Bhutan Lingzhi Gewog

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  • Day 13

    Tiger's Nest Conquered

    May 4 in Bhutan ⋅ ⛅ 59 °F

    We didn't post yesterday because we were driving most of the time, breaking up the trip with visits to an incense factory, a weaving factory, a tapestry store, and a paper factory. Interesting, but might not register as the highlights of this trip.

    We finally got back to Paro. The hotel here is extremely nice so we rested up for our hike to Tiger's Nest, which happened today.

    The trek up and back was about 10 miles and much of it very steep making it very strenuous at times. There are no roads up the sides of these cliffs so you'd better be prepared for a lot of huffing and puffing. But what a dreamlike experience! The pictures just can't do it justice, and we marveled continuously at some of the most beautiful scenery anywhere in the world.

    Tiger's Nest was built in 1692 to honor holy man Guru Rimpoche and celebrate one of his two wives (he turned her into a tiger). Contrary to so many descriptions, it is not a monastery but a temple. Absolutely fantastic and so far the highlight of the trip! Again, the pictures can only capture a fraction of the experience; no photos in the temple were allowed as before.

    On another note, we learned that the King of Bhutan is planning to build a city the size of Singapore in southern Bhutan near the Indian border. What a horrible idea, and the country will never be the same afterwards, so get over here before the country loses its otherworldly magic.
    We drag our weary limbs to Darjeeling tomorrow but the long hikes are mercifully over.
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  • Day 11

    Hikes,Momos,Forts, and Legends

    May 2 in Bhutan ⋅ ☁️ 73 °F

    Another hike started our hearts racing again today, beginning at the trailhead past a chain suspension bridge and then proceeding through rice, wheat,and chili pepper terraces. A steep climb rewarded our efforts with the Khamsuhm Yuelley Namgyal temple complex with panoramic views of the mountains, river,and valley.

    We later had a lovely picnic lunch featuring momos (Himalayan dumplings which can be perked up with chili paste) next to the river where we witnessed a solemn procession of monks headed to scatter the ashes of a deceased local.

    Our next stop was the fantastic Punakho Fortress complex built in 1620 at a time when this was Bhutan's capital. It's a combination government building and temple compound and was truly amazing, framed by rows of blooming jacaranda. Crossing the bridge to the fortress, we were lucky to see a school of the rare Golden Mansour fish (up to 6 ft) in the waters below us. They now allow international sport fishermen to catch and then release, but one has to wonder why anyone would want to do this.

    Our last stop was the world's longest suspension bridge (foot traffic only). Since I'm leary of crossing a rocking chain contraption with 50 people, I stayed behind but Kevin took some great pictures.

    Bhutanese have lots of folk tales and our guide has regaled us with, perhaps, too many, but we did drive by a 13th century house which is known as the Romeo and Juliet house and here's the story if anyone's still interested. It seems a young couple from rival families fell in love and this Juliet got pregnant. Romeo didn't know as he was on business in another region. Her family was ashamed and kicked her out of the house, so she wandered through the forest sending telepathic messages ("Romeo, get your butt back here pronto") but he didn't get the messages due to slow telepathic connections in those days. Meanwhile Juliet died of starvation and Romeo arrived just in time for her funeral pyre, at which point he jumped into the flames to be with her forever. Juliet's family was cursed to have one deformed child in each subsequent generation. And locals say that is still the case.

    Enough for today, but thanks to those who've stuck to the end.
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  • Day 10

    Buddhas, a Madman & a Nunnery

    May 1 in Bhutan ⋅ ⛅ 68 °F

    We left Thimphu this morning and first visited the 177 foot seated Buddha temple. The interior contains an astonishing 120,000 Buddha statues lining the walls with more added all the time.

    We next ascended to the stunning Dochula pass at 10k feet with sweeping views. Clouds obscured the Tibetan Himalayas to the north, but occasional glimpses of snowy peaks gave hope that we'll see them when we go back over this pass Saturday. There are 108 beautiful shrines to honor the deceased at the summit, and the whole atmosphere was spectacularly surreal.

    We then descended to the village of Teoprongchu, and the landscape changed dramatically. It's much warmer down in this valley with blooming jacaranda and bananas everywhere. But the highlight is the 15th-century Temple of Fertility. Let me condense this wild and convoluted tale as best I can. It seems a Tibetan superhero came to this region around 1480 along with his overheated libido. That he liked the ladies is an understatement as he managed to have 5000 children, reportedly. He was given the name of the Divine Madman. When he died, he became a deity of Fertility. A Temple of Fertility was erected here,if you'll forgive the pun, after his death and ever since, couples unable to conceive have come to practice rituals which will help them have a baby. The woman, alone, must wear a cloth sling at her back used to carry children, but instead of a child, she carries an enormous wooden phallus and circumambulates the Temple a prescribed number of times. The Temple monk then lets her know if it will be a boy or a girl, and they choose a name. I asked about the success rate and they showed us books with photos of happy couples and bouncing babies as proof. The whole town is penis crazy and you can buy everything from penis tea towels to key chains to model airplanes with a penis nose.

    Ironically enough, our next stop was at a Buddhist nunnery notable for its incomparable 360 degree view. The interiors of these shrines are indescribable but unfortunately one cannot take photos.

    Finally we descended further to the lovely town of Punakha which is much warmer than Thimphu. We are in a charming hotel along the banks of the river and will be here two nights with more hiking tomorrow.---gearing up for the more challenging Tiger's Nest hike on Sunday!

    In the meantime, "om mane padme hom" as we say in Bhutan.
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  • Day 9

    A long climb up the mountain

    April 30 in Bhutan ⋅ ☁️ 57 °F

    Today's adventure began with a 90-minute drive into spectacular pine and rhododendron-clad mountains to the trail head for our climb to Chagri Dorjeden Monastery, also called Cheri Monastery. No roads up, so the only way to get there is to hike. We started at 8000 feet and went up to about 9000 feet which doesn't sound so bad, but it was uphill all the way. But what a sight! Built in 1620, it is still a practicing monastery similar to ones in Lhasa , but this one is in such immaculate condition with vibrant murals and gilded woodwork, unlike the somewhat dusty, faded, and poorly maintained ones we saw in Tibet. Unfortunately, we couldn't take interior pictures, but I hope the exterior photos convey some sense of the beauty and grandeur of this magnificent spot.

    The afternoon found us back in Thimphu where we visited the extraordinary textile museum, and a "living village" which featured archery, a national sport, and the Fertility Garden (more on that later), as well as traditional dancing accompanied by salted butter tea refreshments (nasty stuff). We later visited a large stupa (aka a chorten) dedicated to a former king, and finished the day at an extensive produce market which had a lovely selection of dried yak cheese cubes (rolled in sugar) which are truly nauseating, at least to my delicate palate.

    Tired and sore, we're heading off to bed now.
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  • Day 8

    Bhutan !!

    April 29 in Bhutan ⋅ ☁️ 50 °F

    We arrived in Bhutan early this morning and immediately became aware that we were in a special universe, unlike any other place. The mountains are staggeringly gorgeous, and the architecture is uniquely beautiful---the best of Tibet and Switzerland mixed together. Even the humblest buildings feature intricate wood carving and beautiful painted decorations. All men wear long smocks (ghos), and women wear kiras, elaborately embroidered dresses.

    We drove from the beautiful Paro airport to the capital Thimphu and visited a precarious 15th century bridge, high over a swirling river, leading to a grand temple. Nearby was a large cave where saintly hermits occupy the space, one at a time, for 3 years, 3 months, and 3 days as a purification ritual.

    The streets of the main road are adorned with prayer flags and pictures of Bhutan' s king along with photos of the Thai king and queen who just left today after a state visit.

    We're resting this afternoon before starting our tours tomorrow. It's refreshing, for a change, to be in a country that honors tranquility, intelligence, and beauty.

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  • Day 3

    Tigernest Tempel

    April 21 in Bhutan ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    Der Tigernest Tempel ist ein Wahrzeichen Bhutans und liegt auf über 3000 Meter. Es war ein steiler, anspruchsvoller Aufstieg und die Anlage impossant. Er wurde im 6 Jhd. gebaut und 2x abgebrannt und wieder aufgebaut. Wie die das Material dort hoch geschleppt haben ist mir ein Rätsel.
    Man kann ein Stück mit dem Pferd hochgehen.
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  • Day 1–9

    Bhutan

    April 19 in Bhutan ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    Gestern kurzer Flug nach Bangkok und Übernachtung. Um 03.00 Uhr Fahrt zum Flughafen und Abflug nach Paro/Bhutan. Ein grosser Wunsch geht in Erfüllung. Paro hat einer der schönsten Flughafen, den ich je gesehen habe und einer der schlimmsten oder gefährlichsten Ab- und Anflugpisten der ganzen Welt, so wurde es uns gesagt. Bhutan ist ein Königreich und hat den jüngsten König der Welt. Er soll modern sein und macht viel Gutes für das Land. Und wie wohl viele wissen ist Bhutan nur von glücklichen Menschen bewohnt.Read more

  • Day 12

    Tiger‘s Nest

    October 31, 2024 in Bhutan ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    Hike zum weltberühmten „Tiger‘s Nest“ - leider ohne Gerhard, der mit Knieproblemen im Hotel geblieben ist.
    Los ging’s mit Guide und Fahrer um 6.30Uhr.
    Nach 45Minuten Fahrt war ich dann mit VIELEN Touristen am Ausgangspunkt der 4Stündigen Wanderung, über 1000 Höhenmeter, zum Tempel am Steilhang.
    Der Aufstieg war für mich „Bergziege 🙈“ eher beschwerlich!!! Aber ich habe mich ganz tapfer geschlagen und auch viele Touris hinter mir gelassen.
    Oben angekommen wurde ich mit einem Rundgang durch ein beeindruckendes Bauwerk, mit neun Tempelräumen belohnt.
    Das Handy/Foto musste leider wieder draußen bleiben.
    Auch der Rückweg hatte es dann in sich!
    Es führen über 700 Stufen - mit up and down - die letzten 100Höhenmeter zum Tiger‘s Nest.
    Also ging’s auch am Rückweg nochmal ganz schön zur Sache und das auf über 3000 Meter über dem Meer 😝.
    Zurück im Hotel gab’s dann für alle Finisher eine Fussmassage.
    Ich bin fertig für heute !!!!!!
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  • Day 6

    Aber jetzt nach Bhutan!

    October 25, 2024 in Bhutan ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    Um 4:00 Uhr ging es los. Taxi zum Flughafen in Jaipur, Gepäck abgeben und warten.

    Der Flug nach Delhi war kurz – so kurz, dass wir ihn einfach verschlafen haben. Kaum gelandet, dann die erste Schrecksekunde: Unser Gepäck war nicht da. Nach etwa 15 Minuten bangen Wartens kamen unsere beiden Taschen dann doch endlich an. Zur Beruhigung gab’s direkt einen Kaffee bei Starbucks.

    Anschließend ging’s weiter zur Abflughalle und erneut hieß es: warten. Nach der Sicherheitskontrolle nochmal warten, bis es fast pünktlich losging. Im Flugzeug saß direkt vor uns ein Minister aus Indien und Bhutan – anscheinend ein hoher Gast!

    Die Aussicht während des Flugs war spektakulär! Es sah aus, als würden wir mit dem Flügel den Mount Everest berühren. Ein Erlebnis, das uns auf die spannende Landung vorbereitete.

    Der Flughafen Paro in Bhutan zählt zu den aufregendsten und zugleich herausforderndsten Flughäfen weltweit. Er liegt in einem engen Tal, umgeben von hohen Bergen, und befindet sich auf etwa 2.200 Metern über dem Meeresspiegel. Nur besonders erfahrene Piloten dürfen hier landen, da der Anflug durch die steilen Berge sehr anspruchsvoll ist.

    Die Landebahn ist vergleichsweise kurz, und die Flugzeuge fliegen niedrig über kleine Dörfer und steile Hänge hinweg – ein atemberaubender Anblick für alle Passagiere. Das Terminal selbst ist im traditionellen bhutanischen Stil gestaltet, mit wunderschönen Holzschnitzereien und buddhistischen Symbolen, was dem Ganzen eine besondere Atmosphäre verleiht.

    Hier gibt es kleine Läden und Restaurants, die regionale Speisen und Souvenirs anbieten. Schon die Landung in Paro ist ein unvergesslicher Start ins „Land des Donnerdrachens“ und bleibt auf jeden Fall in Erinnerung.
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  • Day 68

    Bauernhaus Chillout

    January 5, 2024 in Bhutan ⋅ ☁️ 2 °C

    Fix und fertig nach dem Tigernest sind wir noch kurz ins Hotel and dann gleich weiter in ein typisches altes Bauernhaus gefahren. Da gabs ein traditionelles Heisse-Steine Bad für mich 😅. Eine Holzwanne mit Wasser aus dem "Fluss" darin schwimmend japanische Sweetflag (sumpfpflanze) und Wermut bzw. Beifuss. Ein Teil der Wanne ragt dann in einen zweiten Raum, da werden dann in Glut heißgemachte Flussteine ins Wasser gelegt und das Wasser so eben erhitzt und mit Mineralien versetzt. Und darin köchelt man dann so vor sich hin. Man kann dann nach belieben Steine nachlegen lassen. Ich fand das voll cool auch wenn man danach ausschaut wie ne 🥔. Anschließend haben wir uns noch das Bauernhaus angeschaut und dann gabs endlich lecker Essen ...Alles aus eigenem Garten, auch der Reis. War sehr lecker und recht deftig weil ziemlich butterlastig. Zurück ins Hotel, Absacker in der Hotelbar und geschlafen wie ein Baby.Read more

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