Europe Trip 2023

July - October 2023
A 94-day adventure by Heather & Vikum Read more
  • 46footprints
  • 8countries
  • 94days
  • 774photos
  • 31videos
  • 23.4kkilometers
  • 19.2kkilometers
  • Day 8

    Living like a King

    August 4, 2023 in England ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    Another rest day (sort of) which was much needed. Bit of a sleep in and then went to Tesco in the morning to pick up some groceries to cook dinner for the family. We then went to Hampton Court Palace which is one of the royal residences and was the former home of King Henry VIII. Pretty staggering to see a building that dates back to 1514, 300 or so years before NZ was founded. We walked around for a while with the audio guides provided as part of the admission, and then headed to watch a joust which was being held that day. The crowd watching the joust was split into 4, with each section of the crowd allocated a knight and horse to support for the joust. Our knight fell off his horse in the practice run but that was his only weakness as he went on to win the joust. Very cool to see a joust in real life (sadly less violence then the movies). After that we checked out the palace some more and then made our way back. We cooked up dinner for the Rossers as a thanks for them for hosting us, and then ended the day with some Pictionary (we later learned we were using children's cards rather than the adult cards woops). -VRead more

  • Day 9

    Camden & Cathedral

    August 5, 2023 in England ⋅ 🌧 17 °C

    We love the London busses. £1.75 for unlimited journeys when tapping on within the hour, how good! Consequently, on Saturday we covered more ground then the other days and we were thankful for it because our feet had done some kms after the week so far. We bussed straight up to Camden Market in search of some more music, food and culture which we found wandering over the Lock and through the endless shops and stalls. I couldn’t help my magpie ways and purchased a little ring for my collection. Concurrently, Vikum ate his way around the free chicken tasters being offered as enticements…possibly the same stall twice? (hard to tell, there was lots of food stalls 😏). For lunch, we scrounged the Yorkshire (Pudding) Burrito that I’d had saved on my Google Maps for about as long as we’d had the flights to England booked…it was delicious despite it’s novelty factor. V a little underwhelmed, however he’s less of a roast dinner person than I am, I would say. After attempting to find a decent coffee at Turkish coffee spot, we left with traditional coffees that were more sour than we could manage and continued our ongoing battle to find decent coffee somewhere (I am always keeping an eye out for Aussie or Kiwi run coffee shops). Onto another bus we carried on to St Paul’s Cathedral which was unfathomably wonderful. The mosaics though not part of the original cathedral where my favourite and taking the 582 steps up to Dome galleries to see the inside structure of the dome plus the views over London was worth every step. Vikum found a pub nearby for an avo pint and then we continued our mini-crawl to another pub which we found under a railway arch with a seat right on the Thames, and again onto a quiet hotel bar for some respite. We crossed London Bridge and strolled along The Queen’s Walk to Tower Bridge, passing the Tower of London itself where there were no heads on pikes, but it had been a long day…so there might have been one head on pike soon enough (V was hangry) had we not found our way to an restaurant for a curry dinner - so delicious. The korma was much much sweeter than we’re used to and the Tikka Masala was next level. Vikum let me drag him to one last site on my list: a piece of the old Roman Londinium wall before running for our bus home where we met Trajan. Finding our way home we again opted for a bus, a longer 45min journey with some more sightseeing of central suburbs. We crashed for the night feeling accomplished in seeing so much of London.Read more

  • Day 10

    🎵 Last day in London “…just headin out”

    August 6, 2023 in England ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    Had a sleep in and slow start to the morning after a long week. Spent the day getting ready to go to Scotland and hanging out with the Rosser’s. In the morning Jane and Issy took us to a massive Tesco to pick up some airbeds and a duvet as we were hoping to sleep in our rental car in Scotland. After the Tesco trip we headed back home to do some more packing as well as some more games of Pictionary and Articulate (with the adult cards this time). Simon had spent the day cooking a Sunday roast which we were very grateful for and this was the perfect last meal to end our time in London. After this, it was time to say our goodbyes and make our way to Euston station to board our sleeper train to Scotland. After a sweaty tube ride with our packs, we were glad to board the sleeper train which was a very nice change and a cool way to travel. Leaving London at 9pm, you wake up in the morning travelling through the Scottish highlands. Big thanks to the Rosser’s for their hospitality over the week. Hopefully we can return the favour when they next make their way to NZ! -VRead more

  • Day 11

    To the garrison!

    August 7, 2023 in Scotland ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    Waking up on the Caledonian Sleeper train en route to Fort William we marvelled at the highland landscape and the many beautiful lochs. The rolling moors were filled with heather and it was exactly what I’d been hoping for as our start to Scotland. Our hire car was waiting for us at the station - a fancy Kia Stonic - which we had hired for a few days. The train was 1hr delayed which hardly impacted us with no strict plans, but because the delay passed the National “Delay Repay scheme” threshold we had the full NZD$600 train ride refunded; sweetening the deal even more for what was an amazing train ride (we couldn’t believe our luck!). Getting off the train, the weather was warm in the sun but there was a chilly breeze while we headed to the first stop which was lunch at the Corpach Marina. An awesome spot where we feasted on a lentil soup, toasties and chips with curry sauce plus our first drop of the local nectar: Irn Bru (tastes like liquid candy). We walked part of the Caledonian canal and spotted the Coal Beach shipwreck. Then kept driving out towards the coast and parked up to see the Glenfinnan Viaduct where the coal railway runs - the place that Harry Potter flies over with the Weasley’s flying car. Pretty magical. Afterwards, we drove around the local area and sussed a campsite at the bottom of Ben Nevis which was a really cool spot, if a bit busy, then headed for a beer at the Ben Nevis Inn around the corner. It was our first taste of the one way roads and passing places that are all over the highlands. The inn itself was a classic highland inn and clearly a popular haunt for the hikers finishing the Nevis walk. Then we drove to look for a dinner - trying many places on an empty stomach that kept falling through; the supermarkets had no hot food, others closed, others with impossible parking and the doner kebab which was not at all what a doner is in NZ -> no veges which is what I was craving, so we drove out again to the Coal suburb for dinner. The area had a beautiful view of the Loch and mountain as we waited for our Chinese which we ate in the car. Delicious vege dish and rice which hit the spot after driving around hungry. We watched the view and a movie on the iPad for a bit while we ate, and finished a bit of cheap red wine we’d picked up for the train ride the night before. All and all a cool day and one that I’ll remember for learning how hard it can be to find a hot meal with diverse vegetables in the Scottish highlands (at least affordably). We had some nice long hot showers at the campsite (good because they’re part of the campsite fee) which started the evening well but then we attempted to settle in to sleep in the car with our two single blow up beds. They didn’t fit well so we ended up sleeping on what can only be compared to a deflating bouncy castle this night. Vikum said to me at probably 1am “we are buying a tent tomorrow”. We went to bed eventually, but had a rough sleep 😆Read more

  • Day 12

    Loch Livin’

    August 8, 2023 in Scotland ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    After a terrible night’s sleep in the cramped car, we were both pretty excited to get up and start the day. We decided we needed to buy a tent so we added that to the plan for the day. We packed up the car and started making our way towards Glencoe where we wanted to do some walks that day. On the way, we stopped at the Corpach Marina cafe again for breakfast, which turned out to the biggest breakfast we both had in our lives as we ordered a full scottish breakfast. After eating our own weight in food (H: so much meat!), we continued our drive out to Glencoe. The scenery was incredible, driving alongside huge lochs and through mountain valleys and rolling hills. We were hoping to stop at the Three Sisters for a walk but parking was hard to come by so we continued further and then eventually parked at the start of a walk which we didn’t know the name of (we later learnt the name was Buachaille Etive Beag). We didn’t really know where the walk would go to, but after 2 hours of climbing, we reached a 900m peak with stunning views across the valley, and perfect weather to boot. After a pretty exhausting walk back down to the car, we were ready to kick back and relax at a campground. A bit of searching took us to a beatiful campsite in Caolasnacon on the south shore of Loch Leven and we managed to find a spot by the water to pitch our tent. We headed out to Kinlochleven for a quick drink at a beautiful old pub/hotel overlooking a loch, and stopped off on the way back to grab groceries for dinner. Once back at the campsite we cooked up a delicious meal on our disposable bbq and got ready for a much more comfortable night’s rest in the tent. -VRead more

  • Day 13

    Bonnie Scotland

    August 9, 2023 in Scotland ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    Waking up on the shores of Loch Leven was so beautiful and clear, the sun had blessed us with another day for the outdoors. The tent worked well, despite being a cheap tent with a precarious looking mesh roof covering (it didn’t rain thankfully) and we considered grabbing a tarp but decided to stay hopeful with the forecast and try our luck with only one night left. We started the day with some scones with homemade raspberry jam at a cute cafe and “magpie” gift store in Ballachulish, where V bought the most Scottish souvenir ever…a stainless steel hip flask covered in hand woven tweed woven in the outer Hebrides. I, surprisingly, came away with nothing (difficult, but I managed it). We drove out again passing Glenfinnan towards the coast stopping at The Prince’s Cairn which marks the place Bonnie Prince Charlie (Charles Edward Stuart) left on a ship for France during the Jacobite uprising and after the final defeat at Culloden. A very peaceful, quiet spot to park up and walk, so a ship picking up the Bonnie Prince was hard to picture. We followed the coastal road out to Mallaig, an early fishing village and doorway to the Isle of Skye. We enjoyed a supermarket meal deal with a seal friend to hang out with…saving our pennies to try a whiskey (awful!) and some local seafood (amazing!). We saw a cool attraction at Arisaig on the drive to Mallaig so stopped in at the Arisaig “Silver Sands of Morar” beach (sounds like somewhere out of the Lord of the Rings) to see the white sand and have a quick dip in the cold Hebridean waters…there were some weird looking sand-worm things so H stayed near the beach while V waded out in low tide for a full body ice bath. We booked last minute into the Arisaig Hotel Shell Shack to try mussels, scallops (the best ever!) and Cullen Skink: a yummy Scottish soup similar to a Seafood Chowder but more specific Scottish ingredients. Then we drove back to the first camp site under Ben Nevis that we stayed the first night so we were close to the bus station in Fort William ready for our early start the next morning. We crashed, very full from our seafood feast and readied ourselves to head back into the bigger city after enjoying the natural wonders of the highlands.Read more

  • Day 14

    Both sides of the Firth

    August 10, 2023 in Scotland ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    This day started at 4am for packing down the tent in Fort William and driving to the CityLink bus station where we were leaving our hire car by 6:30-7am and taking an early bus to Edinburgh. I was glad we’d given ourselves plenty of time because the bus was so prompt. It also ended up being surprisingly luxurious too - reclining comfy chairs, not smelly at all, and plenty of space. The public transport in Scotland is very good, I would highly recommend it from our experiences so far (a $600 refund helps). The bus drove through Glencoe again and the Trossachs National Park which was great scenery though still tired, Vikum napped most of the way until our transit stop at the busy Glasgow bus station. Here we got another meal deal for lunch (our love affair with meal deals really starting to bloom at this point) but it was also where we had our first experience of not having enough coins to use paid bathrooms. We had be warned about this, but we still didn’t prep enough and still can’t get over how frustrating it is to only be able to find paid bathrooms. We figured it out and were very happy we’d booked seats onto the next bus as there were very long lines for Edinburgh. Once on another tidy modern bus, we watched Ratatouille on the iPad for the last leg to Edinburgh. The last hour or so of the journey was made much easier with such an astoundingly good film…I’d forgotten how good it was. On arrival to Edinburgh we used a luggage storage spot for the first time which was super useful, though a bit pricey. It worked well as we were much lighter while we made our way past buskers, the beautiful gardens and market stalls to see some of the colour from the Fringe festival. We listened to some Edinburgh audio guides together to help plan our next day while wandering the town and enjoying more good weather. We also scanned the local shops where I looked out for Kelly and McCall tartan, and happened upon my second magpie purchase; a “Heathergems” necklace with a pendant made out of the heather itself that we’d seen all over the moors on our time in Scotland so far. A reminder of what had been such a good part of the trip. We picked up our bags again at the station and got onto a train to our accommodation out in Aberdour: an adorable village about 30-40mins out of city. We’d booked two nights here a pretty long time in advance given how busy and expensive accommodation is during the Fringe in Edinburgh. It couldn’t have been a better choice as we got the most amazing B&B location and experience for the price of two hostel beds in the city centre (prices are crazily skewed during the Fringe). Plus the train station was close to the hotel and not really a long trip on the train itself at all. Our room at Forth View Hotel had a beautiful view of the forth looking back over at Edinburgh, the bedroom was cozy, the shower hot and most importantly…after 1 night in the car, plus two in tent with weird bedding arrangements…it had a proper bed. We felt like Kings. We also had a royal feast with dinner in the restaurant/dining room downstairs too. A table booked right by the window which was so special. It was the best food we’d eaten and would probably eat on this whole trip. The restaurant turned out to be award-winning and the food was unbelievable. As a seafood restaurant we ordered the local produce including lobster (I know 😱), sea bass and a taster board of seafood starters to get a diverse range of the produce. The meal had an amuse-bouche, palette cleansers and dessert. The whole nine yards. Our waiter Kyle had a pounamu taonga so we asked about it and he ended up being half kiwi. Plus despite growing up in Aberdour, he was flying to NZ in a few months for a long trip so we gave him tips and chatted a bit about his time in Scotland vs NZ. Also in the dining room we met a couple; Chris and Fiona who were from different parts of England and we chatted with them for a long time too. They had happened upon the restaurant during their travels to Edinburgh which we discussed, along with their past travels too - plenty had been around Europe, which was good for recommendations. There was then complimentary homemade shortbread and homemade fudge that we saved for the next night as we couldn’t eat even another wafer and hauled ourselves up the two flights of stairs to our room crashing after a very long but very luxurious day.Read more

  • Day 15

    A bit of history & a bit of hilarity

    August 11, 2023 in Scotland ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    Edinburgh during the Fringe is super busy but that’s not to say you can’t find quite alleys and calmer spots. Especially if you get into the city before lunch from the lovely planted Aberdour Station, which we did since it was our only full day exploring the city. We started by sourcing a coffee and found the first Long Black we’d seen on a cafe menu - V’s favourite coffee so we were hopeful…it unfortunately, did not pass the taste test. We took our coffees (my cappuccinos are generally better) and walked up the Royal Mile to the Edinburgh Castle where the line was already setting up for the first 9am booking. I’d decided a few days before that it wasn’t worth booking the entrance after having already seen some beautiful castles & palaces and planning on seeing a few more in France etc. so I was happy to have picked this super busy one to miss. Regardless, the castle is so epic from around the outside and I think the view of it from New Town area is the most impressive where you can see how it’s towering over the city, latched on the edge of the cliff. We wandered back through the Old Town past the Writer’s Museum, reading some quotes of poets (Vikum had been reciting the freedom speech from Braveheart so we of course had to get a photo with “Fredome is a noble thing” quote). As suggested on the local tour audio guides, we listened to the day prior we decided to head to the free National Museum of Scotland…and can I tell you. This is the coolest museum that ever museum’ed. I can not believe it is free, I think I could go back 100 times. Here we went through the levels of the ‘Scotland through time’ sections plus a scattering from the rest of the building before making our way into the Level 7 terrace at the top of the building which gave us almost 360 views over the city and surrounding hills/scenery, along with binoculars which was very cool. It was hot though. A really warm day, so we couldn’t stay on the roof too long. If not just because we’d bake but we were also getting hungry too so we wandered along the street to the Pie Maker bakery. Endless interesting and delicious flavours, so we grabbed 4 items and shared all of them: Original Scotch Pie, Haggis Roll, Macaroni Pie, and a Tradional Pasty. A first taste of haggis which was so yum though I’m not sure if it’s representative of what haggis is by itself. Guess I’ll need to go back to Scotland just to have more haggis, stand-alone. We then wandered some more where we watched a busker doing a one-man comedy basketball act which was somehow simultaneously very funny and anti-climactic, which I thought felt like the perfect experience of watching a busker at the Fringe. To really drive home the 100% Fringe Festival experience which I’d heard about for many many years through watching hours of British comedy…was randomly seeing two very popular comedians walking past us in the street after leaving the busking: Nish Kumar and Ed Gamble just wandering through Old Town past us. Gamble being one of the two hosts of my favourite weekly comedy-food podcast “Off Menu” and comedian that I had seen perform stand-up just a few months earlier in Auckland SkyCity. It felt surreal, not just because I’d now seen him literally on opposite sides of the world, but also because I’d literally just listened to the 200th episode of their podcast on the bus trip to Edinburgh a day earlier so I selfishly stopped them in the street, fangirling quickly to say hello, shake his hand and let him know I’d enjoyed the show he’d done on the other side of the world. Anyway, moving on we killed some time walking around the city, enjoying the sun at the park, and getting a bevvy at the university “Library Bar” that was recommended by cousin Livvy who just got accepted for uni entrance - hooray 🍻 And, followed that with the best shawarma ever before going to the comedy show I’d chosen the day prior in one of the “Bunkers” in the Pleasance Courtyard location. It was a good choice: a very funny and meaningful stand up hour “Darran Griffiths: Inconceivable” which was right up our alley and a great end to the day in Edinburgh. Finding our way back to the Waverley Station we headed back to Aberdour where we had a stunning view of the bright sunset reflecting off the firth from our train on one of the 3 huge bridge crossings. Then more sun setting over the rolling hills, and a calm seaside walk back to our hotel. We enjoyed the shortbread and fudge we’d saved from the night prior with a cup of tea and headed to bed before an early start to catch our taxi booked for the airport drop-off.Read more

  • Day 16

    Brainport Eindhoven

    August 12, 2023 in the Netherlands ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

    We flew from Edinburgh to Eindhoven, catching a taxi to the airport after realising no public transport was working early enough to get us to the airport in time for our flight. Our flight was then delayed multiple times…😆. This was alright; the taxi was a lot easier for moving our big packs and now we had a tent too and it gave Vikum time to call his family and for us to wander the airside shops. Edinburgh Airport is smaller than expected but tidy and comfortable. We got on our RyanAir flight at midday and sat next to a Dutch man on his way back home after spending time watching the Cycling World Champs in Scotland. He was very direct, happy and interested in skiing/cycling…so very Dutch, which set the tone for when we landed in Eindhoven where the bag drop was unbelievably efficient and the welcome friendly. There at the gate to pick us up was Paul Vorselen, with a big smile and a kiss to welcome us to Eindhoven. It had been 6 years since seeing Paul, Myra and Tom - my flatmate in university accommodation when he travelled to NZ for a study exchange but it felt like just yesterday their family was staying in Hamilton with us on their travels through the North Island. Paul drove back to their home where another warm welcome was given by Myra who had a warm hug and lunch all prepared for us on arrival. We chatted about all the food that already included lots of new things we hadn’t eaten before and we also caught up on what life looked like for Paul and Myra in Eindhoven. Before long, it was time for Paul, V and I to head to the Phillips Stadium for the PSV vs Utrecht match. On the way, we walked through one of the central suburbs which used to be an industrial area that had been transformed into modern apartments and recreational areas which was a cool modern space, but unfairly to Paul and Myra - their great tour guiding didn’t all all get remembered clearly as I (H) was already knackered after our travel day. It started a bit hazy but after I knocked back a red bull my energy came back enough to enjoy the football, which was a beginning game of the Eredivisie season. Because it was an early games it was also described as being “a slow game”, however, in spite of this, the crowd seemed very lively to two kiwis who’d never been to a European football match before…the fan chants loud and drums never stopping. Vikum braved the long lines in the merch shop to pick his (early) birthday gift - this seasons’ PSV uniform shirt. While Paul wrangled me a PSV scarf so we fit right in at the fan seating area that Tom had bought us tickets for using his and his friends’ season access passes (we have been very lucky with all the great hosting and hookups that Paul, Myra and Tom have organised for us!!). PSV won the match 2-0 which meant the supporters came away happy and we left the stadium very tired after a long day of travel, adjusting to the language, walking/driving on the right side, and other minor cultural differences like the outdoor urinals setup in public right outside the stadium. Luckily Myra picked us up, and took us home again where we had an amazing harissa chicken Moroccan meal. The home-cooking really helped us over the line until we checked in for the night in Tom’s room while he was finishing his holiday in France. His Eindhoven return booked for the next evening.Read more

  • Day 17

    Bokhoven, Hedikhuizen, & Heusden

    August 13, 2023 in the Netherlands ⋅ ☁️ 24 °C

    Myra and Paul had planned a day for us to see Heusden: a classic Dutch fortified harbour settlement and we went on a scenic tour of the countryside to get there. Myra, having gone to Heusden a week or so prior to meet with her sister, had staked out the good places and even collected some maps and brochures for us as “pre-reading” in the car. I practiced using the Google Translate app while starting to try to pick up de Nederlandse. Along the drive we saw a ‘mini camping’ spot along the dyke of the river Maas (Bokhoven), and stopped to meet a very friendly horse who ran down to meet me on the roadside at Hedikhuizen. We also drove past these super interesting housing precincts that had been styled as if they were modern castles - very creative suburban design. When arriving at Heusden we strolled by the marina and came upon a windmill that was turning. It was being managed by a local historical preservation group and Paul and Myra sweet talked us into being able to climb up the mill to have a look at how it functioned inside…it wasn’t even that windy and the whole body of the mill was already swaying under the pressure of the sail (the blade without the canvas over it). It was very impressive and Paul talked us through how it would be used to grind the flour/grain if it was all moving inside too. After carefully slinking down the ladder again - it felt steeper going down - we walked around the beautiful old town, through the vismarkt (fish market) & “vis bank” which had cool history and had now been modernised into terrace cafe/restaurants, galleries and shops. We had the most delicious cakes (the first time I realised appeltaart was a huge thing in Holland, and how good at cake they are) and coffee…oh the koffie 🤤! It was the first really good coffee we’d had in weeks and Vikum made sure to learn which menu item to order next time. We enjoyed walking the rest of Heusden, the classic 17th century Dutch architecture, the fortified towers around the village, and a lovely bright art gallery devoted to tulips & floral abstracts. It was also a hot day so V and I started to tire, the heat plus 2 weeks of travel meant we fell asleep in the car on the way home. We arrived home, hazily and Myra kindly included some of our washing into her loads so we were off the hook, with time to rest until Tom was due home in the evening. Tom and his flatmate Nout arrived home after driving 8hrs from their holiday in France, in time to eat dinner with us and tell us about their time in Chologne which looked really cool. The area around Grenoble looks like it has awesome destinations…
    It was so nice to see Tom after 6 years and catch up over the following week, including seeing him start his own business and all the excitement he has for the opportunities ahead of him. But really it felt like nothing much had changed, we still laugh at the same things.

    From here the plan was to spend Paul’s birthday in Eindhoven until Monday, head to Amsterdam to stay at Tom’s house there from Tue-Thu, and then come back to Eindhoven for the weekend following and see where we’d go from there.
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