2015 Mexico & Cuba

November 2015 - January 2016
A 52-day adventure by Alban Read more
  • 42footprints
  • 4countries
  • 52days
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  • 61.6kkilometers
  • 58.6kkilometers
  • Day 22

    Icecream!

    December 20, 2015 in Mexico ⋅ ☀️ 32 °C

    This shop makes your icecream as you watch! They blend the ingredients, then cool the mix on a -40°C plate and keep mixing with spatulas as it freezes. Aleisha chose mango-pineapple-tamarind with a little chili. Delicious!Read more

  • Day 22

    Mira arrives to Huatulco

    December 20, 2015 in Mexico ⋅ 🌙 24 °C

    Yesterday Mira stayed at Puerto Escondido when we came to Huatulco, this evening she Cait the bus to join us. The bus was due to arrive about 12.30am, so I drove to meet her. She rang to say that she was at the bus terminal at Santa María de Huatulco. I asked if she was sure it wasn't Santa Cruz de Huatulco but she was sure. So I cursed and set off, 35 mins driving at night on bad roads to Santa María de Huatulco. On arrival Google navigated me to the bus station but I ran out of battery just before arriving. It was a really bad dirt road, but there wasn't any bus station. On the main road I asked the only people around, a couple packing up a food stall. There is no bus station they told me, it was moved to Santa Cruz a few years ago. So with no phone or navigation I returned 35 mins on the same bad roads to Santa Cruz, and found Mira there, then took her back to the rented apartment arriving about 2am. Grrr.Read more

  • Day 24

    Huatulco to Tuxtla Gutierrez

    December 22, 2015 in Mexico ⋅ 🌙 13 °C

    We were out by 10am, Luci driving, arid windy road, spindly trees that look 90% dead, even the nopal cacti look dried up. Hanging birds nests in the trees. After a while I took over the driving, the road roughly 10km inland, roughly parallel to the coast. Most rivers were dry.

    All bridges have names, so not far from Salina Cruz we came across a bridge with a sign saying "Puente Sin Nombre" ("Bridge Without Name").

    At La Ventosa there were many wind turbines, maybe 300 at a guess, with about 15% not working.

    Approaching Arriaga at a tope locals were collecting money for a man with cancer, they had a rope across the road so as to be able to force cars to stop and give money.
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  • Day 32

    Cuba day 0 Havana accommodation issues

    December 30, 2015 in Australia ⋅ 🌙 12 °C

    Luci had given up on finding a decent place to stay a week or so ago, so I started looking. There are a number of web sites offering 'casas particulares', private houses renting a room or two. One booked us in and we were sent photos and confirmation along with a promise to pick us up at the airport.

    When we got through immigration and customs there was no-one waiting for us. The information desk offered to ring the place we were meant to stay, turns out they were full and so didn't bother to come pick us up. But after the phone call they did organize another place for us to stay, at a discounted price of CUC25 for the inconvenience.

    A taxi driver called José took us there, but there was no-one home (or maybe he tookiselsewhere, we wouldn't have known). So he took us to someone he knew and they got a friend to get a room ready for us, apparently normally rented to a student, but she is on holidays to the US at the moment). I imagine that he got a cut of what we will pay. It is just before new year, so pretty much everything is booked out.

    As I write this it's almost 1am, hopefully the room will be ready soon as we are dead tired...
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  • Day 32

    Cuba day 1 Havana

    December 30, 2015 in Mexico ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    After the recent long days we slept in. Last night we had changed only €50 into CUC52 (Cuban Convertible Pesos, the dominant of the two official currencies here), having been told the exchange rate was better in town. But the taxi fare was CUC35, so there wasn't a lot left over.

    Aleisha was grumpy because Mira had ignored a clear SMS request in Puerto Escondido to pick up her shorts that Luci had previously forgotten to pick up, with the result that they were now lost.

    Walking through Central Havana Mira was really excited. beaming all the time. Luci was getting hungry and agitated as we didn't have enough money for breakfast and Aleisha was nonplussed by it all. The city looked very run down. Quite a lot of empty buildings, some very derelict with no roof and plants growing in them, others converted to mini markets or workshops or whatever. There weren't many shops, and those that were there had very poor selections. We passed a couple of butchers, each no more than a counter a metre or so wide with a few hunks of meat sitting on it in the open, waiting to be cut and sold. The vegetable selection seemed to be limited to carrots, onions and coriander. though we later also ate lettuce, tomato and zucchini in restaurants. Nothing seemed in very good condition. There were not many cars, most were either Soviet era vehicles looking their age or 1950s US cars, some immaculately cared for and polished, others not quite so good.

    It was a long walk, 20 blocks or so, to the Capitol, a large imposing building similar to the US Capitol in Washington. But Luci was getting really hungry so we continued to the Parque Central where we ate at the Hotel Inglaterra which looked like it was straight out ot the 1960s but accepted credit cards (unlike most places here). Luci really liked the live music though it was really loud. Unfortunately the food was unexciting. Mira and I chose the "farm sandwich" which turned out to be a toasted cheese sandwich (just toast and cheese, very dull), some lettuce and mini tomatoes. Luci and Aleisha fared better with egg dishes.

    Across the park we entered Habana Vieja, Old Havana, and walked down Calle Obispo to find a bank. This was a different world. Pedestraians only, lots of people (all tourists apart from the Cubans working there). Very picturesque all the same. The queue in front of the Casa de Cambio (money exchange was long) so we tried to find an ATM. But that didn't work because they only accept Visa cards issued by non-US banks. Our Suncorp Visa card is processed by Citicorp, so we couldn't use that. Tensions were beginning to run high as I decided to queue and Luci decided to look for somewher with a smaller queue.

    So Luci and Aleisha took a taxi to a hotel far away along the malecon and changed some Euros. I queued 45 minutes, and got in 5 minutes before the closing time. But they wouldn't accept Luci's travel card because it had her signature, and my Suncorp Visa card was not good either. Unfortunately my Mastercard was where we are staying, and not with me. Disappointed I went to leave, then thought to change some euros cash so at least we would have something.

    While I was queuing Mira went to find another ATM then apparently came back, but I didn't see her. Meanwhile Luci had gone with Aleisha to the Hotel Nacional and had changed some Euros cash. We had arranged to meet at the Cafe Europa. but when I went there I saw no-one I knew. So I went exploring, looking at old forts and so on. Some time later
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  • Day 33

    Cuba day 2 Havana, Aleisha's birthday

    December 31, 2015 in Mexico ⋅ 🌙 12 °C

    Luci went to change money. I fixed Aleisha's jump suit. Went to meet Luci in the Plaza Vieja. Slow service, no natural juices, Luci grumpy, breakfast in first floor bar, I got stuck in toilet. Luci desperately looking for place for dinner, CUC65 then a la carte at La Mina. I walked, Luci, Mira & Aleisha took a 'coco taxi' along Malecón to Hotel Nacional. Walked to house.

    Out late to restaurant, no music, poor food choice. Aleisha grumpy. Luci grumpy. Go to Plaza Vieja, Mira saves the day. Luci still grumpy because no dancing in the streets. And pay in front of cathedral blocked.

    Twerking
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  • Day 34

    Cuba day 3: Havana on New Years Day

    January 1, 2016 in Cuba ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

    Despite Mira's complaints that we should be up early to take advantage of the day it was very difficult to get her up. Aleisha was no easier.

    We had arranged breakfast with our host for CUC5 each. If turned or to be Frankfurters, ham and cheese scrambled eggs, chide and yellow bread rolls. Not really exciting but ok.

    We discussed what we would like to do over the next days, then Mira left early to meet (new) friends in the Plaza Vieja, we agreed to meet at the Museo de la Revolución later on.

    Luci, Aleisha & I went to the Museo de la Revolución. It was poorly signed, difficult to follow what happened. It was the previous Presidential Palace, with some detiails of an attampt on Batista's life in 1957, out of 35 assailants only 3 survived. Also photos ant other info on the revolution. More interesting were the Granma yacht, some remains of a U2 shot down in 1963, a rocket of the kind that downed it, and a couple of saircraft used during the revolution.

    We didn't see Mira. Luci was in a rush so she got a taxi and we headed off toward the university. On the way we decided to continue to the Viazul bus terminal as she really wanted to leave Havana. There we found out that all buses were booked out to go anywhere in the next few days. Luci was very disappointed and wanted to return to Mexico. We looked for a while for a phone SIM but no luck, then decided to take a bus instead of a taxi. Local buses here are articulated, this one with loud Latin music.

    In town there was a huge crowd around the theatre, rumour has it that Raul Castro was there. Luci insisted on going twice down Obispo St to find 'something' to take back for the dinner that we would have at the Casa Arrendador, I was getting edgy as we were now very late, and couldn't believe it when she and Aleisha appeared with... 4 plastic glasses with melting icecream in them. We got a taxi back and arrived before they had totally melted.

    Dinner turned out to be chicken fried with lemon juice, which Luci and Mira seemed to like a lot.

    While there we met a German couple who announced they had gone to the airport and had been told that if they arrived there at 4am they would definitely get on the flight to Santiago. Luci was delighted by this, declaring if we can't go to Santiago then she will go back to Mexico.

    About 9.30 Mira went out to "meet a friend for 30 mins". There was the Minnie issue of how to get to the airport in the morning, it would have to be a prearranged taxi but Vilma couldn't find anything, nor helping hugely by promising to tell us when a taxi had agreed but then going to sleep instead. Baby suggested taking the same taxi as the Germans on a second trip, but Luci rang one she had used earlier who was happy to take us, and at 2/3 the price. We packed, I went to bed, around 12.30 Luci poked me in the ribs saying "how can you sleep when Mira is out so late and we don't know where she is?" I replied that worrying wouldn't really help
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  • Day 36

    Cuba day 5: Santiago

    January 3, 2016 in Mexico ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    Not feeling so good, so wanted a lazy day. Some issues negotiating what happens next, Luci wanted to move to another Casa Arrendador even though these very nice and helpful, also wanted to stay in Santiago extra days

    Long chat with guy of house. Standard wage CUP250 = CUC10 per month. They complement it with accommodation, but don't declare all the takings. But they have to declare all guests, if not potential big fine because the host is representative of the guest if anything goes wrong. Guests also fined if not registered CUC1500. I washed clothes, noticed the water tank was overflowing, apparently after several years of drought water now is only reliably available once a fortnight. His son joined an opposition party, hence labeled counter-revolutionary, tried to go to the US in a launch but was caught by US border guard and returned to Cuba, now in gaol 6 months, will probably go to Australia as a refugee.

    Talked about the 'special time' after support from the USSR stopped, everyone lost weight incuding Mariano who dropped to 118 lbs (53.5kg, now more like 80 kg!)

    Luci went out early afternoon, told Aleisha she'd be back by sundown, but when she wasn't an hour later we went looking for food. First stop was a pizzeria just around the corner, very cheap because prices are in CUP, but long lines so long waits, and Aleisha didn't want greasy food. So we proceded to the Malecon along the waterfront, went to a restaurant and were told there would be a 30 minutue wait even though the waitresses were standing around doing nothing. After waiting 15 mins or more Mira went to ask and was told the wait was now an hour or more, and that was to see the menu.

    Horse-drawn carts were taking people around, this is not an uncommon method of transport.

    We walked to the centre where a tout took us to restaurant '2 blocks away, normal prices' (acctually 4 blocks and expensive). Aleisha grumpy due hunger and long walk while ill. Tout hangs around. Seat pinches me (turns out that seat slats separate when no weight, then close up when. one sits on it and it moves back Food so so. Rice with prawns (me) and chicken (Mira), over-salted bean soup. Usual Cuban salad: thinly sliced white cabbage, cucumber and semi-ripe tomato.
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