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  • Day 289

    Rapture Surf Camp // My first Surfboard

    October 12, 2017 in Nicaragua ⋅ ⛅ 29 °C

    The use of the surfboards were part of my deal. But as I was to choose a board after all the guests had picked a board I sometimes had to change board every day. So when I knew I was coming back to Rapture for another 3 month I tried to find my own board. Just a week before flying back to Nica I saw an add on facebook for a board exactly like I was looking for. 6‘8“ long with a lot of volume for a decent price. I wrote the girl and she was staying at the hostel just down the road from Rapture!
    I talked to Johannes (one of the owners of the surfcamp) and he went to check it out for me and brought it back to the camp.
    Obviously he was also interested in keeping the board for the camp. So when I got there a week later it was already rented out to the guests 😅
    But as he fixed some dings for this reason I didn‘t complain. The girl who was using it was staying 2 more days so for my first few days I got back into surfing on a 7‘2“ I took from the camp till I finally went for my first session on my first own surfboard 😍
    I fell in love immediately. Due to a lot of volume the board was really forgiving and easy to catch waves on. But due to its shape I was still able to turn it.
    The only thing I hated was the ugly huge logo on both sides. And I always had to look at it while sitting in the lineup waiting for my wave. So I figured it’s time to get creative and painted a big blue triangle over it. Now it was really my board!
    I learned a lot now that I was surfing constantly the same board. I remember the first time I managed to turn up on the face of the wave and then go back down purposely! I was so stoked.
    And even though I still had really bad days when nothing seemed to work, I still managed to get more confidence and just go for it.

    Unfortunately taking the board home would have been ridiculusly expensive on my flight so I had to leave it behind - probably one of the hardest good byes...
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