This trip has been a long time coming and finally my sister and I have made it to mum and dad’s homeland. Our heritage, language and culture.
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We left beautiful Bale and drove to Rijeka to pay for our hire car. This place is nice but so cramped and crowded. A short visit was enough. Beautiful scenery coming out of the tunnels looking into the sea. Great architecture in the town.Read more
Beautiful, gorgeous, wild and windswept Baška on the island of Krk. Stunning views, crystal clear waters, shoulder width ally ways, cafes, bars, churches and Glagolithic history. So much to see and do here. Normally we would swim. Instead we walked up rocky hills and down cobbled stone streets. Everyone is talking about the weather ! It’s inclement and most unusual for this time of year. Baška is on the south east tip of Krk and normally quite the tourist hot spot but the cool has closed bridges and sent people home.Read more
The tiny Croatian town of Legrad lies on the Drava River and borders Hungary and it’s where our mum Juliska was born and grew up. Walking around the village, learning about her family, visiting the place where her house once stood, talking to the gorgeous local women and men who remember our ancestors as well as traversing the local cemetery brought tears to our eyes. It was a moment of happiness and joy that we shared and will be indelibly etched in our memory.
There were people who remembered our mum as a beautiful young girl and who saw in us her resemblance. There were people we met who remembered our Uncle, and our grandmother. The best though, was to reconnect with mums best friend ( Gabriellas) daughter, Snjezana. She grew up living her life vicariously through the letters, photos and money which mum would diligently send to her friend. Snjezana said she felt like she knew us both implicitly, as mum and Gabra, never ceased corresponding until, sadly, Gabra died. As girls they’d walk together, ride their bikes around the town, buy sweet biscuits to eat, walk the bridge to Hungry, laugh, sing and wonder where their lives would lead. Neither imagined being separated by such a vast distance and neither imagined never seeing each other again, when mum at the age of about 20, left and never returned. It was pure delight to trace their footsteps with Snjezana who was incredibly welcoming. We walked the parks, we touched the trees, went into the churches, sat in the pews, watched the river continue its journey, indulged in the feel of autumn on our skin as our mum once did. It was a special time in a special place in a tiny part of this magnificent country.Read more
TravelerWhat a very special experience for you both share together. Your mum would have loved knowing that you had the opportunity to visit the village and meet people who knew her!
We spent an extra day exploring the peaceful village of Legrad. The river Drava and the river Mura. Old tombstones which had stories to tell of lives and loves lived almost 100 years ago. We discovered our Great Grandmothers name was Josipa. Mums name was Szakal ( Hungarian heritage) , mums first boyfriend was a tall and handsome lad who lived and died here and so much more.Read more
TravelerOh wow. Have the must amazing time. I’ve always wanted to go to Isle of Wight. Post your pics and stories. Inspire us!! Hugs and happy travels to you both.
Back in Dads home country. It’s been such an amazing trip for the second time. Discovering cousins and second cousins, walking dad’s footsteps across the meadows, the farms, the cobblestone streets. Staring in wonder at the remains of a century old Cathedral and walls and structures of ancient kingdoms which reigned and visited here. In awe of this areas Neolithic history, the hot springs, the cold refreshing drinkable springs, the colour of autumn in the parks, the hills and streets. It’s a picturesque landscape and we feel totally absorbed in what we experience. There is evidence of the previous war from bullet holes to mortar blasts to all the new more modern constructions too. The war for freedom was tough here and came quite unexpectedly in this region so most people were unarmed and fled. Upon returning in 1995 most of their villages had been destroyed, bombed , burned and crushed. People here are resilient and they talk in peaceful terms with a positive outlook for the future. It gives one hope for other countries experiencing war.Read more
TravelerI’m glad to hear of the hope such resilience brings. It’s easy to lose hope - given the actions being taken around the world currently. I will take your hope anyday.
Dubrovnik. Battles have been fought here. Badly bombed in the recent war, walls have been built again here. History has been made here. The Old Town of Dubrovnik, is known as the Pearl of the Adriatic, its a city surrounded by ancient defensive walls. There are numerous churches, museums, shops, cafes and restaurants which kept us busy. You can spend hours just walking around marvelling at the picture post card scenes which surround you. We got lost here with Sharon and Angie joining our travels. What a delight to share in the spectacular views, the accommodation built hundreds of years ago, our private little swimming beach with 200 steps down ( and back up of course ). We shopped here. We ate delicious seafood. We watched the folk group dance , drank the local wine and blissed out in all of Dubrovniks pleasures.Read more
Zagreb is our pick up , drop off, business, fly in, fly out part of the trip. It’s taken us a while to grow to love it. The architecture here is amazing and it’s suffered through recent earthquakes. We find more alley ways, more cobblestone streets, restaurants, bars, cafes, markets and gorgeous parks with ancient trees. Having business to do here meant we were forced to walk and discover places we normally would not. There is a rich history of occupation by the Romans, Venetians, Hungarians, Austrians, Germans. Wars which ravaged, wars which suppressed. It’s seen fascism, dictatorships, communism and finally democratic freedom. Each part of its history has left an indelible footprint and it’s incredibly evident in its architecture. We are very aware of walking through some streets due to the danger of falling facades, from balconies to ornate sculptures , to statues, to bricks , stone and mortar. Pazi Facada Pada! Beware the facade is falling.
Catching up again with Kostana ( Bajas sister) and our second cousins and family. What a great night we had at Stari Fijaker a Zagreb restaurant with authentic Croatian cuisine. Lots of laughs, maybe some flirtations with the bar staff ( Sis) and promises to stay in touch. Zagreb you have woven your spirit into our psyche and our love for this capital city is renewed.Read more
TravelerHi Irene, just catching up on your incredible adventures. Great photos and commentary. What a journey, so many memories and emotions. And abit still to go. Enjoy your last week. Xxx
Korcula island is a 2 hour ferry trip from Dubrovnik via Hvar. It’s said to be the birth place of Marco Polo so much alludes to his presence here. The Venetian influence is unmistakable in its shuttered stone buildings and winding cobblestone alleyways. Crystal clear waters surround this island and we swam in its pristine waters daily for our early morning swims. We stayed right in the middle of one of those alleys in an architecturally renovated private home. Stunning views, creative spaces and splashes of history from the old drinking fountains to the original stone steps and walls. So beautiful. Our gorgeous hostess organised a wine tasting and Eco Lunch at a local organic farm. This was amazing. This day will linger in our memory long after we leave Korcula behind.Read more
From Korcula we caught the ferry for a quick stop on the Island of Hvar. An ice cream , a gin, a walk and back on the ferry to the gorgeous island of Vis. Mamma Mia Two was partially filmed here. Vis with its old towns of cobbled stone alley ways, lime stone buildings and wooden shutters, smooth pebbled beaches and the deep deep turquoise blue of the sea. This place is magical. We spent the days here walking, touring the old military tunnels, visiting the quaint fishing village of Komiza and maybe a few Shenanigans along the way. Lots of cats on Vis and it’s been a huge problem but they have a great program in place educating owners and funding their management. Vis has a rich history. Inhabited in the Neolithic period, it became the first Greek colony on the Adriatic Sea in the 4th century BC. The ancient town of Issa was located in the same place and in the harbour, remains can be found only a few metres below. Issa became Illyrian, then fell under Roman rule. In the early centuries AD Vis was developing as an important commercial port on the Adriatic Sea. Many cargo ships, transporting olives, wine and fish in the ancient amphorae, passed close to the island. Not each pass was successful –and remains are also found in the sea around Vis. After the fall of the Roman Empire, the Dalmatian islands became the property of Byzantium for the next 5 centuries and in those days the Slavs came to the island for the first time. For a tiny island it’s had a tumultuous history, however, and by the end of 10th century AD Venetians totally destroyed the towns of Vis and Komiža and abducted almost all inhabitants. Those who left, moved to the interior and settled new villages of Dol and Velo Selo. Vis came under the rule of the Republic of Venice. The Venetian influence is still recognisable in the architecture on the island. The Middle Ages meant a lot of wars and battles, but the worst happened after the 18th century. Between 1797 and 1806 Vis was, by turns, Austrian, French and British. Then there were numerous battles between the French and British ( there’s even an English cemetery) and in 1815 Vis fell under Austrian rule . The next change was brought about by World War II, after which Vis became a part of a newly created Yugoslavia. After the war, the army used the island as its main naval base. It’s only after the recent Balkans war ended 1995,that Vis finally became a place of tranquility ( for now anyway) enjoyed by tourists and inhabited by local farmers and fishermen.Read more
Split. Home of the Diocletian palace. Guess where we stayed? The Palace was a maze of old buildings, stairs ( always stairs) alleys and architecture of Roman times long gone. We stopped here for just one night. It was a great opportunity to say final farewells as Angie departs for home the next day. We enjoyed a very informative walking tour of the Diocletian Palace , the Cathedral, the only surviving sphinx and a fascinating history of Romans, Venetians and Christians. We enjoyed a walk on the beautiful Split Riva in the evening, watching the mix of tourists young and older, and admiring the fashionably dressed locals. From Split we hired a car the next day and drove to Zagreb , our final destination before flying home. In Zagreb we caught up with Kostana and her sister in law at a very authentic Croatian restaurant. The meal was truly magnificent and followed by a night tour of Zagreb. It was a great way to finish an amazing trip of this tiny but exceptionally gorgeous country. We saw some fabulous sites, stayed in amazing places, met gorgeous people, ate delicious foods , journeyed the footsteps of our parents , walked 100’s of kilometres and loved it. What a trip.Read more
TravelerWhat a beautiful time you’ve had with your sister! I’ve been so busy writing my footprints I haven’t read all of yours but plan to do so on train to London 💗