Endé-Guinékanda

Got up about 06.00 (wed 1 nov) and had a quick coffee and bread before setting off to Ennde, some 12 kms distant at the foot of The Falaise. We lft most of our stuff at Ben's Bar and filled up our water sack Chez Mamadou, having been introduced to his family. Set off at a brisk pace along the sandy roads at about 07.15, Mamadou and me slightly ahead and the others 2 lagging. Discussed life, the Universe + everything with Mamadou, who seems V intelligent and cares deeply about his people and his country. The great problems are as much self-inflicted as anything. The corruption and the mis-placed ideals of many of the younger men + women (western influence) breaking down the traditional family way of life.

Jan however did not entirely approve of the Dogon way of life. The women appear to do all of the work. From the age of about 5 they are left in charge of smaller siblings, and quite often spend the day in the fields or pounding millett with a small one strapped to their backs.

The millett pounding is quite a feature, always carried out by the women - Once they get into a rhythm they appear to enjoy it, clapping their hands and banging the mortar on the side of the pestle, sometimes singing as well, often in groups, with up to 3 working the same mortar simultaneously. The women also have their 'cupboards' - stone houses like millett stores but smaller where they keep their things. Divided into compartments they keep anything from their Jewelry to various herbs and spices and their clothing too. The women also have hut areas where they go for four days while having their periods.

The men, especially the elders, have stone bench areas with mud & thatch roofs where they sit, play Woaley (Eds note - Mankala?) & discuss life.

The walk was flat at first through the millett fields much of which was being left for fodder, rendered useless by the locusts. There were 5 small hills with the final crest giving a great view of the Falaise escarpment about 1km distant. With the old Dogon village 1/2 way up very much in view and the new village hidden in the trees at the base. Each village is a collection of family enclosures and Ennde is a collection of 5 small villages.

On arrival at the village we were introduced to the chief, as in every village, who gets his cut, and we had an expensive warm soda. Thence to the campement towards the end of the village, which seemed comfy enough. After settling in we were given a quick tour of the old village, mostly disused, but some store houses are still considered the best, being under the overhang, providing protection.

After lunch we made our way up a small valley/gorge to some rocky pools, hardly a waterfall, more a dribble. Selected the best one and had a bath, though the water didn't look too clean, and little fish would nibble at your legs (Norman?). Also lots of local lads were trying to get vantage points to gape and gawp. Returned to the village about 16.30, by which time my achilles tendon had stiffened up considerably. Seb took over the mantle of chef and did V well, with some chicken and rice. A lorry load had been in Ennde earlier, and now 2 yanks who we had seen in Mopti & Djenne turned up with a watermelon, and became very popular by sharing it with us and all the locals. All washed down with some Millett beer.Read more