Holchenbach

Time to say goodbye to Baden-Baden—but not without a proper send-off. After checking out of the hotel, we swung by a local market and bakery to stock up on provisions for a picnic later in the day.

Then it was time to hit one of Germany’s most iconic scenic drives: the Schwarzwaldhochstraße. Winding roads, deep forest, panoramic views—it’s exactly what you’d imagine when picturing the Black Forest. Every turn had us oohing and aahing like kids on a rollercoaster.

Our destination? Ottenhöfen, where I’d seen a hiking trail on Instagram that immediately made it onto the must-do list: the Mühlenpfad. And wow—it did not disappoint.

The 13km trail led us through peaceful villages, thick forest, and along burbling streams. All the classic Black Forest vibes, with the added bonus of historic water mills—some still in working condition! Watching the old mechanisms spin and creak like they’ve done for centuries was oddly mesmerizing.

But the real surprise? Schnapps fountains.
Yes, that’s a thing.
Tucked along the trail, usually close to farms, you’ll find little huts or fridges filled with schnapps, beer, wine, and non-alcoholic drinks—resting under shady trees with a bench nearby. It’s all based on trust: take what you want, leave a few euros in the box, and enjoy. Gotta love that kind of local charm.

About halfway through the hike, we stopped for our picnic: fresh pretzels, Black Forest ham, and cheese—heavenly after hours of hiking and sweating under the sun.

Three hours later, tired and happy, we made it back to the car and set off again—climbing back up into the mountains to check into our next stop: Mountain and Wellness Hotel Schliffkopf. Let’s just say… very comfy, but the decor is giving peak 1980s alpine chic.

Dinner took us to Freudenstadt, where we feasted at Speckwirt—a proper dive into local cuisine: flammkuchen, kässpätzle, lentils, and sausages, all washed down with local beer.

And to top it all off? A sunset drive back through the mountains. Golden light streaming through the trees—it was Black Forest magic.Read more