Spain Nájera

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  • Day 17

    Santo Domingo de la Calzada to Belorado

    Yesterday in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 45 °F

    What a stunning day! The vineyards of Rioja gave way to the wheat and corn fields of Castille y Lyon. The fields seemed to stretch forever as the wind whipped across them. Today I walked with company, which helped the miles fly by although it left less time for reflection. When I stopped for Morning Prayer I read today's Gospel and was struck by the disciples question, "If you are the Messiah, tell us plainly." As I looked out over the vast expanse of this stunning landscape and smelled the richly fertilized land miraculously producing such bounty, I wondered how anyone could doubt.

    After checking in to tonight's Albergue, I made my way down the street for a drink. Locals poured into the bar to cheer their soccer teams, ribbing one another and having a big time. The first game ended and they scattered, only to converge again as the next game began, with shouting and cheering. It was such a community atmosphere.

    I've met so many amazing people on the Camino! Tomorrow I'll leave my little Camino family and bus ahead to Burgos, the next big town. It's bittersweet but part of the journey. There are more family waiting ahead.

    Steps: 36,909
    Distance: 15.89 miles
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  • Day 15

    Camino Day 10

    May 10 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 15 °C

    Disregard my previous post, TODAY was the test of our Pilgrim spirit. Taxis were considered for a split second. Today was 31.45km walk from Logroño to Najera, 506m ascent and 388m descent. the day started lovely with brekky and a visit to the Cathedral to see a Michelangelo painting with Eddie, Chris, Belen, Lily and Basil. It rained for most of the day and moods were dropping as we said goodbye to our friends and had to continue on for another 11km in the rain to our accommodation. 2km out from our accommodation I cracked open a beer I’ve been carrying for 3 days for an occasion just like this. It was a much needed pick me upRead more

  • Day 16

    Azofra to Santo Domingo de la Calzada

    May 10 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 46 °F

    Today was varied and fascinating. It started in the silence of the early morning as I set off in the peaceful mist. The sun stayed hidden most of the day, as the mist gave way to clouds that threatened rain. About an hour outside Santo Domingo de la Calzada, the sprinkles of rain turned heavier, and ponchos came out of bags all along the path as we made our way like ghostly ants into town.

    But once we entered the old section of town, the sun peeked through and the festive atmosphere became apparent. Today was the height of the several-week-long Festival of Santo Domingo, the patron of this town. He lived in the 11th century and felt called to the religious life. It quickly became apparent, though, that the monastery was not for him. Instead, he spent his life building roads and bridges to ease the passage of pilgrims to Santiago.

    Domingo also performed miracles. A couple and their son were making their Camino and spent the night here in town. The innkeeper's daughter fell instantly in love with the boy, who didn't return his advances. Furious, the girl hid one of her family's copper cups in the boy's pack. As they left town, she reported him as a thief. When he was found with the cup, he was hanged on the gallows in town. His parents continued to Santiago, but Santo Domingo held the boy so he didn't die. When his parents came back through town on their way home, they found the boy still alive on the gallows. They went to the judge as he sat down to a dinner of roasted chicken and begged him to free the boy, rejoicing in the miracle. He is said to have exclaimed, "That boy is no more alive than this chicken on my plate," at which his meal sprouted feathers, stood up, and began to squawk. In celebration of this miracle by Santo Domingo, the cathedral that bears his name keeps a hen and a rooster, allegedly descendents of that famed dinner bird, in a cage high up in the cathedral. I was fortunate to hear the rooster crow out his greeting repeatedly while I was there!!

    It was great to have another short walking day and plenty of time to explore this fascinating city. Tomorrow is a longer walking day, so I'm off to bed.

    Steps: 29,954
    Distance: 12.42 miles
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  • Day 11

    11 May Najera 🤗

    May 9 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 14 °C

    Hi ALL Dear friends
    Today was to be a 20+K walk (wrong it ended at 15Km).
    Navarrete to Najera.
    My last night in Navarrete was special. Earlier I'd visited the awesome Navarrete Cathedral.
    As my BMCS friend (Jill Hil) recommended, I enjoyed Navarrete, particularly their Cathedral. More than once!🤣
    The 2nd time was when a Camino British lady and I were walking past the Cathedral and I asked her if she had been in?
    Long story short, she appreciated it to the point Brucee got a Hug.
    See Lucky Brucee is Lucky ,.. HaHÀA
    Photos of the Navarrete Cathedral attached. Again I've tried to share the amazing landscapes via photos.
    The last photo is the lovely BMCS PAM. Pam has organized for her, son, DAN and I to stay at Casa Susi's Albergue together 🥳
    And somewhere in these treasured pix you'll see a landmark feature of the FIOJA landscape, a Stork on its next 🤗
    30331 Steps
    15+ K walked
    Weather coolosh .. jacket on,/,off
    Pilgrims met : many 🤣
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  • Day 15–18

    Ventosa to Azofro

    May 9 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 46 °F

    This morning I stopped off at a bar for a freshly squeezed orange juice as my breakfast before setting off alone to walk. I'm using anti-inflammatory cream and knee supports and I'm walking well, but I kept today and tomorrow as shorter days just to be sure. Rain was forecast for the afternoon, so I kept a pretty good pace. On the way out of Ventosa I got a good look at Iglesia de San Saturnino high on its hill above the city.

    As a set off on the road in this vast landscape I picked up a rock and prayed for a young lady on this journey who's struggling with anxiety. I came to one of the many towers of prayer rocks left by pilgrims and I was struck by the magnitude of prayers offered along this path. Each rock is prayed over then left on the pile. As the tower grows, eventually it topples. But then the rocks are picked up again, new prayers are offered, and new towers grow. How many prayers have been offered over these rocks over the thousands of years? And does each new prayer again magnify the ones that went before it? It feels like prayers said and left here are especially powerful.

    I passed a funny beehive-shaped hut typical of those built here to shelter shepherds and farmers caught in the fields during lightning or ice storms. This one is called the Poyo de Roldon, named for Charlemagne's officer who allegedly defeated the giant Ferragut here. Such rich history!

    A couple hours into the day I came to the first town, Najera. I passed the Monasterio de Santa Maria la Real where groups of high schoolers lounged in the grass having a break. They snickered at us as we walked by in our filthy shoes and practical headwear, using walking poles in the middle of the city. I'm sure we looked like ridiculous beggars to them!

    A stop for a real breakfast turned bittersweet as I walked toward a table full of familiar faces. Several of the group were leaving the "20 K club" after this stop. Carolina is a loud, hilarious Swedish woman who's the life of every party. She's always still asleep when I leave in the morning, but when I get to the first stop she's already there, in a dress and leggings with full makeup on and carrying her pack. I leave her still there, but she's already at the next Albergue when I arrive (unless she's already found the nearest bar). Several of us think she secretly taxis everywhere and just pretends to walk. She laughs at that but never actually denies it. Well today she took a bus from our stop in Najera back home to Sweden. She said her husband had gotten tired of the children and asked her to come home!

    Najera was also where we said farewell to Leva and Keith. Leva is twenty, a day care worker from Norway. She walked the entire Camino with her mother when she was twelve, and she's been walking these past two weeks on her own. She greatly increased her distance today in hopes of getting to Burgos before she has to head home. And Keith is a retired guy from Manchester, England, who's doing his fifth Camino since he retired. He said every year and a half or so his wife says, "Isn't it about time you went on a Camino?" And sends him off for a month or more. Just another way to survive retirement! He, too, picked up his pace today. I'm hoping our paths will cross again.

    At one point today I just stood in the road and looked in all directions. I could see field after field, mountains and hills, cities and villages - it seemed to stretch on forever in all directions. It's easy in every-day life to lose perspective on how vast and varied creation is - and how vast and varied the human family is. It's changing my worldview to be plopped in the middle of all of it and to see myself as part of this one enormous, complexly interwoven creation.

    I spent some time this afternoon huddled up with others making plans together about next stops. I'm just so immensely grateful for this time and this experience.

    Tomorrow I'm off for the chicken church!!

    Steps: 29,885
    Distance: 12.65 miles

    I've now covered 121.54 miles of the 500-mile journey. It's going so fast!
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  • Day 12

    Day 10 - Views that go on forever

    May 7 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 10 °C

    Najera to Santo Domingo de la Calzada
    21.4km
    After a nice sleep and breakfast at the best 1 star hotel you can imagine, I left Najera on a very cold morning, 2 or 3deg which needed my puffer jacket.
    The first half of the day was excellent walking conditions passing many more vineyards. The cold was justified, I could see snow on the highest peak in the distant range, which turned out to be San Lorenzo. Mostly solo walking but spent some time chatting to Martin from Melbourne.
    After a long 2km uphill, a picnic lunch at the top. It was chilly in the shade but gorgeous in the sun.
    After a strangely deserted Cirueña, the agriculture changed to wheat, peas and broad beans., with occasional rapeseed. The views were out of this world, like a painting with green as far as the eye could see and beneath perfect blue skies and fluffy white clouds.
    Got into Santo Domingo in good time, so checked in, showered, washed clothes, and had time to explore. Checked out the bridge, Cathedral, bell tower, and then paella and Rioja for dinner.
    Accumulated distance 240km
    Moment of the day was coming over the rise and being hit with the views of the fields, breathtaking.
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  • Day 15–16

    Azofra - Grañón

    May 5 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 52 °F

    Started at 0730 with a cool slightly overcast morning. Great walking weather! By 0945 the sky had darkened but thankfully no thunder. Got to Cirueña, the first town we came to about a minute before the rain got heavy around 1000. Ducked into a cafe and watched it pour for about 20 minutes. Back on the trail as it lightened up to a steady but not terrible rain all the way to Santo Domingo de la Calzada. Another quick rest stop then off to final destination, Grañón.
    Settled in to our hostel, grabbed a beer then dinner at the only bar/ cafe in this town of about 20.
    20 residents. So quiet!
    Saw three of our friends along the way today.
    Life is good! Albeit a little damp.
    For Lula and Campbell - the favorite part of our day was not getting too wet and seeing 3 of the friends we’ve made.
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  • Day 14–15

    Navarrete / Azofra

    May 4 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 54 °F

    Got an early (for us) start after coffee con leche and a muffin. On the camino about 0740. Headed west with the warm morning sun on our backs.
    We are in the La Rioja region, famous for some of the best wine in the world. There’s nowhere you can look without seeing rolling hills of vineyards. As we neared the town of Nájera we crossed a foot bridge over a clear, fast running stream in the woods. The kind you’d expect to see trout in. As we got to the other side of the bridge there was a piece of iron someone had written the name, ‘Mike’ on.
    I met Michael Harris ( Mike ) when I was 18 years old. We were walking opposite directions with guitar cases in hand to / from our parents houses. ( He had recently moved in and we hadn’t met ) We stopped and discovered we both had the exact same cheap acoustic guitars and played the same type of music. A friendship was born that day that lasted 50 plus years. We played thousands of songs in thousands of places and sang thousands of perfect harmonies. Went through marriages and divorces, kids and careers, grew apart and came back together. Brothers from different mothers.
    I introduced Mike to fly fishing in the 90s and we went on to fish some amazing rivers and had even more amazing fish stories.
    Mike was an amazing artist and would have had a field day with his easel and paints from some of the pictures we’ve taken on our Camino. He was also a storyteller and we laughed ourselves to tears more times than I could ever count.
    I could go on and on but you get the picture.
    Sure miss you lil’ buddy.
    For Lula and Campbell - the best part of our day was finding a coffee and lunch halfway, having an awesome place to stay and running into our friend Beörn who we met on the train to St Jean and having dinner with him!
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  • Day 16

    Jour 12 Repos a Nájera

    April 29 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    Journée de repos aujourd’hui! On charge les batteries . On passe la journée à Nájera là où le Roi Sanchos a vue l’image de le vierge dans la montagne et y a fait construire un monastère , Monasterio de Santa María la Real.
    Le pont relie le vieux village à la ville plus moderne avec un beau parc qui longe la rivière .
    Demain on quitte pour Santo Domingo.
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  • Day 16

    Jour 11 Navarrete à Nájera

    April 29 in Spain ⋅ 🌬 21 °C

    11e journée de marche ! La fatigue se fait sentir. Nous prenons une journée de repos demain . Je dois soigner mes pieds qui ne guérissent pas vraiment rapidement . Nous passerons la journée de mercredi ici à Nájera dans un bel Albergue. Jeudi nous irons à Santo Domingo , nous verrons si nous prenons une charrette ( autobus) selon l’état de mon orteil. Ça change un peu nos plans 😢, nous verrons pour la suite , peut-être que notre camino se fera en deux ou trois parties 🤷🏼‍♀️!Read more

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