England Woolacombe

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  • Day 5

    In search of King Arthur 👑

    May 1 in England ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    First stop on our journey from Clovelly was Bude! We took a brief ‘spin’ on 2 of the towns’ beaches, one of which had a fantastic rock pool which was very inviting, especially on the unseasonably warm weather that we are experiencing!

    Boscastle is a small, picturesque village on the north coast of Cornwall, UK, known for its dramatic coastal scenery, historic harbor, and mystical folklore.

    Boscastle was severely affected by a flash flood on August 16, 2004. Around 2 billion liters of water swept through the village in just a few hours, damaging buildings and infrastructure. Remarkably, no lives were lost. The flood led to major environmental and engineering efforts to protect the village in future.

    Oh! And we had our first true Cornish Pasty which, to be honest, didn’t really rock my world! I’m told they are different in different areas in Cornwall so I will try another one in a couple of days!

    Perched dramatically on the craggy cliffs of Cornwall, Tintagel Castle is less a “castle” in the medieval sense and more a collection of ruins with ambition—and an absolutely killer sea view. Today, it’s best known as the alleged birthplace of King Arthur, that chivalrous fellow with the sword, the round table, and a penchant for dramatic exits.

    Today, Tintagel is all windswept ruins, stone steps, and dramatic selfie spots. English Heritage has added a stunning footbridge to reunite the castle’s separated halves. Mark and I decided to forego the effort of crossing the bridge to the island, instead, choosing to wander around the outside: saving lots of steps and £22 (for dinner!)

    In summary: Tintagel Castle is where myth meets mist, history shakes hands with fantasy, and tourists try not to trip on medieval stonework while imagining Arthur being born in a candlelit drama of sorcery and scandal.
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  • Day 4

    Lovely Clovelly

    April 30 in England ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    Clovelly is a postcard-perfect village clinging to the North Devon coastline, where time seems to have stood still. Its steep cobbled street tumbles dramatically down a 400-foot cliff to a tiny 14th-century harbour, flanked by traditional whitewashed cottages with brightly painted doors and tumbling flower baskets. With no cars allowed on the main street, deliveries and luggage are still carried on wooden sledges, just as they were centuries ago. Donkeys, once used to haul goods up and down the hill, are now more of a symbol of Clovelly’s charm, occasionally seen giving rides to children in summer. The rhythm of life here is slow and peaceful—waves lapping against the harbour walls, seagulls circling above, and the scent of salt and honeysuckle in the air.

    Charles Kingsley, who spent part of his childhood in Clovelly and later immortalised it in his novel Westward Ho!, perfectly captured its haunting beauty and enduring character when he wrote: “My spirit walked once more, as often of old, through every dear alley and flowery nook of that quaint mountain village, climbing from the pebbly beach to the topmost garden-crowned crag.” His words remain true today. Though time has passed, Clovelly retains its soul—unchanged, unhurried, and utterly unforgettable.
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  • Day 4

    Clovelly by Night

    April 30 in England ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

    The cobbled street lies hushed and steep,
    Where moonlight spills and shadows sleep.
    A lantern flickers on a wall,
    The sea below sighs soft and small.

    No engines hum, no voices rise,
    Just stars reflected in dark skies.
    The harbour dreams in silver light—
    So still, so steeped in ancient night.
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  • Day 43

    Farewell Croatia

    April 11, 2024 in England ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    All too soon our adventures come to a close. Today we fly to UK for a final week with family and friends.
    We have had the most wonderful experience and certainly hope to travel here again. We recommend highly it.
    We spent the last few days revisiting Dubrovnik (the shiny flagstones worn so smooth by millions of footsteps) and Cavtat, kayaking and swimming in the Mlini waters. Bliss.
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  • Day 8

    Wetterkapriolen

    September 12, 2023 in England ⋅ 🌬 17 °C

    Die Küstenwanderung geht weiter: bei leichtem Nieselregen und tiefhängenden Wolken starteten wir in Lynton. Vorbei am Schrägaufzug und mit einem letzen Blick auf das tief im Tal liegende Lynmouth.
    Bereits nach wenigen Metern verschlug es uns die Sprache. Rechts ging es einige Meter nach unten und links erhoben sich bizarre Felsformationen vor uns. Dann durchbrach die Sonne immer wieder die Wolkenlücken und liess die Felsen in den unterschiedlichen Farben leuchten. Später wurde uns das Runter (1050 m) und das Hoch (930 m) mit immer weiteren Highlights versüßt. Nach fasst 22 km erreichten wir Combe Martin und gönnten uns eine Busfahrt nach Ifracombe unser heutiges Etappenziel. Den Abend ließen wir in einer Tapa's Bar mit leckeren spanischen Speisen ausklingen. Bis morgen...
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  • Day 6

    Mortehoe und Morte Point

    August 4, 2023 in England ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    Nach Lynton wollten wir eigentlich nach Ilfracombe, haben uns dann aber für Mortehoe entschieden, um uns den Mortepoint anzuschauen - eine gute Entscheidung. Der zunächst angesteuerte CP wollte über £ 80,00 für eine Übernachtung - geht gar nicht. Letztlich landeten wir auf der North Morte Farm (£ 30), die riesige Freiflächen zum Freistehen anbot (vgl. Foto). Mortehoe ist ein kleiner Ort, der in der Nähe des riesigen Strandes von Woolacombe liegt. Nach einer Ruhezeit, die wir wegen des sehr kalten Windes im Camper verbrachten, zogen wir gegen 17.30 vom CP los zur Felsformation und über den Ort zurück. Die Fotos sagen eigentlich Alles. Wunderschön!Read more

  • Day 3

    Beach day!

    May 6 in England ⋅ ☀️ 12 °C

    We decided to make the trip to Saunton Sands to show Nora her first sandy beach. She went bananas. Didn't stop the whole time. We grabbed 2 coffees and a bacon bap and walked about 3km down the coastline and then off into the sand dunes. We found a little oasis that Nora did some swimming in (first time I've seen her do it) and then made our way back down the coast. Nora met about 15 other dogs ranging from sausage to greyhound to collies and she also saw some washed up jellyfish!! She was passed out on the way home... well until she got up and started acting really strange. We thought she was gonna be sick after all the sand and salt water but after we quickly pulled over to let her out she was absolutely fine.... strange.... however when we went to load her back into the car she started resisting.... strange..... turns out, she'd wet the bed as it was soaked in urine! Luckily it was quite watered down so we just ended up chucking it in the boot and rinsing it off when we got back. We picked up a fish and chips on route and ate our final dinner out in the garden in the last of the sun. 2 more glasses of prosecco in the hot tub and half a watermelon later and we are ready for our final nights sleep. 🥰🥰Read more

  • Day 5–6

    Braunton

    April 11 in England ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

    Last night the stars were out, and with the brilliant view from North Morte, I grabbed a reasonable photo of them. You can see Orion's Belt!

    Anyway, onto today. Travel is in my mind always about expectations: even the best place can be ruined by an expectation of it being better, and the worst can be made up for by not hoping for much. Well, today the expectation was for an easy day, which was a mistake. I'm lying here with my feet finally beginning to blister and with a blister on my little finger too (!) having nearly got sunstroke - in April. It turns out walking on sand is tough, and the heat was fierce today.

    Ah, but let's talk about the fun bits.

    SEALS! The morning started with a bunch of seals basking on rocks and diving in the sea - and those on the rocks were huge. See photo 2 - there are three on the rocks if you look carefully.

    The route today took me along the long surfing beaches at Woolacombe and Croyde, the first sight of surfers in the waves. But the dunes were quite relentless, and the stretches on the beach itself very odd to be with full hiking gear amid those in swimwear. The heat was fierce: even the sheep (and cute baby lambs) were hiding in the shade of stone walls.

    At the amazingly named Baggy Point, I passed a group of climbers nestled at the top of the sheer rock face, as well as a lovely woman from the National Trust: she said she was conducting a survey, and then asked me just one question: was the bench I was sitting on comfy? As basic wooden benches at viewpoints go, it fitted the standard so I was pleased to agree. We then chatted about walking while imagined what fun that would be as a job, wandering around landmarks asking for thumbs up on street furniture.

    Beyond Croyde came various fancy but often empty holiday properties, some with a ridiculously good view. Its strange to imagine how people could create such glamour and then not use it.

    The final hills above Saunton gave a view of what's to come: the flat lands of the estuary around Barnstaple and Bideford, before the tricky rugged coastline emerges again in a few days time after the gloriously named Westward Ho!

    Oh, and rain is forecast for tomorrow. Careful what you wish for!
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  • Day 4–5

    North Morte

    April 10 in England ⋅ ☀️ 12 °C

    A beautiful day hiking in the sun!

    It's always a bit ominous when your watch tells you as you wake up that your "training readiness" is 1/100. But at the same time the birdsong at dawn this morning was utterly beautiful, so I've decided to see the positive in everything instead.

    A group of four of us have spent the past few days on the trail near enough together: starting and ending at the same campsites and sharing experiences along the way. Miriam from Stuttgart had to head back to her interrail adventure, but we managed to grab a quick photo together in the cold of the early morning.

    After the pay-it-forward good vibes of the past couple of days, I got to hopefully help someone else out too: they'd dropped some hiking clothes on the route up to Great Hangman yesterday, presumably while drying hanging off a bag. So I left them by the South West Coast Path exit at Coombe Martin this morning. Hopefully they got reunited.

    I also had the pleasure of my first (Devonish) Pasty for lunch in Ilfracombe, and also came across the amazing Verity statue by Damien Hurst, dominating the harbour. An absolutely beautiful piece of art.

    The day ended with walking over the clifftops at the end of this bit of coastal before heading south to Woolacombe and Bideford. It's infamous for smuggling and shipwrecks and the names go with the territory: Brandy Cove, Damage Cliffs, and near where I'm stopped for the night, Morte Stone.

    To cap it all off, I'm camped on a large but stunning campsite perched over the sea, with a perfect view of the setting sun, which I'm watching from my tent while sipping hot chocolate. It's about to get cold - time to retire to my cosy sleeping bag. Night all!
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  • Day 167

    The Manor of Cloverly

    March 15 in England ⋅ ☁️ 7 °C

    Garden and Church

    The Manor of Clovelly is a historic manor in North Devon, England. Within the manor are situated the manor house known as Clovelly Court, the parish church of All Saints, lords of the manor, of the families of Cary, Hamlyn, Fane, Manners and Asquith

    Summer garden production video
    https://vimeo.com/290514446

    Clovelly Court Gardens are a classic example of a Victorian walled kitchen garden. Lovingly restored, a stand out feature is their magnificent Messenger design glasshouses with original manual levers still in working order. The walled garden was built to give protection from the sometimes salt-laden coastal winds and provide produce for the owners of the Manor House and its staff.

    In the run of restored glasshouses, apricots, peaches, nectarines, melons, vines (including 100 year old muscat grape), citrus fruit and figs ripen in the warmth along with cucumbers, peppers, chillies, aubergines, tomatoes – and a tropical Abutilon.
    Tender and exotic plants thrive in this sunny corner of North Devon. It benefits from its enviable sheltered position in the Bristol Channel and the effects of the warm Gulf Stream flowing past Clovelly. Protected from the winds and bounded
    by an avenue of lofty lime trees, they are usually a month ahead of the season.
    Outside espalier, fan and cordon fruit trees line the walls enclosing the garden. There are apples, pears,
    quinces, medlars, soft fruit, and two mulberry trees.
    They make the best use of the C18th century walls, which were all renovated between 1997 and 2000
    after the collapse of one section. Juice from home-grown apples is available for purchase.
    All the fruit and vegtables grown in our gardens is organic and we supply a wide range of fresh seasonal produce to the Red Lion as well as to local pubs & restaurants.
    Peaches and apricots flower in February/March so have to be pollinated by hand since there are
    few bees around at that time. If you notice sachets hanging from the plants these contain organic
    biological controls, predatory bugs, which feed on a single range of damaging pests.
    Vegetable and fruit production take precedence
    over ornamental plants, but there are some remaining treasures such as the Judas tree, said to be the oldest Cercis Siliquastrum in North Devon.
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