• JJ Weeks
juin – sept. 2023

An Afternoon Stroll

A walk. En savoir plus
  • Début du voyage
    9 juin 2023

    Bath

    10 juin 2023, Angleterre ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    It's kinda funny, I thought I'd have more to say before an adventure of this scale. And I do have a hell of a lot I could say; I've had a whole host of conflicting feelings leading up to this. But for simplicity, I won't write about any of that. There's plenty of time for soul searching.

    Anyhow, it's been a funny old end to 4 years in this city. And it only took a mere step out of the front door until confronted with the first controversy of the trip, with us all managing to get locked out of our own house (less of a problem for me albeit) with the door slamming violently to a close after we'd all piled into the front garden for a photo (that'll teach you not to quadruple lock the bloody door Anj). Following some acrobatics via the neighbours to get back in, Anj then waved us off as John and I made haste for Bath Abbey, where a dramatic performance, seen through the giant gaping doors, was drawing to its finale. The photos you see are the painful attempts of me trying to get a picture without drawing attention from the emerging floods of people, haha. In fact, a little under 3 years ago, I stood at the pictured marker, the start point of the 102-mile Cotswold way before attempting my first ever long-distance hike. 1065 days later, I stood there again, this time alone*, facing in the opposite direction and with over 20 times the distance between myself and an aimed destination. Regardless of how far this trip may take me, I've got to say its kinda crazy the different pathways life will take you and I think that's pretty fucking cool. Anyway, with that, we made our final attack on Bathwick Hill, taking our sweet time to sit and soak in the sunset on the ascent. At the top: our destination for the evening: the Library! 🤓 Laugh as you may, I wouldn't have it any other way personally. Ending the university years by doing something just a bit ridiculous with as close a friend as John is exactly the way I'd have it and exactly the right tone to set for the forthcoming adventure :)

    *Edit: not alone, I had John with me
    En savoir plus

  • Bourton

    10 juin 2023, Angleterre ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C

    Day 1 Stats (Total):
    Distance: 49.33 km (54.02 km)
    Steps: 70,626 (77,774)
    Move time: 11h33 (12h43)
    Spend: £0 (£0)

    Well, that was a frantic first day. My thoughts are very scattered, but one thing that I'm yet to work out is how to explain what it is exactly I'm actually aiming to do, to strangers who are quite rightly curious. One dude earlier asked where it was I was heading and I could find him no other explanation than 'to Bournemouth', he raised his eyebrows and said 'wow that really is a long way,' to which I could do nothing but nervously chuckle. Maybe I just can't bring myself to think of all that distance, or maybe because I'm not sure I really believe in myself enough that'll I'll get anywhere close. Anyway, once I'd finally found a place to pitch, I met possibly some of the friendliest people I've met while hiking at all, Claire and Neil, who quickly unravelled my half truths and taught me exactly why I should share my true objective, reacting with real interest and support.

    As for the hiking, what can I say about that? Some easy miles, some less easy ones. I find, even as someone who is usually very stable, my mood can be so changeable while hiking like this, so that's something to manage. Either way, it's going to take a little time to get into the rhythm of this life.
    En savoir plus

  • Blandford Forum

    11 juin 2023, Angleterre ⋅ 🌧 22 °C

    Day 2 Stats (Total):
    Distance: 35.66 km (89.68 km)
    Steps: 51,055 (128,829)
    Move time: 8h17 (21h00)
    Spend: £4.10 (£4.10)

    I remember as a little kid, being able to go and throw sticks in the local river for our then-dog Balloo to fetch was one of the best adventures life had to offer. Many, many years later, I came to notice the bright blue waymarkers that had been installed along that very same stretch of river: 'the Stour Valley Way' they read. And so naturally, having done my fair share of hiking, I was immediately intrigued. After all, how many people get to enjoy the wonders of a long-distance path passing so close to their house? Today however was a day of two halves; the first of those halves was spent walking along that path, and my god, if the farmers along it aren't praying for your downfall, then the nettles definitely are. So, in short, I wouldn't recommend the Stour Valley Way. Rather, beyond Sturminster Marshall, I managed to hop onto and cruise along the North Dorset Trailway; an esteemed cycle path with trails so flat and smooth that they might just qualify as the autobahn for the hiking elite. Actually originating as the former Dorset-Somerset joint railway, the path took me to Blandford Forum, where I'm pitched in a tiny clearing in what was, otherwise a fairly uneventful day really.En savoir plus

  • Bournemouth

    12 juin 2023, Angleterre ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    Day 3 Stats (Total):
    Distance: 31.01 km (120.69 km)
    Steps: 44,704 (173,533)
    Move time: 7h21 (28h21)
    Spend: £3.00 (£7.10)

    Homecoming.

    Today, I walked home. I used to walk home a lot, but as of late, that seems to be decreasingly often and from increasingly far away. My last time doing so, after completing the coast path a year ago felt like something of a victory, but this time carried a very different feeling, maybe one best described by anticipation. Nonetheless, I was always going to include Bournemouth into this adventure; an adventure I consider strongly to be about identity and staying true to oneself.

    And thanks to Mum and Dad for their unbelievable support btw!
    En savoir plus

  • New Forest

    13 juin 2023, Angleterre ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C

    Day 4 Stats (Total):
    Distance: 30.75 km (151.31 km)
    Steps: 43,823 (217,356)
    Move time: 6h56
    Spend: £0.00 (£7.10)

    Bournemouth to The New Forest

    No, this isn't a photoshoot for @BUMC's biggest power couple, this is still a blog of one man's walk. But today, and oddly last night to meet my parents (the strangest crossover episode since The Simpsons and Family Guy), Ben and Ellie came out to join me across England's newest national park. They must have been questioning their decision to do so early in the day however, as I first dragged them along narrow, turbulent 40mph roads, followed by a thick jungle of overgrown passages. But before long, we emerged onto some more conventional hiking paths, where, despite Ben's best attempts at covering the entirety of The New Forest in a glistening layer of his hayfever-induced mucus, moaning, and nearly losing his sacred trail runners to the mud, we made it to a shady lunch spot. It was here that Ben discovered the wonders of my water filter, and immediately took to guzzling putrid river water with almost alarming eagerness. We then took to some classic forested and moorland sections under beating Hampshire sun, until clocking in with a punchy 30 km for the day. (Then Ben burnt a hole in Ellie's hat)En savoir plus

  • Southampton

    14 juin 2023, Angleterre ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C

    Day 5 Stats (Total):
    Distance: 31.78 km (183.09 km)
    Steps: 44,797 (262,153)
    Move time: 7h3 (42h20)
    Spend: £14.75 (£21.85)

    After emerging from our tents, Ben, Ellie and I took a dawdle to complete our mission across the New Forest, where we celebrated by getting sloshed at the Anchor, fulfilling Ben's insatiable desire for chips (cheesy chips btw) in the process. Following an obligatory pilgrimage to the golden arches of a McDonalds, Ben & Ellie then said their farewells after a highly enjoyable visit and left me to attack the industrial sprawl of Southampton alone. Shortly after, I found my way to Scott's, where I was dazzled by a tour of his crib and treated not only to the monster munch mug, but also a generous portion of pasta while we had a very fun catch up. Finally, after another urban march, I made my way to Charlie's. And my lord, have I been treated here, with steak, a bed for the night, and the hospitality even a king doesn't deserve (minus the losing at FIFA bit). What an absolute legend btw.

    Huge thanks to Ben & Ellie for joining me and the unreal welcoming from Scott and Charlie!
    En savoir plus

  • Old Winchester Hill

    15 juin 2023, Angleterre ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

    Day 6 Stats (Total):
    Distance: 31.02 km (214.11 km)
    Steps: 44,555 (306,708)
    Move time: 7h9 (49h29)
    Spend: £2.30 (£24.15)

    Witnessing Charlie take a 6am ice bath was exactly the right way to kick off day 6 of this little adventure (and the way everyone's day should start really), the drive of this man is infectious (even if he does have a huge nose). And after he whipped us up the finest English muffins known to man, I found myself back on the road, this time in the direction of Botley Station, where I had the absolute pleasure of being joined by Ollie for the day. As perhaps may become tradition, I welcomed him to the trek by taking him through thickets of overgrown nettles, which spewed us delightfully out right into the belly of a farmers' courtyard. Luckily enough though, our farming overlord was a forgiving one, and directed us out of their property and back on our way. Despite arguing about how to pronounce quite literally every place name en route, and Ollie enlightening me that the South Downs is actually England's newest national park (and not The New Forest as I stated in a previous post), we made brisk progress, stopping only for tea in Bishop's Waltham and some homebaked chocolate cornflake cakes in a drowsy field. Our voyage then came to its close as Ollie saw me onto the South Downs way, himself continuing on to West Meon. Again, thanks to Ollie for joining me out here!En savoir plus

  • Cocking

    16 juin 2023, Angleterre ⋅ ⛅ 26 °C

    Day 7 Stats:
    Distance: 35.49 km (249.60 km)
    Steps: 50,975 (357,683),
    Move time: 8h6 (57h35)
    Spend: £0.00 (£24.15)

    Old Winchester Hill to Cocking.

    I might be a mere 7 days into this adventure, but I'm not sure I have feet any more, so much as tender slabs of meat that pound the earth in regular intervals. Or, in their current state, pound the chalky escarpment that continues to undulate towards the iconic coastal Sussex cliffs. I had been enjoying the company the past few days, but today I was back on my lonesome, and that means one thing; only kilometres for breakfast, miles for lunch, and astronomical units for dinner. Ok, that last one might be a bit dramatic, but until about 2 pm today, I'd only walked about 12 km, so it just goes to show that progress is never linear. And on that note, I'm probably overdue saying something a bit nonsensey and 'profound' so read this in your best Brian Cox staring-in-the-middle-distance voice. Some early lessons week one has taught me:
    1) Don't try and be a hero.
    2) Consistency is key.
    3) Don't count the blisters.
    4) You can't put a price on good people.
    5) You are never, ever too good for anything, or anyone.
    6) Take it one step at a time, literally. (One foot in front of a-Cocking-nother)
    En savoir plus

  • Rackham Hill

    17 juin 2023, Angleterre ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    Day 8 Stats:
    Distance: 20.69 km (270.29 km)
    Steps: 29,981 (387,666)
    Move time: 5h01 (62h36)
    Spend £18.95 (£43.10)

    'Consistency is key' blah blah yeah whatever, shut up, me. For real, though, today was short but very sweet, being treated to some normal person food with my parents on Father's Day weekend, and spending a few hours away from the trek was a welcome change. Before I could put my feet up for too long, though, I was dumped back on the stoney eastward highway where I came to develop my new favourite pastime, saying hello to the red-faced ultramarathon runners in the humid afternoon air. Anyway, talking of stones, I was joined by a big and beautiful one at Amberley Station. Thomas made the delightful journey out to join me, and we immediately reunited over my second pub meal of the day. With dark clouds looming and lights quickly dying, though, we were forced into a spritely uphill endeavour towards the trees of Rackham Hill, which will serve as our home for the night.En savoir plus

  • Blackcap

    18 juin 2023, Angleterre ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

    Day 9 Stats:
    Distance: 38.71 km (309.00 km)
    Steps: 54,724 (442,390)
    Move time: 8h26 (71h02)
    Spend: £0.00 (£43.10)

    Last night was definitely up there with the most tense I've ever felt during a wild camp. Thomas definitely chose an interesting one to join me for. The first sign of unease came with a disturbing distant scream from some flailing creature in the silent black of night. Clearly dragged by a relentless predator, and with its every struggle, the snapping of twigs and violent rustling of leaves became ever louder as it was hauled alarmingly ever closer to our tent. But even the screams quickly became drowned out by the much more real concern. Up until now, evading the weather warnings has very much been a game of smoke and mirrors, but low and behold just as we had camped on the protruding escarpment, a dark, heavy storm rolls in, hurling lashings of rain from above. Perhaps more concerningly, however, was the lightning. Sharp cracks of thunder reverberated with unsettling volume and proximity, resonating through the ground and up into my body with power like I've never felt before and continuing for several hours. Inevitably though, Thomas forgot to bring his foil suit and so we survived the night and enjoyed a productive day hurdling the South Downs hills, surpassing all sorts of settlements in our stride, most notably including Brighton. Sadly (and with few notable catastrophes considering our track record together), Thomas then had to make his exit; his parting gift some Cadbury treats, and his parting mission to navigate an A-road to Hassocks (due to looking at orchids in the most Thomas way imaginable). Plenty of soggy shuffling from me later, and I'm calling it a day at Blackcap. Many, many thanks to the legendary Thomas for his company. I hope this isn't the last that this trip sees of you!En savoir plus

  • Beachy Head

    19 juin 2023, Angleterre ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    Distance: 42.77 km (351.77 km)
    Steps: 61,125 (503,515)
    Move time: 9h39 (80h41)
    Spend: £4.54 (£47.64)

    Getting in the groove. Except, easy tiger; as soon as I set foot on the seven sisters cliffs, my phone showed it was apparently more keen to get to the continent than even me, not only switching to the French internet provider at every opportunity, but also even convinced that I needed to see the French timezone on my lock screen. Mind you, lumbering up the cliffs did make me feel like I was already living a French lifestyle (i.e. wheezing to the point that it felt like I'd had a pack of cigarettes for lunch.) After a late finish though, it's time for bed, and it's the first time I'll be sleeping with seven sisters so that's cool (hey, I'll try anything once.)En savoir plus

  • Fairlight

    20 juin 2023, Angleterre ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    Day 11:
    Distance: 42.20 km (393.97km)
    Steps: 59,917 (563,433)
    Move time: 9h28 (90h09)
    Spend: £22.78 (£72.42)

    Y'know, at about 8 pm, I had exactly how today's post would go already written out in my head; something along the lines of 'Some days everything just comes together. The walking feels easy, you get to see a part of the world you've not explored before, and there's even time to get drunk.' But obviously, life never is that easy, and with the golden light ebbing away beneath the horizon, I still hadn't found a place to pitch up for the night. I had been eyeing up Hastings Country Park on the map, but upon ascending to its entrance, I saw its strict byelaws on wildcamping. Now, in reality, I'd probably have been fine, but personally, I'm still even now cautious about where I choose to call home for the night. And so, I pushed on in spite of numbing foot pain until after dark where I've settled for a spot just beyond Fairlight. With a trip like this, and like anything in life, the only inevitability is that things will always go at least a bit wrong, and every single day. It's never about how many times you fall, but always about how many times you pick yourself back up. Every day without failure, I have periods of undeniable determination where I'm convinced I'll make it the entire way, and other periods in the very same day where I feel I can barely take a single step more (and it's only day 11!). But it's pushing your limits and proving yourself wrong that's part of the addiction.En savoir plus

  • Hamstreet

    21 juin 2023, Angleterre ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    Day 12:
    Distance: 32.44 km (426.41 km)
    Steps: 46,824 (610,257)
    Move time: 7h40 (97h49)
    Spend: £2.45 (£74.87)

    Fairlight to Hamstreet.

    What do I remember of today? Other than clambering over a barbed wire fence over a river with Ne-Yo blaring in my ears, it'd probably have to be exploring the medieval towns of Winchelsea, once known for its wine trade evidenced by its countless cellars, and Rye, once known presumably for being something other than a cereal grain. Oh, and I'm in Kent now, so that's cool. I am pretty whacked though so goodnight England (and soon to be goodbye England.)En savoir plus

  • Folkestone

    22 juin 2023, Angleterre ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    Day 13 (& Day 14: Rest day)
    Distance: 24.83 km (451.24 km)
    Steps: 35,272 (645,529)
    Move time: 5h33 (103h22)
    Spend: £13.24+£116.52 (£203.63)

    Thursday feels like a whole world ago already. It's strange to remember that seeing my own face in the mirror of an ALDI toilet must have been my first time doing so in actual days, and yet it was literally just yesterday. I already do miss being back on the road, but this time will be different to anything before; met with, honestly, nerves as well as excitement; soon to be gone are the comforts of old blighty: the visits from friends, the wetherspoons, and the explaining of what the hell you're even doing in your own mother tongue. Hell, even the familiarity of passing your average tracksuit-cladden British teen yob, spitting in the street. Anyway, more importantly, I can not understate the enormity of my thanks to Alan and Joanna for their unbelievable kindness and welcoming in having me here, despite never even having met me. It goes such a long way to have had the chance to wash, plan, and reset before heading off onto bigger adventures. Kindnesses like this are those which I will never forget. I also just wanted to say thanks to anyone who has supported me for this first leg of the journey, whether it be by coming out to join me, donating to the fundraiser, or even having shown an interest and read one or two of these posts, you are all legends and I honestly could not appreciate it more:)En savoir plus

  • Oye-Plage

    24 juin 2023, France ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    Day 15:
    Distance: 34.05 km (485.29 km)
    Steps: 48,787 (694,316)
    Move time: 7h43 (111h05)
    Spend: £0.00 (£203.65)

    How do you sum up a day like today? Perhaps one of the most defining days of the trip, as I placed my maiden footprint on continental Europe. And it really was the sort of day you dream of when you set out on an adventure like this. It had everything; the coastal cliff scenery at Dover, the logistics of navigating the Ferry terminal, meeting a fascinating stranger (I met an incredible Dutch lady, also an author, and as the only other obvious hiker as a ferry footpassenger, it turned out she was just starting on another hiking epic of walking from Canterbury to Rome, having also hiked all over Japan and Europe before), some sketchiness around Calais, a change in culture and landscape (perhaps the most startling difference in France is the lack of hedgerows, they just don't have them like we do, and so when it's flat, boy is it FLAT. You can see for absolute miles, so that'll be fun to try and discretely wildcamp in), an even the unexpected kindness of a stranger (the unbelievably generous campsite owner here let me stay for absolutely free and even gave me a coin to be able to have a shower! Honestly, startling kindness, I'm pretty sure that just wouldn't happen in the UK.)En savoir plus

  • Wulverdinghe

    25 juin 2023, France ⋅ ☀️ 32 °C

    Day 16:
    Distance: 35.52 km (520.81 km)
    Steps: 51,055 (745,371)
    Move time: 8h06 (119h11)
    Spend: £6.01 (£209.66)

    Oye-Plage to Wulverdinghe.

    In spite of loading up on several litres of water to start the day (and quite uncharacteristically so), I found myself quickly rationing my draining supply under the sapping heat of the Pas-de-Calais sun. France practically seems to shut down on Sundays, and I barely saw another soul in any of Gravelines, Bourbourg, or Watten (today's main towns) to help replenish my supply, except in making the early morning pilgrimage to a boulongerie. Regardless, the lack of water taunted me repeatedly and at length, and just as I thought salvation was upon me with the evening appearance of a churchyard tap, it didn't work. Sometimes things just don't go your way, but equally sometimes they do. And shortly after, I found myself exchanging a 'bonsoir' with a friendly local chap. Despite his lack of English and my very limited French, he quickly clocked my situation and eagerly invited me into his house, where, amidst the chaos of his three daughters and two dogs, I was able to refill my bottles. I never even intended to head to a campsite tonight, but following perhaps the most broken (and somehow yet wholesome) conversation possibly ever, the whole family accompanied me to out to this delightfully cheap spot, where I have even been able to wash my suncream-stained shorts (and let's hope nobody steals them in the night while drying, because they are literally my only pair. Otherwise it could well be underwear all the way to Istanbul.)En savoir plus

  • Bailleul

    26 juin 2023, France ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

    Day 17:
    Distance: 42.21 km (562.42 km)
    Steps: 59,858 (805,229)
    Move time: 9h23 (128h34)
    Spend: £5.15 (£214.81)

    Wulverdinghe to Bailleul.

    Mash, mash, mash. Mash out some miles, (instant) mash in the stomach, mash head into inflatable pillow. The app I use to navigate has two different modes; the first is 'tourist' mode, which pleasantly directs you between picteresque local attractions, typically via quiet, waymarked footpaths. The other is 'fast' mode, and God does it mean it, sending you recklessly beelining towards your destination in the most direct way imaginable, and often with little regard for your safety or enjoyment. Yesterday, my route was dictated by tourist mode (if you can't tell yet, this walk is very much just the 'no plans, just pure vibes' type), but after a close inspection of the map at the end of the day, I was left underwhelmed by the ground I'd made. So, being frankly unbothered by much of the scenery for this section of the mission, I decided to dial in fast mode for the day. A flurry of busy road walking later, and I find myself exhausted in the middle of a public park in Bailleul, worryingly close to Gendarmerie Station (police to you and me). Best hope I'm awake before they are.En savoir plus

  • Lille

    27 juin 2023, France ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    Day 18 ( + Day 19: Rest Day)
    Distance: 35.28 km + 14.96 km (612.66 km)
    Steps: 51,192 + 22,299 (878,720)
    Move time: 8h23 + 4h05 (141h02)
    Spend: £20.35 + £26.06 (£261.21)

    Bailleul to Lille (to Wasquehal).

    It can be difficult to know how to start writing these entries. Sometimes, I start by just writing about what happened that day, and then I realise, what does it even matter? It's not really important what I did, just what I took from it. And well, yes, French pedestrian crossings might be entirely useless (and terrifying) for one, and, yes, I might be the only person north of the channel to so much as own a Renault Twingo. But more to the point, being able to have meaningful discussions and learn about the world through another's experiences has really been everything I've gained from Lille. Everyone has a story to tell, and unfortunately, I don't quite have the French to be able to understand those of others', nor to tell my own with any real purpose in the depths of the French campagne. But it turns out that proper conversation really is fundamental to what it means to just feel like a human (woah who'd have thought). And one thing I often get asked is 'Don't you get lonely?' Well, to be honest, I'm not really sure what the actual answer is to that, maybe sometimes? The truth is that you don't really need much. But what you do occasionally need is just to be with the right people, and in the right environment. So thanks to Patrick from Nantes and to Matteo (& Hippolyte!) for making my time in Lille. Life is nothing without people!
    En savoir plus

  • Tournai

    29 juin 2023, Belgique ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    Day 20:
    Distance: 33.67 km (646.33 km)
    Steps: 48,411 (927,131)
    Move time: 7h47 (148h49)
    Spend: £24.40 (£285.61)

    Wasquehal to Tournai.

    Now that I've crossed over the border into Belgium, I think I can safely say, "God save the King, and down with the Republic." But honestly, although I do enjoy a good stab at the French, everyone I met in Northern France was absolutely lovely, even though the terrain was truthfully a little uninspiring. But can we hear it for England by the way. In my experience, Brits are often far too quick to dismiss our own country; either it's boring, it's expensive, or it's just plain not worth an adventure, especially outside of national parks. Personally, I love hiking in middle England; terrorising golf courses, touring battered castles, and grazing the diverse nature of the English countryside will forever be my jam. There's adventure to be found everywhere in life, and that even includes the pancake flats of Hauts-de-France. Adventure is a mindset, never a place. But back to today; the journai to Tournai was honestly a very easy one, and I barely feel like I've done any walking the past 3 days at all really. I shan't complain though, this evening I've enjoyed exploring the moody, cobblestoned gothic streets of Tournai, a very picteresque city steeped in history, which has also treated me with a monster kebab and a hostel for the night.En savoir plus

  • Peruwelz

    30 juin 2023, France ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    Day 21:
    Distance: 34.86 km (681.19 km)
    Steps: 50,306 (977,437)
    Move time: 7h56 (156h45)
    Spend: £0.00 (£285.61)

    Tournai to Peruwelz.

    Since I already missed hating on it so much, I actually dipped my calloused toes back into France today, this time with one eye over my shoulder after my comments yesterday. Being beaten to death with a baguette was only second on my list of irrational concerns though, as, despite the seeming ever-present promise of rainfall from the loom of the swirling black clouds overhead, the skies have held firm pretty much all day. I don't have a whole lot else to say about today really; I feel as though my exploration has been more heavily mental than physical this afternoon, but I won't write about that here haha. Anyhow, I just wanted to say thank you so much for all the generosity that has been shown in donating to the fundraiser already, we have already raised £730! I really do appreciate it, and your donations make a whole lot of difference, not least to my motivation as well!En savoir plus

  • Mons

    1 juillet 2023, Belgique ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    Day 22:
    Distance: 32.43 km (713.62 km)
    Steps: 46,963 (1,024,400)
    Move time: 7h32 (164h17)
    Spend: £38.36 (£323.97)

    Peruwelz to Mons.

    Skies holding firm? Well, the universe clearly had other ideas. Ever since I used that phrase yesterday, I brought an inevitably soggy fate upon myself today as the rain sliced down throughout the night and continued to splatter throughout the day. When you are practically living outside, the weather can really dictate your life; there's little avoiding the fact that rain really just does make everything harder. It's all fun and games in flawless weather at the top of some pristine mountain somewhere, but when it's hurling down as you're navigating grey Belgian industrial estates, it's that which really makes you question what series of events even led you to this point in life. So I'll blame that for my lethargy. Sure as day turns to night though, I've made my way into Mons, the attractive capital of Hainaut, where after calculating the optimal price to calorie ratio of Belgian McDonalds, I took an evening meander to cool off the day.

    P.S. Oh, and the Belgians bloody love a well trimmed bush (and some good mural art too), what's up with that?
    En savoir plus

  • Charleroi

    2 juillet 2023, Belgique ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    Day 23:
    Distance: 37.44 km (751.06 km)
    Steps: 52,718 (1,076,718)
    Move time: 7h52 (172h09)
    Spend: £21.06 (£345.03)

    Mons to Charleroi.

    The most Sunday of Sundays. And by that, I mean I went for a walk, I fell asleep on a bench, and I even wandered into a church service. Other than that, there wasn't too much Sunday about today really; unless, of course, you tend to walk obsessively next to the motorway on your days off. But sometimes you just gotta do what you gotta do. And just as I thought I'd finally reached some characterful terrain with the emergence of distant hills as well, you know what they were? Slag heaps. And if that doesn't tell you everything you need to know about Belgium's 4th largest city, then I don't know what will. The approach to Charleroi was littered with the remnants of decades-old decaying industry: towering factories, capacious warehouses, and rust infested ghost towns. It was actually fascinating to observe though, even if I had no idea what it was that I was even looking at half the time. Tonight, another hostel; tomorrow, push on in the direction of Dinant.En savoir plus

  • Dinant

    3 juillet 2023, Belgique ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    Day 24:
    Distance: 44.70 km (795.76 km)
    Steps: 62,131 (1,138,849)
    Move time: 9h19 (181h28)
    Spend: £7.52 (£352.55)

    Charleroi to Dinant.

    Diversity is the dish of life. So today's route was a revelation by comparison to the motorway melee of yesterday, taking me through still forests, long tunnels, chiming churchyards, crumbling castle ruins, and most startlingly of all, hills! At long last, the flats are over. I never thought I'd be so grateful to feel that familiar burning sensation rise up through my calves, which will surely be weapons-grade by the end of this adventure. It's honestly a joy though, and the kilometres come so much easier when you're able to just enjoy yourself and forget about clocking some certain distance for the day. And the glory to top it all off; an arrival in Dinant: a destination I've wanted to see for a while now, with its pretty buildings perched on the banks of the Meuse and undercliff to a fortified citadel. Only negative in all of this: finding somewhere to sleep. Could be a fun night.En savoir plus

  • Forrières

    4 juillet 2023, Belgique ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    Day 25:
    Distance: 38.49 km (834.25 km)
    Steps: 55,220 (1,194,069)
    Move time: 8h44 (190h17)
    Spend: £19.90 (£372.12)

    Dinant to Forrières.

    Today was mentally exhausting. After failing to find somewhere to sleep and being really too tired to even move, I ended up seeing through the penumhra of night all the way to morning in full consciousness, just sat on a bench in the centre of town. When I eventually did decide to set sail for the day, I only set my sights on Rochefort. And after an agonising arboreal Ardennes amble, I did finally find my way there, only to find that the campsite I'd intended on staying in had entirely closed down! Great. I really needed a campsite to recharge my power banks (and get some bloody sleep!), so I continued on to Forrières, where I've been rewarded with some comforts. Thank you, by the way, to the friendly Belgians who have offered me lifts the past couple of days. The look of sheer bewilderment on their faces when I have to turn them down despite walking on 70 kmh roads is quite amusing I have to admit.En savoir plus

  • Gives

    5 juillet 2023, Belgique ⋅ 🌧 16 °C

    Day 26:
    Distance: 34.15 km (868.40 km)
    Steps: 48,294 (1,242,363)
    Move time: 7h37 (197h54)
    Spend: £0.00 (£372.12)

    Forrières to Gives.

    After the reset of staying in a campsite last night, I started the day with renewed enthusiasm, and undampened by the waves of torrential rain, I've since ridden the undulating Ardennes as far as Gives. Today is also the first day with an ascending elevation change of over 1000m too, or at least my maps reckon so. And this might be stating the obvious, but wow, this forest is vast; I don't think I've seen tree cover quite like it before. Meanwhile, for my final night here, Belgium has treated me to something else I'd yet to experience: a legal wildcamping spot! (that isn't the swamps of Dartmoor.) At this quiet (and free!) bivouakzone, I've had the pleasure of meeting two of Belgium's friendliest photography students, Pieter-Jan and Stan, who I enjoyed a good chat with. And that's about all for today; the day of endless forest and of endless rain. Tomorrow on the other hand: Luxembourg, oh.. and results day.😬En savoir plus