Spain Nájera

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  • Day 10

    From Vendosa to Cirueña

    April 11 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 10 °C

    Die letzten 2 Tage war ich etwas neben den klassischen Übernachtungsorten in kleineren Dörfern Ventosa und Cirueña. Heute ist es kälter und windig jedoch ohne Regen! Ich treffe immer wieder nette Menschen am weg! Heute unter anderem den Weltmeister im Arschbomben 🤣! Kein Witz!!Read more

  • Day 14

    Walking solo

    April 9 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 10 °C

    So, the profound difference between walking with someone and walking alone is really coming into focus. Today I found myself in a good conversation with a guy from Germany that probably lasted about an hour, but that is very much the exception, so far. Several people along the way have spoken very strongly of the benefit of walking alone and how much they prefer it after doing both.

    I am not inclined to compare them that way. My first Camino was so amazing - I would not change a single thing about it. I remember worrying early on that the amount of social interaction I was having was going to detract from the experience somehow, only to learn that for me it was a needed corrective, and ultimately a great source of joy.

    Now I’m having the Camino I imagined then. I’m only nine days in so maybe there are some bigger social connections ahead for me, but my growing sense right now is that there will not be, and I’m good with that. It’s early days but the - how do I even express it - the interior space that begins to - unfold? open? deepen? is more and more felt. I’m probably trying to talk about it too soon, hence the word finding trouble, but it’s what I’ve been walking with today.

    On a more down to earth level, I had a fairly long walk today that went well. Hi again though! Tomorrow is longer, and the last third is mostly uphill, but it’s supposed to be about 10 degrees cooler, so that will be nice.

    Today I revisited a church in a town famous for a story from the Middle Ages that involving a young man falsely accused of theft and hung during the pilgrimage. He was walking with his parents who continued on, brokenhearted. On their return they found him still hanging but miraculously alive. They ran to the town official and told him this. He was about to eat his roast chicken dinner and he told them their boy was as dead as the chicken on his plate, at which point the chicken leapt to its feet. The boy was cut down and released, and to this day two chickens are always housed in the Cathedral. See video evidence below.

    Tonight I am in a smaller albergue with exactly one other person, an Italian guy. Seems nice, not creepy at all, but if I disappear, his name is Duelio. Kidding! Not actually worried at all. It’s very nice to be in such a as quiet space for a change. And dinner was great!
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  • Day 13

    Longest day yet!

    April 8 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 8 °C

    I planned to walk to Nájera today, which is the standard stage. But I’d really like to get onto the Meseta, on the other side of Burgos, ahead of Santa Semana. That’s the week of Easter, and along with all the Holy Week celebrations, which I am looking forward to, it is also a week off for Spanish school kids and many families have a tradition of spending the week walking a stage of the Camino. Which is wonderful, but also it gets busy, and challenging to find a bed, or do I’ve been told. I’m thinking it may be quieter in the small towns of the Meseta. So I added one more town to my walk today and went about 35-36K, or about 21.5 miles.

    It went well! I mean, it was hot, I got tired, but I was not miserable! I think I’m really getting my legs under me.

    The sign thing is interesting. Absolutely crickets so far. I’ll keep putting it out, because who knows, but maybe it’s just a little too weird for people? It seems like a potentially great fit for the Camino to me, but maybe not? The upside is I really have been loving my days walking alone. Plenty of chats in diner stops and at the albergues. This kind of time and space to just be is an amazing gift.

    I stopped at a place offering “English breakfast “ today. Yes please!

    Also walked through a great area with a lake, lots of birds, including the two in the picture, and squirrels the general size and shape of our grays but a really pretty red.

    I’m in the Rioja region now. Lots and lots of vineyards, looking very different from my first Camino, when they were loaded with grapes. Also lots of olive trees.
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  • Day 47

    Wenn Männerherzen höher schlagen 🍇

    April 3 in Spain ⋅ 🌬 12 °C

    auch Männer haben Träume… 😉 nur etwas anders als Frauen 😜 ich träume vom Tierschutz und er vom Wein ❤️ für mich passt beides! Heute im Tal des Rioja‘s. Wunderschön zu sehen wo unsere Lieblingsweine (unter anderem 🤭) wachsen dürfen. Der Bezug dazu ist nun etwas spezielles 🍷 wenn man Geschichte und Leute kennenlernen durfte.Read more

  • Day 11

    Von Cirueña nach Viloria de Roja

    April 12 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 9 °C

    Im Moment übernachte ich eher in den kleinen Orten unterwegs und weniger in den vorgeschlagenen Etappenzielen. Es sind eher noch authentische Pilgerherbergen dort anzutreffen! So gibt es heute hausgemachte Paella auf Spendenbasis!Read more

  • Day 16–17

    Azorfa to Santo Domingo

    April 11 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    Some breakfast at Rioja Alta Golf Club. ⛳️ Quick stop for Cafe con leche. The entire neighborhood was like a ghost town on the golf course. Hundreds of condos, with a handful of owners. Clearly built at least ten years ago...but then the real estate crashed. Now they sit empty with huge amenities vacant.

    The rest of the day I was low energy and couldn't bring myself up. Until we crossed over this beautiful hill in Ciruina and it reminded me that there are messages every day. Each step is important.
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  • Day 9

    From Logroño to Ventosa

    April 10 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 10 °C

    Auf dem Weg sind wir in Navarete einer Töpferei vorbeigekommen. Dort hat dieses Kunsthandwerk grosse Tradition! Konnte im Gespräch mit einem alten Töpfer austauschen! So schön zu sehen, wenn jemand so passioniert ist. Leider hats mit den Videos nicht geklapptRead more

  • Day 7

    Day 6 Santo Domingo de la Calzada

    April 8 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 9 °C

    An easy 22km day. Met up with Winston and Angela who are continuing a bit further. Maybe the last time I see them but that's the Camino. You meet people for awhile then they're gone😏. There are so many people walking now, I'm always trying to find my quiet spot away from the crowd. Tried again this year to visit the chicken church but again it's s closed. Santo Domingo is a really nice old town but everything is always closed (at least I was able to get supper)Read more

  • Day 38

    Laguardia

    April 6 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    Das Städtchen Laguardia gehört auch zu den Bonitos de Espania Dörfern, also bekommt es noch extra Aufmerksamkeit.

    Laguardia ist die bedeutendste Stadt der Rioja Alavesa und eine der attraktivsten. Auf der ganzen Welt ist sie für ihre Weine und als Geburtsort des Fabeldichters Samaniego bekannt.
    Die Rioja Alavesa hat ein sehr geeignetes Klima für den Anbau von Weinen , was ihr wohlverdienten Ruhm eingebracht hat. Es ist auch ein reiches archäologisches Gebiet mit paläolithischen, römischen und mittelalterlichen Zeugnissen.

    Es fing gut an, der Fahrstuhl hoch zur Altstadt ging nicht dh gleich mal eine unfreiwillige Klettertour 🥵. Runter hätte er wieder funktioniert, da wollten wir nun nicht mehr…

    Das hat uns gut gefallen. Überhaupt ist das ganze La Rioja Gebiet sehr schön.

    Wir sind dann noch bis zum SP in Valtierra gefahren. Pole Position für die Bardenas Reales morgen.
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  • Day 38

    Bodega Tour

    April 6 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    „Der Gedanke, dass spektakuläre Bodega-Bauten und die Verfeinerung der eher deftigen Regionalküche den Weintourismus antreiben kann, ist definitiv aufgegangen“, sagt Román Jiménez Guler vom Hotel Viura.

    Also gucken wir mal ein bisschen in der La Rioja rum, wo es die abgefahrensten Weingüter Spaniens gibt. Wir sind nicht so die Weintrinker, von daher interessiert uns vor allem die Architektur.

    Wir sind erstaunt, dass fast alle Bodegas geschlossen sind. Ok, Sonntag, aber gerade da hatten wir mit Bussen ohne Ende und überall Führungen und Verkostungen gerechnet. Naja, stört uns aber nicht…

    Zunächst durch Haro ins hübsche Euskuernaga, wo besagter Herr Guler sein Hotel Viura hat.
    Auf dem Weg zum Parkplatz der Bodegas Marqués de Riscal in Elciego wieder mal falsch abgebogen und erstmal km weit auf so einspuriger Straße durch die Weinberge gegurkt. Aber man kam auch gleich am Aussichtspunkt lang 😃. Das Gelände selbst war nur bis zum geöffneten Shop zugänglich, man kam an das Hotel nicht näher ran.
    In die Bodega Ysios wäre man mit vorheriger Buchung wohl gekommen. Einen kurzen Blick und ein paar Fotos im Empfang wollten sie uns nicht gewähren. Ist auch zu warm, um Rudi im verschlossenen Womo zu lassen.
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