Canberra, The Nations Capital
20–21 nov. 2023, Australia ⋅ ☁️ 25 °C
Monday - After a day of hectic packing on Sunday with multiple double checks we still left some things behind at home. Colin Terry our builder arrived at 09:00 to discuss the completion of the downstairs laundry-bathroom and Colleen Weir, our friend, arrived to discuss plant care with Sylvie. Finally, at 10:30 we were able to get on the road. Along the way stopping at Bernie and Christine’s in Wolumla to collect some clock pieces for Wayne Bruce at work (defence) and then to Cooma for a light lunch with Lindy and Malcolm Rose. We arrived in Canberra around 15:00. This evening, a light Thai meal was shared with Tiaan, in the “Rice Tapas Bar” in Canberra Center. Tonight, we are very tired and happy to get to bed.Leer más
Sydney International Airport
21–22 nov. 2023, Australia ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C
Tuesday – Wal was out of bed at 07:00 to take the clock bits, from Bernie, to Wayne at Russell offices and then took the car to Braddon service station for a wash, where halfway through the wash cycle the machine broke and he had to back the car out. Not a good feeling being stuck in a hot car surrounded by a machine. Very claustrophobic. Back in the apartment we shared a coffee and ate all leftover food for breakfast. At 10:00 Sarah Weir (daughter of Colleen and Peter) arrived to collect the apartment keys and take us to Canberra station, in Kingston, for the 11:45 train to Sydney. A slow trip on this rail line which is a left over from a bygone era. At Sydney Central after asking for directions for the airport train it was an easy transition to our hotel the "Novotel International Airport". An interesting comparison, the airport train cost $25.88pp and the Inter City Express (ICE) train from Frankfurt to Leipzig a four-hour journey cost €4.80pp (AU$8.00). Before dinner we enjoyed a cocktail at the bar to celebrate our long-awaited departure before having a lovely meal and going to bed early.Leer más
Hanoi Vietnam
22–23 nov. 2023, Vietnam ⋅ ⛅ 26 °C
Wednesday – What a morning! We had a fitful sleep and eventually I got up and opened the curtains to find full sunshine. Good grief it was 10:00 and we had to leave the hotel at 11:00. We rushed around but were in time to get the bus at 10:55. At Sydney International Airport we waited 90 minutes in the Business Class line. Check in was quick. The Business Class lounge was nearly empty, and we were able to share our time with a couple from Tweed Heads. Boarding Business Class on Vietnam Airlines VN0786 to Hanoi was a pleasurable experience as was the comfort, ability to sleep and enjoy the many tasty snacks and meals. We arrived in Hanoi at 21:00 for a short wait until 23:30 for our flight VN0037 to Frankfurt. This was a 12 hour flight. More food and sleep. Read my book, nothing interesting in the movies. It was the first time that I witnessed Sylvie slumber off on a long plane trip.Leer más
Leipzig Europe's Largest Railway Station
23 de noviembre de 2023, Alemania ⋅ 🌬 8 °C
Thursday - After a reasonably comfortable flight we arrived at Frankfurt International Airport at 06:15, The train to Leipzig was on time as expected in Germany and after shoveling our heavy suitcases around we were able to settle down to a comfortable trip, arriving in Leipzig at 12:15. Brigitte and Andreas waiting on the platform welcomed us with bear hugs. The car trip to the apartment was very quick as Leipzig is not a big city and it is possible to walk from the train station to their apartment. Lunch was chocolate biscuits followed by a walk into Leipzig city center. We visited the two main churches, the Nikolai church and the Saint Peters church, and then wandered around the streets until dark. Mind you it gets dark at 17:00 in winter and very cold so we returned home for a light meal and friendly dialogue. We’re all tired and Sylvie fell asleep at the table, something she has never done before. Early night today.
Leipzig Origins
Leipzig was first documented in 1015 in the chronicles of Bishop Thietmar of Merseburg as urbs Libzi and endowed with city and market privileges in 1165 by Otto the Rich. Leipzig Trade Fair, started in the Middle Ages, has become an event of international importance and is the oldest surviving trade fair in the world. There are records of commercial fishing operations on the river Pleiße that, most likely, refer to Leipzig dating back to 1305, when the Margrave Dietrich the Younger granted the fishing rights to the church and convent of St Thomas. There were a number of monasteries in and around the city, including a Franciscan monastery after which the Barfußgäßchen (Barefoot Alley) is named and a monastery of Irish monks (Jacobskirche, destroyed in 1544) near the present day Ranstädter Steinweg (the old Via Regia). The University of Leipzig was founded in 1409 and Leipzig developed into an important center of German law and of the publishing industry in Germany, resulting, in the 19th and 20th centuries, with the Reichsgericht (Imperial Court of Justice) and the German National Library being located here. During the Thirty Years' War, two battles took place in Breitenfeld, about 8 km (5 mi) outside Leipzig city walls. The first battle took place in 1631 and the second in 1642. Both battles resulted in victories for the Swedish-led side. On 24 December 1701, when Franz Conrad Romanus was mayor, an oil-fueled street lighting system was introduced. The city employed light guards who had to follow a specific schedule to ensure the punctual lighting of the 700 lanterns.Leer más
Leipzig Oldest University in Europe
24 de noviembre de 2023, Alemania ⋅ ☁️ 4 °C
Friday – As expected we had a restless night, waking at 02:00 and again at 05:00; I then started reading my book and Sylvie followed. Sharp at 07:30 Andreas appeared with our morning wake up coffee to get us started for the day. Today we walked into town and along the way Brigitte and Andreas pointed out all significant buildings, including explanations about how the East German DDR communist party destroyed many historical sites to replace with ugly communist style cement and glass structures. Our walk included a small market where I was able to buy Dutch herring rolls. Lekker!!!!! By days end it was cold with dark ominous clouds turning to wet snow on the way home. Glad to be inside and get out of our wet clothes and shoes. Another early night, we are both tired. We haven’t really sat and had the long evening chats which we did on previous visits.
“Leipzig; Upper Saxon, with a population of 628,718 inhabitants as of 2023, is the most populous city in the German state of Saxony, the second-most populous city in the area of the former East Germany after (East) Berlin, and Germany's eighth-most populous. Leipzig/Halle Airport is situated in Schkeuditz, between Leipzig and Halle (Saale). The name of the city and those of many of its districts are of Slavic origin. Leipzig is located about 150 km southwest of Berlin, in the southernmost part of the North German Plain (the Leipzig Bay), at the confluence of the White Elster and its tributaries Pleiße and Parthe, that form an extensive inland delta in the city known as "Leipziger Gewässerknoten", along which Leipzig Riverside Forest, Europe's largest intra-city riparian forest has developed. Leipzig is at the center of Neuseenland (new lake district), consisting of several artificial lakes created from former lignite open-pit mines. Leipzig has been a trade city since the time of the Holy Roman Empire. The city sits at the intersection of the Via Regia and the Via Imperii, two important medieval trade routes. Leipzig's trade fair dates back to 1190. Between 1764 and 1945, the city was a center of publishing. After the Second World War and during the period of the German Democratic Republic (East Germany) Leipzig remained a major urban center in East Germany. Events in Leipzig in 1989 played a significant role in precipitating the fall of communism in Central and Eastern Europe, mainly through demonstrations starting from St. Nicholas Church. The immediate effects of the reunification of Germany included the collapse of the local economy (which had come to depend on highly polluting heavy industry), severe unemployment, and urban blight. By the early 2000s the trend had reversed, and since then Leipzig has undergone some significant changes, including urban and economic rejuvenation, and modernization of the transport infrastructure.”Leer más
Leipzig - City of Learning and Culture
25 de noviembre de 2023, Alemania ⋅ ☁️ 3 °C
Saturday – Our waking routine is now set, every morning coffee in bed at 07:30, up at 8:30 for breakfast followed by ablutions and then to start the day. Today we visited the Federal Supreme Court with a German speaking group tour. The guide spoke so rapidly that not even the Germans could all understand him and there was no hope for me or Sylvie. Notwithstanding the court is a lovely and historic building lucky to survive the ravages of war and Communist willful destruction of historic sites. The building was commenced in 1879 and survived WW2 with minimal damage. During the DDR (Deutsche Demokratische Republik) or (German Democratic Republic) period the building was used as a museum of fine arts. Our next call was at the new university, the original founded in 1409 was demolished in 1968 by Walter Ulbricht (communist) to make way for a cold ugly socialist structure. Before returning home in sleet and rain we stopped for a welcome coffee and cake in Café Waldi.
Leipzig University
Leipzig University, is one of the world's oldest universities and the second-oldest university in Germany. The university was founded on 2 December 1409 by Frederick I, Elector of Saxony and his brother William II, Margrave of Meissen, and originally comprised four scholastic faculties. Since its inception, the university has engaged in teaching and research for over 600 years without interruption. The university was modelled on the University of Prague, from which the German-speaking faculty members withdrew to Leipzig after the Jan Hus crisis and the Decree of Kutná Hora. The Alma mater Lipsiensis ("almae matres" is a Latin phrase meaning 'nourishing mother') opened in 1409, after it had been officially chartered by Pope Alexander V in his Bull of Acknowledgment. Its first rector was Johannes Otto von Münsterberg. From its foundation, the Paulinerkirche served as the university church. After the Reformation, the church and the monastery buildings were donated to the university in 1544. In order to secure independent and sustainable funding, the university was endowed with the lordship over nine villages east of Leipzig (university villages). It kept this status for nearly 400 years until land reforms were carried out in the 19th century. Famous alumni include Angela Merkel, Gottfried Wilhelm von Leibniz, Johann Wolfgang von Goethe, Friedrich Nietzsche, Robert Schumann, Richard Wagner. The university is associated with ten Nobel laureates, most recently with Svante Pääbo who won the Nobel Prize for Medicine in 2022.Leer más
Leipzig - the home of Auerbach's Cellar
26 de noviembre de 2023, Alemania ⋅ ☁️ 2 °C
Sunday – A much slower start today. After breakfast we drove to the village where Brigitte’s mother and sister live and where the mobile home is garaged. Following a look at the motor home on the way back to the apartment we also stopped at the Russian Remembrance church but couldn’t really go in as there was a church service under way. A relaxing afternoon with the Johann Sebastian Bach organ recital at 16:00 in the Gewandhaus. The recital went for one hour, but being totally submersed in the music, the time passed very quickly. For dinner Brigitte had reserved a place at the 600-year-old famous Auerbachs keller. A wonderful experience with fabulous regional food which of course included a lot of pork and a beer or two. No entrée or desert but we were well satisfied after the meal. Our walk home was cold but quick. The night ended with a drink to warm us up before going to bed.
Auerbach's Cellar
A wine bar at the site was mentioned in historical records dated 1438. The present-day restaurant is located below the Mädlerpassage, a historic covered passage built from 1912 to 1914 at Grimmaische Strasse 2 in Leipzig's historical district. The restaurant has five historical dining rooms: the Fasskeller (Barrel Cellar), Lutherzimmer (Luther Room), Goethezimmer (Goethe Room), Alt-Leipzig (Old Leipzig), and, since 1913, the Großer Keller (Large Cellar). There is also the Mephisto Bar on the floor above available for drinks. The Mädlerpassage replaced the former Auerbachs Hof, a trade fair building complex, erected about 1530 at the behest of Heinrich Stromer (1482–1542), city councillor, professor of medicine, and rector of Leipzig University. Stromer was familiarly called Doctor Auerbach after his birthplace, the town of Auerbach in the Bavarian Upper Palatinate region. When he re-opened the already existing wine vault in the basement rooms, the bar quickly adopted his name. Young Goethe often visited Auerbach's Cellar while studying at Leipzig University from 1765 to 1768 and called it his favourite wine bar. He saw there two paintings on wood dating from 1625, one depicting the legendary magician and astrologer Johann Georg Faust drinking with students and the other showing him riding out the door astride a wine barrel. Goethe was already familiar with the Faust legend from his youth. Between 1912 and 1913 much of Auerbach's Cellar was reconstructed and expanded as part of the demolition of the medieval construction above it and the erection of the Mädlerpassage. It was reopened on 22 February 1913, which is also the date when the two sculptures Mephisto and Faust and Bewitched Students were placed at the entrance.Leer más
Leipzig – Napoleons Battle of the Nation
27 de noviembre de 2023, Alemania ⋅ ☁️ 5 °C
Leipzig – Napoleons Battle of the Nations
Monday – Wal’s (Kees’) birthday. Brigitte and Andreas woke us up with a coffee and a birthday candle and gift, a beautiful photo in frame. There were many birthday messages which required a response, so we stayed in bed a lot longer. After our standard breakfast of orange juice, coffee, bread rolls, cheese and cut meats, we had our shower and departed for the Volkerschlacht-denkmal military memorial. This is the battlefield where Napoleon’s army, in October 1813, was defeated by the combined forces of Austria, Prussia, Sweden and Russia. The battle involved 560,000 soldiers with 133,000 casualties. This was known as the "Battle of the Nations". Inside the memorial we took the 364 steps to the top for a magnificent view of the surrounding countryside. Before going home, we stopped at the railway station to confirm our train bookings to Stuttgart. To our dismay the train we had booked and paid for in Australia had been cancelled but no notification sent to us. To arrange another service, we had to pay an extra fifty euro on the basis that we had made a change to our bookings and on top of that there were only first-class seats still available. The whole attitude from DB was very unprofessional and disappointing. Lunch was at home followed by a relaxing and welcome quiet afternoon as the snow continued to lazily drift down.
The Monument to the Battle of the Nations
German: Völkerschlachtdenkmal, is a monument to the Battle of Leipzig fought between 16 and 19 October 1813, also known as the Battle of the Nations, and was built between 1898 and 1913. The monument commemorates the defeat of Napoleon's French army at Leipzig, a crucial step towards the end of hostilities in the War of the Sixth Coalition. The coalition armies of Russia, Prussia, Austria and Sweden were led by Tsar Alexander I of Russia and Karl Philipp, Prince of Schwarzenberg. There were Germans fighting on both sides, as Napoleon's troops also included conscripted Germans from the left bank of the Rhine annexed by France, as well as troops from his German allies of the Confederation of the Rhine. About half a million soldiers were involved and at the end of the battle, around 110,000 men had lost their lives, with many more dying in the days after in field hospitals in and around the city. The scope of the fighting was unprecedented. The Battle of the Nations was the decisive one in the war, cementing the French defeat and temporarily ending Napoleon's rule. The Emperor was exiled to Elba in May 1814, but briefly returned to power the following year, before being permanently banished following his defeat at the Battle of Waterloo. The monument is 91 meters tall and contains over 500 steps to a viewing platform at the top, from which there are views across the city and environs. The monument is said to stand on the spot of some of the bloodiest fighting, from where Napoleon ordered the retreat of his army.Leer más
Leipzig - Trade Fair and Culture Centre
28 de noviembre de 2023, Alemania ⋅ 🌫 -1 °C
Tuesday – Up a little earlier this morning for our guided tour through Leipzig. The English-speaking guide, Sam came from Bendigo and Melbourne in Australia. A delightful young character, true Aussie, with Leipzig heritage. (Brigitte and Andrea were to see Sam again in Melbourne, where he was leading a guided tour in German, in January 24, three months later) His tour of Leipzig took us from the Gewandhaus in Augustusplatz to the university with the rebuild church front, the St Thomas Church, the city center, the old townhall, the stock exchange, the Nikolas church and finished with the Christmas markets. During the tour light snow continued to fall. As soon as the tour was finished, we walked back to the markets for a fish roll “broodje” for lunch. Lovely, cold, and all the produce covered in snow. After lunch we all went to look for new boots which were warmer and didn't leak and bought shoes for Sylvie and me. We enjoyed the evening city atmosphere and walked home in light snowfalls. How I miss this atmosphere in Australia!! Dinner at home, a couple of drinks and early night to bed at 22:00.
St. Thomas Church
Constructed in Leipzig, Germany, in the early thirteenth century by the Augustinian monastic order, Thomaskirche, or St. Thomas Church, has been the site of several of Leipzig's most important cultural and historical events. The church initially operated as a monastery before housing the University of Leipzig in the fifteenth century and the St. Thomas school in the sixteenth century. In 1539 Martin Luther introduced religious reform to Leipzig while preaching at the church. Bach served as choirmaster at Thomaskirche from 1723 until his death in 1750, and many notable composers, including Mozart, performed there. Originally constructed in the Romanesque style, the building was later altered in the Gothic period. Romanesque features are still present in the building and can be found in a window on the north side of the choir, portions of the lower floor of the tower, the crossings, arches, and corbels. The church roof, set to 63 degrees and dating to 1486, was an engineering feat in its era. The steep-pitched front gabled roof has been, and continues to be, an enduring feature of the Leipzig skyline. The church tower was damaged during the Second World War and later restored.
Thomaskirche holds both historical and architectural significance. Important historical figures, as well as monumental events, were associated with the structure. The church is a striking example of Romanesque and Gothic architecture in the region and the roof—innovative for its time—remains a unique feature of the building and the cityscape.Leer más
Liebertwolkwitz - “Zum Schwarzen Ross"
29 de noviembre de 2023, Alemania ⋅ ☁️ 2 °C
Wednesday – Getting out of bed a bit later today with a delightfully slow breakfast. The plan was to walk around the artists quarter, the horse racing track, the wealthy quarter and the heavily barricaded US Embassy. Along the way we bought focaccia from the French bakery and came home for lunch. It was a good long walk but at times the weather was quite bitter and cold. We had a slow afternoon before going to the Gasthof “Zum Schwarzen Ross” in Liebertwolkwitz. Interestingly this is the area that Brigitte and Andreas come from, and Brigitte’s mother used to help in the restaurant whilst Brigitte would go to the cinema which is upstairs. This was during the post war years of communist east Germany (DDR). Andreas also came from here, went to school here, and his grandfather had two shoe shops in Leipzig. Brigittes family still live in the area. The weather has been particularly cold and threatening snow today.
1813
Liebertwolkwitz has 282 inhabitants.
October/Battle of the Nations. On 11 October, French soldiers bivouac at the windmill of Helm and Altner. They sprinkle the road to Grimma by building redoubts. On the morning of 14 October, a cavalry battle took place near the village between the French and Russian-Prussian, and later also Austrian, units. There is also fighting inside the village in the area of the church and the cemetery. 60 houses go up in flames on this day; with the exception of 5 or 10 people, all Liebertwolkwitz residents leave the place. On 15 October, Napoleon explores the terrain on the heights near Liebertwolkwitz. In the fighting of the following days, the French are forced out of the village, with the Windmühlengasse being particularly affected. The village had to suffer heavy looting by both French infantry and Russian Cossacks. On 19 October, the Commander-in-Chief of the Allied troops, Prince Schwarzenberg, is able to deliver the news of victory to the rulers of Russia, Austria and Prussia, Tsar Alexander I, Emperor Francis I and King Frederick III, who have gathered on the "Leipziger Berg". From 20 October, the return of the residents to the destroyed village begins. By the end of the year, 54 people had died of disease, hunger and deprivation. The total material damage that Liebertwolkwitz suffered in the fighting is estimated at exactly 113817 thalers and 4 groschen.Leer más
Leipzig - Christmas Markets
30 de noviembre de 2023, Alemania ⋅ ☁️ 1 °C
Thursday – Another easy-going day with an unhurried start to the morning. Outside there is still quite a lot of snow and it was cold. Putting on gloves and shoes with chilled fingers and toes presented some difficulties. At midday we walked into town following the “Music Trail”, with Brigitte and Andreas pointing out places of interest. In Leipzig city the Christmas markets are in full swing and before proceeding we first stopped for a sausage and gluhwein (we actually stopped for gluhwein quite often). We also bought a small gift for Liesl and then made our way to a department store to purchase some new underwear and skivvies for me. By now the snow was falling consistently so we wound our way back through the various Christmas stalls, stopping for another herring for Wal, potato cake for Sylvie and gluhwein for all. The evening meal was spelt pasta followed by ice cream for dessert. Bed at 22:00, and the snow continues to fall and cloak the city in a beautiful white mantle.
The Leipzig Christmas Market (Leipziger Weihnachtsmarkt) is one of the oldest Christmas markets in Germany. It takes place annually from the end of November to 23 December on Leipzig's market square and the adjacent streets and, with around 300 stalls and, is one of the largest Christmas markets in Germany. Its history goes back to 1458. In notes by Johann Jacob Vogel from 1714 there is the note: "Anno 1458. Frederick II, Elector of Saxony, Marggraff of Meissen and Hertzog of Saxony publicly advertised the Weynachtsmarckt and the city because of the loyal service rendered as shown to him by the council and the citizens." The market offers several areas, including a fairytale land for children on Augustusplatz, a historical market on Naschmarkt, a nativity scene with real sheep, an 8 meters tall Ore Mountains Christmas pyramid on Nikolaikirchhof and a Finnish village on Augustusplatz. On the market square there is the approximately 20 meters tall Christmas fir, usually a spruce from the region. The South Tyrolean village is a popular meeting point during the Christmas market. Tyrolean dishes are served while listening to Alpine music. The historic carousel is a special attraction of the Christmas market.Leer más
Leipzig - A Place We Adore
1 de diciembre de 2023, Alemania ⋅ ☁️ -1 °C
Friday – Temperature is between minus four and minus two today. We woke to a winter wonderland; the snow had continued throughout the night. After breakfast we prepacked our suitcases in preparation for tomorrows Stuttgart departure. The day plan was just for the Christmas markets tonight and to do some ironing, pack our belongings and write the diary. It was a very pleasant to relax and just chat with Brigitte and Andreas. Outside the snowy wonderland continues to become more beautiful as the white flakes drift down past the window whilst we are inside our warm cocoon. Temperatures are getting colder and well into the minus’. Evening meal was a satisfying pizza from a local restaurant. An early night as we can’t linger in the morning.Leer más
Farewell Lovely Leipzig, Hello Stuttgart
2 de diciembre de 2023, Alemania ⋅ ☁️ -2 °C
Saturday – Although the alarm was set for 07:00 Andreas arrived early with our morning coffee. We didn’t stay in bed for long and joined our hosts for a breakfast of bread rolls, cheese and ham. While Sylvie was in the bathroom, I packed my computer and did a final cupboard check. The trip to the railway station was subdued but very quick and with time to spare we stood and listened to a band playing Christmas music. Once on the train we were informed about connection issues from Frankfurt to Stuttgart. Our only choice was to stay on the train to Mannheim and then take a local Inter City Express (ICE) to Stuttgart. Currently the ever-efficient German railways are a disorganized mess. Railway control is slack, nobody checked tickets and people sat where they wanted. Seat allocations mean nothing. On arrival at Stuttgart station Martin was waiting on the platform looking anxious. Dinner tonight with Diana, Angelika and dog Lolik. Lovely meal and great company. We left and walked home at 23:30. A decent sleep tonight.
One of the most beloved foods in Germany that tourists go home talking about is Spaetzle, the famous German egg noodles from the Baden-Württemberg region of southwest Germany. This area is also known as Schwabenland, or Swabia. Swabia is home to some of Germany’s best food and many will argue it’s home to the best food in all of Germany. Swabia is known for its soups, sauces, meats, wursts, and salads, to name a few. It’s also home to some unique varieties of pasta including Spätzle, Schupfnudeln and Maultaschen. Spätzle, a Swabian specialty is also enjoyed in Austria and Switzerland. Spaetzle is a special type of egg noodle that is enjoyed with sauces and gravies as well as incorporated into a variety of different dishes. One example is Käsespätzle (a cheese spatzle casserole with crispy fried onions). Where did the name “Spätzle” originate? It comes from the German word Spatzen, meaning “little sparrows”, because that’s what they were thought to resemble when they were traditionally made by hand.Leer más
Stuttgart - Fernsehturm (TV Tower)
3 de diciembre de 2023, Alemania ⋅ ☀️ 0 °C
Sunday – Outside it’s a snowy and cold day but it’s not raining and will be perfect for walking. Martin had organised a typical German breakfast with cereal, bread, cheese and meat and of course lots of coffee. Our first destination using the tram was Fernsehturm (TV Tower) on the high ground above Stuttgart. The views are spectacular and on a fine day it is possible to see as far as the Black Forest. The temperature at the top though was quite bitter and with the wind well below freezing. Walking from the tower back to the tram through the snow-covered forest was a magical return to my childhood, awakening memories long forgotten. Our next stop was the lookout at Eugensplatz with great views over the city and distant vineyards, this was followed with the Weisenburgerpark lookout and then a long walk through the forest along the Alte Weinsteige to the Tea House, which was unfortunately closed. By dark, which is quite early in wintertime Germany, we reached the Christmas markets in Stuttgart's Schlossplatz with the wonderful old castle in the background. A quiet evening at home with a glass of wine. Martin lives a more spartan existence and also goes to bed much earlier so we were always guaranteed a good long sleep.
Fernsehturm (TV Tower)
The tower is located on the hill Hoher Bopser (elevation 483 meters) in the southern Stuttgart borough of Degerloch. From the observation decks there is a view of Stuttgart, from the forests and vineyards in and around Stuttgart to the Swabian Jura and the Black Forest. The Waldau-Stadion (Gazi-Stadion auf der Waldau) is located near the tower; games played there are often described as "under the TV tower" or "in the shade of the TV tower". The tower's construction was controversial – critics opposed the new building method and its costs; a simple 200-meter antenna array would have cost just 200,000 DM. Construction began on 10 January 1954 and continued for 20 months. This made it the first telecom tower in the world built with reinforced concrete. The construction cost was 4.2 million DM. Revenues from visitors reached that sum within five years. The tower was placed in service on 5 February 1956 by Süddeutscher Rundfunk (today Südwestrundfunk) It was part of the German state visit of Queen Elizabeth II of the United Kingdom in May 1965. The tower reached its current height of 216.61 m (710.7 ft) after the antenna was extended from October 1965 to December 1965.Leer más
Stuttgart - New Station and Library
4 de diciembre de 2023, Alemania ⋅ ☁️ 0 °C
Monday – A much slower start getting up at 08:30 and following a relaxed breakfast we walked into the city Centre, taking the tram to the old suburbs and Bosch area. Disappointingly the cable car, a wooden funicular, which leads to the cemetery, was not working today, so we trammed back to the city for lunch in a very pleasant small but very full restaurant. More city walking to the famous bakery and then the new library next to the railway station. It’s a large imposing building painted all white inside and out. Modern, quite spectacular, but it doesn’t talk to me, but Sylvie was impressed. More interesting is the new railway station which is being constructed. We spend an hour or more looking at the displays. Bus back home to a solid vegetable soup with wine and later a tea. Slept well tonight.
Funicular Railway Stuttgart - Stuttgart's most beautiful weird thing: the tranquil funicular in the Heslach district, which takes you from Südheimer Platz to the Waldfriedhof, is an endearing remnant from the past. A carriage hangs from each end of the 550-metre-long steel cable. Almost noiselessly, one glides upwards on the bare rails, the other comes towards it. Lots of teak, brass and enamel transport you back in time to the 1920s on the track, which has a gradient of up to 28 percent. It is a matter of honour that the SSB is keen to preserve this living piece of urban history. To experience such a means of transport not in the high mountains but in the state capital Stuttgart is a distinct rarity. The Stuttgart cable car is almost completely presented as an original ensemble in the condition of the opening year 1929 and is a listed building. Even then, it was Germany's first funicular with automatic control (at the push of a button by the car attendant), and the fastest. Since then, it has been running like clockwork. So the SSB funicular is more than just an ordinary means of transport in the Stuttgart transport network: a fascinating technical monument with a complete historical ambience, a traditional means of transport and an absolute must for your visit to Stuttgart.Leer más
Heidelberg - Roman Foundations
5 de diciembre de 2023, Alemania ⋅ ☁️ 6 °C
Tuesday – Today it’s Heidelberg. Alarm went off at 07:00 followed by normal coffee and basic breakfast and a shower. Martin has the travel timing down to a tee; we were waiting only a few minutes before the tram arrived and were at the railway station in quick time. The German railway (DB) system is in a mess at the moment but eventually we got a train to Heidelberg. First impressions are that there’s not much left of the old town, after the second war bombings, as we walked along the main pedestrian street. Many similar shops to Australia. We never found the old quarter but located a lovely hotel for lunch. During lunch the weather turned to a sleety rain. After lunch we walked through the Christmas market, had a warming glass of gluhwein and continued to the castle atop of the hill. It’s a long steep slope up but well worth the effort. Inside it has a stark beauty, heavy with history and the story of the huge wine barrel. As dark was falling and the castle closing, we returned to the railway station and caught the train home at 17:30 to enjoy another meal of Martin’s soup and a glass of wine. In bed and asleep by 22:30.
The first settlement of Heidelberg can be traced back to Roman and Celtic times. First mentioned in 1196, Heidelberg was planned and built, together with the castle, in the 13th century. Heidelberg's heyday as the capital of the Electoral Palatinate began not least with the foundation of the university – the oldest in Germany – in 1386. Towards the end of the 17th century, during the War of the Palatinate Succession, the city and the castle were destroyed by the French. The city retained its medieval ground plan but was rebuilt in the Baroque style. In 1803 Heidelberg passed to Baden and became an important university town and a popular tourist destination – also for poets and philosophers, such as Friedrich Hölderlin, Clemens Brentano, and Joseph von Eichendorff, who made Heidelberg the "City of Romanticism". In 1945 Heidelberg was taken by American forces without major destruction and subsequently became the headquarters of the US Army in Europe and of NATO. The building of the university campus at "Neuenheimer Feld" in 1951 finally sealed its claim to being a city of science. It was only logical that this was followed by the establishment of a technology park in 1984. Around 80 companies and research establishments make this science campus one of the world's foremost biotechnology centres. In the last few years, a new district took shape near the city centre on the site of the old freight station: hence its name Bahnstadt which means "Railway City". Bahnstadt is currently the biggest passive house settlement in the world: 12,000 people will live, work and do their research here in the near future. Many projects are in the process of implementation. Some, like the Zollhofgarten day-care centre, have been realised already. Others are just about to begin. The conversion areas of the US Army, for example, provide unique opportunities for housing, cultural events or the resettlement of companies. The development of an area of almost 200 hectares needs careful planning - the assistance of the citizens of Heidelberg is therefore of great importance.Leer más
Heidelberg Historic Castle
5 de diciembre de 2023, Alemania ⋅ ☁️ 6 °C
The Heidelberg Castle has a fascinating history that dates back to the early 13th century. The earliest structure was constructed in 1214 and continued expanding until it became two castles. It was first used as a royal residence by Prince Elector Ruprecht III, the King of Germany during a short period in the early 15th century. Originally a fortified castle with outer defensive walls, Heidelberg Castle continued to expand into a combination of several buildings. Succeeding Prince Electors of the Palatinate built several residential halls, which resulted in the property looking like a mix of a castle and palace. Unfortunately, the castle also suffered a lot of damage. In the 17th century the château was twice bombarded and destroyed by General Mélac's French forces ,in 1689 and 1693, during the Nine Years War, the War of the League of Augsburg. Parts of it were rebuilt but it was damaged again by lightning strike twice in the 18th century, leaving the castle uninhabitable and in ruins. It was never completely restored but the ruined castle now stands as a symbol of German Romanticism. The building phases do not follow a single style. Even today, many of the castle's architectural features bear witness to the Gothic and Renaissance periods. The Thirty Years' War put an end to the castle's golden age, and thereafter, new ravages repeatedly thwarted all attempts at reconstruction. It couldn't be any more imposing: the ruins of the red sandstone castle in the Neckar valley stand on the northern slopes of the Königstuhl in the middle of the forest. Its silhouette dominates the landscape of the old town of Heidelberg. The brilliant and eventful history of Heidelberg Castle began when the Counts Palatine of the Rhine, and later the Prince Electors, took up residence in Heidelberg. It soon became the most prestigious seat of sovereignty of the Renaissance.
What To See In Heidelberg Castle
* German Apothecary Museum - The German Apothecary Museum is an interesting glimpse into the history of pharmaceutics. The exhibition showcases everything from natural remedies from medieval times to antique lab equipment. The museum is located on the lower floor of the Ottheinrich Building.
* The Heidelberg Tun - (German: Großes Fass), is an extremely large wine vat contained within the cellars of Heidelberg Castle. There have been four such barrels in the history of Heidelberg. In 1751, the year of its construction, the present one had a capacity of 221,726 litres. Due to the drying of the wood its current capacity is 219,000 litres. One hundred and thirty oak trees were reputedly used in its construction. It has only rarely been used as a wine barrel, and in fact presently enjoys more use as a tourist attraction, and also as a dance floor since one was constructed on top of the tun. When the French army captured the castle, the soldiers believed the empty wine barrel to be full of wine; their hatchet marks left on the barrel were later visible to tourists. According to tradition and local legend, the eternal keeper of the enormous Tun remains Perkeo of Heidelberg, once a court jester and master of the castle’s spirit production (and a famously Herculean wine drinker).
* The Friedrich Building - is the royal family’s ancestral hall. It’s filled with statues of emperors and kings displaying the idealized royal lines as built by Friedrich IV. You can admire some of the statues and sculptures that are on the facade of the building but the original ones are displayed inside.Leer más
Ulm - The tallest church in the world
6 de diciembre de 2023, Alemania ⋅ ☁️ 3 °C
Wednesday – This morning we heard on the news that there was going to be a rail strike from Friday for three days, on top of all the cancelations due to heavy snow falls blocking numerous rail lines. There were many train cancelations so we’re fortunate that Martin was able to navigate through all this. Local knowledge and language is a wonderful thing. The bus stops in front of Martins place and we were at the railway station in ten minutes and didn’t have to wait long for the train to Ulm. As we got closer the snow cover got thicker. Very pretty. First impressions of Ulm were not another Heidelberg with modern shops, but then in front of the Minster (church) a colourful vista of Christmas shops in a compact market at the foot of the church. We did a Minster tour followed by a Christmas organ recital of Johan Sebastian Bach’s Fanfare on ‘In Dulci Jubilo’. Fabulous organ music but it was freezing cold in the cavernous open space with no heating. Afterwards we climbed the 392 steps up the spire to enjoy a magnificent view. For lunch we found a spot in the Abaco Steak House where Wal had a super Argentinian steak. Avoiding the rain as much as possible we sauntered about town until we located the Old Town and Fisherman’s Quarter. This area is medieval and beautiful and has not been touched by the war. Ulm is a town in which we feel comfortable and at home. When back in Stuttgart we received confirmation of the rail strike on Friday, and discussed our options. After dinner, on Martin’s advice, we returned to the main railway station to ask about the way ahead but left disappointed with the lack of help. Tonight, it was decided to leave the next day, a day early and before going to bed we packed our suitcases.
The oldest traceable settlement of the Ulm area began in the early Neolithic period, around 5000 BC. Settlements of this time have been identified at the villages of Eggingen and Lehr, today districts of the city. In the city area of Ulm proper, the oldest find dates from the late Neolithic period. The earliest written mention of Ulm is dated 22 July 854 AD, when King Louis the German signed a document in the King's palace of "Hulma" in the Duchy of Swabia. The city was declared an Imperial City (German: Reichsstadt) by Friedrich Barbarossa in 1181.
The Ulm Minster (German: Ulmer Münster) is a Lutheran church and is the tallest church in the world. The church is the fifth-tallest structure built before the 20th century, with a steeple measuring 161.53 meters.
The legend of the Ulm Sparrow - According to legend, the inhabitants of Ulm needed a particularly large beam for the construction of Ulm Minster, but could not get it through the city gate. As they were about to tear the gate down, they noticed a sparrow carrying a straw for its nest; which turned it from crosswise to lengthwise in its beak. A realization descended on the people of Ulm. Since that epiphany, they have placed long loads along rather than across their carts and were able to enter the city without rebuilding their gate. The legend is first recorded in a travelogue in 1826.Leer más
Zoetermeer Oost - An Uncertain Trip
7 de diciembre de 2023, Países Bajos ⋅ ☁️ 3 °C
Thursday – With a day full of uncertainty we got up at 07:00, had a quick breakfast and shower and caught the bus to Stuttgart main railway station. We weren’t the only ones and lined up for an hour before finally speaking to a very helpful DB employee. He managed to book us seats on the 15:23 train to Frankfurt with a 16:35 connection to Utrecht in Holland. Just outside Frankfurt our train stopped and was delayed due to another train also running late, arriving at 17:00. Luckily our connecting train was also delayed and we departed thirty minutes late. At Bonn the train stopped unexpectedly, and we were asked to collect our baggage immediately and go across the platform to another train waiting on the opposite side of the platform. Whilst looking for carriage 38 we were directed to immediately board at carriage 35 as the train was leaving and we had to battle our way on the train through the stream of humanity travelling in the opposite direction with their suitcases, down the narrow passageway, looking for their seats. With our big bags it became quite a challenge. Arrival at Utrecht was forty-five minutes late. Station information staff were very helpful with directions to platform 20 and getting us through the barriers which refused to read our ticket bar codes. We arrived at Zoetermeer Oost at 22:30 on an empty, dark platform with light rain falling. The Dutch trains don’t have blue tooth which left us without communications and unable to contact Tineke and Bas. We found Bas patiently waiting for us at the railway crossing at the end of the platform, although we had been unable to contact him to inform of our arrival time. Once at Tineke and Bas’ house there was a very warm welcome followed by coffee and a long conversational chat which lasted until 01:45. What beautiful kind people Tineke and Bas de Vet are.Leer más
Zoetermeer - Intratuin Christmas Markets
8 de diciembre de 2023, Países Bajos ⋅ ☁️ 8 °C
Friday – This morning we were tired and didn’t get up until 09:45. Our hosts had prepared a lovely breakfast of croissants and fresh bread. The day was nice and slow with time for some washing and relaxed conversation. Before we realised it was lunch time with more food. During the afternoon Bas took us to the “Intratuin Zoetermeer” which was being used as a Christmas Market. Fabulous, what a pity that Australia cannot organise something like this. Sylvie, Bas and I were there for almost two hours whilst Tineke stayed home and prepared lunch for the next day. On the way home Bas bought Dutch Olliebollen (doughnuts). Tonight, we went to bed much earlier.Leer más
Den Hague - Mauritshuis Museum
9 de diciembre de 2023, Países Bajos ⋅ 🌧 7 °C
Saturday – Today is Charlotte’s birthday (Tiaan's daughter). A big day. The alarm went off at 07:30. We had a quick shower and breakfast in order to leave at 10:00 for our visit to the Mauritshuis Museum in den Hague. The place is not recognizable with the work that has been undertaken since last I was here in March 2008. The art by the many famous Dutch artists such as Rembrandt and Vermeer is quite stunning. After the visit we rushed home to be ready for the lunchtime family visit. First Don arrived, followed by Rob, Joke and Louise. Lunch was a joyful affair, lots of talking and sharing good memories and tall tales. When everyone was leaving Louise said farewell and I responded, “see you next time”, but she indicated that this was uncertain. I wonder if she is sick and not talking about it. She now has a walking stick. Tonight, we relaxed, talked and went to bed late again.Leer más
Den Hague - Eregraf Stijkelgroep
10 de diciembre de 2023, Países Bajos ⋅ ☁️ 10 °C
Sunday – The Stijkelgroep Burial Place
The Stijkelgroep was one of the first groups of opposition during World War II in the Netherlands. As early as 1941, before the opposition had managed to organize themselves in the Netherlands, a diverse group of people – including young craftsmen and students as well as directors and former soldiers - were engaged in collecting military information about the German occupier. The group is named after Johan 'Han' Aaldrik Stijkel. The Germans regarded the young academic from the Hague as the leader of the group. The Stijkelgroep consisted of a collection of small opposition groups from the Hague, the Zaandam area and Amsterdam. Amongst other things they exchanged spy material, because the groups searched for ways to get information to England. In the spring of 1941 Han Stijkel made an attempt with Cornelis Gude and Jean Baud to sail to England with a fishing vessel. On board they had a suitcase full of espionage material. The ship hadn’t even left the port of Scheveningen before it was intercepted by the Germans. The men managed to destroy the suitcase, but Han Stijkel and Cornelis Gude were arrested. Jean Baud escaped in the confusion, but was later also arrested.
Two Dutch agents from the Sicherheitsdienst (SD) had managed to infiltrate the group and tipped off the Germans. That same night a wave of arrests followed in The Hague. In the following days 150 people were arrested. Eventually 43 men and 4 women ended up in the Oranjehotel, the German penitentiary in Scheveningen. After a year in custody in the Netherlands the group was transferred to Berlin Tegel prison. The Stijkelgroep members were declared as ‘Nacht und Nebel’ prisoners; they had to disappear without a trace like mist in the night, contact with the outside world was next to impossible. In September of 1942 following a brief show trial at the military court in Berlin. Forty people were given the highest punishment for espionage: the death sentence.
Despite the Nacht und Nebel declaration the news about the sentences reached the Netherlands via a German lawyer. With mediation from Sweden it was attempted to exchange the Dutch prisoners for Germans in captivity with the allied forces, but that failed. It only caused a delay of the sentences. On 4 June 1943 at 8am Han Stijkel was shot at the execution grounds of the Berlin Tegel prison. In the hours that followed, with five minute intervals, the remaining 31 other members sentenced to death were also executed. That same day 7 saw their death sentence converted to lifelong imprisonment. These not sentenced to death were transported to concentration camps in Germany. Most died there during the last year of war. Only four returned to the Netherlands after the Liberation: Martine van Deth, Hilko Glazenburg, Wesselina van Hinte-de Bruin and Riek Lotgering-Hillebrand.
In 1943 news about the fate of the executed men reached Willem Wagenaar, the father of the executed Willem Wagenaar Jr. During the remainder of the war he was already making plans to travel to Berlin to gather more information about the fate of the executed Stijkelgroep members and to repatriate their bodies. He was therefore at the foundation of what would later become the Stichting Eregraf Stijkelgroep. The 32 executed men and Pieter Mulder – who died a few months before the execution in a hospital – were buried in a mass grave for prisoners of war in Döberitz, near Berlin. After the war that was in the Russian zone, which made the repatriation very difficult. In 1947 the bodies of the executed were transported to the Netherlands.
Because a significant part of the members of the Stijkelgroep were from The Hague it was decided to make an honorary grave at the new cemetery Westduin. On 1 August 1947 an honorary service was held in a very crowded Grote Kerk. Following the service, an impressive funeral procession of one kilometer led to the cemetery were 33 graves were waiting. Thousands of people stood along the route to pay their last respects to those deceased. For the ten members that passed away and of whom the bodies could not be recovered a cross was also placed. In 1951 the Stichting Eregraf Stijkelgroep was founded. The foundation is committed to the care of the honorary grave and to maintaining contact with the relatives. The board consists of family of the members of the Stijkelgroep.Leer más
Den Hague Searching for my Father's Home
10 de diciembre de 2023, Países Bajos ⋅ ☁️ 10 °C
Sunday – A slow start, not out of bed until 08:45. Following breakfast we showered and set of at a leisurely pace to den Hague to visit my uncles’ grave. Bas had problems finding the cemetery and had never been there before. I think that it was an eye opener, and the history really interested them. After the cemetery we drove to 97 Tomatenstraat (Tomato Street) in den Hague. It’s where my grandfather and father used to live but it may not be the original house anymore. Searching online suggests war damage in 1945 resulted in the demolition and redevelopment of this part of the city. On the way home Bas drove us to the Vissershaven (fishing harbour) in Scheveningen to collect a couple of herrings for him and me. The girls won’t eat raw herring. The evening meal was a nice collection of fish and leftovers followed by a French comedy DVD movie. Once again it was after midnight before we went to bed.Leer más
Kinderdijk - the Famous Dutch Windmills
11 de diciembre de 2023, Países Bajos ⋅ ☁️ 10 °C
Monday – Today, following the morning activities we were on the road at midday on the way to see the windmills on the Kinderdijk (children’s dyke). It was a cold grey day with light rain showers and at times a biting wind (very Dutch weather). We arrived at 12:30 and notwithstanding the weather took some great photos showing the true Holland that I remember. It was 14:00 before we went home having had a warming cup of tea in the restaurant first. Interestingly some parts of Holland in this area are nine meters below sea level. During the afternoon we brought our partially packed suitcases downstairs because they are too heavy to bring down when fully laden. Tonight, another movie after dinner, but I slept through most. Tomorrow back on the road again, but then it’s to Paris.
The Kinderdijk windmills are a group of 19 monumental windmills in the Alblasserwaard polder, in the province of South Holland, Netherlands. Most of the mills are part of the village of Kinderdijk in the municipality of Molenlanden, and one mill, De Blokker, is part of the municipality of Alblasserdam. Built in 1738 and 1740, to keep water out of the polder, it is the largest concentration of old windmills in the Netherlands and one of the best-known Dutch tourist sites. The mills are listed as national monuments and the entire area is a protected village view since 1993. They have been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1997, and as such are officially named as the Mill Network at Kinderdijk-Elshout.Leer más
Paris - City of Light
12 de diciembre de 2023, Francia ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C
Tuesday – Even though we didn’t have to leave until 11:00 we still arose early and arrived in the dining room before Bas and Tineke and were greeted by the cat. Wal had an early shower today whilst Bas prepared breakfast. Tineke wasn’t coming with us today as she had the cleaning lady coming. The trip to Amsterdam was quick but in Amsterdam many roads were closed due to roadworks and after half an hour of going in circles and in frustration Bas went down a tiny lane way where we had to move shop signs to get through and then down a one-way street in the wrong direction. Eventually we did arrive close to Amsterdam Central Station. Fond farewells followed and we waved Bas goodbye as he disappeared in the melee of city traffic. After asking directions in Dutch at the railway station, we found the correct platform and Eurostar 9352, which departed on time at 13:15, to Paris Nord, arriving at 16:38. Other than the heavy bags it was a comfortable trip. In Paris we had a mini conference and decided to walk the one kilometre to the hotel “New Hotel Lafayette”. We had a small or rather a tiny room, but it was manageable, and we were in the eating district around Rue Buffault. Tonight, we dined out and enjoyed a glass of wine. Following dinner we went sightseeing, enjoying the noise and ambience of a city full of life and colour, something that we miss back home in Merimbula, Australia.Leer más





























































































































































































![Jan van der Heyden - The Herengracht in Amsterdam [c.1668]](http://media.fp-files.com/footprint/673b1e67a0c389-13941212/9hrmkoseiflxs_m_s.jpg)


































