilica from there.

    Heading to Paris tomorrow by train, then home. Will reflect more on the whole trip then . . . .
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  • Day 27 40K on foldable Brompton bikes

    27 settembre 2024, Spagna ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    We’d seen several bikers on foldable Brompton bikes, so thought we should try them out. Peter asked for a manual, but there was only 1, so I lucked out and got an e-bike - same price.

    Took a moment to get used to it - small wheels, heavy battery - but then I loved it. Started out with no power, then decided that was silly - enjoy the « help ». I set it on 1 , which worked well until a big hill - didn’t gear down, couldn’t make it to the top, so quickly put it at 2. I was sailing 🤩

    I decided to use the All Trails app this time, but not set a path so we could do our own thing. After 2 weeks here, we know our way around quite well

    40K later, after rides to the north west & south, with lots of interesting sites along the way - plus a pause for lunch at our super healthy place, Baju - we were exhausted and headed home.

    The pics say more than words
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  • Day 26 Biking About

    26 settembre 2024, Spagna ⋅ 🌬 29 °C

    Today didn’t quite go as planned. We’d rented bikes again and were trying to find the route Bonmati via Mas Llunes.

    I thought I was so clever - down loaded the route with Ride with GPS, put my phone on Peter’s bike, and delegated this totally to him. Problem was, I forgot to tell him that when it went 🎼🎼🎼, it meant we were off course. 🙁

    Needless to say, we ended up totally off course. We eventually got back on course - but after too many dipsy doodles trying the find the path, we decided to do our own thing. Sooo much better.

    Our conclusion, it’s less stressful doing our own thing. With 6 bridges and landmarks like the Basilica & Catedral you can’t get too lost.

    After about 4 hours of biking, our final K count was about 35. Another lesson learned - when you pause using Bike with GPS, be sure to hit Resume. Our whole northern route after lunch was not recorded.

    YIKES- so many things to learn - keeps the old brain functioning - hopefully 😉
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  • Day 25 Biking 52K to the Costa Brava

    25 settembre 2024, Spagna ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

    What a great day. We picked up our bikes about 10am and headed off to Sant Felix de Guixois. The guys at Cycle Tours said it was super easy to find the route out of town - take the path under the train tracks then turn left. 🤨

    Not so simple - after lots of dipsy doodling about for about 30 minutes we finally found it. Lessons learned - as always. . . . . I’d downloaded the route on Ride with GPS, but didn’t know if I turned the volume up the “sweet” lady would actually talk to me. Once we found the route, I figured this out so we were good to go.

    The route itself was great - through 3 or 4 towns, where we amazingly didn’t get lost - then through various terrains from lush trees to barren fields. The guys in the bike shop said it was mostly downhill. Not true . . . . the last bit was down hill, but the rest was not and the wind was pretty strong.

    We were delighted when we finally sighted water. By this time it was about 3:00pm and we were worried they wouldn’t be serving food. Fortunately they were, plus we really needed some nice cold beers. Estrella seems to be the only beer on tap in most places, but that suits me fine - light and cold. We, of course, ordered seafood - calamares and grilled clams - delish

    The scene there was amazing - as the pics show - so I won’t say much more. Fortunately we’d arranged to be picked up there, rather than bike back - good decision. Being late now, we headed to our fav restaurant in « our » courtyard and have a lovely meal accompanied by their specialty wines.

    Being a warm beautiful night I headed out to get some night pics. Girona is amazing in the evening. Have only posted a couple of pics here, will add more tomorrow.
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  • Day 24 More Discoveries

    24 settembre 2024, Spagna ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    It was supposed to rain all day, but turned out to be beautiful - warm & sunny. So much for weather forecasts here. . . .

    We started off at “our” courtyard cafe, Somia, for delish coffee & croissants, then Peter headed off to rent bikes for Friday, and I wandered the city.

    There are no end of places to discover here - every steep staircase takes you somewhere different. I just kept heading up . . .

    My highlights were finally finding some live street music - not great but entertaining - plus discovering new sites - Idle Hands, a bikers fav that’s hidden away, Jewish History Museum, City Hall, University, Municipal Theatre - plus couldn’t resist taking more pics from the bridges.

    It’s a place even I can’t get lost in. The Onyar River dissects the city with the old section on the east and new on the west. There are 4 rivers that converge here, but in the heart of the city there’s only the Onyar. The wall encircles the old town, and is a good 1.5 hour walk along the major section.

    On route back home, wandering near the Basilica, I thought I was being attached - loud crashing sounds all around me. There was a huge gust of wind and it turns out the noise was from acorns falling on the cars parked along the route. A lovely British lady explained what was happening and we picked up some of the acorns Another new experience . . .

    Meanwhile, Peter had headed to Eat, Sleep, Cycle to rent city bikes for Friday, then went on a super long walk along the river on the west side.

    We met up near our place for drinks and to swap stories.
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  • Day 23 Learning more about Girona

    23 settembre 2024, Spagna ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    We were hoping to bike today, but the forecast said rain - totally wrong, it was a lovely day.

    We headed off first to Cycle Tours to book bikes for Wed & Thurs, then to our fav nearby park - Devesa. The workout stations here, like in Bordeaux, are well used. Wish I’d taken a video of the amazing « tricks » the guys were doing here.

    From there we wandered along the outside of the wall, then stopped at the base of the Catedral for drinks and people watching.

    A group of young university students approached us. Seems they were on a type of scavenger hunt. With our broken Spanish, and their limited English, and lots of laughs, they said they’d give us a paper clip in exchange for something we had. The only thing we could quickly find was a straw from the cafe. They seemed delighted, took pics of us and headed off. I, of course, got pics of them - a fun encounter.

    Although I’ve been taking pics of the street leading to our place, and we’ve seen lots of guided tours there, I didn’t realize the significance of it. It seems that flies are revered here, and have an historical significance. Right next to our place is Hotel Museu Llegendes de Girona and Salvador Dali Museum, with a huge fly on the wall. Around the corner is a street called Cerrer De Les Mosques (flies)

    Researching a bit it seems that Girona has been attacked 25 times and captured at least 7 times. During the French siege in 1286, soldiers ransacked the entire city including the churches. They tore open the tomb of Saint Narcis and a swarm of flies flew out of the tomb and attached the French causing them to retreat. There’s a festival every Oct 29 to celebrate this.

    According to the myths here, if we kiss the “ass” of the lioness, and touch one of the Sant Narcis flies we will be granted “miracles” . . . . Stay tuned . . .
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  • Day 22 Barcelona

    22 settembre 2024, Spagna ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    Being so close to Barcelona, we decided it was a “must see” so used one of our travel days.

    It was well worth the the trip. Barcelona is huge, the train station itself is overwhelming. You can’t even exit it without showing your ticket / QR code.

    The frustrating part was there’s no tourist office there or anywhere nearby, so we had to Google map the closest one. What did we do before cell phones?? When we finally found one, it was nothing but a booth selling tickets for the hop on hop off bus. When we asked, she said there were no tourist buildings per say just these booths - seriously . . . . 🤨.

    Having limited time, and wanting to get an overview of the city we hopped on the bus. The red & blue routes took us to all the key landmarks - all 30 of them.
    The highlight for me was Sagrada Familia, the largest unfinished Catholic church in the world. It was designed by Antoni Gaudi, and at the time of his death in 1926 was only 1/4 finished. Funded through private donations, it continues to be built and is expected to be completed by 2026, complete with 18 spirals.

    Heading back “home” the Cathedral & Basilica near our place were lit up beautifully. Being late, we popped into the restaurant in “our” courtyard - Somia Vins I Llibres. It’s charming - a combo of wine shop, book store and tapas. Will definitely be going back.
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  • Day 21 Sea Otter Bike Festival

    21 settembre 2024, Spagna ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

    Little did we know, but Girona was hosting the Sea Otter Europe Bike Races & Festival Sept 20-22. That explains why we’ve seen so many bikers here all in the same outfits.

    I especially liked seeing several girls with UAE shirts (United Arab Emirates) all decked out in high quality biking gear, but with head scarves under their helmets. Good on them.

    We headed out early morning to La Commune, a breakfast / lunch place around the corner that’s a fav for bikers. It was packed, but we managed to find seats and breakfast was delish.

    From there we headed to the train station - I’d successfully booked our train tickets from here to Gare du Lyon in Paris for next Sunday, and reserved our seats, but it said we had to print out the seat reservations. Such a pain - who carries a printer with them ☹️.

    At the train station they said they couldn’t print the tickets and sent us to a nearby shop. The grouchy man there said it would cost 30. I assumed 30 euros - YIKES $45 😖. I quickly checked my Visa card and realized it was $1.50 - obviously lost in translation. . . . Don’t understand why the email showing QR codes for our booked seats wasn’t enough. Oh well. ..

    From there we searched out the Saturday market in the park - colourful & active per usual - and found a work out station that was my kind of place - open air & easy. While there we heard lots of noise coming from across the water, but didn’t know why.

    Heading back, we noticed market stalls set up on the bridges. One shop caught my eye - small bags with unique designs. Fortunately the artist spoke English so we had a delightful conversation with him as he explained how & why he created each of his designs. I rarely purchase anything, but bought a tiny pouch to hold coins - great memento.

    Next stop was a local bike shop called 21 and another fun conversation ensued. Seems this young British girl had come here 4 years ago with her bike and never left. She’s now married to a Gironian and was a wonderful source of info about the city and all the bike trails.

    She was the one who told us about Sea Otter Europe, the 8th annual biking festival in Girona - 6000+ participants and races for both competitive and amateur bikers, also a huge exhibition with the best biking brands on the market. It was quite the scene.

    The major race was 100K uphill - the winners did it in 4 hours. As they’d started at 10 and we arrived there about 2:00, we were able to see some of the front runners passing by.

    As luck would have it, we’d unintentionally wandered onto the biking path, so I got some pics of the bikers heading into their final 1 K. One of the organizers, hustled us off the path, but also explained more about the event. The pics & video capture is better than I can explain.

    Heading home we paused for beers at Indépendance Square, then searched Sunset Jazz Club around the corner from our place - will check that out next week.

    Another GREAT day
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  • Day 20 Relax & Plan

    20 settembre 2024, Spagna ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

    A bit rainy today, so a good day to relax & plan.

    Was able to book several trips - Girona to Barcelona this Sunday, and here to Gare du Lyon in Paris next Sunday.

    Must say I’m getting more comfortable using Rail Planner to book trains using our Eurail pass, plus find trains we can pay for directly. My problem is that for most longer rides, you have to reserve seats, and AVE, the Spanish rapid transit train line, doesn’t seem to be part of the Eurail system ☹️

    Also, when reserving seats, they want a hard copy. I was able to print out most of our seat reservations prior to leaving, but for Girona back to Paris I’ll have to go to the station to get print outs.

    Mission accomplished on the bookings, I wandered out to explore more - pics say more than words.

    Some observations:
    Garbage - is not collected. You have to take it to a nearby drop off place that has 5 colored bins - good luck figuring out what goes where. I bundled up 2 of our 4 bins - paper & metal - and headed out. Trust I put them in the right bins.

    Music - what’s missing here, at least for me, is music. There are no live bands or entertainment in the various squares - unlike Bordeaux, or San Miguel de Allende where there’s live music & dancing everywhere.

    Berries & fresh fish - so difficult to find - when you see them, buy them. We’ve been buying a lot of frozen fish.

    Bikers - this is bikers « heaven ». Seems the serious Tour de France bikers train here. Also seems we’ve come during the most popular month - Sept - so bikes are scarcer and prices are higher. I keep seeing pelotons of serious bikers passing by - but haven’t been able to get any good pics yet, hopefully later.

    Must say I love the view from our window. The small square is obviously a local meeting place for young families - especially on Friday nights & weekends. Enjoy seeing so many Dad’s playing with their kids and the kids so active - a glimpse into local life here.
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  • Day 19 - Biking Adventure

    19 settembre 2024, Spagna ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    Today was a biking day. Peter had scouted out a good ride the other day, so we decided to head that way again.

    He’d tried to book bikes the night before, but RBC complicated the process and his payment didn’t go through. Arriving at Cycle Tours about 10 am there were only large men’s bikes available. There was no way I could get my old inflexible legs over that high bar. 🙁 l ended up on a extra small mountain bike and loved it - great suspension and the fat tires made it seem super safe.

    We headed off through a lovely huge park - Jardin de la Devesa - then out of the city. The bike path was well marked, so even we couldn’t get lost. We followed the river and chanced upon a group of kayakers having good fun. See pics.

    Pausing for pizza & beers at a tiny place in Bonmartí, we couldn’t believe how cheap it was compared to Girona.

    After trying to find a different route back, we finally gave up. Must confess, I purchased AllTrails, plus downloaded Ride with GPS, but both apps totally confuse me. Really have to spend some time trying to figure them out - would eliminate a lot of stress 😉

    Heading back we were caught in the rain, but fortunately had our rain jackets. Rather than head back through the park, we went another way and ended up seeing sooooo much more of the city. Must say, bikes are the way to go - fast, efficient, and really let you see and appreciate your surroundings.

    Couldn’t resist taking a few more pics of the lovely bridges and colourful houses while walking back home.

    All in all a great day. 😀
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  • Day 18 Exploring about

    18 settembre 2024, Spagna ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

    Today was a big walking day.

    Peter hadn’t walked the wall, so we started there. We didn’t take the same route I’d taken yesterday - interesting how many different paths there are up there.

    Although it wasn’t as sunny as yesterday, there were still lovely views, and very few people. A couple of hours later, we paused for lunch at Bolj - super choice - healthy keto choices as shown in the pic.

    From there we wandered through the Jewish section - to be honest I couldn’t figure out how it was different - then went to the Arab Baths - so interesting.

    We’d seen the Roman Baths in Bath England, so were curious to see how they compared. The Roman baths, built between 60 and 70 AD, are much larger and more elaborate. These were built in 1194, carved into the rocks and much smaller - only 5 rooms, each with a specific function - vestibule, cold room, warm room, bathing room, sauna. Interesting that they were able to create all that way back then - for men only, mind you. 😣

    For Game of Thrones followers - we are not - season 6 was filmed in Girona, including these Baths.

    From there we scouted out a whole new section of the wall to walk - totally separate from the main wall, with almost no one there. Lots of climbing up & down narrow paths & staircases. Pics tell it all.

    12,126 steps later we arrived back “home” happy to relax, sip our beers, search out adventures for tomorrow, and have dinner.
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  • Day 17 Walking the wall around the city

    17 settembre 2024, Spagna ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    Today Peter checked out the bike paths, and I wandered along the wall encircling the old city.

    Loved my day - from the cathedral I was able to find the walking path along the ancient walls encircling the old town. Was delighted that there very few people along the route so I could really enjoy it.

    The pics & video tell most of the story, so I won’t say more. Such spectacular views from on high.

    I was able to find my way back home from the end of the path, stopping to grocery shop on route back, then headed over to the West Bank to check out the huge Parc de la Devesa. Heading back I got a bit lost, but eventually found my way back to meet Peter.

    Meanwhile, Peter had had a lovely 45 K bike tour along the water, through the same large park I’d visited, then he’d headed outside the city. I’m glad he scouted it out so I’ll join him later this week.

    Must say I was shocked at the price for renting bikes here. Yes it’s a bikers «  heaven » but they’re certainly capitalizing on it. In Bordeaux we paid 14 euros a day, in Arcachon 12 euros. Here they’re charging 30 minimum for a city bike plus 5 for a helmet. YIKES for 2 of us that’s 70 euros a day- $95. That’s crazy. Must say that’s part of the reason why I didn’t bike today.
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  • Day 16 Exploring Girona

    16 settembre 2024, Spagna ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C

    Today was a wandering exploring day.

    Must say Girona is soooo picturesque- 6 bridges, colour buildings along the water and historical buildings everywhere.

    Our place is located in the old town, in a small plaza near all the historical sites but hidden away and super quiet. Spanish families come with their kids in the late afternoon - there’s a play structure there and very few other play areas that we saw for kids, but by 8:00 pm all is quiet.

    So many beautiful buildings and so much history.
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  • Day 15 Girona Spain

    15 settembre 2024, Spagna ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C

    Today was a travel day. We checked out about 11am, taking Tram D we got to the train station in good time. Our train was to Narbonne France - but getting from there to Girona Spain was a problem.

    The train I wanted was a Spanish high speed train AVI but I couldn’t reserve a seat - seems it’s not part of the Eurail pass. ☹️

    OK plan B. I was able to book seats on a French TGV train, but it meant we had a 3 hour layover on Narbonne.

    No worries. We wandered our way to the heart of the city and found a good spot for drinks and dinner - which actually worked out well because once again we were travelling on a Sunday - what not to do- and chances are, nothing would be open when we arrived.

    Our AirBnB host Sara met us there and showed us around. Seems we chose well - our place is aesthetic and well located.
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  • Day 14 Last day in Bordeau

    14 settembre 2024, Francia ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    Our last day was exactly what we’d wished for - sunny & warm. Our plan - head off on our bikes and visit places we hadn’t discovered as yet.

    Stop one - Darwin Eco-Centre, an abandoned military barracks on the right bank that was redeveloped in 2011 to focus on environmental issues. The pics say more than I could. Love how they redevelop places that could have negative vibes and make them into positive experiences.

    Other stops were to « people watch » - always good fun. Bordeaux brags about becoming the skateboard capitol of Europe. Loved seeing all the little ones there. Plus there were the bikers, runners, beach volley ball players, and lots of people strolling along the river and around town.

    Other highlights included seeing all the cruise ships docked there - amazing how they get down the small Garonne river from the Atlantic. There were also smaller river cruise ships, which make more sense.

    Interesting watching the Pont Jacques Chaban bridge open to let the huge boats pass - the whole middle section rose up, and slowly came back down again.

    Bottom line - Bordeaux is well worth a visit. They seem to be doing everything right to make it a vibrant liveable city and keep their people active & heathy. In 2020 they had 27K of connected bike paths. 2024, they now have 40.5 K, plus more in the plans. Certainly our kind of place.

    Tomorrow we head off to Spain - a whole new experience.
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  • Day 13 My 77th Birthday

    13 settembre 2024, Francia ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C

    77, happy & feeling fine. 🤩

    It’s great having a B-Day in September because we’re often travelling. Would be fun to pull together all those pics and see where all we’ve been.

    The sun was shining as we headed off on our bikes to hit some of the spots in Bordeaux we hadn’t seen as yet - Marché des Capucines and Bassins des Lumières.

    The market was an wonderful mix of colours, smells, sights & sounds. The pics say more than words.

    Bassins des Lumieres is unique - a huge German submarine bunker that was left there after WWII that’s been turned into an immersive digital arts centre. This presentation was the Dutch Masters - Vermeer to Van Gogh. It was amazing - powerful music, huge walls and ever changing images totally surrounding us.

    We’ve seen similar Van Gogh presentations - in a cave at Baux-de-Provence, (incredible) in Avignon and in Toronto. This exhibition was unique, though, due to its setting and the inclusion of 325 artworks by 50 different Dutch painters. I got a little carried away taking pics & videos.

    The night ended with a birthday dinner at Brasserie Le Noailles - the same restaurant we’d found the first night we arrived. Lovely ambiance, excellent food & wine.

    I was delighted to get so many warm birthday wishes from all our girls and many friends.
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  • Day 12 Arcachon on the Atlantic Ocean

    12 settembre 2024, Francia ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    Such a great day. Being so close to the Atlantic Ocean we thought we should check it out.

    Turns out getting there was super simple. Used 1 day from our Eurorail pass, down loaded the tickets onto my phone, and we headed off. Can’t imagine how I would function without a European SIM card. Only $35 and it’s good for the whole month.

    Tram D took us to the station in about 30 minutes - in good time for our train to Arcachon. No trouble finding a seat - chose the upper level.

    At the tourist office we asked about renting bikes. They suggested several places, so we chose the closest - 2 Roule Loc. For E$ 13 each for the day, we were good to go.

    Arcachon is charming - 200K of bike paths, aesthetic shops & restaurants, miles of sandy beaches. We could easily spend several days here - perhaps a couple of weeks.

    We took the bike path to La Dune du Pilat - largest sand dune in Europe - pausing along the way for pics etc, and about 1.5 hours later arrived at a look out point. We weren’t sure we were at the right place, but saw a long set of stairs heading down, so wandered down.

    Turns out, while the cars & buses are routed to the top of the dunes, we cyclists, after walking down the stairs, were at the bottom. This was much better - gave such a good perspective on the enormity of the dunes.

    Must say, though, having lived in Saudi and having spent numerous weekends in the huge dunes there, we weren’t quite as impressed as perhaps others are.

    Heading back we paused for lunch at a lovely spot overlooking the ocean, then biked from there through town as far as the bike path went - which was extensive.

    We caught the 5:00 pm train back - and for the first time since we’ve arrived, they actually checked our tickets. Fortunately I could quickly pull up our Digital Eurail passes so all was fine.

    All in all a great day.
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  • Day 11 - Relax & Reflect

    11 settembre 2024, Francia ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    Not being able to watch the Harris -Trump debate yesterday - 3:00 am here - and being a cool rainy day - it was perfect for watching the whole debate a day later, and reflecting a bit.

    Debate : Must say Kamala aced it - smart, articulate, warm, positive. She knew how to push Trump’s buttons and he reacted instantly & angrily showing his true colours. Hope lots of undecided Americans were watching.

    Reflecting: It’s so interesting seeing the small - yet significant - differences between Canada & France - at least here in Bordeaux . Here bikers and pedestrians rule supreme. There are bike lanes everywhere. When one enters a crosswalk on bike or on foot - cars stop.

    Appliances - washers & dryers take forever. 2 hours for a wash, another 2 to dry, and the machines are weird. When opening them, one is faced with a huge drum. You have to roll it about and figure out how to open it. Coffee & wine glasses are tiny - perhaps why the French are so lean.

    Garbage: garbage is picked up twice a week, recycle is picked up once, and glass bottles have to be taken to a special bin. It actually makes sense.

    They love their “vin, fromage et chocolat” - shops everywhere. Our host kindly left us the French essentials - full box of Nespresso capsules, chocolates from a boutique shop, Hasnaá, bottled water and fresh orange juice. Happiness is . . . .

    A few pics on a rainy day - the place was hopping - busy outdoor cafés, kids on carousels, people walking, scooting, biking about.

    Still have to get pics of some of our fav places near by - boulangerie, poissonnerie, etc etc
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  • Day 10 St Emilion

    10 settembre 2024, Francia ⋅ 🌙 15 °C

    Beautiful sunny day here at last, so we decided to take the train to St Émilion, a world heritage site nearby known for its fine wines. So many friends had recommended it, we thought we should go.

    We got up early, dropped our bikes off by 9:30 am, then took tram D to the train station. Must say, we’re starting to figure out the tram systems and are super impressed - clean, efficient & work well.

    We decided not to use 1 day from our 5 day rail pass as St Émilion is super close. Using the kiosk, we quickly booked our tickets - 34 euros for 2 - and headed off. There was no reserved seating, but we easily found a seat.

    Arriving at St Emilion, it was a good 15 minute walk uphill to the lower town, with lovely vineyards everywhere. We then headed up a super steep cobblestone path to the upper town. Once up, the view from Place du Clocher down to the lower town and surrounding area was amazing.

    Our problem, though, is that it seemed too touristy- swarms of people following shouting tour guides holding large signs. Not our scene. Although the town is steeped in history, charming & aesthetic, we were glad we chose to spend 2 weeks in Bordeaux and experience « La vraie vie » rather than stay here.

    Heading back to Bordeaux at 5:00pm, there were tons of people waiting on the platform, so I had to spread my elbows and be assertive. Seeing no free seats, finally in my «  best » French I explained to a young French guy that my husband really needed a seat - and he kindly obliged. Really have to play this « elderly card » as much as possible. 😉

    Interesting - on the train there and back, no one checked our tickets. Even on Tram D heading home we sat next to the entrance and noted that only half the people paid - those not paying were mostly young men.

    All in all a great day.
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  • Day 9 Not what we planned

    9 settembre 2024, Francia ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    Such a weird day. As Peter wasn’t feeling well yesterday - pains in his chest - we decided to have it checked out. We contacted our host who suggested a nearby private clinic.

    We walked there - half an hour- and were quickly and politely received. When Peter told his symptoms, they quickly calculated what it would be a minimum of $800 euros- $1,200 Cdn. YIKES - that was a no go.

    They said we could go to the public hospital - Chu Pelligrin - and it would be free. Right? ???? They gave us directions to the tram, which we couldn’t find, we then ended up taking bus 9 there. Another new experience. 😉

    We arrived at 5:15pm and were quickly checked in - they didn’t ask the reason why. We then waited until 6:15 until a nurse came and asked what the symptoms were. By 6:30 we were still waiting, so Peter decided enough was enough and we left. He was feeling OK, and we saw others being called in before he was.

    Interesting to check out other medical systems. Here there’s obviously public and private systems. As we had checked into emergency in both, we noticed that the public system had lots of ambulance staff standing round with their patients - like in TO. Such a waste of time & money. Surely there are qualified hospital staff who could take over once the patient arrives. . . .

    Heading home was easy - found tram line A then transferred to D. We’re getting to be old hands at this public transit stuff.

    Bottom line - Peter feels fine now. He’ll check out this episode when we get home.
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