Portugal Ilha Morraceira de Seixas

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  • Day 8

    8.3 Eine große Herausforderung: Rubiães

    May 2 in Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    Immer und immer wieder geht's bergauf 🔼 und bergab 🔽..., mittlerweile über steinigen Untergrund.
    Achtung ‼️ Rutschgefahr ‼️

    Erstmal durchatmen, wenn man die Ebene nach dem Aufstieg 🧗‍♂️erreicht hat, dann die Hoffnung "DAS WAR'S JETZT"...,
    aber die Hoffnung stirbt bekanntlich zuletzt.
    Der gelbe Caminho Pfeil weist den Weg..., und zwar hinauf 🤦.

    Am höchsten Punkt der Etappe zeigt der Höhenmesser 470.
    Wir können bald nicht mehr 🥵.

    Wo's hochgeht, geht's auch wieder runter...

    Nach 19,2 km erreichen wir unsere Unterkunft, die "Casa das Lagas"🤗.
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  • Day 8

    Vila Praia de Âncora & Afife

    May 1 in Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    Within 10 minutes, the ferry crossed Rio Miño which is the border between Spain and Portugal. And within 10 minutes, I gained 60 minutes since there is 1 hour time difference between the 2 countries.

    I felt a bit sad to leave Spain and honestly, I had a hard time today to not speak Spanish to the people here 😂 I got so used to it during the last weeks 🥲
    On the other hand, I was curious to see Portugal for the very first time in my life!
    Definitely, Portugal made some impression on me on the very first kilometers! After passing the first city and its suburbs with luxurious houses, I followed a path along the sea which is - you will know already - the most beautiful facet of the pilgrimage for me!
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  • Day 6

    6.3 Fünfte Etappe: Vitorino dos Piäes

    April 30 in Portugal ⋅ 🌧 14 °C

    Trotz des Regens 🌧️ haben wir KEINE schlechte Laune.
    Allein beim Anblick des kräftigen Grüns der Gräser 💚 oder des sonnigen Gelbs 💛 der Blumen am Straßenrand bleibt es Einem warm ums Herz 💞.
    Dieses Gefühl ist schwer zu beschreiben, muss man wahrscheinlich selbst erleben um zu verstehen ❣️

    Mittlerweile bewegen 🥾 wir uns schon auf der "Rua da Fonte Quente", der Straße auf der sich unsere heutige Unterkunft 💤🛏️💤 befindet.
    Na, wer sagt's denn, das letzte Stück ging ja doch schneller als gedacht.
    Allerdings, muss ich sagen, für mich ist das hier keine Straße, sondern eher ein Feldweg.

    Wir kommen im Landhaus "Casa Rural O Estábulo de Valinhas" unter. Die Pension liegt in einem schönen, alten, renovierten Anwesen direkt am Jakobsweg.
    Beim Einchecken bestellen wir direkt ein Abendessen einschließlich hausgemachten Vinho Verdes (Weißwein). Es gibt Nudeln mit Gemüse und Nudeln mit Hähnchenfleisch, vorweg selbstgemachtes Knoblauchbrot 🥖.
    Sitzen an einer langen Tafel 🍽️ mit den anderen Pilgern 🥾 und genießen das Zusammensein.
    Es wird erzählt 🗣️ und zugehört 👂, solange bis sich letztendlich einer nach dem anderen wegen Bettschwere 🥱 verabschiedet und für den nächsten Tag einen
    "Bom Caminho" wünscht.

    Heute, bei sehr nassem Wetter 🌧️, eine Strecke von 20,9 km zurückgelegt.
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  • Day 27

    Last Day in Portugal

    April 29 in Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 79 °F

    Today I walked from Rubiaeus to Valenca, the last city in Portugal. It is separated from Tui, Spain by the Minho River. The walk was pretty uneventful after our hike yesterday. It was fairly flat with lots of towns with cafes to stop and some bits of forest walking to keep us reminded of the beauty of nature. Portugal truly is a gorgeous country. We met a few people we have met frequently along the way, and it is nice recognizing faces and learning bits about them. The only drawback to the day, in my opinion, was the heat and humidity. It is exhausting to walk in. I do miss the rain.
    When we arrived in Valenca, we found Kenny waiting by the fountain of the town center. He is the last to join our group and will finish the walk to Santiago with us. We are staying within the walls of the Fortress of Valenca. I always love these walled cities, but this one feels special. Maybe it is the 2000 year history of the fortress, or maybe the sentimentality of knowing tomorrow i will say goodbye to country that has welcomed me and supported me on this journey. Or maybe it is just my really comfy bed for the night! Whatever it is, I am very happy and grateful we get to spend the night here.
    Tomorrow we are only walking to the north end of Tui. I have walked carrying my backpack for over somewhere around 255 miles and almost a month now. I am tired. So tomorrow we will only go about 5 miles and just rest a bit. And Noelle and Richard seem to be getting colds so it will probably be good for us all. Oh, and we lose an hour when we cross into Spain.
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  • Day 9–10

    Rubiaes to Valenca

    April 29 in Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 26 °C

    Got on our way at 8 am and walked 11 miles from Rubiães to Valença and finally met Kenny!! Another hot day with cobblestones and beautiful trails. Noelle is now either with cold or allergies.

    Once in our apartment, Noelle, Kenny and I walked back into town to do laundry and a little shopping. After that and finding a restaurant for dinner, ended up walking another 5 miles, my longest mileage day yet.

    We are less than 2 miles from Tui, Spain. A lighter day tomorrow as with so many pilgrims here, hard to find a place to stay.

    Amazing trip so far!
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  • Day 26

    Seeing What Stuff I Am Made Of

    April 28 in Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 79 °F

    I left the cutest little town today, Ponte de Limas. It was such a pretty, peaceful walk out of town for our destination of Rubiaeus. Thank goodness I had no idea what lay ahead, or I may never have left! I left town along the river, crossed the ancient pedestrian bridge, and made my way into the fields, then the forest, then the mountain! The fields were fun with stone walkways running just inches from the stream, with water so clear you almost didn't know it was there. The forest starting going uphill almost immediately, but it would be a pretty good inclines and then it would level off for a while so you could catch your breath before the next one. This went on for miles and as the top of the mountain got closer, the steeper the climb got. Amazingly, there were many mountain bikers riding up along side us. It is crazy to see them driving up over the rocks and roots and loose dirt! Then came the unexpected, the unimaginable, indescribable. It was a half mile climb, so steep it was like trying to climb stairs, but with rocks and boulders and rivulets of water running down and trees and roots everywhere, and at points climbing through sections where the twisty turny path was only about 18 inches wide with walls of rock and earth up to your thighs. This was certainly not the "easy" Portuguese Camino i thought i was going to be doing. But, guess what. I made it, unscathed and so full of a sense of accomplishment, I was on cloud nine! I have never in my life challenged myself like this. It was a huge test of strength, stamina, and will power. And, it was a bigger test of challenging and facing my fears. There was a good chance I could get hurt, and if I did, I couldn't just call 911. There was no one coming for me. This is the best I can do to describe how great I felt about this, still do actually. But if you feel anything in my retelling of this adventure, multiply by 100 to imagine how good it felt for me.
    And then, I got to go all the way down the other side! You think this would be easy, but the downside was equally steep and the trail had all loose dirt and pebbles. And it was very long. It was tough on my knees and I felt like gravity was pulling my 14 lbs backpack and my body along with it, all the way to the bottom.
    Once we got to the bottom and back into civilization, we discovered the power outage in Portugal and Spain. While on the mountain we were too busy to realize we had no service. But once down, when we all were trying to get cold drinks and food, we discovered the problem. There were no restaurants or cafes open, but we were able to find a few provisions in a tiny market and we're able to make pasta with red sauce, zucchini and olives. Lucky for us our albergue had a gas stove. But not going out to a dinner made and served to us by restaurant staff somehow seemed to be the perfect end to this wonderously hard day. We were once again proving we were capable and creative and able to overcome hardship.
    I really am as strong as I think I am!
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  • Day 8–9

    Back on the grid!

    April 28 in Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 25 °C

    Noelle and I hiked 13 miles from Ponte de Lima to Rubiaes, Portugal over cobblestones, rocks, streams and steep mountain! Went through rural towns and then the BIG mountain. It was unexpected and seemed never ending. Every opportunity for water fall or fresh water we welcomed and was necessary. We thanked Mother Nature plenty.

    We didn’t realize power was out most of the day until we got to our Albergue, 4 twin beds in one room with private bathroom. Cells are charging again now. Kenny arrived safely and we meet him tomorrow and I can hardly wait 🥰
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  • Day 26

    Day 23 - No power

    April 28 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 63 °F

    “And God said, 'Let there be light' and there was light, but the Electricity Board said He would have to wait until Thursday to be connected.”—-Spike Milligan

    Since Portugal, Spain, and who knows who else is without power, I thought I’d start off with the humorous quote above. But seriously I come out of a very long walk in the woods and stop at a restaurant to be told no food but they do have warm beer or soft drinks. What happened?

    Today I walked from Sao Roque to Tui. So I am officially in Spain! Only ~116k / 72m to go. Lots of pilgrims were on the road today. And it was hot! That is why I enjoyed the wooded portions of today’s walk.

    Sitting in dark hotel room and I did treat myself to the Paradore. A little luxury before I begin the last part of my journey which has some steep hills (ugh)

    So adieu, going to get an early start tomorrow
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  • Day 7–8

    Central route now in Ponte de Lima

    April 27 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    First night in albergue and got to use my silk bed liner, blanket and microfiber towel finally and all worked great! We rented a Bolt vehicle driver to take us about 40 miles inland to catch the Camino Central Route and he dropped us off in town of Vitorino where we had a light breakfast before we began walking.

    Terrain very different here from ocean breeze and boardwalks to cobblestones, hills, rural countryside and sunshine and heat. Nice to know I can fit my extra layers in the backpack!!

    Saw lots of sheep, chickens, roosters, few horses, flowers, vineyards, vegetable gardens and farms along with many pilgrims and bicyclists in route.

    We had a lighter walking day of about 8 miles and in early as we have an 11 mile day planned North to Rubiaes in the morning getting us closer to where we will meet Kenny on Tuesday and can’t wait to see him again ❤️
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  • Day 25

    Its been a while

    April 27 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 66 °F

    I have been sick but struggling to continue my walk. But, that hasn't left me with the energy to write my posts. I have been crashing each night. Though I have much more recuperating to go, I do feel better. A short day today helped also. We switched from the coastal to the central route, and took a car to span them. It would have been about a 30 mile walk and we don't have time for that. But we did walk about 8 miles today after we got to the Central.
    We left Porto on Thursday morning. Jayme headed on the Central path and the rest of us took the coastal. The first three days along the coast were a mixture of things. We walked miles and miles of boardwalk, through small towns and on a couple trails. The terrain was pretty flat, but it seemed we were either being battered by the wind and sea soray or burnt to a crisp by the unrelenting sun. But the coast is beautiful and wild and I am so happy we did it. It truly reminded me of the Maine coast. Along the way we stayed a night in Perafita in an old woman's house with rooms that had decks facing the ocean and listened to the waves crash all night. Next we stayed in a 2 bedroom apartment right in the middle of old town Vila do Conde, a very nice place. And last night we stayed in private rooms at the Albergue Santiago de Coste in Apulia. We stayed in the private rooms because it only cost 5 euro more than the dorm bunks with 14 other people. And tonight we are in a private apartment with 3 bedrooms, 2 baths, kitchen, living room, and dining, balcony around 2 sides of the apartment, and some strange 4th bedroom that is the size of a cell and has no windows. Lucky we don't need that room. But the place is huge, quite nice and only .5 miles from downtown, all for 106,14 euro!
    The path has become so much more populated since leaving Porto. It is getting difficult to pop behind a bush for a quick pee because there is always someone coming along to see you. But, everyone is friendly and happy and there is a good energy. And the locals have all been wonderful. When leaving Porto we net a man named Francisco who spoke with Noelle in Spanish in Portuguese. He asked where she learned to speak Pirtuguese and was greatly amused when she said "you tube"! He was so proud of his city and the park we were walking in. He gave us a history of how it was built. And, he made my day when he was awed that I. Had been walking since Lisbon.
    Sorry this is just a quick recap. We are out at 6:30 tomorrow morning. Wee have a lot of miles and thhe majority a straight uphill. I need rest for what is ahead. And in case you don't hear from me, I will be in bed sleeping, I am sure
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