Camper Travel 1974-1975

On a 13-month journey from North America through Central & South America, back to our starting point in NYC. Our means of transportation was a model 1972 VW Westfalia camper with a 1700cc engine and pop-up top. Total miles 37,492. Read more

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Camper Travel 1974-1975 Traveler
Day 71 - Toluca - Taxco - Xochicalco
July 11, 1974 in Mexico ⋅ 🌩️ 79 °F
We left early this morning in the direction of Mexico City and camped at a trailer park near Toluca. I was exhausted after this 11-hour drive. Around midday, we got caught in a torrential storm. Our cars plowed their way through the flooded road. At other times, the road would wind through mountainous terrain, and we often found ourselves stuck behind a fuming Diesel truck.

Time to relax now, at least for me and Wally. Ursula was busy preparing a delicious beef goulash dinner. Of course, there will be coffee and cake with a shot of Tequila before bedtime!

July 12th
This morning we headed toward Acapulco for a detour to the silver town Taxco. Besides many shops selling silver crafts, we found Taxco charming with its narrow, hilly streets and colonial-style buildings. Ursula and Barbara negotiated for neckless and rings.

On the recommendation of a local, we took another detour to visit an Aztec temple 17 miles away. It was the only one in Mexico partially carved from a massive rock. It was unique. Next, we took a look at the sacrificial temple of Xochicalco. It was adorned with serpentine ornaments and had an adjacent Ulama playfield. The Toltec and Mayan cultures played Ulama. Two teams played each other, moving a ball (only with their hips). The goal was to pass it through a hole in protruding stone built into the side wall. It was an honor to win the game and then be sacrificed to the gods. How cruel!

Later that afternoon, we drove to Mexico City. Man! What a jumble of roads and traffic jams. But the slow driving provided an opportunity to gaze at the map and figure out where we were going. After some searching, we found the Swiss Club. Nobody seemed home until the manager, Herr Obermüller, opened the gates for us. He allowed us to park the campers inside the gate and use the bathrooms and showers. The tall walls around the property made us feel safe. Ursula spoiled us again with delicious Rösti potatoes, sausage, and mixed salad.Read more
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Camper Travel 1974-1975 Traveler
Day 73 - Tula & Teotihuacán
July 13, 1974 in Mexico
Today we drove out of the City to visit the archeological site, Tula. Tula was the capital of the Toltecs in 800AD. It was a large site and was only partially excavated at this time. The statues of stacked stone blocks and masonry images of head-eating snakes were impressive.

We had Tacos for lunch, then drove to Teotihuacán, a much larger archeological site. It featured two pyramids (the Sun and the Moon), from where we had a good overview of the surrounding area. Some structures had faint ornaments and figures painted on plastered walls. Of course, like everywhere, there were lots of souvenir vendors. One was ready to exchange an “original” Aztec figurine for Heinz’s Norwegian sweater! They were persistent, constantly tugging at our sleeves, wanting to sell something. In the end, Heinz had mercy and donated a few pesos.

After closing, we drove back to the Swiss Club and had dinner at its restaurant. A banquet was happening in the room next door - free entertainment while we ate! Heinz played a chess game with Wolfgang, and we went to sleep early.Read more
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Camper Travel 1974-1975 Traveler
Day 74 - Anthropological Museum
July 14, 1974 in Mexico
The Swiss Club granted our request to leave the campers behind for the day.

The Anthropological Museum was on today's agenda. A taxi took us there for 11 Pesos. We spent the whole day in this amazing place and could have easily spent another day. All pre-Columbian civilizations were arranged in sequence so visitors could follow the history and evolution of each culture. The exhibits behind the glass were well displayed, with descriptions in Spanish and English. The museum's center had an open courtyard with a unique waterfall and benches everywhere to sit on.

The museum even had its restaurant, but we didn't eat there. We enjoyed dinner with our German friends in a small Tacos place in the city. Ahh, the ice-cold Cervecas felt so good!Read more
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Day 75 - WV, De Valle Motors SA
July 15, 1974 in Mexico
Wally had noticed that the rear wheel bearings had excessive play and suggested replacing them. So, this morning we drove to De Valle Motors SA, a VW Dealership. Once the camper was on the lift, the mechanic, Carlos (he spoke broken German), confirmed Wally’s diagnosis and said it would be ready by 5 PM. We all stayed there, watching the camper out of fear something could get stolen. SurIndeede was a bit paranoid, but all our belongings, including the movie camera and photographic equipment, were in the vehicle.

In the afternoon, Carlos appeared embarrassed and announced that the parts were not in stock. But not to worry! He did order them from another dealer, and they should arrive tomorrow. Typical Mexico, we guessed. We had no choice but to leave the car there, as the old bearings had already been stripped.

We grabbed our sleeping bags and needed things for the night, locked the car, and took a Taxi back to the Swiss Club. Herr Obermüller was nice enough to let us sleep upstairs by the toilets and showers in the dressing room.Read more
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Day 76 - Leaving Mexico City
July 16, 1974 in Mexico
We arrived at De Valle Motors SA by 9:00 AM to check on the car. The parts had indeed arrived, and Carlos was busy working on it. Upon completion, Wally checked the work to ensure everything was done correctly. The cost was $65.

As a gesture of goodwill for our long wait, Carlos gifted Wally a sheet of emery paper, filled our grease gun, and gave us a bottle of brake fluid and some Nitro. We were speaking of good customer service!

We dropped off letters and postcards at the Correo in the afternoon and then stopped at Kodak. Unfortunately, our pictures weren’t ready on time, and we must check again mañana. We all felt a slight headache, and our eyes burned. We assumed it was from the exhaust fumes. The pollution in Mexico City was awful.

July 17th
We decided to leave the city this morning. It sure had much more to offer, but we wanted to escape the pollution as quickly as possible. The Swiss Club charged us a reasonable $12 for the entire 5-day stay.

Wally left with Wolfgang and Barbara for Puebla to tour the Volkswagen manufacturing plant. Meanwhile, Ursula and I still had a few things to finish. Washing clothes, food shopping, and stopping at Kodak. The photos were ready this time, but ooh dear God, what a shabby quality!

After replenishing our wallet at Citibank, we successfully navigated our way out of the city and camped just before Puebla at an AAA Trailer Park.Read more
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Day 78 - Cholula - Oaxaca
July 18, 1974 in Mexico
Heinz and I visited the pyramid of Cholula, not too far from Puebla. It was about 150 feet tall, dating back to 300 BC. Interestingly, several civilizations expanded it. Each one built a new layer on top of the old one. The layers could be seen in the underground tunnels dug during exploration. The adjacent museum provided a good overview of the entire site. Then we met up with our travel partners and Wally.

Our next destination was the archaeological site Monte Albán near Oaxaca. Our German travel companions took a different route to get there. We stopped at a fruit stand to buy pineapples and take pictures of giant cactuses when a police patrol drove up and decided to "examine" us. It was a little scary, but everything went OK. They were good guys, just doing their job.

We continued driving and arrived after dark at the archeological site. Ursula was preparing dinner when soldiers with flashlights showed up and politely requested that we leave the area. We assumed they closed the site at night to protect it from looters. We backtracked about a mile down the mountain and spent the night in a passing spot by the side of the road.Read more
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Day 79 - Monte Albán
July 19, 1974 in Mexico
(Ursula) I woke up from a knock on the window. A farmer's children wanted to sell us fresh sheep milk. Heinz stepped out and purchased some.

Then he noticed our two missing deckchairs (we had tucked them under the camper last night). When he asked the kids about it, they pointed to a field where a boy guarded his sheep. When Heinz started walking towards the shepherd boy, he took off screaming and ran down the mountain to a farmhouse. Minutes later, his mother appeared with the chairs and returned them to us with an apology. We gave the milk children a few Pesos, and they left with happy smiles. That was quite a funny little episode!

The site of Monte Albán was exciting and had also been expanded by several cultures similar to Cholula. It was once the ancient capital of the Zapotecs, first built around 500 BC and last ruled by the Aztecs before the Spanish Conquistadores arrived. We stayed at a trailer park in Oaxaca for the night.Read more
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Camper Travel 1974-1975 Traveler
Day 80 - Disaster strikes!
July 20, 1974 in Mexico
(Ursula) Disaster Strikes!

We got up before 6 AM and drove in tandem toward Villahermosa.

Everything went well until Heinz tried to overtake a stinky Diesel truck going uphill. In his eagerness, Heinz accidentally shifted from third gear into second (instead of fourth). The engine gave a high-pitched scream; we heard a scratching noise and quit dead. We barely managed to pull over on the side of the road.

Wally made a funny face, which meant we were in big trouble. He began to perform a few tests on the engine and announced with a grim face that it was damaged. Luckily, our German friends noticed we were not following and turned around to rescue us. They towed us to a Volkswagen dealership in Juchitán. But it was Sunday, and the place was closed, so we camped by the entrance, contemplating what to do.

We didn't have the funds to pay for a new engine. How extensive was the damage? Could we fix it? How many days would it take? Does this mean we are going to miss the boat in Panama? Lots of scenarios raced through my head.

Heinz grabbed the Spanish dictionary and got busy preparing notes for his meeting with the VW people on Monday morning:

"Somos turistas de Suiza en un viaje a América del Sur y necesitamos su ayuda. Nuestro auto necesita un servicio de motor. Somos mecánicos y le pedimos permiso para realizar el trabajo nosotros mismos en su taller. Naturalmente, compraremos todos los repuestos que necesitamos de su negocio".

We all had a knot in our stomachs that night. Our only consolation was that it was just a broken engine. An accident would have been a lot worse. We prayed that the dealership would allow us to do the repairs ourselves.Read more
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Day 81 - VW Juchitán
July 21, 1974 in Mexico
(Ursula) None of us slept well last night. Wally and I kept our fingers crossed and chewed our nails when Heinz entered the office to see the manager, "El Gerente."

The negotiations went well because he returned with a smile and a thumbs-up gesture which meant Good News. The dealership would allow us to work on the engine outside the workshop and lend us special tools if needed. That was such a significant relief.

We pushed the camper onto the designated lot, and Wally immediately started working on the engine. Heinz was his helper. The priority was to assess the extent of the damage.

Wolfgang is feeling sick with a fever today and will stay in bed. Meanwhile, Barbara and I walked into town searching for a swimming pool. Unfortunately, there was no such luxury in this forsaken place.

By the evening, my men had the engine completely disassembled. Fortunately, the crankshaft and transmission didn't suffer any damage. The motor had a cracked cylinder head, broken pistons, and valves. Wally made a list of all the parts he needed, and the head mechanic, Juan, helped him translate it into Spanish. So far, so good!Read more
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Camper Travel 1974-1975 Traveler
Day 82 - Engine gets Disassembled
July 23, 1974 in Mexico
(Ursula) Our travel companions kept us company. Wolfgang was still in bed with a fever. The work rhythm was slow in Mexico. Everything seemed to take forever, and the language barrier didn't help either.

The dealership only carried a few of the parts we needed. Our 1700cc engine wasn't popular in Mexico, and we needed to get the parts abroad. The dealership suggested that we might be able to obtain them in Guatemala.

We decided to explore that possibility. Heinz and I walked to a gas station with an adjacent restaurant with a pay phone. Heinz flipped through the phone book and found the main Volkswagen dealership in Guatemala City. I helped him by throwing in the coins, and on the third try, he was able to get through.

A German-speaking fellow, Mr. Bosch, wrote down the order and said he would check the inventory - to call him back in an hour. Incredible!

An hour later, we called again, but Mr. Bosch wasn't available. After waiting and some back and forth, the secretary at the office confirmed that the parts were in stock, except the cylinder head. Heinz asked them to reserve the parts and said he would come and pick them up the next day.

Heinz boarded a bus to Guatemala City that same evening. His backpack contained a change of clothing, a toothbrush, and the broken parts, just in case. So far, so good!

It was hot and humid in Juchitán. Barbara was able to get two dozen eggs for us. Wally and I took a splash shower from a water hose by the workshop and tried to sleep, wondering how Heinz was doing.Read more
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Camper Travel 1974-1975 Traveler
Day 84 - Getting VW Parts
July 24, 1974 in Mexico
(Ursula) Wolfgang felt better this morning, and our companions could continue their journey. Perhaps we will meet them again between here and Panama at some point.

Wally and I wonder if Heinz's parts mission is going well and if he has already achieved something or was sitting somewhere desperately tearing his hair out!

Meanwhile, Wally is continuing to clean and recondition engine parts. While dismantling the other cylinder head, he discovered that (4) valve guides also needed to be replaced. So, I returned to the payphone, called the dealer in Guatemala City, and ordered the additional parts. They couldn't say whether Heinz had already been there, so we hoped for the best.

Wally and I went to a restaurant to eat dinner, and now our stomachs are growling.

(Heinz's Notes) On my way to Guatemala City. With each stop, more people hopped on the bus. The air conditioning wasn't working, but the half-open windows provided a welcoming breeze. It was hot and humid. Sweat was running down my body. The bus is quite full by now. The bag from a standing-room-only passenger was constantly banging my shoulder. Right behind me was a lady with a cage of chickens. It started to smell uncomfortable.

I changed buses in Tapachula and reached the Guatemalan border around 5 AM. The crossing was easy. I could register the old engine parts to avoid paying duty for the new parts on the way back (something I had learned while working for Piaget in New York). I had a bite to eat in a cafe, then located a direct bus to Guatemala City.

I arrived at 4:20 PM and immediately took a taxi to Continental Motors, S.A., where I met Mr. Bosch. He accompanied me to the spare parts department, where I received the parts and paid for the order.

It was nice to converse with Mr. Bosch in German. He advised me to stay at the Hotel Gran Continental. I followed his recommendation and went straight to bed after dinner. It felt luxurious to shower and sleep on an excellent soft mattress for a change! I was wondering how Ursula and Wally were doing.Read more
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Camper Travel 1974-1975 Traveler
Day 85 - Returning with the VW Parts
July 25, 1974 in Mexico
(Ursula) We could sleep in until the hot sun made us get up. Our stomachs feel OK again. I picked up a few croissants for breakfast; what a luxury!

Heinz is not back yet. Did he have problems?

Wally continued reconditioning engine parts. Meanwhile, I cut out a template, "EUROPA," from a piece of cardboard. It will be used to spray-paint the name on both sides of the camper roof. Then I washed our clothes.

A cold Coca-Cola is the most refreshing drink on a hot and humid day. The restaurant down by the gas station was our salvation!

In the evening, we offered the security guard a shot of Tequila. We conversed with him for a while in broken Spanish with the help of our hands and feet. After the second shot, he started talking in circles, and his tongue got slightly heavy. We were relieved when he finally shuffled off to work, and I could start cocking dinner.

(Heinz's Notes) I had breakfast at 6:45 AM at the hotel. The concierge brought me a message from Mr. Bosch that Ursula had called to order additional parts. The hotel was nice enough to let me exchange travelers-checks for the extra cash I needed.

I picked up the parts and took a taxi back to the bus terminal. I had ample time to obtain a new tourist visa there before hopping on the next bus back to Mexico. The border crossing went fine. It was already getting dark when I arrived in Tapachula. The connecting bus was not leaving until 3 hours later, allowing me to reflect on the success of my mission and relax with a cold beer and Tacos. The connecting bus had comfortable seats this time and plenty of space.

I slept almost the entire trip and woke up just before arriving in Juchitán.Read more
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Camper Travel 1974-1975 Traveler
Day 86 - Engine reassembly Challenge
July 26, 1974 in Mexico
(Ursula) Heinz stuck his head through the door in the wee hours this morning. Wally and I were suddenly awake and relieved he was back safely with all the parts.

Wally couldn't wait to get busy with the assembly process. The dealership workshop lacked hydraulic equipment for removing and installing the valve guides, but Wally found a local mechanics shop that did. The chief tech assured us that he had done this a hundred times and it would be ready in an hour. But the idiot installed the valve guides upside down and refused to correct the mistake. Wally tried to take them out himself, but it only worsened things. He cracked the cylinder head in the process. Ouch!

I just wanted to cry after Heinz's 30-hour trip to Guatemala and all the anxiety. The bump in the road changed into a mountain!

We decided to wait until the following day to discuss our options. Everyone was hungry, but none enjoyed dinner or slept well that night.

July 27th
(Ursula) It was already hot again early in the morning. After discussing the situation, Wally recommended we leave the valve guides as they were. Granted, they were upside down, but he thought it should not create a mechanical issue. However, we needed to find a place to weld the two cracked cylinder heads.

The two men left with the cylinder heads for town in search of a welding shop while I kept my fingers crossed. They showed up shortly after lunch, and I could tell by the look on their faces that they were successful. The cylinder heads were welded and saved! Wally thinks they should hold up just fine. My two heroes didn't lose a minute and immediately continued the assembly process.Read more
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Camper Travel 1974-1975 Traveler
Day 88 - Ready to continue the journey
July 28, 1974 in Mexico
(Ursula) Wally and Heinz completed the engine and used a hydraulic jack to reinstall this heavy thing where it belonged. That took a while but then came the moment of truth. Will the motor start up again? Wally turned the ignition key, and voilá .... she was humming again! A final adjustment on the carburetor and we were done.

We washed our baby and went for a test drive down the Panamerican Highway to the restaurant by the gas station. The guard back at the dealership was reluctant to open the gate for us, afraid we would disappear and not come back. We resolved that issue by promising him a shot of Tequila when we returned and left him our tape recorder as collateral!

July 29
(Ursula) Heinz and I were very proud of Wally and glad to be able to continue the journey. We didn’t know how to thank him enough for the work he had done for us.

After saying our goodbyes to the management and staff, we took a group photo in front of the dealership. The only thing left was to settle the account. Gerente Victor was extraordinarily fair and only charged us 250 Pesos for everything. We were pleasantly surprised and had every reason to be thankful. We only lost eight days which could have easily been 3-4 weeks. We should be OK meeting the August 19 deadline for the boat to Colombia.

And on, we went on our journey in the direction of Tapachula. Wally and Heinz were pleased with how the engine was running. The new front shocks made the ride a lot more pleasant too!

Crossing the border into Guatemala sounds easy, but it was not. It was a five-step process. Immigration, customs, car papers & insurance, and car search again. Heinz got quite irritated, and that didn’t help either. We were charged $5 for overtime and another $5 for disinfecting the tires. What a hassle! We better be more patient and get used to these lengthy, complicated procedures in the future. It’s just the way it was down here!Read more
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Day 90 - Guatemala
July 30, 1974 in Guatemala
(Ursula) We were awakened by shouting voices and the trampling of animals - Bienvenido a Guatemala!

We had arrived here late last night and didn’t realize (in the darkness) that we almost blocked a farm gate with our camper. The farmers found a way around it, though, and waved to us in a friendly manner as they led their cattle to pastures across the road. We are savoring fresh pineapple for breakfast before continuing toward Guatemala City.

We located a friendly Trailer Park (La Red) just before reaching the Capital and decided to stay for a few days. The place was unique, with its spacious lots separated by live fruit trees (lemons, oranges, mangos, papayas).

July 31st
This morning we took the bus into the city. The currency in Guatemala is Quetzal. We dropped off films at Kodak and picked up our mail at the Swiss Consulate. While reading the mail and savoring an ice cream at the Dairy Queen, we met a young Swiss backpacker couple, Martin and Ursula Seiler. They were from Langenthal, a city near where I was born.

We invited them to stay with us at the trailer park. The five of us plan to take a road trip to Antigua, the former Capital of this country, which was largely destroyed earlier by an earthquake.Read more
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Camper Travel 1974-1975 Traveler
Day 92 - Antigua, Guatemala
August 1, 1974 in Guatemala
Today is Swiss National Day. We can hardly believe we are already three months into this epic journey.

After a good breakfast with fresh bread from a nearby bakery, we headed for Antigua.

Instead of taking the direct route, we chose a secondary that led through the mountains. It was scenic and offered exciting places to visit, like the village of Santa Maria de Jesús. The indigenous people there appeared to be shorter. Barefoot women in their typical woven skirts and tops gathered around the village fountain, standing on stone blocks, washing clothes, chatting, and laughing.

Curious children of all ages looked so cute and were quite camera-shy. The huts were constructed of bamboo sticks and chicken wire fortified with clay.

From there, the road sharply descended the side of a former volcano toward Antigua, located in a valley surrounded by numerous other volcanoes. Antigua is famous for its churches and buildings from colonial times.

An earthquake in 1773 destroyed most of the city, and that was the end of the ancient capital. Antigua was nice and clean compared to other cities we had seen so far. We visited several churches, including the Baroque La Merced or what was still left. It must have been quite spectacular in its time.

But I wasn’t a big fan of churches, especially when you feel it could collapse. However, the monastery and adjacent catholic school were interesting, and I loved the open municipal market where we purchased fruits and vegetables for dinner.Read more
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Day 93 - Meet Sr. Jorge Senn
August 2, 1974 in Guatemala
(Ursula) We took the direct route back to Guatemala City, where we said goodbye to Martin & Ursula.

Heinz had just reported a lost traveler check at the American Express office when a black Limo pulled up next to us at a stop. A tinted window was lowered, and a gentleman stuck out his head and asked, "Wo wollen sie hin" (where are you heading)? He looked like a mobster in his business suit and dark sunglasses. We were naturally very skeptical. But then he got out of the car, handed us his business card, and introduced himself as Mr. Senn, Director of Tourism, Guatemala. Wow!

He invited us for a drink at a fancy hotel where he had guests from Switzerland staying. In our conversation, we learned that Mr. Senn was born in Guatemala to Swiss parents and was educated in Switzerland.

He asked how long we were staying and what places we intended to visit. Heinz mentioned that we were headed for Panama and would have loved to visit the archeological site Tikal, but were running behind schedule, due to an unexpected delay in Mexico.

Mr. Senn exclaimed that's no problem!

Little did we know that he was also the director of Aviateca, Guatemala Airlines. He promised to arrange for complimentary tickets for us to fly to Tikal. We should pick them up at the airport the next day. What? Really? Incredible!

We couldn't believe our luck and thanked him mucho. His guests from Switzerland had just returned from Tikal and said it was a fantastic experience.Read more
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Day 94 - Guatemala City
August 3, 1974 in Guatemala
(Ursula) Today we didn’t do anything special.

We picked up the Tikal tickets at the airport. They were indeed free of charge. The flight leaves tomorrow. We are very much looking forward to this adventure.

Then we drove to the city for some shopping. Heinz bought a Guatemalan top made from the typical hand-woven fabric. Wally found a matching shirt and shoes. Then we stopped by Amex and learned that the lost check issue was still pending - and were advised to check back on Monday.

We also purchased a louder horn for our VW bus. Wally installed it later at the trailer park. It seemed the sound was louder at the store where we purchased it, but perhaps it was just my imagination. Toward the evening, Wolfgang and Barbara joined us at the same trailer park by sheer coincidence.

We were happy to see them again. Everyone was hungry. We found a good restaurant and told them about repairing our VW engine in Mexico over dinner and a few cold beers.Read more
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Day 95 - Tikal
August 4, 1974 in Guatemala
(Ursula) We were on time at the airport. The plane was a two-engine TurboProp of the Aéreos Guatemalteca. Passing over a range of volcanoes, the plane descended to a reasonably low altitude above the jungle.

Flying in a smaller aircraft is much different from a jet. Air turbulence shook us quite a bit. I was glad when we landed less than an hour later. The runway was a strip of dirt cut out from the jungle. The terminal building consisted of a small yellow-painted wooden shack.

A bus took us to the archeological site. We all agreed that the temples were the most unusual of everything we had seen up to now in Central America. The stone structures were impressive and quite tall and steep. Climbing the steps was a challenge and put us quickly out of breath.

The temples served religious purposes. Each had a small platform where the ceremonies and rituals took place. Tikal dates back to between 200BC - 900AD and was perhaps the largest city of the Mayas, with approximately seven square miles. Water was non-existent. It had been collected during the rainy season and was kept in large underground wells.

Most of Tikal is still mostly overgrown with primeval jungle. Only the highest-elevation temples have been unearthed so far.

My brain worked overtime with hundreds of questions. We were thrilled to be given the chance to see this magical place. Thank you, Mr. Senn!

We were back at the La Red Trailer Park for dinner. In the evening, we had an interesting conversation with a group of American expats. Some had money and were traveling around. Others wanted to stay because living was inexpensive, but there weren’t enough jobs to sustain a decent living.Read more
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Camper Travel 1974-1975 Traveler
Day 96 - La Red Trailer Park
August 5, 1974 in Guatemala
August 5th & 6th
(Ursula) There is nothing special to report.

We returned to Kodak and picked up the developed slides. Then we stopped at the Swiss Consulate to pick up more mail.

Wally painted EUROPA on both sides of the camper roof, with the SUIZA in the front & back. He received a letter from Johanna and is considering flying back to Vancouver.

I purchased a pair of fun shoes. Amex replaced the lost $100 traveler's check.

Heinz purchased liability insurance to cover us until Panama.Read more
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Camper Travel 1974-1975 Traveler
Day 98 - Exploring a Volcano
August 7, 1974 in Guatemala
(Ursula) The activity planned for today is to see a volcano up close. Wolfgang & Barbara thought it was too risky and decided to visit a weaver village instead.

The risky thing was not the volcano but parking and leaving the car unattended at the village where the trail begins. We heard rumors about a camper that was broken into and robbed.

Risky or not, we are in Guatemala and didn’t want to miss this opportunity.

When we arrived at the village, Heinz parked the camper in the middle of the village square, clearly visible from all angles. Soon a group of young boys came running up to us. One of them seemed to be their leader. Heinz handed him 10 Pesos for guarding the camper while we were gone and promised him an additional 20 Pesos when we returned and found everything in good order.

The terrain was pretty steep. Halfway up the volcano, we met a guide with a mule who offered to take us to a point where we could observe the volcanic action. We watched from a distance as red-hot lava squeezed out from the side of the volcano and slid down the slope, smoking. Even from hundreds of yards away, we could feel the tremendous heat. Watching it was imposing, and we could imagine what was happening deep inside.

We took a shortcut and slid down a steep volcanic slope on the way back. That was great fun! But our shoes, socks (and feet) will need a thorough cleaning tonight!

Meanwhile, the camper had been well guarded by the boys, as Heinz predicted. They were thrilled with the extra 20 Pesos.

Then we sat down for a cold drink and something to eat at the restaurant on the square. The owners had a bunch of cute little kittens we fell in love with. To make a long story short, we drove home with one frightened little creature. I converted my shopping basket into a cat bed where he slumbers comfortably. We named him Büsi.

That same evening, Wally attempted to pack his suitcase for Vancouver, but then he changed his mind and decided to continue traveling with us.

We can only imagine how torn up he must be over his love for Johanna.

Stats: Miles 24, Expenses $11.50Read more
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Day 99 - Heading for El Salvador
August 8, 1974 in El Salvador
(Ursula) I tried to take a morning walk with Büsi, but the poor creature was shaking with fear all over his body.

Wolfgang & Barbara wanted to rest for a few more days, while we preferred moving on to El Salvador and meeting them later on the road.

Before leaving the country, we had to get a replacement part for our Coleman stove.

Then we endured the border crossing into El Salvador. On the Guatemalan side, officials tried to charge us money for things that didn’t make sense. When Heinz politely asked for a written receipt, they grumpily let us leave.

The El Salvador side was complicated, but all went smoothly. It just required lots of time and patience.

Immigration requested us to fill out a particular form. It seemed extremely important that the field “Occupation” was filled in. We had to giggle about that.

After that, the Carnet de Passage en Duane had to be stamped. Then the camper was thoroughly examined by customs. What could we be hiding?

A hundred yards further, there was another checkpoint - the Transit Police. Thank God we had our liability insurance and all the papers in order. The only thing we still needed to pass is the military checkpoint. Oh well, it is all part of the experience!

Stats: Miles 196, Expenses $41.75Read more
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Day 100 - El Salvador
August 9, 1974 in El Salvador
(Ursula) Yesterday, we stayed overnight on the shore of Lago Ilapango, 8 miles beyond the capital San Salvador. A nearby bar was open and had cold beer. Büsi licked milk and ate ham, but she was still shaking and afraid.

The national currency here is Colón. We didn’t stop anywhere to sightsee, but we liked what we saw of El Salvador. The terrain was hilly and lush. Farmers grow corn, bananas, pineapple, oranges, mangos, papayas, and melons. There are also lots of coconut palms and coffee plantations.

Was it only my imagination? El Salvador people seemed better nourished and taller than Guatemalans.

The border crossing into Honduras was cumbersome, but we endured it patiently. Pigs and chickens walked back and forth between the officials - no one seemed to care.

Border areas always seem to attract merchants who want to sell you something. A traveler from Guatemala offered us chewing gum and asked for a ride. We took him along and chatted. He was an interesting guy, but we couldn’t figure out what his actual occupation was. We got a little tense when he started talking bout handguns and recommended we carry a firearm in Honduras. Then he asked to be dropped off at the next village, and we relaxed again.

We proceeded to Choluteca, where we went shopping and found a Trailer Park owned by American Jim Hatkins. Büsi is slowly getting used to us. He was sniffing the area around the camper and found his way back. Two little girls kept me company while I was preparing dinner. I thought they were so sweet.

A local brought fresh string beans and introduced us to his dog, calculator, and transistor radio.

Trucks refueling at a nearby gas station let us sleep very little that night. Besides, cats are definitely nocturnal animals. Büsi bit our fingers and was on a discovery mission inside the camper all night.

Stats: Miles 170, Expenses $27.10Read more
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Camper Travel 1974-1975 Traveler
Day 101 - Honduras
August 10, 1974 in Honduras
(Ursula) It feels so comfortable here at this Trailer Park. My two heroes had work to do on the car. Meanwhile, I was relaxing and swinging comfortably in a hammock.

The national currency here is Lempira.

In the afternoon, we continued our journey to San Marcos de Colón, where we ate lunch at the Hilton.

They charged us an extra $5.10 at the Nicaragua border because it was Saturday. Some of their policies are puzzling me. They take every opportunity to make an extra buck.

Nicaragua didn’t look much different from Honduras.

We stopped twice for sightseeing and desperately looked for a place to camp. Meanwhile, it was getting dark, and the best spot we could find was by a brightly lit gas station in the shadow of a large truck.

Not so ideal, but at least it seemed safe.

Stats: Miles 181, Expenses $17.60Read more
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Camper Travel 1974-1975 Traveler
Day 102 - Nicaragua
August 11, 1974 in Nicaragua
(Ursula) We searched every place this morning, but Büsi was nowhere to be found. Was he hiding somewhere, or did he get lost? We resumed our search after breakfast and finally found him tucked under the front driver seat where he had been all night.

There isn’t much new to say about the landscape. It was mountainous and sub-tropical, similar to Guatemala and El Salvador.

We noticed billboards with advertisements of American companies and products as we approached the capital Managua. The city wasn’t impressive at all. Not much had been rebuilt since the 1972 earthquake. The city center looked like a war zone.

The national currency here is Cordoba.

We stopped in Casara on a Pacific beach, ate something, and swam. Büsi followed us and was hit by a wave. He got totally soaked and was trembling with fear.

We are staying at a small Trailer Park about 43 miles south of Managua tonight.

There was a stinky smell in the camper! It will probably take a while until our meow-meow is “housebroken.”Read more
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