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  • Day 12

    Passover with Sheryl’s Family

    April 24 in the United States ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    I love the train. It is quiet, comfortable and quick. Sheryl and her mom, Jeanne, picked me up at 30th Street Station in Philadelphia on our way to Passover Seder at Fredda and Paul Pennock’s home. But first we stopped to visit the grave site of Jeanne’s parents, Pauline and David Levenberg, and Sheryl’s dad, Joseph Sackman. It always feels weird to me to see a headstone with a blank space. It feels rather menacing. It was a good thing to do. Sheryl’s mom can’t drive to visit - at 99, she doesn’t drive on highways or super busy streets anymore.

    Seders are often long, drawn out affairs with lots of stories, songs, and catching up with family we only see once a year. This year the ceremony was rather truncated. I’m not sure why but the sombreness of the Israeli hostages and the war in Gaza weighed heavy.

    Max, and his partner (whose name I can’t remember) drove down from Maine to visit with their 8-month-old (giant) baby. Sheryl and her mom got to spend some quality time with this bundle of cuteness. The brisket and turkey were delicious along with the twice baked potatoes. We sat at what would normally be described as the kid’s table (off to the side). Joining Sheryl, Jeanne and I were Ken and Jen. Ken is one of my other twin brother from another mother. He is a blast. Jen is the new grandma of the giant baby (I gotta pay more attention to names).

    The next couple days were spent at my MIL’s house hanging out, eating good bagels, and enjoying Jeanne’s company. We are planning her 100th birthday party either on her birthday in December or for next spring when the weather is better. It is remarkable that we can think about postponing a 100th birthday celebration as if there is no rush. Sheryl’s mom still works one day a week, lives alone, and spends more time chatting with friends than either Sheryl and I combined. She is impressive. As we left on Thursday morning, she was getting ready to plant some pansies and spread a bit of mulch in her garden.

    Well, we are off to Mexico City!
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  • Day 10

    Congressional Cemetery and Bay Street

    April 22 in the United States ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    I had an afternoon train so Bob got to tour me around the Congressional Cemetery. I have visited many times, but it had been a while. Along the way, we passed by the controversial statue of Abraham Lincoln with an emancipated slave. The positioning of Lincoln towering over a crouching slave is less than enlightened. In any case, it still stands.

    Because it was not feasible or practical to ship a body home for burial, the Congressional Cemetery hosts many former members of Congress who died while in DC. Here are the graves and memorial markers I noted (*notes people I knew when I lived in DC):
    Jim Graham* - Jim was an AIDS activist and ran the Gay Men’s Health Clinic when I lived in DC. In later years he successfully ran for City Council. https://www.washingtonpost.com/local/former-dc-…
    An accordion player - This woman had her graves stones carved into the shape of an accordion - Music is the Answer.
    A librarian - He “cataloged” himself creating a Library of Congress card catalog number and all other features one might find on a traditional library card - hole and all.
    John Phillip Sousa - famous band music writer.
    Northwest Native American totem arch - Not sure the story here, but it is beautiful.
    Marion Barry Jr.* - The quote from Maya Angelou etched on his grave reads, “Marion Barry changed America with his unmitigated gall to stand up to the ashes of where he had fallen and came back to win…”
    Leonard Matlovich* - He was one of the early contractors of AIDS and died in 1988. His stone reads, “When I was in the military they gave me a metal for killing two men and a discharge for loving one.” During my time in DC so many of my fellow gay and lesbian activists died of AIDS. It was a scary time. I never did count the number of men and women who I worked with or volunteered with who died of AIDS but it was a lot.
    Frank Kameny* - His is only a memorial grave marker as it is unclear where his was laid to rest. He is located in what Bob would call, “The Gay Neighbourhood” in the cemetery. His famous quote is “Gay is Good”.
    Clyde Anderson Towson - is buried about 10 grave sites over from his lover, FBI Director, J. Edgar Hoover. Yes. That’s what made him (Hoover) so damn angry and mean.
    Barbara Gittings and her partner Kay Lahusen - are buried in the gay neighbourhood. Gittings organized the Daughters of Bilitis in 1958 and was one of the picketers at the White House in 1965.
    Bob Dardano* - future resting place is just next to Gittings and Lahusen and other gay activist. His spots sits at the base of a beautiful cherry blossom tree. He’ll be covered with pink petals every spring. Hopefully no time soon.
    Tom Foley - former Speaker of the House has an infinity sculpture in steel. One of a kind.
    Alain Locke - First African-American Rhodes Scholar
    Warren Robbins - Founder of the National Museum of African Art located on the Mall.

    Lastly, I went over to my old house at 1828 Bay Street. I purchased that house for $75,000 back in 1986 when I was 26 years old. Cathy, my former partner, and I had the small kitchen completely gutted and redone. I scrapped five layers of wallpaper off the living and dining room walls to discover that the corners where the walls met had never been sealed - only papered over. We put a lot of sweat equity in that three-bedroom, one bath house. It looked nice and well maintained.
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  • Day 8

    Two plus more days in Washington

    April 20 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

    Days are full. Saturday morning, Bob and I walked down to Eastern Market where I used to do my weekly grocery shopping. It is a bit more arts and crafts and less with foodstuffs outside, but this inside is great. We bumped to an old friend from my NARAL days (ProChoice America - or some other name it has now). Lisa lives in beautiful West Virginia. She is less enamoured - the politics there is pretty rough. Trump country. It is in these moments, I am reminded of how lucky I am that I get to live in Canada. That 90-minute ferry ride across the border makes a big difference.

    Right near the Supreme Court is the Belmont-Paul Women’s Equality National Monument. Until fairly recently, it was a private museum of sorts. I gotta say, it is pretty sparse of furniture, artifacts, and information. I know the stories so was able to enjoy it, but it needs a good curator. The ferocity of the women who fought for women’s suffrage belies the whole “fairer sex” thing. They were jailed, force-fed, and maligned mercilessly - for decades. I do hope that at some point this national monument will be elevated.

    Conveniently, Saturday was the Democratic Party Convention for DC where delegates are chosen. It is an insiders game. You have to make your way over to the Convention Center to cast your ballot. I ran as a delegate in 1984 to represent Mondale. With the immense organizing by the Gertrude Stein Democratic Club, I came in second behind the sitting City Councilmember, Betty Ann Kane. Who the hell is this Ginenthal? This was the year of Jesse Jackson, so he captured the lion’s share of seats here in DC.

    “It’s me. Hi. I’m a French Cream Donut” beckoned for days. We finally gave in on Sunday. It was as delicious as it sounds. We walked it off (at least that is what I’m focusing on) going over to the National Museum of the American Indian on the mall. What used to be just small collections of a few of the 900 different tribes/nations on display is now an eloquent telling of the history of colonialism in the USA and Canada. Take a look at my photos. Recognize the dates? Highly recommend on your next visit to DC.

    We walked down to the Wharf area: a neighbourhood that didn’t exist when I lived here. Trendy restaurants and everything new. Along the way, we saw four women dressed in giant blow-up costumes. No party, no event. Just four kooky women out enjoying their day?

    Dinner in Chinatown at a very traditional restaurant where Bob is a known customer. They knew his regular order. Chinatown is not quite so cleaned up as most of the other areas we visited.
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  • Day 7

    Washington Day Three

    April 19 in the United States ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    A nice morning with a cup of coffee and good bagel and cream cheese. After a day in sandals and a skirt, today was downright chilly.

    We walked to the East Wing of National Gallery of Art where they house the modern collections. They had a woven arts exhibit. I love fabric art. Some showed home furnishing swatches and others sculptural pieces. The texture is the thing. The debate is is it craft or art. Seen traditionally as women’s work, its craft.

    The tunnel running between the East and National gallery is a work of art too. Very space age. I did a little shopping and had a nice lunch gazing at the underground waterfall.

    The National Gallery of Art, like most all the museums, is free. You can wander in for an hour or spend the whole day. Either way you get your money’s worth. I would spend many days wandering around discovering works and different corners of this museum. I visited some old favorites and, with Bob’s knowledge, learned more about what I was seeing.

    Late afternoon Bob and I took the Metro up through Ward 5 and 4. It is, again, nothing like when I lived here. Whole swaths of what was industrial land and rundown neighborhoods are entirely built up with apartments. None reach past the 10 stories limit dictated by the height of the Capitol Building. It makes this city so light not having tall shadows.

    We arrived at Chris and Judy’s home for dinner. Mary Jean was not far behind. As this is DC and these were my pals during my political career, conversations veered toward the state of the nation (USA, of course) and the tangle of political issues and pols.

    I find myself feeling more and more Canadian as the years tick by. Washington sees itself as the center of the nation and the world. When I lived in Portland, that “inside the beltway” mentality nearly disappeared in relevance and interest. Now in Victoria, I can see the consequences of living in a smaller-in-significance in terms of world power, nation. We can carve our own path modeled on our own values and culture looking to Europe first and US second; at least that’s my view. From immigration, abortion, guns, and media, the differences are pretty big. I’m happy for that.
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  • Day 5

    Washington DC Again

    April 17 in the United States ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

    Washington DC is beautiful this time of year. The weather is temperate; trees are that soft green with the dogwoods and azaleas showing off. Bob met me at Union Station for a short walk to his Capitol Hill apartment.

    Bob walks everywhere. He has never been a fan of bicycling and doesn’t own a car. Once I dumped my stuff, we headed off to the Eastern Market area for lunch. What strikes me about the city is all the men in suits and women in business skirts and dresses. I didn’t spy stockings, but everyone is dressed up like they are ready for a serious job interview. Shoes are shined and even sneakers are crisp and clean. I do remember this, but is has been a very long time.

    We made our way up the mall and on to Pennsylvania Avenue comparing political notes. We passed by the DC City Hall with a larger-than-life statue of the “Mayor for Life”, Marion Barry. Back in the mid-80s, I worked for his re-election campaign (slogan - Making a Great City Even Greater) and then in the Community Services office for a couple years. I learned a lot in my time as one of only a couple of white people in that office. I remember having very little to do at the time. Barry wanted us to lay low as the community hated him in that moment - which was a reoccurring theme. To keep busy I read about this new-fangled approach to keeping track of constituents - an Rbase database. I read the dense manual and built us a database that their office used for nearly ten years! Walking down memory lane.

    We were on our way over to be a part of the reenactment of the first White House picket for gay rights which was held on April 17, 1965. Yup, the 59th anniversary. Only one of the original picketers, Paul Kuntzler, was there to participate. I knew Paul back in the day when I was an officer and member of the Gertrude Stein Democratic Club. I also am recalling Dr. Frank Kameny, the founder of the Washington DC Mattachine Society - for gay rights. Frank was a cantankerous, tenacious, and generally right on target kind of fellow. He had been kicked out of the US Army for being gay. In a letter Kameny wrote to President Lyndon B. Johnson, he said, “We ask, Mr. President, for what all American citizens - singly and collectively - have the right to ask that our problems be given fair, unbiased consideration… consideration in which we, ourselves, are allowed to participate actively and are invited to do so.” I can hear his voice in this.

    Today, I visited with a dear friend and former mentor and boss, Mary Jean Collins. She and I along with Gail Gabler (my travelling pal) organized the Chicago ERA Reunion just before the pandemic. You can read about it in earlier blog posts of mine. Mary Jean was one of the leaders in NOW (National Organization for Women) from its inception in the 1960s. I had just read a book that outlines the history of the organization that centers itself on telling the chronology and story of NOW through three very different and very consequential leaders. Mary Jean is one of them.

    She has a political analysis that is steeped in a practical, positive and solutions-focused views. Her bookcases display both contemporary and historical non-fiction that informs her thinking. It was exhilarating to spend and hour and a half talking with and listening to her. It wasn’t all politics though. We got into talking about our families and health and getting old. Mary Jean is just a tad older than my mom - 84 years old. I forgot to take a photo - but I’m seeing her tomorrow night.

    Mary Jean lives just across the street from National Zoo. I used to visit the seals and sea lions all the time. I got to know their personalities and names. I felt like I needed to see them again. Since they only live about 20 to 25 years, none were the same individuals. More walking down memory lane.

    I caught up with Bob for lunch and a walk over to the National Museum for Women in the Arts. The newly renovated building was spectacular and the art was a wonderful smattering of styles and disciplines. I really enjoyed being in a really great museum. It’s something I miss in Victoria.

    Later that afternoon, Bob and I walked along Massachusetts Ave up to Logan Circle. It is unrecognizable. Highway 395 is partially buried and dozens of new buildings and green spaces have been erected. Some of the streets nearby would have been frightening when I lived here. While it is super nice to stroll, I do wonder where all those poorer families have gone.

    Bob had a bocce ball game with the Stonewall Bocce league. Couple hundred gay men in their colour-coded tees were clumped in their teams tossing balls and trying desperately to keep score while chattering. Since Portland doesn’t have a very large population of gay men, it was fun to be a spectator to all that. Boccesaurus Rex (Bob’s team) lost, kinda badly to a team that hadn’t yet won a game all season.

    I’m averaging over 18,000 steps every day after lots of sitting around at my dad’s. My dogs are tired.
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  • Day 1–5

    Ginenthal Extravaganza

    April 13 in the United States ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

    Robin, my sister, picked me up from the airport on her way down from Boston and the gabfest commenced. She’s my bestie. I got her up to date on my crazy last few weeks dealing with one issue after the next at Capital Bike. She shared her travails.

    An hour later, we arrived at my dad’s house in Jersey.

    Dad is 89, and has outlasted his identical twin brother by seven years. His mind is pretty sharp, but he naps a lot. Chris, his wife of more than 45 years, takes good care of him. It was really nice to see them together. Very sweet. I do wonder if this visit will be the last.

    Growing up I thought everyone had a piano in their living room. My dad has always loved playing. For most of my childhood I didn’t appreciate it. His music was schmaltzy and the lyrics were hilarious/embarrassing. “She’s an elegant woman. She has style and she has grace. When she comes into a room, it becomes a special place.” See what I mean?

    But now he doesn’t like to play. He doesn’t have the dexterity and stamina to sit for long at the keyboard. We did coax him, however, to play a little. The sound was so familiar and familial. It’s hard to see him so heartbroken.

    The next day, Michael, my twin brother, and his son, Andrew, arrived for a day trip from New York. Michael is a Jehovah’s Witness (JW) and how. His zealotry creates some family tensions. His son, Andrew is not a Witness. He lives in Harlem and puts together box furniture for a living. This was only the second time I’d seen him since he was 14. I’m not sure what makes him tick yet.

    We spent the day on the side patio soaking up the sunshine and trading new and old stories.

    Day two we all went to my half-brother, Jeremy and his family’s home. He’s a former JW which accounts for two separate Ginenthal gatherings. Michael and my two step-sisters adhere to the JW shunning rule. It’s pretty cruel really.

    Jeremy is a collector and seller of vintage video games. We ended up playing Slicing Fruit. It’s just like it sounds. You stand in front of the screen and try to karate chop the floating fruit that pop up. So silly. I’m not a gamer, but this was interactive and surprisingly fun.

    I’m eating too much. I think this whole vacation will be like that.

    Three days and four nights jam-packed and fun-filled with all manner of Ginenthals is good and good enough.

    ************************************************

    Robin, mi hermana, me recogió del aeropuerto durante su viaje desde Boston y empiece la charla. Ella es mi favorita. Le dije sobre las ultimas semanas locas superando uno asunto despues un otro con Capital Bike. Ella compartió sobre su penurias.

    Una hora más tarde, lleguemos a la casa de mi padre en Jersey.

    Mi padre tiene 89 años, y ha durado por siete años la vida de su gemelo. Su mente es bastante avispado, pero duerme mucho. Chris, su esposa por más de 45 anõs, le cuida muy bien. Fue muy agradable verlos juntos. Muy amable. Me pregunto si esta visita será la última.

    Durante mi niñez, pensaba que toda tenia un piano en su sala de estar. A mi padre, siempre le encantaba tocar. Por la mayoria de mi infancia, no lo apreciaba. Sus canciones eran sensibleras y las letras eran graciosísimas/embarazosas. “Ella es una mujer elegante. Tiene estilo y gracia. Cuando entre en una habitación, se vuelve un lugar especial.” ¿Entienden lo que digo?

    Ahora, no le gusta tocar. No tiene la habilidad y fuerza para asentar enfrente del piano por mucho tiempo. El sonido fue conocido y familiar. Es dificil para verlo tan descorazonado.

    El proximo dío, Miguel, mi mellizo, y su hijo, Andrew, llegaron de Nueva York para un viaje de un día. Miguel es un testigo de jehova. (JW) - y cómo. Su fevor creá unos estres familiares. Su hijo no es un testigo. Vive en Harlem y arma muebles de cajas para su trabajo. Este fue el segundo tiempo que he visto desde él tenía 14 años. No estoy seguro qué lo motiva.

    Pasamos el día afuera sentando en el sol y compartiendo historias nuevas y viejas.

    Día dos, fuimos a la casa de mi medio hermano, Jeremy y su familia. Él es un exJW, lo cual es la razón para dos fiestas separadas de Ginenthals. Miguel y mis dos hermanastras se adheren a la regla de rehuir. Es verdadero cruel.

    Jeremy colecta y vende juegos de videos. Jugamos “Cortar Fruta” Es exactamente cómo suena. Para enfrente de una pantalla y trata de cortar las frutas flotantes. Tan tonto. No soy una jugadora, pero fue interactivo y divertido.

    Estoy comiendo tanto. Pienso que todas estas vacaciones serán así.

    Tres días y cuatro noches lleno y divertido con los Ginenthal es bueno y suficiente.
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  • Pre-Trip Planning

    April 10 in Canada ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

    I’ve been so busy these last few months with my board responsibilities at Capital Bike, I’ve hardly had the opportunity to do much planning. Luckily, I’m travelling with Sheryl who has mapped out our 11 days together in Mexico City. My travel pal, Gail Gabler is joining us for Sheryl’s last four days and will stay on with me for another six days. Then I’ll be on my own for three days. Maybe a birding trip will be in my future.

    We get picked up at the ungodly hour of 4:20am on Saturday. Not looking forward to that, but it means I’ll be at my dad’s in time for dinner.

    Thanks for coming along with me.

    *****************************

    He estado tan ocupado estos últimos meses con mis responsabilidades en el comité de Capital Bike, que apenas he tenido la oportunidad de hacer mucha planificación. Afortunadamente, estoy viajando con Sheryl, quien ha planeado nuestros 11 días juntos en la Ciudad de México. Mi amiga de viaje, Gail Gabler, nos unirá durante los últimos cuatro días de Sheryl y se quedará conmigo durante otros seis días. Luego estaré sola durante tres días. Tal vez un viaje de observación de pájaros esté en mi futuro.

    Nos recogen a la hora horrible a las 4:20 am del sábado. No tengo muchas ganas de eso, pero significa que estaré en casa de mi padre a tiempo para la cena.

    Gracias por acompañarme.
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  • Day 51

    Home

    May 20, 2023 in Canada ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    Thirty-six hours traveling and seven weeks away from home - four countries, 20 different places to sleep and even more places visited, I will need much time to process all that I experienced, learned, felt, and realized. I will continue to start collecting these bits in other posts as I can. I am feeling deeply enriched and exhausted.Read more

  • Day 49

    Madrid

    May 18, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

    We squeezed as much joy out of our last day together on vacation - is it really vacation if one is retired? I don’t know.

    In any case, it was the Día del Museo! All museums were free today. We started strolling from our hotel on the Puerta del Sol past some pretty spectacular buildings. What is it with magnificent ministry buildings? There were two of the most outstanding ones for the ministry of agriculture, go figure. Loved it.

    First museum up: Thyssen-Bornemisza. I do love this art museum. It is a private collection donated to Madrid. It is organized chronologically. I skipped the early stuff and started with 19th century works. Exquisite collection. Eloquent curation and storytelling. Gail isn’t as much a museum person but… it was the day of museums!

    Next up was the Prado. I went in and Gail found a sunny spot to read. After about 2 hours in the Thyssen, I was just a bit too overloaded so I whizzed through some of the collections. Pretty amazing.

    I collected Gail and we went in search of a chocolate donut that Sheryl and I had the last time we were in Madrid 20 years ago. I remember it was near the train station so off we went. We didn’t find the donut but we did find some giant and slightly disturbing baby heads. I only took a shot of the sleeping one. The awake one looked maniacal. There are baby heads in front of the Boston art museum. Another question. What is up with that?

    One more museum. Gail insisted that I see Guernica by Picasso which is housed in the Reina Sophia. They have a huge collection of resistance posters and artworks helping to place the work in its proper context. So heartbreaking.

    On our last night we had dinner with some friends of Gail’s from her days in Nicaragua in the early 80’s (after our work together in Chicago for the ERA). They spoke only Spanish. Miguel, an author, Isaac, a professor, and a lovely woman (I can’t remember her name - Gail? Help me out here). The four of them plus one more had lived together in a big house in Nicaragua while organizing in support of the socialist government. Heady times. We talked about Spanish politics, US politics (it is like a train wreck - everyone just can’t look away) and a bit of old times. As a professor, Isaac was pretty easy to understand as was the woman. Miguel, not so much. He spoke very quickly and had a thick accent dropping ends of words and substituting “th” for “c”. I got about a third of what he talked about. It was fun to experience the language outside of a transaction or learning environment and just enjoy the conversation. They were so interesting in all the ways old friends with political leanings can be. It was fun to participate and watch these comrades argue and laugh together.

    After dinner, Isaac walked Gail and I home, sort of. He took us on a tour of some pretty special historic buildings and memorials telling stories of the deep history of the place. At over 25,000 steps and a plane to catch the next day, we bid farewell at about 11:30pm. I’ll sleep on the plane.

    In the morning, Gail got up (she has one more day in Madrid) to get me to the metro station. We had a teary goodbye, and I was on my way home - in just 36 hours. On my way.
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  • Day 47

    Valencia

    May 16, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    It took us all day, three cabs and three long train trips to get from Granada to Valencia through Córdoba where we spent an hour looking for coffee and breakfast.

    But we arrived to enjoy relaxing days at the beach. Our hotel abutted the silky smooth sandy beach that reminded us of the Moroccan dunes.

    Gail had never been in the Mediterranean Sea and I realized I had never swum in it either. The water was sooo pleasant. Cool enough and perfect after sitting in the sun.

    It was really nice not to have an agenda for the two days save my quest for good paella. You could get it on the strip of restaurants just outside our hotel, but I had scoped out where to get some good traditional Valencian paella which has chicken and rabbit. It was very good (although the rabbit was a bit dry). You could only order it for two, so I got the whole thing and had it every day for lunch. Num num.

    On day two, I rented a bike share bike to ride through the Central Park that snaked its way to the old quarter. It used to be a riverbed, but flooding made them rethink things. The magnificent aquarium and Museum of Arts and Sciences dominated the south end. The architecture of both places contained these enormous shallow pools. It felt very much like a waterway.

    On the recommendation of my sister, we visited the Fallero Museum. Each neighborhood in Valencia enters a paper mache and plastic large and small sculptures to this annual competition and festival. The winning sculpture is displayed here and the losers are burned in a spectacular blaze. Sounds wild and a bit toxic. Burning man?

    I could feel the pull of home here and also the beginnings of separation anxiety as we reached the end of a month traveling together with Gail.

    I could see living here in Valencia. It has beach, old city, interesting neighborhoods and great food. Or at least spend a whole week.

    Tomorrow is our final stop in Madrid.
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