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Orkney 2024
  • Gayle Blackie
July 2024

Orkney 2024

A 13-day adventure by Gayle Read more
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  • Trip start
    July 11, 2024
    Gayle BlackieTravelerOrkney 2024

    Day 1 - the ferry to Kirkwall

    July 11, 2024 in Scotland ⋅ 🌬 14 °C

    This has been such a good ferry trip because 4 of us stood out the rear of the ferry most of the time chatting. First a woman from Minnesota called Sharon and I started talking, then an older woman called Lindsay from Aberdeen joined in, finally a woman from Holland came to the party too. We stood out there for a good 4 hours talking haha. I love it. We're all off on our adventures. Lindsay gave me her mobile number so I'll meet up with her and grab lunch or something one day.

    The ferry was a bit rough for the first half of the journey, with the front having sizeable ups and downs causing some sickness for people. I've been fine though thankfully. Someones barf was all over the railing!
    The ferry gets into Kirkwall around 11pm, then I have the journey to Stromness for my midnight tent pitch haha. I hope the rain stays off!    Read more

  • Gayle BlackieTravelerOrkney 2024

    Day 2 - Stromness and Scapa Beach

    July 12, 2024 in Scotland ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    I decided my first day on Orkney would be a relaxed day just dotting around wherever to the east / south east.
    I started off at Ness Battery, but I didn't realise it was by booked guided tour only. So I didn't see much! Lol. I did have a chat with an Orcadian golfer though who told me about local sea life and renewable wave energy being invested in.
    Everyone is so friendly and chatty on the trip! I'm only 20 hours in and I've blethered to lots of people. I even stopped and had a yap with an older cyclist who was camping 2 tents over from me. He's up from Southport on the train with his bicycle. Spending a few days cycling around, especially keen to see the dig site that's shutting down soon, then he's head away home again. Absolutely brilliant!
    I rode a wee it on the bike, but nothing major. I headed to Scapa Beach and had some lunch. There is always some drizzle not far away and it's not really making me enthusiastic to go off on a big adventure. I'm fine with that though, because this is a chilled holiday.
    I worked my way through Finstown and back to the campsite. I've spotted a food van in Finstown I want to try out one day.
    Once back to the tent I chilled a little then got changed and went for a wander into Stromness to take some photos and get my tea. It's such a cute little town! The Chinese food I bought cost me £12.10 for chicken and blackbean with fried rice... Jeezy peeps! Thats only £8 something in Forfar.
    Once back to the tent again I ate my food and that was me for the night. There was a fog and drizzle tonight so not very pleasant.
    Poor guy on the bicycle was getting shouted at by some English woman in a tent for making noise at 10:40pm 😄.    Read more

  • Gayle BlackieTravelerOrkney 2024

    Day 3 - Birsay

    July 12, 2024 in Scotland ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

    I never planned for a lot today because a chunk of time would be taken up switching from Point of Ness campsite up to Birsay campsite. I just took it easy, packed up and headed to Finstown for a bacon egg roll and hot chocolate. It went down very well, but my word it was a bit chilly! I could hardly see the view due to my watery eyes in the wind 😄. Lovely bacon and egg roll though.
    From here I headed over to Birsay and sat at the beach there for a bit... Mostly just wasting time until I could set up my tent at the campsite.
    I saw that old tractor from last year, the one that as all rotten and looked like an abandoned relic... But actually still runs! Lol. There was a wee Fergie in the beach too, whose owner eventually came back in his boat after checking his creels for lobsters (I assume).
    Eventually I headed off to the campsite and set up for my 9 night stay. Birsay campsite isn't as nice as Point of Ness. The toilet block anx facilities aren't as good, but still good enough. I can still get a shower and charge my power bank up. There's a fridge too! Win.
    The small tent area here has bushes all around it, so will definitely calm the wind down. If the wind drops anyway, I'm not sure how the midgies will be 😄
    I had some food then went for a walk to the beach at the end of the road. I tried to photograph rabbits, and I kept seeing a bonxie flying around. I later discovered it in the field up the road with a friend who had a damaged wing. Hopefully it gets food for the other one.    Read more

  • Gayle BlackieTravelerOrkney 2024

    Day 4 - Mull Head

    July 14, 2024 in Scotland ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

    This morning was more dreich weather so I spent a bit of it reading about Orkney and planning ferries. Lots of ferries are booked up! It wasn't like this last year in August. It seems I will have to get to Kirkwall mega early to get into a ferry not fully booked. That'll be right! 😄
    After some head scratching, I booked 3 ferries trips:
    1) Tomorrow (Monday) I go to Stronsay. Leaving Kirkwall at 11:15 with the return ferry is 18:15. This was £28.10 for myself and the motorbike.
    2) Tuesday I go to Hoy. Leaving Houton at 13:00 and returning Thursday on a ferry at 12:30. This was £16.30.
    3) Sunday I go to Westray. Leaving Kirkwall at 9:20 (ouch) and the return ferry leaves at 18:00. This was £28.10.
    I didn't manage to figure out a ferry to Sanday without leaving at 7am lol, so that'll be for another trip.

    I headed off after 1 to start my day. My first stop was the food van in Finsport for a couple of bacon rolls and a hot chocolate. This can't become a thing surely? I can't afford it to become a thing 😄. £10 for lunch!
    After I munched I headed to Deerness (pronounced dirness) and I walked around Mull head nature reserve (pronounced mool head). I wanted to do this last year but just didn't have the time.

    I chatted to the warden this morning and he needed payment for the campsite again, which surprised me because I'd already paid in full and I didn't get a refund after I had to get my campsite location changed. So I've emailed Pam at Orkney Island Council to see if I was meant to have had a refund. It's been over a week so I'm surprised it hasn't transfered yet if so.    Read more

  • Gayle BlackieTravelerOrkney 2024

    Day 5 - Stronsay

    July 15, 2024 in Scotland ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

    The ferry left at 11:15, arriving into Whitehall on Stronsay at 12:55.
    I didn't have a huge amount of time here, with my return ferry due around 6pm... So I could only see a few things.
    My first stop was to St Catherine's beach. I didn't regret this decision, but wow that wee road down was not suitable for semi sports bikes lol. Bad enough going down, but coming back up I had an eye bulging moment or 2! Nevermind, I manage to get back to the main road in one piece, and I headed to Vat of Kirbuster. This is another area withs dramatic cliffs. The main highlight is a gloup / arch, which is some size! I wish I had longer to walk further here, but alas I could only dedicate a short time to a walk here.
    By this point it was already 3:30pm.
    Next I went to Sands Of Rothiesholm, which is a lovely stretch of white beach. I've been hoping to see seals, but couldn't see them here.
    Next I took a slow ride back to Whitehall to wait for the ferry. I got there around 5:15pm.
    The ferry was called Earl Sigurd, but it didn't have outdoor seating, which is unusual for a ferry.
    I bought a chippy in Kirkwall and rode back the 25 minute trip to Birsay... And it was still warm! Happy days.    Read more

  • Gayle BlackieTravelerOrkney 2024

    Day 6 - Hoy

    July 16, 2024 in Scotland ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    Today I woke up with the most painful back. Like scared to move twinge pain. Something is going wrong with my sleeping position. I'm glad I have 2 nights in Rackwick Hostel now... A proper bed. Well a bunk bed lol.
    I went to have a shower but the water wasn't right, a really slow flow, so no shower. It had been raining through the night, like proper rain, not this drizzly stuff... So I'm not sure if that played its part.
    So I fried up some sausages for breakfast and waited an eternity to wash my pot and plate due to 2 children taking months to wash a few things in front of me.

    Eventually I was packed and heading off to catch my 12:15 ferry from Houton to Lyness. There's 2 ferries that go to Hoy, but the other is foot passengers only.
    I love Hoy.
    On arrival I headed off a direction I didn't explore last time and went to see Martello Tower at Hackness. This tower, along with another tower at Crockness, at the other side of the inlet, had a canon on top and was defence against American invasionin the early 1800s. During Americas War of Independence. I must look up how many "war of independence" there was against England / Britain. These are the only defense towers from this era still standing in the UK.

    From here I made my way the Rackwick direction. I stopped to see Betty's grave, I don't think I could ever drive past it. A tragic story about a women who got pregnant by a lad while not married. He didn't stay and do the honourable thing, instead he left the island for a life working at sea. Betty was the scourge of the area. Everyone was against her and her pregnancy. It was all too much and she twice tried to kill herself, the 2nd time she was successful. Well now there was another problem because she couldn't be buried along with everyone else or on their land because she killed herself. She ended up in an unmarked grave at the boundary of the parishes. She was accidentally dug up several times over the decades, with soldiers eventually putting a stone slab over her grave to mark the area. Many years after there was a push to get Betty a gravestone, and people came together and bought her the one that still stands there today.
    Betty could finally rest in peace.
    Sad.

    Next I took the turning to the bumpy single track road that takes me to Rackwick. This road gives me the fear because last year I got a flat tyre riding it!
    I made a stop to see the 5000 year old Dwarfie Stane. This is a a cool little spot with a huge stone that has a hollow dug into it and 2 small sections to each side. The whole entrance is about the height of my legs, so getting in did result in me banging my head. I wonder how many others have banged their head here lol.
    Pretty cool though! Lovely views too.

    Finally I travelled on to Rackwick. This is such an incredible place. Cute little scattered cottages set in a dramatic cliff sided inlet.
    I got set up in the Rackwick Hostel, discovering that I was the only one there. I thought it was fully booked! Not sure what's going on lol. I was surprised to see signs telling people to boil their water before use... Had I known I'd have taken my collapsible container.
    I brought chicken with me, but because I left Birsay at 12:30 and it was now the back of 5pm, the chicken had a funky smell. I've cooked worse though and made my tea anyway.
    So I don't know which of these 2 did it, but something gave me a dodgy stomach! Lol. Now I don't know if I can trust my chicken for tomorrows tea or not, as it was meant to do 2 meals.
    Also, I forgot Hoy doesn't have a petrol station, so I can't just whiz to the shop at the other end of the island to get food because I might run out of petrol for getting back to the main land haha. Jeezy peeps!
    I set off at 8pm for a walk to the beach. I underestimate how far the beach was lol. 3 mile round trip! I took some photos with the Dslr but I doubt they're up to much. I'll see when I get home. I also poked my head into the bothy to see what the craic was. I was surprised to find a toilet there! The both itself smelt like a museum of an old house, with that burnt fire smell. It smelt old lol. Not sure I'd want to sleep there if I'm honest.
    No midgies tonight to ruin my day, there was just enough breeze to keep them away. Rackwick is a fricken nightmare for midgies as I discovered last year. A strong contender with Skye.    Read more

  • Gayle BlackieTravelerOrkney 2024

    Day 7 - Old Man Of Hoy

    July 17, 2024 in Scotland ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    I had the full day to enjoy Rackwick so I decided to spend it at the Old Man Of Hoy. Last year I didn't manage to do this walk because I had such a tight itinerary to follow, so I'm really happy to have the chance now.
    It was a bit of a grey start to the day, so I had a shower and pottered about waiting on my hair drying. I was orrwarned the hostel would lose power between 10 and 4, then 2 guys came in to check the fire alarms. So it was a good day to disappear for a few hours lol.
    I set off around 11:30, stopping into the old school, the house that was built in a day, and the craa's nest. I can't explain how chuffed I was to find The House that was Built in a Day lol, hardly anyone here seems to know about it, but it's such an intriguing story. The story goes that around 1850 a newly married couple had a house built in a single day by the local community in order to save them having to pay tax. Now I'm not sure what the tax part is about, but I'm wondering if it's like a rule that some parts of the UK had back then, where if you build a house on common land between dusk and dawn, which has a front door and fire burning by the time dawn comes... You don't have to purchase the land plot, it just becomes yours. This makes more sense than tax? There's not enough information to know for sure. It is just a small 1 room house, but it must have taken some pre-planning and gathering of resources to get ready for the build. What a view too! An amazing start to their life together. Such a lovely story, I don't know why it isn't better known and on the maps.

    I kept walking... A lugging up the hill, taking photos, more walking. Eventually the path levelled off a bit and the cliffs came to view, with the top of the old man finally in sight. With all my faffing and exploring, it took me 2 hours and 35 minutes to get to the sea stack. It's a 2.5mile walk a think, so I'm mega fast as usual 😄. What a view though! The cliffs in that area are fricken huge! St John's Head further up the hill has some of the tallest cliffs in the UK. Old Man Of Hoy is Britain's tallest sea stack at 135m. I was quickly alerted to 2 climbers making their way up the stack, at around 1/3 up. There was a lad called Callum from Caithness taking video and photos for the climbers who had made the trip from Manchester to do it. I hung out there for ages. Chilling and yapping a bit to Callum. As I was preparing to leave, it was becoming clear the climbers were going to give up, with time getting away from them. They'd already been climbing it for 5 hours and at this point they were probably half way up time wise (as the upper section looked easier). The guy with the white helmet was an expert at rock climbing, and the blue helmet guy was less experienced. Because there was 2 of them, the white guy would go first, free climbing and setting things up... Then the blue guy would follow him up, using his ropes for help... Unfortunately this meant it was taking twice as long. Had it just been the white guy, I'm sure he'd have gotten up there no bother in a day. As I said my goodbyes and started walking away, I could see them starting to absail down again. Sad for them, as so much prep must have gone into this.
    I left around 5pm after chilling there for nearly 3 hours haha. Some minor faffing on the return walk and I was back in the hostel for 6:15ish.
    The rest of the night was making food and chilling. I put the heater on tonight as last night was pretty chilly! I'll use some of that £132 it cost me up. Still on my own too, very unexpected.    Read more

  • Gayle BlackieTravelerOrkney 2024

    Day 8 - Marwick Head

    July 18, 2024 in Scotland ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    I had to leave Hoy today and head back to the mainland on a lunchtime ferry. I took a quick ride out to the West road, which goes past the Rackwick junction, just to see what was craic was. Not a lot really; a wee cafe and viewpoint by the other walking passenger ferry terminal. I went back to Lyness after that, stopping at the Scapa flow museum for a bacon roll. Once back to the mainland I got some petrol and headed back to the tent to u load my gear. By this point it was 3pm so I headed to Marwick Head to hang a bit for the rest of the afternoon. Thankfully this place is only 2 miles from the campsite!
    I didn't see a lot at Marwick Head. This is a common theme for many places o go visit, not as much bird life as I'd hope for. There was a few puffins, but not much.. And too far away to get much of a photo.
    There was soooooo many rabbits though! Got heaps of photos of them. Mega cute. Black ones and creamy coloured ones too.    Read more

  • Gayle BlackieTravelerOrkney 2024

    Day 9 - Brough of Birsay

    July 19, 2024 in Scotland ⋅ 🌬 19 °C

    Today I decided to walk around this nearby Brough Of Birsay, which is the island that you can only walk to when the tide is down. Once I arrived at the Carpark I noticed people still weren't really crossing. I got myself ready and headed down. A couple stood looking at the submerged part of the path, not wanting to cross, so I just came marching past, right in there.. Splosh splosh splosh. The guy says to me "someone trusts their boots", and I said back "nope! But I'll soon find out" 😄. Once over and 10 or so steps beyond, I shout back with a thumbs up "so far so good" 😄.
    The whole walk around the island took me about 2 hours. I was stopping a lot and hung out a fair bit at one place in particular, where I was level with a family of 3 puffins who kept coming and going. There was another few puffins here and there, maybe 13 in the water... More near the end in a group of around 7 to 10 sleeping one ledges... But I think I was expecting more. I'm so used to what the NE mainland had to offer, that I expect kroe on Orkney. I see better photos coming from Bullers of Buchan, And don't get me started on isle of may! Lol. It was a nice walk though, locally cliff edges and some birds and puffins in the mix.
    The day was still young, so I go changed at the tent again then decided to ride to the complete other end of the mainland... Burwick. It was a nice day and a nice run.. Crossing Churchills barriers and past the Italian Chapel. I came back and had a run through St Mary's Hope, which is such a lovely little village. Buildings with slipways into the water like Stromness has. After that I headed to Sands of Wright. The toilet is handy there, and I went to the beach for 5 minutes before headed off again. There was at least 7 caravans parked up there! And campervans. Meanwhile the campsite I'm at is not even half full. Orkney needs £5 a night wildcamping honesty boxes.
    I rode back to Kirkwall (saw a massive cruisliner docked) and got myself some fish and chips from the chippy near the harbour again. It was my birthday today so felt like I'd earned a chippy lol.
    I got back to the campsite a bit later, and to my surprise a familiar face walked by.
    It was the Dutch woman from the ferry! And her and her daughter were the tent right next to mines! Funny as!
    So we all had a chat before the rain came on and we retreated to our tents.    Read more

  • Gayle BlackieTravelerOrkney 2024

    Day 10 - Scara Brae

    July 20, 2024 in Scotland ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    I wasn't planning to do a lot today, so I just headed to a few nearby locations.
    First was HMS Twatt. There isn't much in the way of Twatt signage, and this was no exception. I don't know much about the history of the base, but there's still lots of buildings left in various states of ruin. There's a watch tower I walked around, ignoring my own personal safety by climbing up stairs that don't exist anymore... With some 20 foot drop below me! Easier up than down haha.
    Next was Scara Brae. I think a tour would have made this better but I was a little underwhelmed. It cost £12.50 entry and you could only look at it from the path around the perimeter. I believe you get guided tours in the evening with more access, but this wasn't the case for me. I initially grudged the entry fee, but then I thought to myself... Most places on Orkney are free to enter, so why grudge one of the few that charge. I doubt I'll return there, but glad I've seen it once.
    Next I went to Yesnaby. I walked here last year, taking the south path that time... This time I went north. There was a stack and a ruined Broch along this route. I hung out briefly then headed back again.
    I keep bumping my head on this trip! I did it again ay the Broch. Did it in a few other places like Dwarfie Stane. Surprised I've not got a skinned, bald patch!
    It was tea time by now so I went to Stromness for co-op cheap meal deals! Which I love. Pasta, snack and bigger red bull for £4... Bargain lol. I also got petrol and Chinese food then back to the tent to eat it (the dryest chowmein ever).
    I chatted to the Dutch pair some more tonight until the rain once again had us retreat to our tents. There's a new couple in the first pitch now... 2 women from France who are here to bird watch. We all yapped a bit and I showed them my short eared owl video, pointing to where I saw it.    Read more

  • Gayle BlackieTravelerOrkney 2024

    Day 11 - Westray

    July 21, 2024 in Scotland ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    Today I take a morning ferry over to Westray. The ferry took around an hour and a half, and got me into Westray for 11.
    First stop was Castle Burrian where I got a healthy dose of Puffins! Castle in this case, is a wide sea stack, not a ruined building lol. The sea stack (tiny island? Lol) was home to many puffins. I hung there for a good hour and a half just chilling with everything going on around me. A long reach lens is really needed here, but some Puffins did come a bit closer on the outer land area and some nice photos could be had.
    Next I went to Pierowall at the other end of Westray. What a cute wee place! It has a lovely beach too. This is near the airport and where the ferry to Papa Westray leaves from.
    Next stopped at Noltland Castle, which was worth a 20 minute stop. Lots of access and twisty stairs to climb.
    Next I tried to venture to Noup Head but the road in beat me and I couldn't be bothered walking the route haha. Once I got to the vicinity and the road went track, it started OK. It was a small climb with manageable gravel mostly smaller with some bigger bits in the mix. However, once I rode over a cattle grid a bit of the way up, it quickly became harder for the bike. It was quite steep and the size of the stones got much bigger. My tyres were slipping off rocks and bumping around and I immediately stopped in my tracks, realising I'd made a mistake. If I drop the bike on a brae that steep, it'd be a hell of a job getting it upright again. In all honesty, I became quite alarmed at my predicament. A vehicle came down as I was getting off my bike and he reckoned I could get up fine, just ca canny... I wasn't convinced lol. I took my gear off and set about trying to turn the bike around. I managed it but it was a bit of a task. Then I had to get on the bike while it was pointing down a steep road, and I immediately had a dodgy cattle grid to cross over at an angle and more dodgy road going the opposite direction beyond... It had to build up my nerves to go for it lol. Thankfully it went fine and I got out of that area. Man what a task! Never again lol.
    After this I went to see the natural arch up near the airport. What unusual rocks by the arch, it's like a pile of dark slates. You kind of had to go past the arch to find it behind you, and when I saw it for the first time it actually got a WOW out of me! Very impressive sight. Glad I went to see it, it made up for Noup Head.
    After this I went back to the puffins at a Castle Burrian with car food to give some feral kittens that were in the ruined building by the car park. Mega cute!
    Then it was back to the ferry for the mainland.
    I'm the upper saloon we were treated to love music by some of the locals. It was so lovely! Really lovely to experience and be there.    Read more

  • Gayle BlackieTravelerOrkney 2024

    Day 12 - Last day then home

    July 22, 2024 in Scotland ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    I wasn't in a big hurry this morning to pack up. I wasn't honestly sure what to do today. It feels like the ferries are back to front and I'd rather arrive at 7am in Orkney at the start, then return at 11pm in Aberdeen at the end. Now I'm passing a lot of time until the ferry home.
    I rode to Kirkwall for no real reason lol, then I rode to Stromness for equally as little reason. I got a hot chocolate to warm me up as the day started a bit cool.
    I decided to head to Yesnaby and go for a walk. I'm pretty sure I did this on my last day last year too!
    I chilled out by the sea stack for a bit then walked back to the bike. I decided to get a chippy in Stromness from the Chinese, got there and forgot they take cash only haha. So I headed to Kirkwall and went to the Happy Haddock.
    I got a text message from Lindsay a few hours ago so by now we'd agreed to meet up a little in Kirkwall before my ferry comes.    Read more

    Trip end
    July 23, 2024
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