Silver Gulch

44. Colorado's Untamed Powder

Keystone - Breckenridge - Crested Butte - Telluride

"Work hard, play harder," the mantra echoed, and in Keystone, Colorado, we lived it to the fullest. Two days of legendary powder skiing, a baptism in snow that felt like a dream spun into reality. We even dared to venture into the backcountry, skinning uphill for the sublime reward of untouched slopes. I've chased powder across continents, but this was something transcendent. A three-day deluge had transformed the mountain, and even the seasoned ski patrol, veterans of countless descents, declared it the best snow in half a decade. Not even the famed depths of Japan could rival this celestial powder.

Independence Bowl held a particular, heart-stopping allure. Its steep, almost vertical face was intimidating, yet utterly exhilarating. Each turn was a conquest, a defiant dance with gravity. Our nocturnal escapades, however, proved less triumphant. A late-night encounter with the local police at a recreation center forced a hasty relocation at 2:30 am. Exhaustion clung to us the following day, a leaden weight, but the siren call of the slopes was too strong. We skied relentlessly, driven by an insatiable hunger for the snow.

Our evenings were a symphony of intense physical activity and cozy contentment. Yoga, Pilates, high-intensity interval training, and weightlifting sessions fueled our bodies, transforming us into honed instruments. Hot showers washed away the day's chill, followed by hearty dinners cooked in our trusty camper. Then, the simple pleasures: binge-watching shows, indulging in chips, pistachios, and warm chocolate chip cookies. Deep, restorative sleep followed, a well-earned reward for our warrior-like efforts on the slopes. I swear, Theo had reached the zenith of his outdoor adventurer persona. And me? A former military service with officer lieutenant Hautzendorfer 😅. It wasn't always a joyride. I even lost a piece of a tooth shredding and tumbling down a steep slope in Breckenridge—at the extreme piste, Third Bowl 🥉.

Our Colorado tour continued, a whirlwind of exhilarating descents. Keystone, Breckenridge, Crested Butte (with its challenging terrain, expertly groomed runs, and demanding off-piste areas), Telluride (terrifyingly steep, yet breathtakingly scenic), and Vail each offered unique thrills. Telluride, in particular, captured my heart. Its charming, small-town atmosphere was infectious, a warm embrace in the mountain air. Even a grizzled bus driver greeted me with a friendly fist bump, a gesture reminiscent of quaint Alpine villages. A meticulous ski service at REI ensured our gear was primed for peak performance, amplifying the sheer joy of carving through the pristine snow.

American skiing offered a distinct, liberating experience. The abundance of maintained, yet ungroomed slopes was a revelation. In Europe, the lines between groomed and off-piste (no support, you're on your own) are sharply defined. Here, the vast bowl slopes, the challenging mogul fields, and the gentle glade skiing—my personal favorite—created a playground of endless possibilities. They also have black diamond, double black diamond, and extreme pistes. We conquered them all. The experience was transformative. Gear up, head out, rip it off—that became our driving force.

Our last shred stop in Washington: Stevens Pass. Nineteen hours to go...Read more