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Spain Los Arcos

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  • TravelerSDC
    1
    2222
    Day 9

    Abalgar. 7 May

    May 7 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    Hi ALL
    I'm enjoying the Camino Frances
    The scenic walking and evening friendships. So much so I've missed posting.
    Landscape photos always get my attention, but even with cropping their magic fades away.
    Here are a few photos.
    The first 2 photos are the Alto del Perdón which is at the top of a windy peek (Wind generators for kilometers). A place I never thought I'd get to. Camino pilgrimages kindly take your photos, and the 3rd photo is the Italian "Antonio" who took the photo of me at those iconic steel Camino sculptures (2nd photo).
    The landscape photo is Cirauqui and lucky me it's view popped up unexpectedly, as I rounded a bend. Cirauqui is a photo that appears in the guide books. The last two photos (taken in Estella) are examples of the many large churches one sees in most villages.
    Tonight I'm staying at a small apartment in Abáigar. I booked Abáigar in Sydney and, while good and management is excellent, it's off the Camino Frances track, which means no fellow Pilgrims to chat to.
    I liked to finish how unexpectedly a Spanish Lady or Man will wish you a "Buen Camino" as you walk by. It a great feeling. 🙏🥰    Read more

  • TravelerSDC
    1
    Day 9

    11 pm in way out Abàigar

    May 7 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 11 °C

    Well to my surprise and gratefulness I happened to be with a group of French mountain climbers. (both genders).
    Long story short they pour a tasty cognac into me..Did I resist. Well you know the Truth 🤗
    Then they invited me to dinner and, you know what I
    tried/pretended to say 🤔 Result is I had one of my best nights I could of ever hope for on my solo pilgrimage :-))) Lucky Brucee 🥰    Read more

  • TravelerMy Camino
    211
    Day 13

    Torres de Rio to Logrono

    May 7 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 48 °F

    I woke up this morning with my knee still very painful from yesterday's downhill walk and looked at the hills in store for today. I decided to rest my knee by taking a bus to Logrono, where I had a reservation for tonight. Just as I was wondering where to catch the bus, along came Jane, who was in my same boat, and she showed me where to go. We rode the bus together with Diane, who was staying in the same Albergue as me. After dropping my bag, I found a Farmacia where I got an anti-inflamatory cream to use on my knees and I was set.

    I wandered a while and found myself at the Concatedral de Santa Maria de la Redonda feeling a little defeated. I didn't want to "cheat" today by not walking, but I wasn't sure my knees would hold out. The Cathedral is imposing and the high altar is magnificent. But as I walked around, I saw a tiny carving around the edge of one of the side altars. It was Jesus washing the feet of Pete at the last supper. All the other disciples are busy at supper and don't seem to notice what Jesus is doing. And Peter holds up his hand in protest, refusing Jesus' ministrations. Jesus looks at him so tenderly, and it felt like him telling me, "you don't have to do this all on your own. Let me help you. Take a bus when you need to, rest when you need to, and let a service transport your pack when you need to. Trust me to care for you through others." I really needed to hear that today!! And it's an important life lesson for me, as well.

    I relaxed in the sunshine with my feet up for several hours outside the Concatedral watching the world go by and chatting with other pilgrims having a rest day.

    I wanted to see the Iglesia de Santiago Real with its contradictory images of St. James: one slaughtering the Moors, the infidels, and the other as the gentle pilgrim. But when I went inside I was struck by a statue of Jesus with his hand out in blessing. It seemed to confirm what I had received from the footwashing carving.

    I'm off now to buy a small day pack in anticipation of sending my full backpack on tomorrow while I test out my knees. Then I'm off to dinner - the priests Terry and Vanessa are having a rest day here today, so we'll meet up tonight for some paella. God is teaching me so much!

    Steps: 12,434
    Distance: 4.87 miles    Read more

  • TravelerMy Camino
    1211
    Day 12

    Villamayor to Torres del Rio

    May 6 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 41 °F

    Today was a different sort of day. It was 43 degrees when I set out and didn't warm up much all day. The road was mercifully flat but mercilessly hard, compacted dirt, which posed its own challenges to my knees. But I set out to make today about thanksgiving.

    I'm so thankful for the beauty and peace of this landscape I get to traverse. I'm grateful for the years of singing in church choirs that bring songs of thanksgiving and praise to my heart and lips so readily. I'm thankful for this physical challenge which helps me appreciate the way God created me.

    The first 12 miles of today's journey passed in almost complete solitude without passing through a single town. There were just enough of us spread along the road that I never worried I'd lost the trail, but there was plenty of time to think and reflect. That was really nice. I was surprised, though, at the beating my knees took on the hard road.

    The first town any of us came to was Los Arcos. I was so grateful to pass a Farmacia, a cross between a CVS and an Immediate Care. The amazing woman there, who spoke not one word of English, found me the perfect knee supports and coached me on how to put them on, indicating that if they make you cry, they're too tight. We had a good laugh about that.

    As I continued into the quiet town I started to smell coffee and then heard the laughter and chatter. All us pilgrims gathered in a square outside a bar, greeting one another and pulling up chairs as we ate a bite and talked about our days. There's such a sense of community here, making plans for the next town together and treating one another's aches and pains. It's really something special.

    Now I'm off to explore the Iglesia de Santo Sepulcro and spend some time in thanksgiving before I head to another lively Pilgrims' meal. I can't thank you all enough for the gift of this time and this experience, and for sharing it with me.

    Sitting in Iglesia de Santo Sepulcro this evening I was struck by how many have come here since the 12th century seeking solace, strength, hope, peace. I ran my hands over the stones of the tiny octagonal structure and imagined all those who'd done so before me - and added my prayers to theirs.

    Steps: 32, 024
    Distance: 13.56 miles    Read more

  • TravelerMy Camino
    4
    122221161
    Day 11

    Lorca to Villamayor de Monjardin

    May 5 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 52 °F

    Today was so peaceful and beautiful. It threatened rain all day, but the heavens never actually opened up. I spent less time looking at buildings and cities, and much more time in peaceful prayer. I sang a lot of hymns like "Welcome, happy morning" and "Morning has broken." It was so quiet and God's creation was so vast. It was hard not to be awed.

    The path would wind mysteriously through fields of wheat and it was impossible to see past the little turn ahead of you. It made me think of Thomas Merton's prayer about not being able to see the road ahead of you and having no idea where you're going but trusting God to lead you. He says he's not sure he's following God on this path but prays that the desire to follow God is enough to please God. What a beautiful way to live!

    Several times today I picked up special rocks and prayed over them for special people. I then added them to the piles gathered at way markers as a lasting prayer. Prayer marked my day in a beautiful way today.

    I came to the famed wine fountain in Irache, where the vineyard owners fill one side with wine and one with water each morning. It's a gift and blessing for pilgrims. The two sides together are to depict Jesus' first miracle at Cana turning water into wine.

    In the tiny village of Azqueta I stopped at a little bar. Now that I've found my pace I run into the same people over and over. Four of us shared a heavenly piece of banana bread here warm right out of the oven and with a super crispy crust coated in almonds and sesame seeds. Inside, a poster told the story of the place. The now owner came upon the place when he was a pilgrim but found it abandoned and up for sale. He went on to the Albergue up the street for a drink and started to talk with the proprietress. He said he fell immediately in love with her. When he completed his pilgrimage, he came back to the town to econnect with her. They got married and bought the bar so pilgrims would always have a stop along the way. Their hospitality is clearly a ministry not just a job.

    As I walked into Villamayor de Monjardin, St. James greeted me with his encouraging staff. My Albergue is called Oasis Trails and is a wonderfully welcoming spot. My room looks out on the town church, Iglesia de San Andres. The room is named Peace, which has been my special prayer all day.

    It was a chilly day, so a group of us from here and from the neighboring Albergue are warming by the wood stove chatting and sharing drinks. What a great end to a day! Tonight we'll share a pilgrims meal together. These meals bring the whole Albergue together over a long shared table, making meaningful connections and sharing stories. I love the day of prayerful solitude, but the evenings of camaraderie are wonderful, too.

    Steps: 29,680
    Distance: 12.59 miles    Read more

  • TravelerCamino de Santiago - May 2025
    2111
    Day 10

    Day 8 - The long haul to Logroño

    May 5 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 11 °C

    Los Arcos to Logroño
    30.1km
    I knew it was a long day ahead, and as I woke up early I de used to hit the road. Got walking at 6.30 and beat the sun, but others were too. Relatively easy walking to Torre del Rio for first coffee stop. I’m still battling a cold so coffee plus orange juice.
    The onwards tracks were good for walking, but generally inclining with the occasional steep climb. There was a sobering moment after Torres del Rio with many many cairns and memorials for loved ones, some who had died on the trail.
    Company was good today, Cass from Perth, Melissa from Perth, Ian from Cape Town, and Nora from Finland. Spent time chatting with each.
    The promised rain came in at 10am, my new umbrella held up well, but is amusing to see all the coloured ponchos bobbing along like turtles.
    A really amusing moment in Viana when we were pulled aside by two policemen, only to find that they were on admission to find pilgrims, stamp their pilgrim passports, and give a momento. So good.
    Reached Logroño at about 2.30pm which exceeded expectations. Feet very sore and right shoe has spat the dummy.
    After a bit of drama eventually into the Air BnB with a friendly host, collect my luggage, have a well earned shower, then a bit of exploring. The Cathedral of Santa María de la Redonda is imposing and pretty special, it even has its own little Michelangelo!
    Finished the evening with a fantastic polpo before an early night ahead of another big day.
    Accumulated distance 178.0km
    Moment of the day was being stopped by the policemen, just so good.    Read more

  • TravelerCamino de Santiago - May 2025
    1
    11211
    Day 9

    Day 7 - Spring glory

    May 4 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 11 °C

    Estella to Los Arcos
    21.9km
    It was a funny old day today. The pilgrim grapevine was alive with the news of rain on the trail later in the day. Some folk set off at 2am to beat the rain! Not me, a nice continental breakfast at the best accommodation yet, and then on the road just after 8am.
    It was a lovely morning, blue skies with light cloud, nippy enough for a light jacket, and dead quiet in Estella on a Sunday morning.
    First stop was the wine fountain at Bodegas Irache! I had bought my camping cup specifically for this moment. Not premier vintage, not not vinegar either, in fact quite good table wine. Apparently 100 litres are made available daily, getting there at 9am was perfect.
    The day was mostly unremarkable, in a good way. Track condition generally good, generally not too much hill climbing, some forest walking but mostly through fields of agricultural produce, and we beat the rain.
    But Spain in Spring, wow! The views today were what I was hoping for. Lots of fields of young wheat waving in the breeze, fields of peas, vineyards, and olive orchards. All bordered by wild poppies and rapeseed. Very pretty.
    My accommodation tonight is very interesting, an old Knights Templar hostel where they would accept pilgrims to the holy land, and then provide security along the route. La Casa De Jerusalem is the name. The door is big enough for a horse.
    Accumulated distance 147.9km
    Moment of the day - hours of walking through drop-dead gorgeous spring fields.    Read more

  • Camino de Santiago
    12
    Day 12–13

    To Logroño

    May 2 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 55 °F

    Trying to sleep with 20 other tired pilgrims in one large room on bunk beds has its challenges. Like synchronized snoring and the door to the bathroom shutting hard all through the night.
    All that to say, we didn’t get much sleep last night. 😬
    After coffee and breakfast about 0700 we set off on the 21km ( 13ish miles ) walk to Logroño. It’s pretty much all steep uphill for the first hour then levels off a bit on the ridge you just climbed to. About 3 hours in you could hear thunder and see lightning in the distance in the ominous gray skies. Thunder rolled and the clouds opened. Small hail, big rain and lightning bolts a plenty as we picked up the pace towards Logroño.
    Found a cafe in Viana - about half way to our destination and ducked in for Cafe con leche and a second breakfast and a chance to shelter a while.
    The rain slowed and off we went.
    Slogged into Logroño and found our Hostel about 1400. A private room with our own bathroom. Whooohooo! We’ll sleep tonight!
    The rain had stopped so we hung wet clothes on balcony rails to dry, rested a bit then out into this beautiful city for some Friday evening R&R. Tapas, Spanish wine and ice cream with a thousand other people walking in narrow streets and enjoying this community is good for the soul.
    Life is good!    Read more

  • Camino de Santiago
    1
    2132
    Day 11–12

    Torres del Rio

    May 1 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 52 °F

    Got off to a great start after breakfast with our beautiful host, Helena, at Albergue La Perla Negra in Azqueta. She fed us a wonderful pilgrims meal last night of rice, chickpea soup, potatoes, salad, wine and fruit for dessert. Such a genial soul.
    Today’s 14 mile walk was amazingly easier than previous days. Maybe all those hills we’ve climbed have made us stronger . I know we are mentally stronger too as our muscles adapt to the day to day hikes / walks.
    We were on wide paths and gravel roads through rolling farmlands of green wheat and oats as far as you could see with brilliant red poppies popping up along the way. It must look amazing when these green fields turn golden at harvest season.
    Got to our Albergue in Torres del Rio about 1430 - which gave us ample time to shower and hand wash a couple of our clothes and line dry. Annnnd to have a couple beers and some of the best, fresh aceitunas (olives) you could ask for since they’re locally grown.
    Off to Logroño mañana after a good night’s rest.
    Life is good!    Read more

  • TravelerCamino de Santiago/ Camino Fra
    Day 8

    Day 8 Pamplona to Puente La Reina

    April 29 in Spain ⋅ 🌬 21 °C

    Day 8 Tuesday April 29 Pamplona to Puente La Reina
    Where I stayed in Pamplona was nice. I was by myself but quickly after I arrived I met William. William is from Taiwan, majored in Entomology study of bugs. Speaks good English and was so sweet. He walked with me the next day. And we met other people we both knew on our way. The weather was beautiful. When we were walking, we came across a hostel that is run by Maltese priests of The Order of Malta
    The hostels is free and offers accommodation and dinner to pilgrims. I wish i knew about it. I would’ve stayed there. Oh well maybe next time ha ha!!! Walked 24.1 kilometres. When you start walking with someone you don’t always walk all the way with them. I didn’t understand this before I came on the Comino. It’s actually very nice because you have time to walk by yourself and it’s funny but you really do wanna walk on yours own. It gives you time to think about things, to look at the scenery and sometimes I find myself praying. Just have to make sure you keep your eyes open so you don’t miss any of the signs and go the wrong way, There is always a pilgrim coming behind you. On the way I took pictures at the bottom of hills and the top to show the elevation!
    I climbed up to the Alto de Perdón (Hill of Forgiveness) a tough climb just past Pamplona. A centuries old pilgrim tradition is still in use today. Pilgrims forgive others, and ask forgiveness for themselves, with each step up the hill. I climbed lots of steps and did lots of forgiveness.
    William and I met again. We stayed at the same Albergue. Most of the time I book a bed and the Albergue is right in the beginning of the town when you arrive. Without knowing, this one was just out of the town so had to walk an extra mile no fun at the end of the day! Had a nice dinner and met other pilgrims.    Read more

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