South American Adventure

After this stop, we returned to Banos.  We dropped some of our stuff at the hostel and went out for a wander.  We had intended to find a supermarket and buy ingredients to cook for ourselves, but we ended up in the market with Denise and Derk.  There, we had delicious street food that filled us up for the rest of the day for just a few dollars.  I had a chicken soup, and Mark had chorizo and eggs with potato cakes and different salads.

Later, we visited the city’s church with its glorious altar piece.  This Basilica is dedicated to the Virgin of the Holy Water, who is credited with several local miracles. Inside, there are several artworks by Father Enrique Mideros depicting the miracles, and there is a museum in his name attached to the church.  This was closed when we were there, so we will probably try again tomorrow.

We had ice-cream before returning to the hostel.Läs mer

We had an unexpected stop at the Royal Tombs of Sipán Museum in Lambayeque.  We had a truck lunch of salads, wraps, and leftovers in the car park and then those of us who wanted to, had 30 minutes to look around the museum.  It contains most of the important artefacts (ceremonial vessels, necklaces, and jewellery) found at Huaca Rajada (Sipan) by archeologist Walter Alva in 1987, including the tombs of the Lord of Sipán and his entourage. 

The city of Sipán existed from 50–700 AD, the same time as the Moche Period.  The museum was inaugurated in 2002.  It was designed to resemble the ancient Moche tombs.

Sipán is considered to be a very important archaeological discovery.  Many of the tombs had been looted, but the artefacts that remained play an important role in understanding the Moche rulers and traditions. The tombs are of adobe construction and pyramid-shaped.  Their discovery allowed archaeologists and anthropologists to get a better understanding of the Sacrifice Ceremony of the Sipán rulers that had been illustrated on murals, ceramics, and other decorative goods. The artefacts uncovered included adornments and a headdress that matched illustrations of the ceremony along with large knives and tools that would have been used for bloodletting and decapitation.

During the excavations from 1987 to 1990, a spectacular treasure of gold and silver ornamental and ceremonial items was found, all of them dating from AD 50–300.  These objects demonstrate the outstanding craftsmanship of the Moche metalsmiths through their use of elaborate and advanced metalworking techniques.

Examples of metalwork found in Sipán include head-shaped beads, peanut-shaped beads, coffin straps, fan handles, spearheads, a copper-plated banner, ceremonial knives, golden headdresses, silver and gold nose and ear ornaments, a gold necklace made of 10 spiderweb beads (spider bodies with human faces sitting on golden wires), and a gilded copper animal (possibly fox or dog).  The vast majority of these works were placed in richly decorated tombs, indicating both their high value to the Sipán leadership and the frequent need for artisans to continue to make new artefacts as old ones were buried.

The displays in the museum warranted a much longer visit than the 30 minutes we had.  I was particularly fascinated to see the textiles and the perfectly preserved exquisite beadwork collars and breastplates.Läs mer