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The Wild Atlantic Way

May – June 2024
  • Jane Allen
A 25-day adventure by Jane Read more
  • Jane Allen

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  • Jane AllenTravelerThe Wild Atlantic Way

    We are NOT going over the Conor Pass

    May 22, 2024 in Ireland ⋅ 🌬 11 °C

    Once we set off out from Inch Beach Campsite, Paul drives straight across the road and onto the beach with the motorhome. Where are you going? I ask. "I'm taking you onto Inch Beach. Seen as my wife has not been on this beach, how can anyone miss this, I don't get it!" says Paul. Great, thanks 👍. Finally, we set off to do the Slea Head Drive a loop starting and ending at Dingle. The first stop was Ventry Beach, so Molly could have a run around and some sniffs.
    Then, a quick stop for a photo of the Cross at Slea Head on the Western most point of Ireland. Continuing on to Radharc na mBlascaodaí (Blaskets View), you can see the 6 Blasket Islands from here. Except I had a very insistent seagull that no matter how close I got refused to move 😅 . Next , onto Dunquin Pier with a coffee and cake for Paul at the top. Once we had done the Slea Head loop and back in Dingle, sat nav set up to take us to Tralee for the night. Now Conor Pass (according to the info books) is an epic single-track mountain-pass that sits 410m above sea level. Liken to Bealach Na Ba Pass on NC500 in Scotland (practically impossible to do in a motorhome workout getting stuck) We avoided this route when we did NC500 a couple of years ago, opting for the longer route. Off we trot climbing slowly up a hill in the trusty motorhome. The clouds are very low, and it's quite misty. "Stop, I want to take a picture of the I say to Paul. I open the cab door, which is immediately taken out of my hands by the wind 🌬 and very nearly off its hinges!!! I spot a viewpoint across the road and run over for a shot. I can see Paul gesticulating at me and shouting something. So I head backIT'S THROWING THE VAN ALL OVER, COME ON!!!!, he is shouting. On we go with low hanging rocks and steep drops. It's a bit scary, is this... I'm glad we are not going over the Conor Pass!!! I later found out the picture I had taken called 'An Chonair' was the Conor Pass summit 🫣 Ah well, we went over Conor Pass 😳. That was enough fun for one day. So we drove alongside Mount Brandon with a quick stop at Castlegregory Beach, also known as 'The Gold Coast'. It was too windy and cold for me to get out. Instead, I managed to get a photo of Paul, shielding his eyes from the sandstorm. We finally arrived in Tralee and headed off into town to sink some guiness and listen to traditional Irish music 🎶 and an episode of Kin before bed 😴 and our last night in County Kerry.    Read more

  • Jane AllenTravelerThe Wild Atlantic Way

    Leaving Kerry on the Ferry

    May 23, 2024 in Ireland ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C

    Our final couple of hours in County Kerry, before heading across on the ferry to County Claire. First stop Banna Strand beach for Molly to have a play. Although the sun was shining, the wind was up, making it feel colder than it was. Next into Ballybunion (apparently supposed to be a mini Blackpool, popular with the Irish folk for holidaying), we fell a sucker to Google Maps once again and ended up in a bit of a predicament. On a single path road, no more than 25 metres onto the very rocky beach and unable to turn. 😳 A bit of reversing, a 10 point turn, and a much calmer Paul. We managed to safely get back on to the real road. Only then going down a one-way street, which we didn't realise until later, when we walked past. Thankfully, no cars had come our way, luck must have been on our side for this one 🙏 Paul had worked up a bit of an apetite by now so first stop for him was a full breakfast, whilst I went to my favourite shop to stock up, Supervalu. Molly also got some doggy cream and biscuits, which went down a treat. 😋 Ballybunion is home to a 19th-century castle 🏰, which was once a prison, but today houses a golf club. Former president Bill Clinton has played here a couple of times, and there is a statue of him as you enter the town. Then, onto Tarbert to catch the ferry ⛴️ across the mouth of Shannon to Killimer, County Clare. We settled in a lovely site on the water at Doonaha at the start of the loop head peninsula. We had a lovely chilled evening with some home cooked grub (pizza for Paul) and a couple more episodes of Kin 🙃Read more

  • Jane AllenTravelerThe Wild Atlantic Way

    Looping Loop Head

    May 24, 2024 in Ireland ⋅ ☀️ 13 °C

    Breakfast in Kilbaha at Keatings on the sea front, next stop New York. We bumped into a couple of curious Cows 🐄 along the way. With full bellies, it's off to Loop Head Lighthouse. The Bridges of Ross next stop to take some photos of us on the bridge. (The pink dot you can see in the pictures is me!!! I put my Crocs onto sport mode and also did a bit of rock climbing) There is only one bridge that has stood the test of time. The two others have previously eroded away. It had some amazing looking seaweed that looked like giant locks of hair. The last stop of the Loop Head was Kilkee Cliffs, spending 10 minutes on my own taking in all the sights, sounds, and smells 🧘‍♀️ Our final stop for the next couple of days is Doolin. But not before a quick refreshment stop and to absorb some vitamin D at a pssing pub 😜. Paul has not stopped going on about Doolin and Gus O'Connor bar. He thought he was going to watch the FA Cup final on Saturday, but apparently, there are no pubs in Doolin at all showing the game 😵‍💫 ⚽️⛔️. I did some home cooked food and sat outside catching the last of the sun 🌤 before heading to the pub to check it out. ✅️The pub was full of pissed up young kids celebrating 🍾 their graduation. Smashing glasses and spitting 🤮 I must be getting old and less tolerant. Paul reminded me on numerous occasions, " we were young once, you know" 🙄Read more

  • Jane AllenTravelerThe Wild Atlantic Way

    Did someone mention FOOTBALL ⚽️ 🤔

    May 25, 2024 in Ireland ⋅ 🌬 11 °C

    There was not much to report back on a wet Saturday in Doolin. On a positive note, it was the first rainy day of the holiday so far ✌️. We had, had a couple of nights with rain throughout the night. It always sounds worse than it is in a Moho, which keeps you awake, or I end dreaming of floating away like Noah's Ark 🤪. There was also a small matter of a local derby on F A Cup final day 🏆😴 Having been unable to suppress my frustration at the constant one-sided conversation of football over the last couple of days (in reality weeks). I had finally spilt my thoughts to Paul in a rant the previous evening. When you are together in such a small space 24/7, it was inevitable!! Apparently, I don't get it 🧐. I do get it, but I am just not interested 🫣. So the morning was peaceful and subdued, without much chatter. Equalling a morning coffee ☕️ in peace (great). I had resigned myself to a chilled day in the Moho with Molly and a chance to catch up on 'Race Across the World' on BBC 🤎 I love this programme and some reading 📚 ( I didn't get out of my PJ'S all day, heaven 😀) . Paul set off in the pouring rain to go to a pub that wasn't showing the game 🙄. He returned back a couple of hours later, a happy boy as his team had won, and he had managed to watch the game on BBCiplayer on his phone 👌(win/win). My rant must have worked as he then made numerous phone calls to people who did want to listen and engage in football conversation. I was thankful the game was done, and we now might be able to have a change of conversation. Even if it is about the weather and his upcoming 60th 😶‍🌫️.......Read more

  • Jane AllenTravelerThe Wild Atlantic Way

    💥Sparks fly on the cliffs

    May 26, 2024 in Ireland ⋅ 🌬 11 °C

    We decided to stay an extra night in Doolin so we could see some of the sights. Today's plan was to walk from Doolin to Cliff of Moher walk. It's a beautiful 8k scenic route. Fun Fact: COM has been used as a filming location 📽 in Harry Potter and the Half-Blood Prince 🤴. Thankfully, we were kitted out and prepared for all weather, which we got. Started off in shorts and a T-shirt, had on hat waterproofs coat and pants, then back off again 😒. We were walking back down the Cliffs, and you could hear electricity buzzing. "That's an electric fence, that Jane, mind it. I can't remember the last time I got an electric shock. I think I was a kid. " Paul is chatting away behind me. Less than 20 metres later, we come to a very muddy patch. So I grab onto the fence wire (under the electric bit) to help keep my balance. I hear a scream behind me and turn round to Paul bent over, clutching his hand ✋️. Yes, you guessed it, he had shocked himself 🤣(take heed of your own advice, Pops). I couldn't stop laughing 🤣 😂 😆. 11 miles later, we finished back in Doolin for some well-earned couple of drinks. The only downside to Doolin and a lot of the places we have visited, they are not dog friendly 👎. So, instead, we had to freeze sat outside (like outcasts!!) for the 5 pints in 5 different pubs, whilst everyone else was nice and toasty inside, listening to Irish music 🎶 🥶. I did keep nipping in for a quick warm with a loo excuse. Paul's hands were visibly shaking 🫨 and teeth chattering!!. Adamant, we were staying out because we had run out of stock at home on our nice, toasty Moho. There is no single grocery shop in Doolin to buy essentials (crazy!l), although you can buy a variety of Aaran knitwear, fridge magnets, and guiness paraphernalia. We did manage to squeeze in Russell's Chip Shop, Molly had her own fish and sausage, and I had a very good vegan burger 🍔 😋 Paul even stopped off for an ice-cream on the way home (think he was trying to prove a point) and Molly got some cream as well.Read more

  • Jane AllenTravelerThe Wild Atlantic Way

    How many walls!!!! 😳

    May 27, 2024 in Ireland ⋅ ☀️ 14 °C

    Final day in Doolin. Up and off the site early to catch the 10 am ferry across to Inis Oirr (Inisheer), one of the 3 Aran Islands. A real isolated fishing 🎣 village. 15 minutes over on the ferry. Molly was a bit apprehensive at first, but she soon settled down (she is such a good dog 🐕 ❤️). It was pissing down when we arrived (bloody great, Paul the weatherman didn't predict this!🌧☔️). The island only has a population of 300 residents. Irish is still the first language. Apparently, school children from the mainland are often sent for their summer break to brush up on their native tongue. The islands are also renowned for their traditional Aran knitwear.
    We were greeted when we arrived with several horses and carts, one of the main ways of touring around the island. The other is by pedal bike. We thought it best to use our good old legs with having Molly in tow, even though one of the guys was happy to take her in the horse and cart. We finally found a shop for a quick caffeine buzz 😁☕️.
    The most striking view was the sheet number of stone walls on the tiny island. It looked like a maze of walls!!! With the odd cow or donkey dropped in 🤨
    The plassy is a rusty red shipwreck that is featured on the Father Ted intro ( I YouTubed it, to check ✔️), which we walked to. Paul got chatting to the guy behind the coffee shack (2nd coffee for him) who lived in Brazil, 🇧🇷 but had come over to live and work on the island during the summer season 🤔 (how random). We didn't manage to see the lighthouse at the end of the island close up. We could see it in the distance but couldn't work out how to get to it through the maze of walls!! Another coffee stop and scone for Paul (and he wonders why he can't sleep 🙄) at the Seaweed Cafe. Before heading up for a quick photo-stop at the ruin of O’Brien’s Castle. We then headed back to the Marina to catch the ferry back to the mainland. Not before Paul made another stop for chips and curry 🫣. Next stop Galway City for two nights leaving County Clare behind 👋 Ooh and a visit to Hazel Mountain, Bean to Bar Irish Chocolatier on the way, to pick up some vegan chocolate 🍫 😀    Read more

  • Jane AllenTravelerThe Wild Atlantic Way

    Galway Girl

    May 28, 2024 in Ireland ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

    The weather today was pretty shit. We can't grumble, though, as we have been lucky so far. We had already planned a drinking day in Galway City, so it didn't bother us too much 🙃
    I am sitting here writing this, i have about 100 flies on me (literally like flies round shit). I can't type they are on my phone. One has just gone up my nose!! 😑 I can't see they all are over my glasses 😫 (that reminds me, it must be time for a shower!! 🤣)
    Anyway, back to it.......
    Off we set walking, managing to dodge the heavy rain showers along the strand. The first stop was in one of the pubs on Paul's list (obvs!!). We were the only ones in the bar until a man walked in. Molly had her first random bark at him. We thought she had lost her voice, we can't remember the last time she barked!!! He saw Molly and said "oh I have just realised I forgot my dog in the car" 🙄. The forgotten dog was also a labrador. They both had a good sniff and play. In one of the bars, I stumbled across a good idea for a family drinking game, 'drink roulette'. Can't wait to try this at the next family get-together 🙌 . Feeling rather merry, we made it to the Galway Latin quarter. It was bustling and lots of shops 🥳. Most people who have consumed alcohol get 'loose lips', I get 'loose zips' (on my purse 👛!!l). Or should I say my purse, but Paul's money inside my purse ( as he continues to frequently remind me). We assumed standard procedure, I set Paul up in a bar with a guiness whilst I go and potter. Unfortunately for me, (fortunately for Paul), there was not much to catch my eye. I couldn't possibly buy another fridge magnet, as there is no more room on the heater (it's the only thing that's magnetic) in the moho. However, I did purchase a bandana wool scarf for Molly, which she wore for the remainder of the day/evening🤑. After some food (place recommended), we headed off for the long walk home (just a little bit tipsey) ☺️ P.S. I took a photo of the diving platform (yellow jetty thing) when we were walking in and walking back. You can see how much the tide has come in, and people were still parking up. Go and jump off at 9 at night 🌙 🫡 And Molly cuddling Pops at the end of the night (this is the man that doesn't allow dogs on the bed, unless he is pissed!!)    Read more

  • Jane AllenTravelerThe Wild Atlantic Way
    1

    Do not judge a book by its cover

    May 29, 2024 in Ireland ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    We left Galway City, headed towards Clifden, our next stop, at the Eco Beach, Camping, and Caravan Park. First, a pit stop for Paul 😛 for a coffee and a sarnie, whilst I made my own in the van
    😙 ). The drive along the Connemara coast is out of this world. Full of rust coloured bogs, colourful flowers, white beaches, and turquoise water. A stop at the magical Dogs Bay and Gurteen Bay beaches ⛱️ back to back to each other. You really could be in the Caribbean!!! Molly had a good old dig, still living her best life. She will still not go in the water, despite Paul coaxing her by throwing her ball in the sea. She was having none of it, so Paul had to retrieve it instead 😆, whilst Molly watched on!
    Next, a courtesy stop at Clifden Town for a guiness in the sun before we pitch up for the night. I managed a quick detour into the local bookshop to buy a book recommended by a young American sat reading 📚 in one of the pubs in Galway
    She reminded me of my younger self, I always had my reading book in my bag (way before the distractions of mobile phones and social media) .
    We arrived at the Eco Campsite, and you could tell by Paul's face that he was not impressed. We had been considering staying for two nights, and I instantly knew that was off the cards! 🤫 He says, "It's very basic, i've only booked this site for you, I bet it's full of hippies. " 🤨 'How bloody judgemental' I thought.
    Well, we ended up staying for 3 nights, and we would have stayed longer had there been any availability. I swear Paul had a tear in his eye as he was saying bye 👋 to Chris (the owner) when we left this morning 🤣. The moral of this story is to NOT JUDGE A BOOK BY ITS COVER!!    Read more

  • Jane AllenTravelerThe Wild Atlantic Way

    TESTicle TESTicle 1,2,3 !!!

    May 30, 2024 in Ireland ⋅ 🌬 12 °C

    Well, the end of our WAW has come to a premature halt ☹️ (we are going to resume next year 🙃). We always knew we wouldn't be able to cover the 1600 miles in 3 weeks, but Paul had hoped we would get up to Achill Island, just off County Mayo. We have been lucky thus far with booking sites on the day, which has given us so much flexibility to extend or bypass places as we have wanted. Anyhow, we (Paul actually, but I will take one for the team😉) had not considered it is Bank Holiday weekend (the week after UK, Spring Bank) for the Republic of Ireland, the sun is also shining ☀️ and every where (and I mean EVERYWHERE) is booked up, for the long weekend 🥴 and you can only book for the full weekend not a day or two. We spent this morning engrossed in the map (or at least I did), Paul is more focused on the number of reviews each site has, irrelevant of availability or not 🤔) The only logical option we had was to get across the border to Northern Island as it wasn't a BH. The soonest we could get onto a site in NI was Saturday, 1st June. After collaring Chris (the owner of the hippie site 😛), he could accommodate us for one more night (Thursday) with electricity and would try and find us somewhere on the site but not an official pitch for Friday. It sounded like a plan 👌. Loaded with a bag of washing (Paul was scared the shower basin would fall through with the weight of dirty clothes!) he handed it to Chris's daughter to wash for us 😎)
    After our morning of admin, we bravely decided to go for a swim 🏊‍♀️ 😲. I am not going to lie it is so cold. It starts to get easier when your body is so numb and you can't feel it anymore. It doesn't half feel good after when you get out. I am not going to go into the full detail of today's experience for Paul in the sea. But all he kept shouting was "testicle, testicle 123". I think he might have lost them for a time (sorry guys and gals 😶‍🌫️). After the swim, Paul cycled off to the nearest pub/shop in Claddaghuff 3km away for refreshments and rice. It was the first time the bikes had come off since we started our journey. Anyway, he had not been gone 10 minutes, and he was back, pushing his bike. The chain had snapped, his fault, he said. He forgot how to use the gears ⚙️ 🤐. So he swapped bikes and grabbed mine. I'm not sure how he is going to ride it. It's got a woman's seat for comfort (if ever there was a comfortable bike seat), if you know what I mean 😉. I can only think whatever was lost in the cold sea had not yet been found 🤣🤣. I can only assume he had found the shop and the pub as I got a picture sent through on WhatsApp of his pint. Apparently, he was waiting for me to reply to what wine I wanted from the shop 🤨. When he finally returned, it was time for a chilled evening. Chicken curry for Paul and watching the sunset 🌇 (heaven)    Read more

  • Jane AllenTravelerThe Wild Atlantic Way

    Moving Day

    May 31, 2024 in Ireland ⋅ ☀️ 12 °C

    Day 3 at the beautiful Eco Campsite. The sun is shining, and it's moving day for us. Chris had told us to be packed up and ready to move for 10.30, when he would come to collect us and show us our pitch (unofficial, squeezing us in somewhere) for our final day/night.
    Off we set in the moho following Chris on foot. Driving past the most amazing spot overlooking the beach (one of the best pitches on the site, in our opinion). Chris then shouts, "Go down there, turn round, and drive into here." It's only the bloody spot!!! 🙌 and it's got electric. Paul is as happy as a pig in shit....and tells Chris as much. "We look after our friends," said Chris 🧡
    Whilst the sun was out, Paul wanted to sample a couple of pints of guiness (shock 🙄), so off we trot to Claddaghuff (approximately 30 minutes walk, according to Paul) a 45 minute walk away. A couple of pints later, and Lasagne, salad, and chips for Paul. We headed back for the Seaweed Bath we had booked.
    What a brilliant experience you start in the sea 🥶 and then into the whiskey barrel hot tub. Then, back into the sea 🌊 and back in the tub. Finished off with rubbing the Seaweed oil all over your skin. Paul didn't wait for it to soak in before putting his top on. You can see from his face that he is not impressed "it's uncomfy". 'No shit sherlock, you are supposed to wait until it soaks into your skin!'😅.
    We finished the evening off with a fire 🔥, whilst watching the sunset over the water 🧡💛.    Read more

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