South America

March 2023 - May 2024
An open-ended adventure by Little House On Wheels Read more
Currently traveling
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  • 3countries
  • 413days
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  • 1.6kmiles
  • 426miles
  • Day 13

    Uh oh!

    April 8, 2023 in Chile ⋅ ☀️ 82 °F

    The little house stalled on the road and then died completely. Mike and Geneva saved the day towing us to a safe place up the road and helping us troubleshoot. After quite a bit of time under the hood in the heat of the day Sam and Mike swapped out the oil filter and she’s up and running again. (Guess I’ve decided she’s a she ha ha.) Hopefully this fix holds at least long enough to get us back to the city. We still have a check engine light on, but with the holiday we'll have to make it until Monday. The adventure has begun!! 😆🤓🥳Read more

  • Day 13

    Vulcan

    April 8, 2023 in Chile ⋅ ☀️ 79 °F

    When you buy your first house there are so many things you need to learn to take care of it. This little house on wheels is no different. Separate from the stalling we found this morning before heading out that the value stem was leaking on one of our back tires. Mike and Geneva helped us track down a place along our route that was open on Holy Saturday (the day before Easter). The first place we tried was closed, but a man came out from an adjacent house and told us his brother owned the shop and he would call him for us. After a brief chat with his brother he explained that his aunt had passed away so he wouldn't be able to help. I'm not sure if he was just getting the news right then (our limited Spanish didn't allow for full clarity), but we offered condolences and he directed us to another place near by that was able to help.Read more

  • Day 15

    Dinner with Friends

    April 10, 2023 in Chile ⋅ 🌙 63 °F

    Tonight we had dinner with some new friends. We met the husband at the photo walk meetup we attended a couple of weeks ago. He is a Venezuelan immigrant to Chile and so naturally Sam asked him where we could get some good arepas. When he reached out to see if we managed to make it to the place he recommended, we said no but asked if he’d join us for some when we returned to Santiago.

    We had a great time with Gabriel and Yamilla exchanging tales in a mix of Spanish and English. We agreed to stay in touch and meetup again for dinner at their place the next time we’re in town.
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  • Day 17

    Cacao

    April 12, 2023 in Chile ⋅ ☁️ 59 °F

    This morning after my morning chores (which included changing the urine container for the first time - a little ick, but not as bad as I expected), I took the time to make a cup of cocoa. Some of you might know that last month I had the opportunity to spend 2 weeks in Guatemala learning about the Mayan Cosmovision and learning to facilitate cocoa ceremony from Izabel & Izaias Perez, healers, teachers and keepers of the ancient Mayan wisdom traditions. This training which usually draws little more than a handful of people, was the largest they had ever done. 35 students from various places around the global gathered in the tiny village of San Marcos on the shores of Lake Atitlan, about 3.5 hours from Guatemala City. (San Marcos turned out to be a surprisingly interesting place, but I'll have to tell you more about that another time.)

    I had a lot of reservations about going to this training. First and foremost I am not Mayan, which raised a lot of questions for me. Is it appropriate for me to be learning this sacred tradition? If I decided to put into practice what I've learned is it a betrayal of my own culture in some way? Is it cultural misappropriation for me to participate in and share these traditions? I expressed these concerns with to both my teachers and my friend Ixchel who invited me to take the course with her.

    We are living at an interesting time in history. Not only do we have the gift of increased global connectedness, it's also the case that now more that any other time in history that I'm aware of, that the wisdom keepers from indigenous populations around the world are beginning to open up and share their teachings. Maybe it's more true that 'we' as a global community have reached a greater level of respect and appreciation for indigenous cultures, which allows for this greater openness.

    One of the things I appreciated most about the training was the constant reminder that everything is sacred - the trees, the insects, the land, the lake, the mountains, the volcanos, the person sharing this tiny house with me :)... In our training and in the everyday life of my teachers, every day is a ceremony. I have a tricky past with ceremony and ritual. Mostly in my life I've avoided and resisted it. In my desire not to conform or participate mindlessly in things that don't make sense to me I've opted out, even to the point of not having a wedding ceremony. I'm finding more and more in my life though, an inner call toward ceremony. This was one of the things that drew me to this course.

    So all of that is back story for this morning's cup of cocoa. My morning started off a little off kilter and my assigned chores definitely didn't help : ). Instead of pushing into the day with all of the things that needed to be done I took a pause and asked what was needed. And what a blessing it was to have cocoa.

    Like meditation the ceremony begins with intention and the primary intention is to engage the presence of love within and around us all the times. As I grind the cocoa I go back in my mind to fields where the cocoa I am using was grown. We did a ceremony there beneath the trees during my training. I give thanks for families we met that tend the trees, pick the cocoa when it's ready, and prepare the seeds for fermentation. I give thanks for the women who sorted, roasted and shelled the seeds by hand. Even though I'm only preparing cocoa for me (Sam was off to the hardware store) every step is taken with love and gratitude. I recognized in this process how much more care I put into things I do for others relative to things I do just for myself. I felt really good take sure care just for me.

    When finished preparing the cocoa, I offer a prayer before drinking, taking a moment to be grateful for the sacredness of the moment and for this amazing opportunity I have to be at the start of a new journey. I gave thanks for my parents, my children, my siblings and all of my family and friends. For my grandmother who inspired and passed down the love of travel to 3 generations of journeyers. I pray for success and wellbeing and abundance for each my children, and all of the young people in my life. I pray for health, wellbeing and ease for my parents. I pray blessing for the beautiful country of Chile and for the Chilean people. And I prayed for those we have met and will met along our journey. I pray that in this 120 sqft of living space Sam and I learn to be sweeter and sweeter to one another. And I pray for myself, for my continued health, for greater clarity, vision, and purpose and for enhanced language learning abilities fast (haha).

    With all those intentions in my cocoa I drank. It was delicious and exactly what I needed to get my day moving in the right direction. After I finished I looked up today's Nahual, the energy of the day according to the Mayan calendar (usually done before the cocoa, but better later than never). Today is K'at, the day of the spider, the day of connectedness, the day to weave the web of life, to capture your dreams, a day of fertility and abundance, a day to remember the ancestors. Maybe it was the energy of K'at that called me to ceremony.

    (Above are some pics from my Guatemala trip.)
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  • Day 17

    Reunion

    April 12, 2023 in Chile ⋅ ☁️ 70 °F

    I met Soledad 37 years ago during a month long program called the Children of War Peace Tour which brought together young people from war torn countries all over the world to raise awareness and inspire peace.

    I was 14 at that time and my experiences with COW shaped so much of my life. It was such a joy to see Soledad. I was inspired then and still am now by her courage and strength. I’m looking forward to spending more time with her and her family when we return to Santiago.
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  • Day 20

    Mobile Starlink!

    April 15, 2023 in Chile ⋅ ☀️ 66 °F

    Today I completed our first big camper project: I mounted our Starlink dish on the roof of the camper!

    Consistent internet access is a big part of what makes this trip possible for us. One can manage to stay connected in some places with 4G mobile data and with wifi in others, but there are many areas where neither can be found.

    Enter Starlink, the satellite internet company owned by Elon Musk. Starlink has become a game changer for many, offering fast internet access almost anywhere, at a very reasonable cost. This would definitely be the case for us. I did my first video podcast interviews using Starlink this week and it performed very well, though I do wish it offered faster upload speeds.

    Shortly before we left for South America, Starlink announced new Roam plans that fit our needs well. I ordered the new Flat High Performance dish several weeks in advance of our departure, but just before leaving I realized that it couldn’t actually be used with the Global Roam plans the way I thought. So I left it to be sent back and crossed my fingers that I'd be able to figure something out when we got to Santiago. Turns out not only was it easy to order to where we were staying, but I saved about half off both the upfront cost of the dish and the monthly service fees.

    The dish as shipped is designed to be portable. The dish has a mast attached to it that slips into a stand. There are motors inside the dish that aim it towards the Starlink satellite constellation when it turns on.

    There are a couple of challenges with the standard setup for our needs. First, it needs to be set up when you arrive at your destination and torn down when you hit the road. I was able to get the setup and tear-down process down to only a few minutes, but it was still a bit annoying. (I know, first world problems.) Plus we needed to store it when we were driving, and it’s a bit bulky. Finally, because the setup was only temporary, we’d have wires running out our roof hatch when the dish was deployed. The other big one is that you can’t use it while driving.

    So, I knew from the beginning that I’d ultimately want to mount it on the roof of the camper.

    I initially found a guy who I thought might be able to build me something, but when he quoted me a price that was equal to what I paid for the dish I took a pass on that option and decided to build it myself.

    A quick trip to the hardware store told me what I had to work with: Aluminum angle extrusion was plentiful and pretty cheap, and would be easy to work with.

    I put my engineering education to work and sketched out a mount. I then figured out what materials I’d need and went shopping. (Just like any home improvement project, I made at least four trips to the hardware store.)

    We have a decent collection of tools that came with the rig, so I didn’t need to buy anything major to complete the project.

    The basic structure was finished in one long day and turned out pretty much how I’d envisioned and sketched it. Over the subsequent few days I mounted it to a crossbar on the roof, installed the dish in it, and completed the installation by routing the Starlink cable from the router inside the camper, through cabinets and the camper’s sidewall, up to the roof, and then under a solar panel and across to the dish.

    The scariest part of the project was drilling a hole into the back of the dish itself, which is necessary to disable the motors. There’s a very active Starlink Hacks group on Facebook and others before me had determined that the dish performs fine if mounted flat with the motors disabled, as well as where you need to drill to easily access the motor connector.

    I finished running the cable to the dish just in time for a long drive towards the Andes mountains. The dish worked great on the road, though unfortunately in-motion use isn’t supported by Starlink and could be shut down at any time. We’ll enjoy it while it lasts.
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  • Day 21

    Hosed!

    April 16, 2023 in Chile ⋅ 🌙 54 °F

    Yesterday we ran into more car problems on our way to the Andes and Argentina. Similar to our previous issues, all of a sudden we lost power and stalled out. Fortunately, since we were rolling solo this time, we were on a local road and able to easily coast to the shoulder.

    Losing power is unfortunately a familiar experience with this rig, and my immediate fear was that replacing the fuel regulator didn't work, and we were back to square one chasing down an unknown problem.

    I jumped out of the van to see what I might be able to figure out. I immediately noticed a strong diesel smell. Squatting down to look at the ground under the engine revealed a fluid leak of some sort. I reached down to touch some but it wasn't clear what it was--it looked like oil but smelled and felt like a mix of oil and diesel.

    I opened the hood next, but nothing jumped out at me beyond the strong smell of diesel. I investigated a bit more by the light of my phone, to no avail. Then I asked Khalilah to turn the key, which would start the fuel pump. If the leak was diesel related, I might see it continue to leak to the ground.

    A couple of seconds after the key was turned, the pump turned on and the problem was clear. Fuel was streaming from a hose on top of the engine.

    As crazy as it might sound considering the circumstances, what I felt next was relief and gratitude more than anything else. This was a clear problem with an easy fix. What's more, it could have happened in a much worse place, like that mile-long tunnel on a steep grade we'd just passed through.

    Khalilah, along with Mike and Geneva who had been about 30 minutes behind us, set about trying to find some fuel hose, while I worked to loosen the Mercedes click clamps without the Mercedes tool typically required. I was eventually successful with this task.

    Finding a replacement hose proved more difficult. A passerby directed them down the street to what amounted to a very basic truck stop where they met Zuko, the facility's friendly and helpful caretaker/security guard who happened to speak good English. He looked at the fuel hose and cut a piece of the air hose that they use to fill truck tires, and gave it to them, suggesting that we use it to get going and drive the rig over there to get off the main road.

    Mike and Geneva then took a trip into town to see if the local auto parts store had the hose, while Khalilah and I got the air hose installed and drove over to the lot.

    The auto parts store was a bust, and pretty much our only shot at not spending the rest of the weekend at the truck stop, since all of this unfolded late in the afternoon on Saturday.

    To be continued...

    ✌🏼
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  • Day 24

    Surrender

    April 19, 2023 in Chile ⋅ ☀️ 81 °F

    A while back a friend recommended a book by Micheal Singer called The Surrender Project. I really love his book The Untethered Soul (well worth a read), but hadn’t read this one. As the name might suggest, he tells the story of how amazing his life turns out when he makes it a spiritual practice to pay attention to what life offers and embraces it. We all have our plans and preferences, but Micheal decided that rather than giving in to personal wants and desires he would flow with life, recognizing that the divine plan is so much bigger than he could see in the moment and so much grander than he could have imagined. This didn’t mean that he didn’t have challenges, but the rewards were great and he was constantly called to give his best. And that’s the spirit in which we’re embracing this trip.

    
My Mom always says everything that happens when you travel is a part of the adventure and that’s definitely the case here. Every new challenge gives us the opportunity to let go of our expectations and find the beauty, grace and magic in the moment. We saw this over the weekend. We were so thankful that we stalled before we were high in the mountains on a switchback. We also stalled just down the road from a “truck stop” where we made a great friend, Zuko, who looked out for us and made sure we had everything we needed. I included some pics from the truck stop which despite being quite rudimentary had beautiful sunsets, a surprisingly beautiful river running behind it, a food truck, and showers that were only slightly scary.

    We're continuing our surrender journey with some wild accomodations for the night. We'll post a video telling you all about it tomorrow.
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