Camper Travel 1974-1975

On a 13-month journey from North America through Central & South America, back to our starting point in NYC. Our means of transportation was a model 1972 VW Westfalia camper with a 1700cc engine and pop-up top. Total miles 37,492. En savoir plus

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Camper Travel 1974-1975 Voyageur
Day 224 - Lake Puelo
11 décembre 1974, Argentine
(Ursula) After leaving this beautiful National Park (of which we have only scratched the surface), we briefly shopped in Esquel, refueled, and adjusted the tire pressure. The engine ran fine; everything looked good.

The wind was still blowing strong on Route #40 North. Passed the village of Leleque, we drove by a corral with hundreds of white sheep. It looked like they were held there for shearing. Heinz stopped to get some pictures, but it was challenging. The herd ran to the opposite side whenever he approached with his camera. It was so funny to watch.

Lake Epuyén seemed like a possible stay for the night, but I was unimpressed by the location. Instead, we continued up the valley and found a campground with a gorgeous view of Lake Puelo.

A pleasant evening walk along the shore and a game of Canasta after yet another savory meat dinner sealed the day.

Stats: Miles 152, Expenses $9.75En savoir plus
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Camper Travel 1974-1975 Voyageur
Day 225 - Camping Pampa Linda
12 décembre 1974, Argentine
(Ursula) Today's drive was picturesque, especially after Rio Villegas in Nahuel Huapi National Park.

The road curved along rivers and lakes. At the end of Lake Guillermo, we took a lunch break and just sat there, opening all our senses to this beautiful land. This is undoubtedly a wonderful time of year to visit these National Parks. Everything was in full bloom, and there weren't many tourists around. Bright bushes glowing in the sunlight.

When we got to Lago Mascardi, we turned left onto Road #82 and followed the lake to Hotel Tronador at the very end, where we purchased more meat. The location and view from this place were quite spectacular. We should come back here for vacation. Heinz inquired: a double room with a bath was $33, not too expensive, considering meals were included.

Every place here is so beautiful that it is hard to leave. At the end of the valley, we climbed a trail that led to a waterfall. Then we drove back a few miles and found Camping Pampa Linda near a river where we camped overnight.

For tomorrow we are planning a hike in the Andes. Our goal is to ascend to the Refugio Viejo Tronador at an elevation of 8,000ft.

Stats: Miles 113, Expenses $3.80En savoir plus
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Camper Travel 1974-1975 Voyageur
Day 226 - Refugio Viejo Tronador
13 décembre 1974, Argentine ⋅ ⛅ 61 °F
(Ursula) It was a cold morning. We reluctantly got out of our warm bed. The hike started at 7:00 AM, and we were grateful for the underlayers and warm sweaters.

We had already reached the tree line an hour later, and the mountain world opened above us. More and more snow-covered peaks appeared at each turn of the trail. Then the first rays of the sun warmed us up. Now the trail leads over a swampy plateau with low bushes and patches of snow left-over from the past winter. We tried stepping on rocks as much as possible to avoid our shoes getting wet. The ones we wore were not meant for mountain hiking.

The views already looked pretty good from up there. Nothing but mountains all around us! After three more uphill hours, mostly over snow fields, we reached the Refugio (hut). It consisted of a single room intended as an emergency shelter.

Inside, we met three young Argentineans from Buenos Aires. They had just returned from the Tronador summit and were packing to leave. Heinz fired up the wood stove and brewed coffee with our sausage and bread sandwiches.

Then we hung our shoes and socks to dry and took a nap. Later we sat outside on a sunny rock, sheltered from the wind, and enjoyed the incredible views. We realized we were sitting in the middle of the Andes, surrounded by 2,000 and 3,000-meter peaks. It could as well have been in the Swiss Alps; only this range appeared much more massive.

There isn’t much to say about our descent except that our knees started hurting because of a lack of training. We were glad to arrive back at the car, where Büsi happily greeted us. I guess he was hungry. After a wonderful bath, we put our feet up, munched on gingerbread, and relaxed. Heinz got the camper ready for the next day while I washed a few clothes. Later, we opened a bottle of wine and ate a light dinner. We happily cuddled into our cozy bed.

What a wonderful day!En savoir plus
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Camper Travel 1974-1975 Voyageur
Day 227 - San Carlos de Bariloche
14 décembre 1974, Argentine
Our shoes had dried overnight, and we continued our trip.

The engine suddenly quit working. However, that was deliberately planned. We wanted to test how far we could still drive when the gas tank needle hit the red zone "Reserve." The result was 24.85 miles.

We should have done that at the beginning of our trip but better now than never. Route #82 followed the shores of Lake Mascardi to the house of a Meteorologist whom we had met two days earlier when we hiked to the waterfall.

He was preparing an Assado (BBQ) and insisted we join him and his friends. He spoke English and talked passionately about his weather station and profession.

Our VW Camper was thirsty again in the town of Villa Mascardi. The beautiful mountains were still all around us and hopefully will be for a while!

We reached San Carlos de Bariloche after only a short drive. The place could be compared to a Swiss town on a lake similar to Brienz. Some of the homes were built in the typical Chalet style, suggesting the presence of Swiss, German, or Austrian immigrants.

After shopping, we started looking for Residencia Matterhorn, recommended by Bruno at Copacabana Beach. It was a well-known Hostel. The owners, Adrian & Greta Meier, greeted us warmly but were fully booked.

Adrian kindly accompanied us to the Swiss Club, where we could stay tonight. Five Swiss boys were staying there as well. They traveled in a Dodge van with NY plates via Peru, Bolivia, and Chile.
We are looking forward to quizzing them and learning about those countries.

Ursula made a sausage salad with cucumbers for dinner, all purchased at the local German Deli store. What a luxury!

Stats: Miles 114, Expenses $6.60En savoir plus
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Camper Travel 1974-1975 Voyageur
Day 228 - Grilled Trout for Lunch
15 décembre 1974, Argentine
(Ursula) Nothing special to report for today.

It’s the perfect day to relax and write letters to friends and relatives about what’s happened since Buenos Aires. The camper was moved to a sunnier spot.

At noon the Swiss boys came over with freshly caught rainbow trouts. Heinz
put them on the grill for a yummy lunch.

In the afternoon, we all went to the lake for a swim. Heinz and I didn’t go in as it was too cold. Back at the clubhouse, we took a hot shower.

After dinner, we sat with the boys and listened to their travel stories from the Altiplano of Peru and Bolivia. We gathered lots of information for our upcoming visit to that area.

Stats: Miles 0, Expenses $0.60En savoir plus
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Camper Travel 1974-1975 Voyageur
Day 229 - A squeaky Noise
16 décembre 1974, Argentine
Inspired by the delicious trout of yesterday, I got up early this morning and went fishing but had no luck. I need to buy new gear and proper lures.

Back at the Club, I took another hot shower and enjoyed the pancakes Ursula had prepared for breakfast. The rest of the morning was spent writing the last letters and postcards.

Peter Hunziker, one of the Swiss boys, handed me $50 and asked us to buy him an Alpaca blanket in Bolivia and mail it to his parents in Switzerland. We will gladly do so. Speaking about trust!

When I checked the engine to assert that everything was in good order, I heard a squeaky noise. At first, I thought it was the V-belt and replaced it with a new one. But that didn't help. What else could it be? Aha!

The noise was actually coming from inside the distributor. It turned out the distributor shaft needed to be greased (I remembered Wally's telling me about that). I most likely wiped it off while drying the parts after the motor got wet. I was so proud of myself for figuring out the cause of the squeak!

After lunch, we dropped off the mail at the Correos and purchased more Super-8 films. Ursula acquired a Gaucho leather whip as a souvenir, she claimed! Then we refueled and stopped at the Swiss Bakery to buy a supply of bread. Of course, we had to treat ourselves to coffee and pastry. Who knows how long it will be before we can again splurge a little?

Then we left town and drove to the trailhead for tomorrow's hike to Refugio San Martin.

Stats: Miles 23, Expenses $29.80En savoir plus
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Camper Travel 1974-1975 Voyageur
Day 230 - Refugio San Martin
17 décembre 1974, Argentine
(Ursula) We woke up at 5 AM and started our hike. The trail followed a creek upstream for a very long time on an easy to moderate incline.

The sky was overcast. We were unsure about the weather. At first, only a few clouds were visible, but then more showed up, and soon we felt the first raindrops. At that point, we were halfway into the hike and didn’t want to turn around. Our rain jackets came in handy, and we continued climbing.

Soon rainwater ran down our legs, and our shoes got wet. Sometimes the trail resembled a creek bed, and we had to walk on the banks. We both doubted that we would make it, but neither wanted to admit it. So, we encouraged each other and continued climbing.

By the time we reached the upper tree line, the raihad n had stopped. The trail reached a plateau and continued over an elevated narrow path on wooden planks. Still, further up, we waded knee-deep across a creek. It was a bit risky as there was a considerable cliff drop-off about 20ft away. Luckily we made it and didn’t slip!

After this crossing, the trail continued up a steep snow field from where we got our first glimpse of the Refugio San Martin. About an hour later, we arrived at the hut and saw the beautiful Jacob Lake.

We ate something and hung up our wet clothes and shoes to dry. Then we cuddled into a bunkbed to warm up and rest.

The sun was back. Heinz snapped a few beautiful photos and even dared diving into the freezing lake. In the evening, we played cards and slipped back under the warm blankets for the night.

We were proud of our 7-hour performance and perseverance.

Stats: Miles 0, Expenses $5.50En savoir plus
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Camper Travel 1974-1975 Voyageur
Day 231 - Heading for Chile
18 décembre 1974, Argentine
(Ursula) Nothing eventful happened today. We slept well and started our descent from this beautiful mountain world. The same trail took us back to the car in 4 hours.

Today's weather was bright and sunny but quite cool and windy. We drove back to the Swiss Club and took wonderful hot showers. In the evening we went food shopping and enjoyed a fine dinner at the Restaurant Tyrolia. Stats: Miles 35, Expenses $38.75

December 19th
(Ursula) We were ready to leave Bariloche at noon and said our goodbyes to everyone. Before leaving the area, we visited Colonia Suiza, a little Swiss village on Lake Moreno with the spectacular Andes Mountains as a backdrop. It was a picture I will probably never forget!

Then Route #40 took us around Lake Nahuel Huapi to Villa La Angostura. From there, we traveled on Route #231 to the Chilean border. We exited Argentine at Paso Cardenal Antonio Samoré and drove through a long tunnel through the mountain to the Chilean side. Chile welcomed us with 4 inches of fresh snow on the ground. What a surprise!

We briefly stopped before approaching the border patrol to hide our Büsi. Pets were not allowed to enter. Büsi refused to stay in his secret compartment under the passenger seat and always meowed. So I just stuck him in my purse on my lap.

Heinz went to the Immigration & Customs building to get all the paperwork done. Meanwhile, I sat in my seat with a pounding heart, following every move of the customs officer as he searched our car. He seemed satisfied with the back and came to my passenger window. At that moment, Büsi stretched her head and paws out of my purse!

I could only gently stroke his head and hope he wouldn't start meowing as I handed over the passports. After stamping, the officer returned them to me, tapping his cap and saluting "Bienvenido a Chile."

What a relief - I could finally breathe again!En savoir plus
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Camper Travel 1974-1975 Voyageur
Day 232 - Entering Chile
19 décembre 1974, Chili
(Ursula) Heinz had to drive very carefully down the snow-covered mountain road. After just a few Miles, the road was dry again.

Then we turned left by a sign marked Aguas Calientes. When we got there, we found a simple campground and met other travelers, Toni Amstutz from Switzerland and his wife, Susan from Canada.

We bundled up and sat around a warm campfire, eating dinner and chatting. When it was dark, we all hiked down a path to the hot springsi and hung our underwear on nearby bushes.

It was awesome soaking our bodies in the hot pools n the river bed, looking at the moon and starry sky. It was so nice and cozy we didn’t want to leave. When we finally decided to get out, our underwear had been stolen!

We all tiptoed naked up the trail, single file, to our campers. That was too funny - we all laughed about it!

Stats: Miles 146, Expenses $5.95En savoir plus
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Camper Travel 1974-1975 Voyageur
Day 233 - Heading for Santiago
20 décembre 1974, Chili
(Ursula) We said goodbye to Toni and Susan and continued down the valley towards the Pacific coast.

In Osorno, we turned right onto Route #5 North to Villarrica, where we found a beautiful place to stay near a farm on the lake overlooking the Volcán Villarrica. We played cards until the wee hours! Stats: Miles 215, Expenses $8.85

December 21st
(Ursula) I don't know if it is my imagination, but the vegetation in Chile looks different from the last parts of Argentina. Other trees, lots of yellow flowers (I don't know the name yet), and daisies can be seen on grassy fields everywhere. The landscape isn't as rocky, either. We see lots of agriculture and lush green pastures.

Looking over to our right, the snow-capped volcanoes look mighty impressive. The road surface is concrete (slabs). We guess they are easier to replace after an earthquake. The Chilean currency is called Escudos. It's wild. Two pounds of cherries cost 200 Escudos - the equivalent of $0.38, and two pounds of bread cost 350 Escudos. Chicle must have had much devaluation over the years.

(Heinz) We found a perfect place to stay near a waterfall. I purchased motor oil and STP oil treatment to do an oil change. When I unscrewed the oil plug, the engine block's threaded insert also came out. I tried to screw it back in, but it jammed. Oh my God! What can I do? Where is Wally?

Fortunately, a screw from the spare wheel had a large enough diameter to fit. The thread didn't have the same pitch, but I could force it in a little and get a tight fit. The screwhead protruded, but it should hold as a temporary fix. I must find a VW Dealer in Santiago and see what can be done. Once again, luck was on my side!

The ignition timing was off by 4 degrees and had to be corrected.

In the evening, we were joined by a couple from Brazil, Paulo and Heidi - also traveling in a VW camper. We walked with them to a nearby waterfall, then soon hit the sack.

It was another fantastic day on our journey, but I didn't fall asleep immediately—couldn't get the oil plug issue off my thoughts?

Stats: Miles 211, Expenses 11.80En savoir plus
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Camper Travel 1974-1975 Voyageur
Day 235 - Adjusting the Valve Clearance
22 décembre 1974, Chili
After breakfast (pancakes with honey and lemon), I adjust the engine valve clearance for the first time. I had watched Wally doing it a few times, but now being on my own made me a little nervous.

The operating manual stated that the cylinder firing order was 1-4-3-2, which made sense to me for a Boxer engine. So, I went ahead and adjusted the valve clearance in that order. I kept my fingers crossed as I started the engine.

I must have done everything correctly because it ran OK, and I didn’t hear unusual sounds or knocking. After a few minutes, I also checked the valve covers to ensure the gaskets were sealing correctly.

Then we continued the trip toward Santiago. The engine ran well, and I was so proud of my acquired car mechanic skills.

This part of Chile was very flat, and the compass pointed North as we continued on Route #5. Agricultural fields, mainly wheat, could be seen on both sides of the road. The snow-capped Volcanoes to our right were a picture-perfect backdrop.

We passed many wineries and cherry farms. One particular town had lots of hand-woven baskets for sale. Another one seemed to specialize in all kinds of brooms.

Tonight we are staying near a river about 45 miles away from Santiago. There are millions of black flies here, driving us crazy.

Stats: Miles 271, Expenses $1.70En savoir plus
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Camper Travel 1974-1975 Voyageur
Day 236 - Santiago de Chile
23 décembre 1974, Chili
Today we reached the capital Santiago de Chile.

The Swiss Consulate had mail waiting for us, and a box with VW spare parts from our friends Bernhard & Elisabeth in New York was waiting at customs.

The Swiss Club was easy to find and assigned us a parking space and access to the entire facility. We couldn’t wait any longer and curiously snooped through the mail.

In the afternoon, we walked to a shopping center and supermarket. At the checkout, they asked if we had empty bottles to trade in for the wine we bought. It was apparently part of Chile’s recycling policy and made much sense. The market had various fruits (peaches, apricots, oranges, grapes, apples, pears) and all sorts of vegetables, assumingly all from the southern region we had just passed through.

The Chilean people seemed OK. The police wore clean, well-kept uniforms. Downtown Santiago halovelyce old buildings in the Spanish colonial style. The streets and sidewalks looked clean and well-maintained. Everything seemed organized, and there were some rules: restaurants must close at 11:30 PM, and no motorized vehicles were allowed to drive between 1 and 4 AM.

Stats: Miles 47, Expenses $10.90En savoir plus
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Day 237 - Christmas in Santiago
24 décembre 1974, Chili
Most shops are open until 6 PM today.

The streets were crowded with last-minute shoppers, but people were dressed differently here in the southern hemisphere, running around in summer clothes and flip-flops loaded with Christmas packages and shopping bags - it was so funny to watch.

We got up early and visited Volkswagen because of the stupid oil plug. The mechanics were very helpful, but I couldn't insert an original thread set. However, they found one that was better suitable with a sealing washer. They also advised me to purchase a new fuel filter.

Then we stopped at Banco Estado de Chile, where we changed Traveler-Checks at a favorable rate. Next, we visited the Peruvian Consulate and inquired about a tourist visa. They informed us that a visa wasn't needed, but a tourist card would be issued at the border. Excellente!

We had lunch in a Men's Bar/Restaurant. Pork chops with French Fries and a Coke. Very classy American. Next, we went to a gallery with an exhibition of graphic art, but it was already closed for the holidays. Lastly, we stopped at a supermarket and purchased a special bottle of wine for this Christmas Eve.

Back at the Swiss Club, we took a refreshing swim in the pool and relaxed. Ursula prepared a nice dinner. Then we improvised a Christmas celebration in our camper van using the small fir branches we found in the package from Ursula's Mom and a small candle from my Mom. We also enjoyed the chocolate our New York friends had stashed between the new brake pads. The local radio station played Christmas songs.

Despite the hot summer weather, it was a unique and modest atmosphere.

Stats: Miles 14, Expenses $13.50En savoir plus
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Day 238 - Christmas Day
25 décembre 1974, Chili
(Ursula) We got up late and took it easy with reading and writing letters. Even though it was Christmas Day, quite a few Swiss showed up at the Club to play tennis, use the swimming pool, or just lounge on the beautiful lawn.

A Swiss couple invited us for lunch at the Club restaurant. We talked to them about our trip and plans for New Zealand.

In the afternoon, a Chilean gentleman offered us slices of fruit cake and a glass of monkey tail, a drink made with coffee and milk with a shot of Pisco (Grappa). Both were typical things people have on Christmas Day in Chile.

Even Büsi was allowed to have a little piece of cake and scratched the gentleman’s nose as his gesture of gratitude.En savoir plus
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Camper Travel 1974-1975 Voyageur
Day 239 - Leaving Santiago
26 décembre 1974, Chili
(Ursula) We searched again for Coleman stove parts but had no luck. An electric pump was also unavailable, so we settled for a good-quality hand pump. The graphics art exhibition and the museums we wanted to visit were closed for the holidays, so leaving the city and moving on made sense.

Route #68 took us to Valparaiso (port of Santiago). A bit to the north of it, we visited Viña del Mar (a famous place like Malibu). Based on the description in our travel brochure, I had imagined this place to be much more extravagant. The entire hillside was covered with exclusive villas. The properties were relatively small, with flower gardens and balconies. The views from up there over the Pacific must have been very nice.

We continued on the road that followed the coast and stopped in Zapallar. The flowers there were gorgeous as well. We enjoy the view of the Pacific Ocean. The setting sun looked like a red fireball plunging into the sea.

We settled for a tasty pea soup and bread for dinner, then played cards until bedtime.

Stats: Miles 133, Expenses $30.00En savoir plus
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Camper Travel 1974-1975 Voyageur
Day 240 - Guanaqueros
27 décembre 1974, Chili
After Papudo, we got back onto the Panamerican Highway.

Chile is the second longest country in the world, with a north-south span of 2,672 Miles. The further north we drive, the more we realize that Zapallar was probably the last beautiful town in Chile.

From here on to the Peruvian border, we can expect mostly Desert. Stones, rocks, and sand are alternating in many forms and colors. Occasionally, we spotted an oasis in the distance.

Across the Desert, to our right, we can make out the Andes Mountain range. Our travel guide indicated there was considerable mining in the foothills and mountains of that region, predominately Copper and Lithium.

In Guanaqueros, 19 miles south of La Serena, we stayed overnight at a nice seaside campground (4,000 Escudos).

An Argentine traveler we met there gave us an Ecuador address where we could sell our camper.

We had dinner at the fish restaurant next door. Then we played Canasta for the rest of the evening. The luck was in my cards today. I felt so sorry for my dear Ursula.

Stats: Miles 202, Expenses $12.35En savoir plus
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Camper Travel 1974-1975 Voyageur
Day 241 - Bahia Inglesa
28 décembre 1974, Chili
I wanted to buy a fish from the restaurant before we left, but they said it was too windy; the fishermen didn't catch any. It sounded like a flimsy excuse!

Surprise! We had a flat tire today. It happened in the middle of nowhere. Sandy Desert was all around us. The sun was burning hot. I was hoping it was only a nail.

However, the tire shop in the next village found two cracks in the rubber on the inside. They applied a sealer, and it pumped up without any problem. I keep my fingers crossed! We certainly don't want to go through the same problems we experienced in the Amazon.

A massive rock formation ahead near a drop-off to the Pacific looked like the perfect place to stay for the night. We followed the road leading to it, but the sand became too soft for my liking, and I was smart enough to turn around before getting stuck.

On today's route, we made a detour to a mining village at the foothills of the Andes. It looked like a ghost town. There wasn't much to see besides a few skinny goats and stray dogs in the dusty streets. The grocery store had only a few cans of tuna and green beans left. We were wondering what the people were eating that lived there.

We camp in Bahia Inglesa tonight on a seaside campground 6.2 Miles south of Caldera (2,400 Escudos).

Stats: Miles 296, Expenses $15.95En savoir plus
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Camper Travel 1974-1975 Voyageur
Day 242 - Mejillones Beach
29 décembre 1974, Chili
Before we left this morning, we observed Cormorants and Pelicans sitting on the cliffs. Then we drove all the way to Antifogasta and stayed at Mejillones Beach.

It was a long stretch of road and somewhat dull, like the previous days. But a funny thing happened: we found a few heads of cauliflower on the road. They must have fallen off a truck!

At times we had strong side winds, and at one point, a small tornado moved toward us. We suddenly had zero visibility and pulled over to the side of the road until it had passed. Holding on to our seats, we could feel the camper shaking and hear the sand hitting the roof and windshield.

We are glad we have already conquered over half of this long Desert.

The repaired tire from yesterday seems to be holding the air. Let's hope for the best!

Stats: Miles 375, Expenses $6.65En savoir plus
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Day 243 - Oasis Pica
30 décembre 1974, Chili
We left Mejillones early this morning and stopped further up the coast for a while. I collected a bucket of tiny crabs at the beach and boiled them for our Büsi. He went crazy over the delicacy.

In Tocopilla, we met a German couple traveling with two children in a VW camper. Unique that they all fit in such a small space. We were wondering how they manage the kids' education. Homeschooling was the answer. The family started their trip in Peru and are going to Tierra del Fuego.

They highly recommend we visit Oasis Pica with its thermal baths. We didn’t think twice and headed that way. Oasis Pica was 23 miles off the Panamericana in the desert. The tire that gave us trouble a few days ago went flat again. This was a bad sign.

As I changed the wheel, another camper stopped to ask if we needed help. He was Chilean, and she an American from Seattle. The two were also on their way to the Oasis.

The thermal baths were very relaxing. The water smelled slightly of Sulfur and was about 86 degrees. We met with the other couple in the evening and chatted for a long time after dinner over a bottle of wine and Pisco. Then we all slipped into the thermal baths again before going to bed.

When we returned to our camper, we realized our car keys were locked inside. Heinz quickly had to transform himself into a car thief and open the door with a wire hanger. We all laughed about it and happily slipped into bed.

Stats: Miles 301, Expenses $17.25En savoir plus
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Day 244 - New Year's Eve
31 décembre 1974, Chili
It was New Year's Eve.

We still had a long way to go until the Peruvian border and didn't want to continue without a good spare tire.

I stopped at a shop in town to have an inner tube installed. Ursula paid for it with a pair of old shoes she no longer needed. Smart woman!

Then we left Oasis Pico and got back onto the Panamericana, driving North toward Arica. The road led through rocky deserts and valleys. In the afternoon, I felt tired and needed to rest. Thus, we took a short siesta on the side of the road.

When we reached Arica, we found a decent campground with an adjacent restaurant on the North side of town. We sat down for drinks in the evening and danced to live music to stomp out the old year.

There were only a few other guests there. We noticed that the owner and waiter (nicely dressed) looked slightly worried as the night progressed, and no one else showed up.

(Ursula) But after 11 PM, more guests arrived and the place got bustling. At midnight we sang a Feliz Año Nuevo with the crowd and raised our glasses. Then the staff served a complimentary New Year's dinner. How unusual - not bad for a place in the desert!

We had such a great time swinging our dance legs and celebrating with the crowd that we almost forgot where we were and started this fantastic journey eight months ago in New York.

Stats: Miles 230, Expenses $13.10En savoir plus
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Day 245 - Rest Day
1 janvier 1975, Chili
(Ursula) No hangover, but we slept a long time into the first day of the year 1975.

It made sense to declare today a rest day. There isn’t anything worth mentioning in our journal other than that we went for a walk on the beach after lunch. It was uncomfortable due to the strong wind. Nevertheless, we took a quick dip in the sea.

Once the wind eased up a bit, Heinz decided to perform a routine check on the car.

I cooked a tomato soup for dinner, and now it's already 9 PM. Time to cuddle and close our eyes.En savoir plus
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Day 246 - Exploring Options
2 janvier 1975, Chili ⋅ ⛅ 70 °F
(Ursula) Given the start of the rainy season on the Altiplano of Peru and Bolivia, the question was, how to continue the trip from here?

We drove to “downtown” Arica and inquired about fares by train or air. Ouch! We quickly realized that wasn’t going to be an option for us. Too heavy for the budget.

Instead, we will stick to our original plan and drive. We knew it was risky, but we could always turn around if worse came to worse.

When we returned to the Camper, we noticed someone had damaged the rear right blinker. Oh, man! 1975 is starting well already.

We finished shopping and found a seafood restaurant for lunch. Heinz ordered sea snails, and I ordered fried fish. The snails were just a stomach teaser for Heinz. Next, he ordered fish soup and saved a few pieces for our Büsi.

Many stores were closed for the holidays, but we found an open Mercado Artisanal. The only thing that appealed to me was a hand-woven Peruvian blanket - but why should I buy this in a dusty Chilean border town? No!

Back at the campground, we met two Germans. They started their journey in São Paulo, Brazil, and headed for Lima. We chatted for a long time with them in their native language, drinking Coca-Cola & Cognac.

Stats: Miles 26, Expenses $12.40En savoir plus
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Day 247 - Crossing into Peru
3 janvier 1975, Pérou
(Ursula) We left Arica this morning and drove the 10 Miles to the Chile/Peru border.

Leaving Chile wasn’t as easy as we thought. What a hassle.

We had to return to Arica to get a permit from the Chilean Transit Police to leave the country officially. Perhaps we stole a once of bloody sand from their bloody desert?

Getting everything done at the same office would have been too much to ask. No, we had to take the permit to another building and pay for an official seal of approval.

On the other hand, things went much smoother on the Peruvian side. They didn’t even search the inside of the camper or the roof rack. What a relief!

(Ursula) The first Peruvian town after the border crossing was Tacna. We refueled at Petroperú and were impressed by the much lower gas prices. What a pleasant surprise after what we paid Chile.

A little further, we stopped at a VW dealership to have the “trouble” tire replaced and a new rear blinker glass installed. Fortunately, they carried the same Michelin we needed. However, they wouldn’t accept US$ Traveler Checks.

Luckily, another customer overheard the conversation and was nice enough to help us with the exchange. With all tires in good condition, we started the “Altiplano” adventure with greater confidence.

The road gradually climbed higher and higher into the Andes. After Tarata, we both felt light-headed, and Heinz decided we camp right there on the side of the road.

As I stepped out to empty the Büsi litter box, it felt like my heart was going on strike. What was going on? Heinz felt the same way and was getting nauseous. We lay down for a while, feeling hungry but without an appetite.

Then it dawned on us. We were experiencing altitude sickness. No Wonder! Six hours ago, we were in Tacna at 1,800 feet and were now at 11,032 feet.

Aside from that, we were so excited to be on our way to the (long anticipated) Altiplano. So much more to explore!

Stats: Miles 130, Expenses $13.24En savoir plus
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Camper Travel 1974-1975 Voyageur
Day 248 - High Altitude
4 janvier 1975, Pérou
(Ursula) Our health condition has improved enough to continue driving.

It is a beautiful, clear day. The dirt road climbed to 15,800 feet, leading over two mountain passes. Soon our faces and limbs began to tingle again, and I felt pressure on my chest and stomach. I also developed a headache and felt a ringing in my ears. We had to rest a few more times along the way to acclimatize.

And we were not the only ones who felt the high altitude. The engine didn't do so well either. We noticed its power was diminishing. It had trouble breathing. Haha! Heinz studied the VW operating manual and adjusted the air intake of the carburetor. That did the trick! We had full engine power again.

The landscape and rock formations in this mountain region were amazing. Sometimes gray, then red, changing to orange or black and white. Some areas resembled the surface of the moon. It was spooky - are we still on Earth? The altitude constantly changed, and after a long time, the road gradually descended to lower elevations. The more altitude we lost, the better we felt physically.

The Altiplano was, just as the word implies, a high plateau. Sheep, Lamas, and Alpacas grazed on meager patches of grass, which could be seen on the planes where there were small depressions, allowing rainwater to accumulate.

From time to time, we passed a cluster of farm buildings constructed of mud-brick. The people (Indios) seemed shy but waved to us good-naturedly when they saw us waving at them. The children looked pretty, typically wearing a felt hat, with brown weathered faces and black eyes.

The landscape looked barren. We seemed to be the only vehicle on the road. Only now and then did we cross with another vehicle. The road surface often became a washboard, and Heinz had to slow down. But at least it was drivable, and we had no rain.

As night approached, we found a place to camp beside the road in the middle of nowhere. Then I heard a "hissing" sound. OH no! One of the tires was punctured and losing air.

When Heinz was finished changing the wheel, I had a lentil soup ready for dinner.

We were eating when we saw a group of men on horseback passing by in the twilight. The scene reminded us of a negative encounter in Nicaragua. Thus we decided not to stay there and find a safer location.

We packed up and drove to the town of Ilave, where we stayed next to a gas station. Ilave is on the shore of Lake Titicaca at an elevation of 12,500 feet.

We are now on the Altiplano. It's a different world up here.

Stats: Miles 102, Expenses $0.00En savoir plus
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Camper Travel 1974-1975 Voyageur
Day 249 - Crossing into Bolivia
5 janvier 1975, Pérou
Being at this gas station with an adjacent repair shop was practical. They took care of the flat tire before breakfast, and we also filled it with gas and Kerosene.

At the Indio Market, we searched in vain for hand-woven Alpaca blankets. It was interesting to see what items they offered for sale and how the women carried all their trinkets, including tiny babies, wrapped in a blanket on their backs. Most women wore makeshift sandals from car tire profiles, but some walked barefoot.

Bumpy Route #3S West brought us to Desaguadero, where we had to wait more than an hour for a Peruvian immigration officer to arrive. The paperwork went smoothly, thanks to the help of an official who hitched a ride with us. He came in very handy at the Bolivian border crossing as well.

The Bolivian border official said we needed a Tarjeta de Turismo, which we could obtain at the Consulate in Puno. Oh my God! We explained that we came to the Altiplano from Arica and had no interest in going to Puno.

The official seemed to sympathize with us, stepped into his hut, and started rummaging through his desk drawer. After some searching and swearing, he found 1 Tarjeta and handed it to me to be filled out. Meanwhile, a busload of tourists arrived, and he got busy with them. I took this opportunity to walk over to customs to have our Carnet de Passage en Duane stamped. When I returned, the bus was gone, and I handed him the paper. Everything was fine until he insisted that Ursula needed one too. He continued searching the drawers again and miraculously came up with another Tarjeta. The cards received an official stamp, and now everything was in order.

We tipped him for his kindness and were glad we were done.

But 100 yards further was customs, where they searched us and the car from top to bottom. After that, there were three more checkpoints, the Military, the Police, and the Transit Police. It was more or less the same hassle we had to endure in Central America. Nearly a whole day was wasted with this cumbersome border-crossing.

Welcome to Bolivia!

We continued driving toward La Paz and camped overnight beside a sheep farm. The farmer was absent. His two young children led us to the main hut, where we met the mother laying in bed.

She had just given birth to a new baby and seemed very weak with signs of fever. We handed her a few Tylenol and a glass of water and promised to return in a week to check her condition.

Stats: Miles 112, Expenses $11.20En savoir plus
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