Spain Santiago de Compostela

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  • Day 41

    Santiago Rest Day Pt 3

    May 18 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    After a rest from being a tourist I went out in search of food. Cerveza, calamari, and pimientos Padrón. Very nice.

    It was still early so I went to Praza Obradoiro for a bit. Some say Disney is the happiest place on earth, but I think this is better. All those pilgrims arriving in Santiago after days or weeks working hard to achieve their goals and sometimes overcoming tremendous obstacles. Once you arrive in Santiago you know that you can do whatever you set your mind and body to do. And that sense of accomplishment feels great!

    And here are a few statistics. So far this year 679 pilgrims completed the Camino Invierno, compared to 54,383 completing the Camino Frances. No wonder I didn’t meet many people!

    The Pilgrims Office posts stats each day of how many have arrived. I did not do a screen capture yesterday so I’m not sure, but about 2000 were registered on that day.

    Not everyone goes to the Pilgrim Office and not everyone gets a Compostela certificate. But I like to be counted. And I like that little piece of paper, even though I rarely look at it.

    Back to my day. About an hour before mass there was no lineup to go in. I guess the noon mass was the popular one today. So I went in. I did a little tour and found a good seat.

    The question on every pilgrim’s mind: “Will they swing the botafumeiro?” This is a large incenser, the translation is ‘boot of smoke.’ In the movie The Way you can see Emilio Estevez help with it. In fact, it takes six men to pull the ropes that set the botafumeiro in motion. In medieval times it may have helped with the stench of the pilgrims (no showers in their shelters).

    Maybe it is a bit touristic to want to attend mass just in case they swing it. Maybe we should all want to attend mass just for the sake of church. I agree with that, but I’m still a bit excited when they swing it. It isn’t every day. Certain days, holy days, and when someone donates a large sum to the cathedral.

    They did not swing the botafumeiro today. But mass was good and I got a final pilgrim blessing.

    Then I found ice cream and made my way back to the Inn.
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  • Day 40

    Santiago Rest Day

    May 17 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    It’s nice to have a full day to explore Santiago de Compostela.

    I also went out for a walk at sunset yesterday. The main reason was to see the ‘shadow pilgrim’ but it was nice just to walk around. There were lots of pilgrims sitting at restaurants, lots of music and singing. And I saw one more Invierno pilgrim, so that was good. I didn’t meet a lot of people on the Way, but now I think I have seen them all in Santiago.

    This morning I walked over to Alameda Park, one of the nicest spots in Santiago. I had to get a photo with the Two Marias. And nice views of the cathedral, etc.

    Then I headed to the cathedral where I had booked a tour of the Portico of Glory, which included entry to the Museo. We were not allowed to take photos in the Portico but it was very impressive, especially considering it was built more than 800 years ago. Check this website if you want more https://catedraldesantiago.es/visitaportico/en/…

    I thought I might catch the noon mass after that, but the lines were SO long. I have never seen lines like this here, and last time I was here it was a holy year. Could be because it is a weekend and yesterday was a holiday here.

    So I sat and had a café con leche, then went shopping.
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  • Day 40

    Santiago de Compostela

    May 17 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    After freshening up I went back to the cathedral, paid my respects to St James, then walking around a bit.

    Today being fiesta day, certain areas were extra busy, especially Alameda Park, so I avoided that. I ended up at a restaurant near the Pilgrim Office, where it is always fun to people watch. Lise joined me again for an early dinner.

    Then I came back and emptied my backpack. 🎒 Now I have to decide what to put back into it.
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  • Day 35–37

    A little more of Santiago

    May 11 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 59 °F

    Today was a day to relax and recover, but I had scheduled a tour of the Cathedral’s towers and museum.
    There was a heavy rain coming down when I stepped out… wonderful for an outdoor tour! It never seems to stop raining here! And nobody seems to care. People still go out, get wet, drink a coffee, and repeat.
    The views from the towers and the second floor of the cathedral were incredible and well worth the time and the wet clothes.
    Food for the soul, and the hake in a green sauce with vegetables that I had for lunch were my food for the tummy!
    After that, back to the room to rest and get ready for tomorrow.
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  • Day 35–37

    Santiago de Compostela

    May 11 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 50 °F

    Walking into Obradoiro Square left me with mixed feelings. On one hand, the overwhelming emotion and the need to cry because I was finally there after a journey that had been painful to say the least. On the other hand, there was so much excitement around that any emotion other than happiness seemed out of place. And there I was, sitting in the middle of the Square, trying to process what it meant to be there, while people were tripping over me, dumping their pack packs around to take pictures, getting in the way of other people’s photos.
    And so, I bottled up whatever feelings I had, I turned around, and I asked a stranger to take my picture while I smiled.
    After going to the Pilgrims’ Office to claim my Compostela, I met my friend Tamara and her younger daughter Lola for lunch. It was a beautiful reunion after several years without seeing each other. We caught up over lunch, and then went for a walk to hidden gems in the city, places with no pilgrims and no tourists.
    The old town is packed with history, breath taking architecture, and also bars, restaurants, gift shops, and of course, tourists and pilgrims.
    But there are still areas that seem to have not been discovered by the crowds.
    After saying goodbye to my friend, I attended the Pilgrim’s Mass in The Cathedral.
    It is now time to relax, reflect, and plan the next stage of this journey.
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  • Day 20

    We have arrived!

    May 11 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 10 °C

    Well, we have arrived in beautiful Santiago💖
    It was a 18 km hilly trek in to the Cathedral Square, following a throng of pilgrims all morning. I felt absolutely surrounded by the love of all of my family and friends as I walked in on Mother's Day. Each little patch on my pack reminding me of your well wishes for me and so I am celebrating with each of you this evening with wine, the most ginormous bread you have ever seen, and a bucket of olives. Tomorrow will bring our extra day in the city to really see the cathedral and appreciate the fruits of our efforts and journey. Today we went to evening Mass which was absolutely packed and were able to see quite a few of the people we had met along the way. It's had to believe that we will soon be back home, where more stories will unfold. Thank you everyone 🩷Read more

  • Day 66–68

    Santiago de Compostela

    May 11 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    And that's a wrap! Two months on the road and over 1000 kilometers of walking all culminate in this final step - arriving in front of the cathedral in Santiago de Compostela. 🎉 It still hasn't hit me, it kind of just felt like another day of walking. I got my picture in front of the cathedral, my last stamp in the "credential" (the pilgrim's passport) and my "Compostela", the certificate proving that I completed my pilgrimage. And then I went on to visit Santiago which is a beautiful, vibrant city. I also got to meet up with Mikel and Daniel, my friends from the Canary Islands who arrived the previous day but were still around to grab a drink and celebrate our arrival! 🍻 Tomorrow I'm off to Finisterra (by bus) for a quick look at the ocean and one final stop before heading back to France. 🥹Read more

  • Day 16

    15.7 Am Ziel: Santiago de Compostela 🏁

    May 10 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 12 °C

    In der Taberna "OXACHEGOU", etwas außerhalb der Altstadt kehren wir ein.
    Eine urige galizische Gaststätte mit Speisen aus der kleinen Speisekarte.

    Wir haben das große Los gezogen.

    Gemütliche Atmosphäre, zuvorkommender Service, frische Zubereitung der Speisen,
    superlecker ‼️
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  • Day 15

    15.2 Am Ziel: Santiago de Compostela 🏁

    May 9 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    Bis zum Örtchen "O Milladoiro" 🏘️ steigt der Weg dann auf 250 Höhenmeter an..., aber langsam und stetig. DAS bringt uns rein gar nicht aus dem Rhythmus, haben wir doch tatsächlich schon "Schlimmeres" gemeistert 👍.

    In "A Rocha Vella" 🏘️ an einer Wand mit Graffiti Kunst 🎨🖌️ vorbei.

    Am Stadtrand von Santiago de Compostela stoßen wir auf die kleine Kirche "Iglesia de Santa Marta", na, weit dürfte es bis zur Kathedrale jetzt nicht mehr sein.
    Ist auch nicht mehr weit, aber die Strecke zieht sich wie Kaugummi 😄.
    Jetzt noch um die Ecke am "Alameda Park" 🌳 vorbei, durch die ein oder andere kleine Gasse und schon sehen wir die Türme der Kathedrale..., sie sind zum Greifen nah.
    Und genau jetzt, stehen wir auf dem "Praza do Obradoiro" vor der Kathedrale ✝️.

    Nach 23,4 Kilometern haben wir heute die Kathedrale in Santiago de Compostela erreicht 🙌.

    Wir sind soooo stolz auf uns 🥲.
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  • Day 264–266

    Santiago de Compostela + der Jakobsweg..

    May 8 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    ...den wir vorhatten zu laufen ☝️... und da wir Schönwetter-Läufer sind, fiel das Vorhaben förmlich ins Wasser 💧🌧🤷🏻‍♀️... daher gab's als Trost eine Schlechtwetter-Bolo 🍝 im Camper und einen verregneten, abendlichen Verdauungsspaziergang in die galizische Pilgerstadt. Übrigens, eine wirklich unterschätzte und durchaus sehenswerte, alte, kleine Stadt ☝️. Sicherlich dominiert sie mit beeindruckender Kathedrale durch ihren Ruf als Pilgerstadt. Diese kann sich wirklich sehen lassen. Ihre tägliche 12 Uhr- Pilgermesse, mit dem regelmässig geschwenkten, menschengrossen Weihrauchschwenker (Botafumeiro), zieht täglich hunderte von Besucher an.
    Weitere Highlights sind die unendlich vielen Tapabars.
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