Kügeleskopf

We woke up high above the world—literally. After a cozy night at the Schliffkopf Hotel, it became very clear that we were at 1025 meters above sea level. The wind was howling, the air crisp, and yes, it was freezing. But there’s something undeniably refreshing about starting your day that high up, surrounded by mountains and forest.

First stop: the Allerheiligen Klosterruine and Waterfall Trail. The ruins of the abbey looked like something straight out of Tolkien or the Brothers Grimm. Majestic stone walls, arched windows, and ivy-covered corners gave it that slightly eerie, magical feel—like you’ve stepped into a forgotten world.

From the ruins, we followed the trail to Allerheiligen Waterfalls—the highest in the northern Black Forest. The water crashes dramatically down through narrow gorges, and even with the chill in the air, it was absolutely worth the hike.

But let me tell you—the rest of that trail? It was not messing around. Steep climbs, knee-busting descents… the Black Forest really showed us what it’s made of. At the top, though, we reached the Engelskanzel (Angel’s Pulpit)—and the view truly earned the name!

And of course, at the base of the ruins, with that epic backdrop, I pulled out my AeroPress and brewed a fresh cup of coffee. Let me tell you, that combo of hot coffee and a panoramic ruin? Luxury in its truest form.

Next, we dropped down from the highlands and drove to Gengenbach—a town so charming it should come with a warning label. Half-timbered houses, cobbled streets, a postcard-perfect market square, and town gates that make you feel like you’ve walked into a storybook. We wandered, grabbed a quick lunch and ice cream, and just soaked it all in.

Then came a visit to one of the real highlights of the day: the Schwarzwälder Freilichtmuseum Vogtsbauernhof. One word: Amazing. Think: traditional Black Forest farmhouses from every region, lovingly reconstructed, complete with livestock, gardens, and costumed staff. It’s one part open-air museum, one part time machine. Wandering from building to building, you really get a sense of how people lived, worked, and thrived here over the centuries.

From there, we pointed the car toward Freiburg, our stop for the next few nights. Checked into the Courtyard by Marriott, freshened up, and then headed out for a dinner that hit the spot in every way.

Weber’s Weinstube delivered in full: local wines and an array of Badische Tapas—a delicious spread of small regional dishes that let us try a bit of everything.

Black Forest hikes, ancient ruins, dreamy towns, and hearty food… honestly, what more could you want from a day on the road?Read more