• Happy Days Travel
  • Mark Wade
Okt 2024 – Mei 2025

South American Adventure

This epic eight-month overlanding trip through South America has been a long time in the planning! We will be visiting Colombia, Ecuador, Bolivia, Chile, Peru, Argentina, Uruguay, Paraguay, and Brazil. Exciting times! 😊 Baca lagi
  • Permulaan perjalanan
    3 Oktober 2024
    The view from our room

    And we're off!

    3 Oktober 2024, England ⋅ 🌙 9 °C

    Like all of our epic journeys, this one began in Skegvegas! We dropped Bertha off at the storage facility on a surprisingly sunny 🌞 morning and took a taxi to the station to go to Gatwick.

    This trip has been a long time in the planning and has undergone many changes between first making the booking and now. Tomorrow, we'll fly to Bogota, the capital of Colombia 🇨🇴. We're excited to explore what will be a whole new continent for us. We'll stay in the city for four days before flying up to Cartagena for a couple of weeks.

    Then, we'll join our overland truck and spend several months visiting nine of South America's 12 countries. I'm attaching a map of our route to this footprint.

    We have loads to look forward to! For today, our journey to the airport went without a hitch. All our connections worked. On the final leg, we bumped into a cousin of my Dad's. We haven’t seen him since we lived in Croydon 20 years ago! It's a very small world 🌎!

    We arrived too early to check in at our hotel, so Mark was forced to have his first pint of the trip 😂. Later, we had dinner and an early night ready for our flight in the morning.
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  • The only time I read a newspaper is when I pick up a free one before a flight! 😀

    A brief layover in Madrid

    4 Oktober 2024, Sepanyol ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    We had an early start this morning, but we got checked in and through security in record time! We were having breakfast in Spoons by 7.30am! Mark obviously had the obligatory pint or two of Thatchers Gold with his. I settled for coffee!

    Our first flight ✈️ of the day was a short hop to Madrid, a city we have never visited. No time to see anything today, though - we have less than 2 hours until our flight to Bogota!

    Next stop - Colombia 🇨🇴 😀
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  • Arriving in Colombia 🇨🇴

    4 Oktober 2024, Colombia ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    Our flight ✈️ from Madrid to Bogota, in a plane named Julio Iglesias, no less 😂, was uneventful. There is not much to see when you are flying over the Atlantic Ocean for hours on end! 😀 There were a few unusual cloud formations, but that was about it 😂. It was dark by the time we were approaching Bogota, so there was not much to see.

    Once we landed, we had a few hold-ups at security and passport control, meaning that we were amongst the last off the plane. I was worried that our pre-booked transfer would have given up on us, but, in reality, he had squeezed in an extra fare, so we had to wait for him!

    The drive to our hostel in downtown Bogota was fast and efficient. Our first impressions of the city were that we could have been anywhere. There were lots of nondescript skyscrapers with none of the usual colourful advertising hoardings or distinctive vehicles to give you clues as to which country you have landed in.

    However, as soon as we turned off the ring road into the old part of Bogota, it was a different story! The place was buzzing with traffic and throngs of people out enjoying their Friday night. We were struck by the amazing street art everywhere and by the music 🎶 spilling out of every doorway.

    Soon, David, our driver, was pulling up outside a characterful three-storey building, our home for the next four nights. Inside, check-in went smoothly. The only downside was dragging our extremely heavy bags up 6 flights of ancient, uneven, but gorgeously colourful, stairs to our room! Not a great deal of fun at what was now after 9pm local time (3am UK time!)

    We just had time to take in our surroundings (dated, but clean and comfortable - what more do we need?) before heading up to the roof bar for a nightcap. The music was thumping, the staff were very friendly, and the chef was boosting the flames on the barbecue with a hairdryer! Mark tried his first Colombian beer and declared it very much to his liking, especially at £1 a bottle! A musician was just getting ready to play. We were tempted to stay and listen, but we were just too tired, so we decided to call it a night.

    I think we're going to enjoy Colombia! 😀
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  • City tour with Gina

    5 Oktober 2024, Colombia ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

    We didn’t get a great deal of sleep! The street outside our room was very noisy with car horns blasting, music blaring, and people partying until the wee small hours. We got our own back by having showers and moving bags around at 7am when everyone else in the building was trying to sleep 😂🤣.

    We had pre-booked a city tour and needed to be at the meeting place a 6-minute walk away by 7.50. Breakfast at our accommodation doesn't start until 8am, so we ventured out and found a hole-in-the-wall café where we bought two strong black coffees and one freshly-cooked cheese empanada-type thing for a total of about £1.20! It was all delicious! (Note to self - I really must brush up on my basic Spanish - there isn't much English spoken here.)

    Suitably refreshed, we walked on to the meeting point for our tour. Whenever we arrive in a new city, we always book a tour. It's a great way to get a feel for a place, see the main sites, and learn something about the history and culture. This tour proved to be the perfect choice!

    Our guide, Gina, is Bogota born and bred, and has been working as a tour guide for the past seven years. She is passionate about her city and loves sharing her extensive knowledge with her guests. There were 5 of us on the tour. The other three were all Americans just in town for the weekend. I had to remind myself that, for them, it's only a four-hour flight away, rather than the 14 it took us!

    Bogota is the 3rd highest capital city in South America behind Quito and La Paz (we'll visit both of those later in this trip). It sits at 2640 metres above sea level. It is relatively cool all year, with a high of 18 to 20 degrees during the day and a low of 6 to 9 degrees at night. It can rain a lot - something that we would discover on our first day in the city!

    Gina explained to us that Bogota is an artsy city that allows you to feel like a local. I love that! It has world-class graffiti artists, interesting architecture, top-notch Colombian cuisine, and a UNESCO preserved historical district (La Candelaria where we were staying) set against a mountain backdrop.

    We had seen some of the street art and architecture as we walked from our hostel this morning - photos attached to this footprint 👣 😅.
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  • The statue of La PolaTamales ColombianosAlmojabanaHuevos pericosEmpanadas

    Breakfast!

    5 Oktober 2024, Colombia ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    Our first stop of our tour was at a traditional family-run café for breakfast. The Panaderia Donde el Flaco is located on a pretty street festooned with colourful upturned umbrellas. On the way there, we passed more street art, which I just had to take photos of!

    We also stopped to look at a statue of Policarpa Salavarrieta Ríos (born in Guaduas, January 26, 1795 and died in Santafé de Bogotá, November 14, 1817), nicknamed La Pola. She was a Colombian heroine who spied for the Creole independence forces during the Spanish Reconquista. She is considered a heroine of Colombian independence . She was executed in the Plaza Mayor, today called Plaza de Bolívar, on November 14, 1817.

    We were all foodies in the group, so we enjoyed Gina's explanations about the traditional Colombian dishes we were served. We shared delicious dishes like Tamales Colombianos, a combination of rice, chicken, and vegetables served wrapped in banana leaves; chicken and beef empanadas, meat and vegetable pasties made with corn pastry; Huevos Pericos, scrambled eggs flavoured with tomatoes and spring onions; and Almojabana, cheese bread - perfectly spherical rolls made with precooked cornmeal, fresh cheese, butter, eggs, and milk, shaped and deep-fried. We were encouraged to sprinkle Aji Picante, a spicy dressing made from onions, peppers, garlic, chilli, coriander, and lime juice, all over everything! To drink, we had a choice of hot chocolate or strong black coffee. The Americans all opted for the chocolate while Mark and I had the coffee. It was all very good - a great introduction to Colombian cuisine and just what we needed for all the walking to come!
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  • Gina, our guide

    Cerro de Montserrate

    5 Oktober 2024, Colombia ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    After breakfast, we set off to climb the hill to take the funicular to the summit of Monserrate Mountain, which overlooks Bogota. We were already at altitude, so some of our group struggled with the extra height. The funicular carried us from 2600 metres above sea level to an impressive 3152 metres! The views of the city as we climbed became more and more spectacular!

    There is also a cable car, which we took later to descend the mountain, and a hiking path, the preferred method for pilgrims to reach the top.

    The mountain, already considered sacred in pre-Columbian times when the area was inhabited by the indigenous Muisca, is a pilgrim destination, as well as a major tourist attraction. At the top, there is a 17th-century church devoted to El Señor Caído (the fallen lord).

    To get to the church, you follow a walkway punctuated with statues representing the stations of the cross. Between the statues, there are beautiful trees and shrubs, many of which have medicinal benefits.
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  • Amazing views and a stunning church

    5 Oktober 2024, Colombia ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    All downtown Bogotá, south Bogotá, and some sections of the north of the city are visible from the top of the mountain. We were lucky that the weather was clear enough to see the views.

    There was a service going on in the church. I was pleasantly surprised by how upbeat the music was - there was a clear Latino influence! The stained glass and the rare black Virgin Mary and baby Jesus were highlights of the interior.Baca lagi

  • Souvenir market and cable car ride

    5 Oktober 2024, Colombia ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    After visiting the church, Gina showed us round the souvenir market. She explained which items came from each region in Colombia and which of the 147 indigenous peoples had made them. It was a delight to find so many handcrafted, traditional items, rather than the usual tat imported from China!

    We then descended the mountain using the cable car. I wasn't lucky enough to get a position at the front this time, so the video isn't so good.

    At the bottom, we stopped to try bocadillo con queso, a slice of white cheese with a slice of guava paste. This cheap snack is sold from stalls all over Bogota. The combination of salty cheese and sweet guava paste is one of those heavenly combinations that you didn't know was missing from your life!
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  • Muisca golden raft

    Gold Museum

    5 Oktober 2024, Colombia ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    Our next stop was at the Gold Museum. At home, I have a copy of '1000 Places to See Before You Die'. In it, when I checked before the start of this trip, one of the essential places to visit in Colombia is the Gold Museum. I was very happy to be doing it on our first full day in the country!

    The museum displays a selection of pre-Columbian gold and other metal alloys, such as Tumbaga, and contains the largest collection of gold artefacts in the world. These items testify to the life and thought of the different indigenous societies that lived in present-day Colombia before the Spanish conquest of the Americas.

    The most important exhibit in the museum is the tiny Muisca golden raft found in Pasca in 1969. It represents the ceremony of the new zipa (ruler) of Muyquytá, the basis for the El Dorado myth. The heir to the chieftaincy assumed power with a great offering to the gods. In this representation, he is seen standing at the centre of a raft, surrounded by the principal chieftains, all of them adorned with gold and feathers.

    It was fascinating to explore the museum with Gina as our guide. Her knowledge and gift for storytelling really gave meaning to what we were seeing.

    Outside the museum, a group of adults and children were painting patterns on a plain wall surrounding a communal space as part of a community project to improve their neighbourhood.
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  • Plaza de Bolívar and ajiaco

    5 Oktober 2024, Colombia ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    We then walked up Calle Real, the main pedestrianised shopping street in Bogota, to reach Plaza de Bolivar. The place was thronging with people - tourists mingled with local families enjoying Saturday afternoon outings. There were numerous street performers and vendors selling everything from tubs of pigeon food to beakers of hot toddy!

    The history of Bolívar Square dates back to the pre-Columbian era, when the site was part of the Muisca Confederation. The first building on the square, a primitive cathedral, was constructed in 1539, a year after the foundation of the Colombian capital. During the Spanish colonial period, Bolívar Square was the stage for circus acts, public markets, and bullfights.

    The square is surrounded by historical buildings; the Palace of Justice is located on the northern edge, and the National Parliament Building borders the square in the south. The Primary Cathedral of Bogotá, next to the Archiepiscopal Palace with the monumental door cast by Ferdinando Marinelli Artistic Foundry and the Liévano Palace, seat of the mayor of Bogotá, are situated on the eastern and western side respectively.

    Bolívar Square is a main tourist attraction in Bogotá and the site for many demonstrations and protests. We used it as the backdrop for our group photo to remind us all of such a special day.

    We then went to a restaurant close by for the first course of what would be a three-course tasting lunch. We ate ajiaco, a traditional Colombian chicken soup with potatoes and corn, served with capers, avocado, rice, and cream.

    I was drawn to a colourful hand stitched collage on the wall.

    Just before we finished eating, the heavens opened. The noise on the roof of the restaurant was deafening! It was a deluge of biblical proportions! Within only a few minutes, the road outside had turned into a river. I was immediately transported back to our time living in Vietnam when we could set our watches by the monumental downpour that happened at 4.30 every afternoon!
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  • Centro Cultural Gabriel García Márquez

    5 Oktober 2024, Colombia ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    We dodged the rain and the flooded streets to get to our next stop - the Gabriel Garcia Marquez Cultural Centre.

    Gabriel (6 March 1927 – 17 April 2014) was a Colombian novelist, short-story writer, screenwriter, and journalist known affectionately as Gabo or Gabito throughout Latin America. Considered one of the most significant authors of the 20th century, particularly in the Spanish language, he was awarded the 1972 Neustadt International Prize for Literature and the 1982 Nobel Prize in Literature. He pursued a self-directed education that resulted in leaving law school for a career in journalism. From early on, he showed no inhibitions in his criticism of Colombian and foreign politics. He is best known for his novels, such as One Hundred Years of Solitude (1967), which sold over fifty million copies.

    When García Márquez died in April 2014, Juan Manuel Santos, the president of Colombia, called him "the greatest Colombian who ever lived."

    We paused to listen to a guy playing musical instruments he had made himself out of bamboo. I was particularly taken with the bamboo sax.

    Our next stop was at the Carbon d Lena café where we tried Poker beer, and Gina taught us the traditional Colombian way to make a toast. To eat, we had tasting samples of barbecued veal, deep fried plantain, potato, and guacamole, all seasoned with aji picante.
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  • Café Herencia

    5 Oktober 2024, Colombia ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    The final stop on our tour was at Café Herencia and Art Gallery. Here, Gina explained to us all about the coca trade in Colombia. It is legal to grow coca here, and indeed, indigenous people are encouraged to continue to plant it. They believe in the medicinal properties of the leaf, and they use it to make tea, cakes, cookies, skin cream, rum, etc. Gina demonstrated how to 'take' the leaf as a medicine. One of the Americans tried it. He said he didn't feel any noticeable differences!

    I was more interested in the indigenous art on display than I was in the coca!

    After having coffee and cake, we said our goodbyes to Gina. It had been an incredibly good tour. We were ending it with a better understanding of modern Colombia and its history and culture.
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  • Music and dance everywhere

    5 Oktober 2024, Colombia ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    After the tour, we wandered back in the direction of our hostel through some really pretty streets. Music is everywhere in this city. Street performers attract large crowds. Pedestrians start dancing when they hear music. Sounds of salsa and cha cha spill out of dark doorways, and you catch glimpses of exquisite dancing as you pass by. It is a place like no other we have been to.

    We sat in a café bar and had a drink while we watched and listened to singers and dancers. I can confirm that Michael Jackson is alive and well and performing in Bogota!
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  • Traditional Colombian dinner

    5 Oktober 2024, Colombia ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    For dinner, we went to Origen Bistró. Gina had recommended it to us, and it was just round the corner from our hostel.

    The food was delicious! We just had a main course each as we had been snacking most of the day. Mark had smoked ribs served with salad and gratin potatoes. I had pan-fried trout, a local speciality, with salad and the biggest 'fries' I've ever seen (which Mark ate 😊). To drink, Mark tried the 'negre' version of the Colombian beer he's been drinking. It was more like a stout - perfect with his rich sticky sauce. I had a lulada that Gina had suggested. It is a combination of the juice of the lulo fruit (a relative of the pineapple, known as naranjilla, meaning 'little orange' in Spanish ), lime juice, water, and sugar. It tasted great, but I don’t think it fits in with my low-carb lifestyle! 😂

    Just as we started our meal, the heavens opened again. The rain was torrential! Those people seated outside in the pretty courtyard had to quickly move indoors. The road outside soon became a river! Luckily, by the time we had eaten, the rain had stopped, and we had a pleasant walk back.
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  • Breakfast with a view

    6 Oktober 2024, Colombia ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    It wasn’t quite so noisy overnight, so we slept better. We're still on the wrong time, though, so we woke up very early. 

    Surprisingly, in the light of how much rain we had yesterday, we woke up to no water in the taps! Bogota is still considered to be in a state of drought. After a uncharacteristic prolonged dry spell, restrictions were reintroduced on September 29th. Bogotá's mayor said, 'The extended dry spell in 2023, which worsened in 2024, has resulted in one of the most severe environmental challenges Colombia has faced in recent years. Concerns are growing over the possibility of Bogotá reaching “Day Zero” — the point at which water supplies could run out completely.' It’s a very scary prospect!

    Luckily, the receptionist had warned us when we came back last night, so we had showers and filled our flask and water bottles. We were organised!

    At 8am, we went up to the roof bar for breakfast. Today was the only day out of the four we are here that we could take advantage of the included breakfast. On all the other days, we have to leave before they start serving. It was a set meal of fresh melon followed by Huevos Pericos and some kind of pastry soaked in syrup and sprinkled with oats. I didn’t eat the pastry, but the eggs were very good. We enjoyed several cups of Colombian coffee whilst enjoying the view of the surrounding rooftops.
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  • The HandMona Lisa aged 12FamilyHorseCatMan on HorseCrucifixionCaptain

    Museo Botero

    6 Oktober 2024, Colombia ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    We had planned an easier day today and were in no rush to get out. Traffic is banned from the centre of Bogota on Sundays. The streets are given over to walkers, joggers, skaters, and cyclists in an initiative called Cyclovia. It makes it really pleasant to just wander around and 'people watch' - one of our favourite activities wherever we are in the world! The forecast rain never came - it was warm and sunny all day.

    All of the museums in Bogota are free on Sundays, too. There are a plethora of them. The only one I was keen to visit, though, was the Museo Botero.

    Fernando Botero Angulo was born in Medellin in 1932 and died in Monaco in 2023. His signature style, also known as "Boterismo", depicts people and figures in large, exaggerated volume, which can represent political criticism or humour, depending on the piece. He was considered the most recognized and quoted artist from Latin America in his lifetime, and his art can be found in highly visible places around the world, such as Park Avenue in New York City and the Champs -Élysées in Paris.

    In 2005, Botero gained considerable attention for his Abu Ghraib series, which was exhibited first in Europe. He based the works on reports of United States forces' abuses of prisoners at Abu Ghraib prison during the Iraq War. Beginning with an idea he had had on a plane journey, Botero produced more than 85 paintings and 100 drawings in exploring this concept and "painting out the poison." The series was exhibited at two United States locations in 2007, including Washington, DC. Botero said he would not sell any of the works but would donate them to museums.

    I have been aware of Botero for a long time and remember hearing about his passing on the news last year. I like his figurative style and his literal titles, 'Man on a Horse', 'Woman Smoking', and 'Cat', for example. It was great to see so many of his works together in one place. I hadn’t realised that he was as prolific a sculptor as he was a painter.

    On the second floor of the museum, there are works by other artists such as Lucien Freud, Pablo Picasso, Claude Monet, and Salvador Dali, many of which were donated by Botero himself. We spent a very enjoyable hour or two looking at the exhibits with big smiles on our faces!
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  • Iglesia de Nuestra Señora de la Candelaria

    A Sunday meander

    6 Oktober 2024, Colombia ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    From the museum, we wandered around the local area, soaking up the atmosphere and enjoying the sunshine. 

    We crept into the Iglesia de Nuestra Señora de la Candelaria during a service. The priest was delivering what sounded like a very passionate sermon!

    One unusual thing that caught our eye was the dozens of stalls selling 'Obleas Mick Jagger' and using his image to advertise their wares! I don't know if he has endorsed this! 😂 Apparently, when the Rolling Stones were performing in Bogota in 2016, Mick fancied something sweet. He was taken to a small stand selling obleas, a wafer sandwich with a creamy filling. Photos of a smiling Mick eating the obleas introduced this Colombian dessert to the world!

    We also saw a mechanical sugar cane juicer made completely out of highly polished and varnished wood.

    We returned to Plaza de Bolívar as I forgot to take a photo of the great man himself when we were there yesterday.

    Simón José Antonio de la Santísima Trinidad Bolívar Palacios Ponte y Blanco (24 July 1783 – 17 December 1830) was a Venezuelan statesman and military officer who led what are currently the countries of Colombia, Venezuela, Ecuador, Peru, Panama, and Bolivia to independence from the Spanish Empire. He is known colloquially as El Libertador, or the Liberator of America.

    Here in Colombia, he is regarded as a hero. He was the first president of the country from 16th February 1819 until 27th April 1830. He died of tuberculosis in Santa Marta later that year, aged just 47.

    We also had a look inside the cathedral. We found it to be rather plain apart from the stunning chandeliers.
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  • An unexpected dance festival

    6 Oktober 2024, Colombia ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    We walked past Bogotá's military museum. We had already decided that we wouldn't go in, despite the free entry. However, there was a festival of traditional dance going on and we found ourselves being ushered inside to watch. It was wholly unexpected and thoroughly enjoyable. The energy displayed by the performers was incredible, and the Colombian music was mesmerising. We spent a good hour there before going in search of some lunch.Baca lagi

  • Lunch at Tinteo

    6 Oktober 2024, Colombia ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    We chose a traditional Colombian restaurant with a pleasant courtyard so that we could enjoy the sunshine. We decided to order three appetisers to share as we didn't want a full meal. We are already learning that portion sizes here are generally huge and heavily carb-based!

    We ordered Patacon con Hogao, corn bases topped with mashed plantain, grated cheese, and aji picante - sounds weird, but they tasted surprisingly good! We also had beef and cheese empanadas, and Chicharron con Papa Criotta, pork pieces with yellow potatoes which were very floury and dry. I would have liked a salad, but there were none on the menu 😀.

    Needless to say, we were very full after lunch and didn't need to eat for the rest of the day!

    We returned to the hostel and spent the evening on the roof editing photos and writing posts.
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  • Day trip to Zipaquira

    7 Oktober 2024, Colombia ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    We were up early so that we had time to venture out for breakfast.  We found somewhere just around the corner that did scrambled eggs and strong coffee - the perfect start to the day!

    At 8am, we were outside the hostel waiting for our transport.  We had booked a full-day tour to the colonial town of Zipaquira and the salt mine located close by.  The minibus was bang on time.  Our guide was Steven (real name Brian Steven Baptista, a native of Bogota whose parents had been watching some American TV series at the time he was born! 😂).  There were already 2 Spanish people on the bus.  We had another 8 to pick up before our tour would start, so Steven spent the time chatting to us about our upcoming trip to Cartagena.  He was surprised (and pleased) that we have booked to stay in the less-touristy Boquilla district, rather than the more popular Bocagrande.  He recommended some places to go and things to do when we get there.

    Once we had our full complement of passengers (the others were 3 Americans, 2 Brazillians, 2 Puerto Ricans, and a German), we set off out of Bogota towards Zipaquira.  Steven easily switched between English, Spanish, and German as he explained about the areas we were driving through.  We were in the northern part of Bogota which was clearly a wealthy area.  Steven told us that a tiny 30 square metre apartment here costs US$1000 a month to rent.  A larger 100 square metre flat is between US$8000 and 10,000!  This is in a country where the average salary is just US$320 per month!

    Steven explained that the southern side of Bogota is poorer and much more dangerous, an area to be avoided.  Having said this, the government did deals with the drugs cartels a few years ago which have guaranteed peace and made the country in general much safer.  Everyone understands the value of tourism for the future economic success of Colombia and is working hard to attract visitors.

    It took us about 90 minutes to reach Zipaquira just 49 kilometres away.  In pre-colonial times, indigenous people discovered salt in the area and established a settlement 200 metres above the present site of the city.  They extracted salt by hand and traded it for pottery and tiles with peoples throughout the Andean region of Colombia.

    In the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries, the Spanish conquistadors gradually took over the salt mines, increased production, and built a new city.

    We had a short stop for a very welcome coffee and then went on to visit the house where Gabriel Garcia Marquez grew up.  This house, built in the Spanish colonial style in 1789, is now a cultural centre.  Local people of all ages come here to learn how to play instruments, to dance, to write, and just to be creative.  It's a lovely space.  It was great to hear different musical styles coming from different rooms.  I popped my head into the largest room to photograph a mural of the great man himself.  Inside, there was a musical movement class going on for elderly residents of the town.  They invited me to join in, but I politely declined! 😂
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  • Walking tour of Zipaquira

    7 Oktober 2024, Colombia ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    From the cultural centre, we walked to the impressive main square of Zipaquira, passing original Spanish Colonial architecture on the way.  The square is surrounded on all sides by attractive buildings, mainly Spanish, but there are two very clear examples of French colonial style.  The whole city is a tourist destination both for Colombians and foreigners.  Steven told us that it is also a popular retirement place for people who have worked all their lives in Bogota.  They are attracted by the quiet and the relaxed pace of life.

    We had some spare time in the square before we headed up to the Salt Cathedral.
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  • Salt Cathedral of Zipaquira

    7 Oktober 2024, Colombia ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    The Salt Cathedral of Zipaquirá is an underground Roman Catholic church built within the tunnels of a salt mine 200 metres underground in a halite mountain near Zipaquirá.  It is a tourist destination regarded as the 'first wonder of Colombia' and a place of pilgrimage.  The cathedral is considered one of the most notable achievements of Colombian architecture and represents a valuable cultural, environmental, and religious patrimony for the Colombian people.  It is a functioning church that receives as many as 3,000 worshippers on Sundays, but it has no bishop and therefore no official status as a cathedral in Catholicism.

    Years before the underground church was built (around 1932), the miners had carved a sanctuary, as a place for their daily prayers asking for protection from the saints before starting to work. In 1950, the construction of a bigger project began. The Salt Cathedral was inaugurated on August 15, 1954, and dedicated to Our Lady of the Rosary, patron saint of miners. It was composed of three naves and a monumental cross. Parts of the galleries used in the cathedral were actually carved by the ancient Muisca. However, as the church was carved inside an active mine, structural problems and safety concerns led the authorities to shut it in September 1992. 

    In 1991 the construction of a new cathedral was begun, 200 feet under the older one. This new cathedral was inaugurated on December 16, 1995. Its various corridors and sanctuaries were achieved by making small but significant additions to the caves left behind by previous mining operations.

    The main sections of this phenomenal building are:

    The Stations of the Cross: At the entrance of the church, there are 14 small chapels, representing the stations of the cross, which illustrate the events of Jesus' last journey. Each station has a cross and several kneeling platforms carved into the halite structure.

    The Dome: Located at the end of the main entrance ramp. From here, the visitor descends to the bas-relief cross chambers, the balcony, and the Narthex labyrinth.

    The Lady Chapel: With its elaborate chandeliers and icons of the Virgin Mary, this space is used for services every Sunday.

    The Three Naves: These vast spaces symbolise the birth, life, and death of Christ. Four large cylindric columns 8 metres in diameter represent the four gospels. It is here that thousands of worshippers gather every week.

    I can say that we have never been in a structure like the Salt Cathedral!  As we entered the mine and began to descend, the chapels dedicated to the stations of the cross were a little underwhelming.  It was difficult to see how these carved crosses represented what had happened to Jesus.  However, when we reached a depth of 200 metres and emerged into the Lady Chapel and progressed into the naves, it was a real wow moment!  What a feat of engineering!  The sheer scale and audacity of the design took our breath away.  We stopped in the main nave to watch an incredible sound and light show projected onto the salt wall behind the altar.  Sadly, the video doesn't do justice to the impact of this installation.

    Between the naves and the point where we waited for the land train to take us back to the surface, was a 'commercial area'.  Here, bizarrely, there were a number of shops - ice cream parlours, jewellers, gift shops, cafes, and clothes boutiques - ready to tempt pilgrims and tourists to part with their money.  There was also a cinema where we watched a 20-minute 3D film explaining the thousands of years of history surrounding the salt mine and the different incarnations of religious structures on the site.  It was fascinating!

    Back on the surface, after two and a half hours underground, we met up with Steven and our driver and went for lunch.

    The photos attached to this footprint are of the entrance to the mine and of some of the stations of the cross.
    Baca lagi