Uterga

What a stunning day! My morning worship was walking through stunning fields of wheat and wildflowers: yellow mustard flowers, purple thistle blossoms, and bright red poppies. Birds were singing and bees were buzzing. I found myself singing "All things bright and beautiful" over and over.

The first town I came to was Maruzabal, close by. It being Sunday, all the bars (with drinks, food, and restrooms) were closed up tight. But I was shocked to see most of the churches closed as well.

The next town was Obanos. I could hear music as I entered town - it was the Spanish version of a mariachi band who were wandering all through town stopping in different squares and parks to play what sounded like a song of praise. The story is that William of Aquitaine lived here. His sister Felicia walked the Camino and came back determined to become a nun. It enraged her brother that she would turn her back on her royal lineage, and he killed her. Overcome with guilt, he walked the Camino and came back to found the church here, Iglesia de San Juan Bautista.

Next was the ancient city of Puenta la Reina. The streets are so narrow! Very tall buildings (3 stories) right next to paved streets. It's scary walking when cars come careening through. The Iglesia de Santiago here was so serene, and it's becoming very meaningful to see statues of St. James encouraging the pilgrims.

The road became more difficult up to Maneru, and I was glad to find a shaded square where I could relax on a bench by the fountain and catch my breath. I passed the lovely Iglesia de San Pedro and its cemetery. I love the idea that the whole town makes an event out of cleaning the headstone for All Saints, even laying flowers on each grave,

An even steeper climb led to the very steep city of Cirauqui, whose name means "nest of vipers," perhaps because of bandits who used to lie in wait along the brutal road. Leading out of Cirauqui I traveled an ancient Roman road, its stonese worn smooth by 2,000 years f trravelers. There were ruts evident where wagon wheels had worn them. I crossed a Roman bridge before heading onto the rocky trail to Lorca.

Lorca means "struggle," and the twn is aptly named for the trail to get there. It was a series of steep climbs both uphill and down. It was such a relief to finally arrive in town!

I'm staying tonight at the Alberque del Lorca, which is an asolute treasure. The owner greeted me with a cld drink and sent me up to settle in and shower before I came down to check in. I had dinner with 3 Fenchmen, a German, a Norwegian, and 2 Brazilians. It was a huge, gorgeous salad and fall-apart pork cheeks with roasted potatoes. Several bottles of wine were also included. One of my roommates (four of us are sharing a room) is fom China and had never heard of a church community that actually loves and supports one another and whose lives are changed by their faith. It was fun to share with her about Incarnation.

Well, it's 9:00, which is Camino bedtime. Good night!

Steps: 33,948
Miles: 14.40Read more