Valença

Woke up to more serious rain. No one at the albergue was running out the door. Yoghurt and muesli and fruit for the albergue breakfast. Deluxe!

I left about 8:00. It was cool walking out of the fortress town, under arches, through a tunnel, across what could have been a moat. As soon as you leave, the arrows direct you to the bridge that crosses over to Spain. Did it take 5 minutes to walk across? The rain was magnificent. My shoes were filling with water from the top down. I think that is a new one for me! On the Tui side I walked past a building with a covered stone porch - there were about ten pilgrims trying to wait out the weather. I walked another block and did my waiting in a cafe. Had a long coffee break with a cyclist from Suffolk in the UK who told me about volunteering for an organization that is building a replica of a Viking (?) long ship that was found in the UK. They are making it with the methods used to build the original They have a hard time getting wood because there are so few big trees left.

Good to be back in Spain. Clocks change at the border. New e-sim installed. I managed to find a few Spanish words.

The big rain eventually stopped and the rest of the day was like yesterday - with alternating rain, sun, drizzle in the morning and more or less sun and cloud in the afternoon. Today’s new development was the water levels of the creeks and streams. At one point the stepping stones that are meant to help you during high water were totally covered. My feet were still wet from the rain, and so I just rolled up my pants and walked over. Standing on the stones, the water came well up my shins. Cyclists with heavy e-bikes were behind me, what did they do?

Big wide, engineered Galician paths through gorgeous woods. I saw a deer! About 5 km before O Porriño the path splits. Original version goes along the road through industrial area. The alternate spends a good while in the woods where
I crossed paths with someone who works for? with? the Camino Association. He took credit for getting the alternate route built. He also carried a sello in his bag!

I’m staying at another private albergue. More curtains. This one is almost but not quite full. There is heat! And my clothes finally got washed! After the shower and chores I walked across the small square where the albergue sits to a bar/cafe/tapas place where they were serving food after 4 pm! It was full of pilgrims. With lots more passing by.

I walked around the town a bit. Bought kefir for breakfast (which I later ate and then had to go buy more!) and then came back to fuss with the drying clothes and the damp things from the pack. The albergue was super quiet.

I’m writing this at 10:45 pm. The park outside in the square is still full of kids!

I had thought tomorrow was 22 km but it is only 15!!! That’s a long lazy afternoon! I’m going to Redondela. I booked my room on Easter Monday in Santiago and then sorted the rest of the days after that. Let’s just say the stages are not that even! Maybe tomorrow I’ll get to have a decent afternoon meal!Read more