Réinitialiser la recherche
Camino PortugueseCamino Portuguese
SatelliteModifier l’itinéraire

Camino Portuguese

avril - juin 2023
Backpacking the Camino Portuguese from Lisbon to Santiago de Compostela followed by visits to Madrid, Seville and Barcelona En savoir plus
  • 53empreintes
  • 3pays
  • 45jours
  • 746photos
  • 1vidéos
  • 9,2kmiles
  • 4,4kmiles
  • 4,3kmiles
  • 40miles
S’abonner Calendrier Partager Liste de choses à faire
Date ascendante
  • Camino Portuguese
    Jour 13

    Day 8 Alvaiazere to Rabacal

    3 mai 2023, Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 75 °F

    Today was a lot like yesterday - forests, hills, olive trees, vineyards, flowers, small towns, and suburban neighborhoods. And 20+ miles! Beautiful terrain, truly only appreciated with the naked eye. I missed a photo opportunity this morning. An older woman was walking her goats down the road. I didn't want to take her picture without her permission and when we got closer enough, the goats jumped to the field. The picture reflected the old Portuguese. In the next town, there were new builds and rehabs of older buildings taking place and the making of a newer, contemporary Portuguese. We spent part of our day walking with Senti (South Africa), Connie and Lizbeth (Denmark), and Laura and Fortal (Mexico).

    We are starting at a wonderful Alberque and met Alex from Germany. Alex was originally from Essen. He was surprised we knew of it and had been there. Alex is a Packers fan but has friends who are Steelers fans, complete with terrible towels.

    We had dinner with Dan and Heather (Maine). Dan is in the Merchant Marines and basically works 70 days on and 70 days off. This trip is part of his 70 days off - they do not have a return flight booked.

    And green wine is delicious! (It's not really green or from green grapes - look it up!)

    Highlight: A man was getting oranges from his tree and offered us two. They were delicious!!

    Late in the day, we encountered our first rain shower since being in Portugal. It wasn't too long or too hard. Today was much cooler (mid 70s), which made the trek easier.

    It is great that, despite language barriers we are able to communicate with other pilgrims and the locals. Of course, being able to speak English is a great benefit. However, many locals on the smaller towns do not speak English, and the Mexicans we have traveled with know very little.

    Things that I, Jeff, am grateful for:
    - that Eileen and I are physically able to do this, despite it being hard/tiring
    - that Eileen is willing to do this Camino.
    - that we have the means to do it.

    When we get to the last hour or two of these 20 miles days, it is easy to ask yourself "Why?". Not sure that i have a good answer for that yet but I think it is good to test your limits and get out of your comfort zone.    En savoir plus

    Voir la traduction
  • Camino Portuguese
    2
    Jour 14

    Day 9 - to Coimbra

    4 mai 2023, Portugal ⋅ 🌙 64 °F

    Another cooler (70s) but mostly sunny day that made it feel warmer. We hiked about 18.75 miles. While there weren't at many elevation changes as the two previous days, there was enough to keep us challenged.

    Our first cafe stop was at the museum at Conimbriga, 7 - 8 miles into our day. There are remains of a Roman settlement there. We stayed at the cafe longer than we should have, closed to an hour - which included a delicious sandwich. While there we spoke with Alex (German) along with Dan and Heather (USA). The Siberians also showed up while we were there. Really haven't spoken with them much and don't know there names - so i (Jeff) decided to nickname them Boris and Natasha.

    Surprisingly we didn't see our Mexican travelers after we left the hostel this morning, and they appeared to be ready to leave shortly after us. Just before heading into our room in Coimbra this evening, we did see one of them on the street, although she was on a phone call so we didn't talk.

    Coimbra is an ancient town with multiple churches dating back to the 11th and 12th centuries. Wish we were spending an extra day here to explore.    En savoir plus

    Voir la traduction
  • Camino Portuguese
    Jour 15

    Day 10 Coimbra to Sernadelo

    5 mai 2023, Portugal ⋅ 🌙 63 °F

    It was a pretty boring day. It was shorter than our usual day, only 16 miles today. Unfortunately, all but about 4 miles were on roads. The best part was leaving Coimbra along the river.

    We hate walking on roads. There is not always a berm to walk on and you have to stay alert. But, we still managed to take in a few pretty sights. The people along the Camino are very nice and very aware of the Camino. Yesterday, when we were at intersections looking at our book or our app, trying to confirm which way to go, some random person walking by said "Camino?" and then pointed in the right direction. Today we started up a hill and there were two ladies outside having a chat. As we got closer they started talking to us very excitedly in Portuguese. We thought they were cheering us on. Then they started shooing us away from them and pointing. Yep, we had missed a turn. I don't believe in coincidences so I am thankful for these people being in the right place at the right time!

    We spent some extra time at the cafes chatting with other pilgrims. The Mexicans joined up with a pilgrim from Spain and one from Puerto Rico. They are carrying flags from their countries and they were having fun!

    For those who care, neither one of us took an Aleve today so the aches and pains are getting less!! And on a blister count, it's Eileen - 3, Jeff - 1, all on toes and all healing well.    En savoir plus

    Voir la traduction
  • Camino Portuguese
    Jour 16

    Day 11 - Sernadelo to Agueda

    6 mai 2023, Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 72 °F

    Today was an almost perfect Camino day. There was cloud cover, with a light rain this morning, cooler temperatures, several cafe stops, and only 15.5 miles. With the exception of a section of an industrial zone, the walk went through lots of towns and suburbs. It was all on roads again but today there were plenty of sidewalks and wide berms. The suburbs have refurbished old houses into beautiful neighborhoods.

    Earlier this week someone said that the Camino had a way of hiding pilgrims! Today we didn't see any of our old friends until we reached our accommodations. Depending on when you start, how long you stop, and how fast you walk, many people can be on the trail and never see each other. Last night we were philosophically comparing the Camino to life. (Maybe it was the wine!). Like in life, we have met many people - some just in passing, some for a while, and some for the distance (so far). There are plenty of people that we have seen around, know that they are on the same journey, but have not had the opportunity to speak with them. Then there are those that we got to know and enjoyed their company, but our time with them wasn't to be long. Jeff (California) and Senid (South Africa) were both in their 70's and said they know their limits. They were only doing 10-12 miles a day. Alex (Germany) also was only doing short distances. He is only 50 but had overworked himself the last couple of years and is using the Camino to teach himself to slow down. We knew when we left them that we will probably not see them again but we thoroughly enjoyed meeting them.

    Then there are the people that are currently on the same path as us sometimes even staying in the same places. These are the people that you daily share the highs and lows of each day, encouragement, and even a glass of beer. How long this will go on we don't know. There are many more miles and many more pilgrims to meet. What role each plays for us is yet to be seen. Maybe a few of them will become lifetime friends! Stay tuned as this chapter keeps evolving!

    Today, we meet Luis who spends have his time in northern California and half in southern Mexico. He and his wife have been doing this for 6 years. He says live in Mexico has less stress, 70 -80 degrees year round, and are able to have a housekeeper and a gardener. I think he said this is his 4th Camino. Luis did not appear to be 50 yet.

    We have heard lots of church bells as we travel, some even out of tune. Hearing the bells reminds me (Jeff) of hearing the bells from st. Michaels every 15 minutes when i was young.    En savoir plus

    Voir la traduction
  • Camino Portuguese
    Jour 17

    Day 12 - to Branca

    7 mai 2023, Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 73 °F

    We hiked 16.8 miles under sunny skies with temps in the low 70s with a wonderful breeze. A lot of it was on roads but we also had some woodland scenery.

    We met a mother and daughter (Caitlyn) from New Zealand. Mom had done the Frances Camino 11 years earlier. Caitlyn had invited her mother along on the Camino and mom jumped at the opportunity.

    Today we saw many hundreds (likely over 1000) pilgrims on their way to Fatima for the annual celebration that takes place on May 13. Most were in large groups supported by vans with food and gear. None of them were carrying packs. Some were singing, dinner saying the rosary, some carrying banners, most just walking with their church groups and socializing. Fatima is going to be hopping on Thursday!

    Twice we passed people playing "American" music - We are the Champions, and Hey Jude. We smiled and started singing along!

    As we neared our destination, we looked for a place to get some minimal food for the morning. We like to have some things on hand because some mornings we have traveled 6 - 8 miles before finding an open cafe. We weren't finding anywhere as we headed out of the small town when a lady in one of the Fatima supply vans asked if we wanted an apple (maca) as we walked by. When i said yes, she opened the back of the van and handed me two oranges, then two apples. She then asked if we wanted bananas and i said yes. Before she got the bananas, c she asked if we wanted cake, which I said yes. She cut us 2 big slices off a pound cake (which we immediately ate) and then proceeded to hand us 4 bananas. So, we weren't able to buy what we were looking for but it was provided - more than enough to see us through tomorrow morning.

    Tonight is our first night in a shared room in true pilgrim fashion. We were to be in a room with 4 but Paulo had to improvise too accommodate everyone. Because of the Fatima pilgrimage, there are tons of people looking for accommodations. I will be sleeping on a fold out couch. A group dinner (28 people) will be served at 1930 (7:30).

    Our roommates included Luis and Fia, asking with a man we never met.    En savoir plus

    Voir la traduction
  • Camino Portuguese
    1
    Jour 18

    Day 13 to Malaposta

    8 mai 2023, Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 57 °F

    Before we talk about today, let us tell you about last night. Casa Catolica is the best pilgrim experience!!. Paulo welcomed us, showed us the kitchen with fresh drinks and snacks, where to do laundry and hang in the garden, our room, the hammocks, and invited us to make ourselves at home. Oh yeah, and dinner was at 7:30. Casa Catolica is between towns so there is no where to go to eat or to shop for groceries. We showered and then socialized with the other pilgrims.

    We met a wonderful couple, Eddie and Elizabeth from Cleveland, Ohio and Fia (Fiona) from Ireland. Fia is only 28 years old and travels for a living. She goes somewhere and works, saves money, and then travels somewhere new. She spent the last two Christmas seasons in Lapland, Finland as an elf in the magical ice castle. On the Camino she spends some nights sleeping in her hammock in the woods or behind an abandoned building. She thinks she wants to settle down and she is using the Camino to figure out what she wants to do. She has been in 27 countries.

    Paulo runs the Alberque. He definitely has a gift for hospitality. He knew everyone staying there by name and would give you the shirt off of his back if you needed it. He usually has about 8 pilgrims a night, but tonight, because of the Fatima pilgrimage, there were 22 pilgrims there last night. He made room for as many as possible, putting mattresses on the floor. He even made sure that Jeff and I had beds and not bunk beds or on the floor, because we were older! There were 25 people for dinner from at least 5 different countries. What an experience! We had meat, vegetables, potatoes, eggs, bread, olives, wine, dessert, and an homemade orange after-dinner liquor. And all for a donation. It was a lot of fun. If you ever want a Camino experience without the walking, volunteer at an Alberque like this one!

    Today was what is becoming a usual day. A lot of street walking, mostly through suburbs, though we did walk on some authentic roman roads from at least the 15th centuries. We did 17.1 miles today and a lot of very tall hills. It was in the low 70's and there was a nice breeze. We are staying at a hotel as there are few accommodations between here and Porto.

    We had a fantastic seafood dinner for two, a bottle of wine, appetizers, and after dinner drink for about $55 .

    Many pilgrims take a taxi from here to Porto because tomorrow involves a lot of main road walking. We intend to walk it all but we reserve the right to take a cab if the road conditions are not safe.    En savoir plus

    Voir la traduction
  • Camino Portuguese
    11
    Jour 19

    Day 14 Malaposta to Porto

    9 mai 2023, Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 64 °F

    Since we were staying in a pretty nice hotel, we decided to sleep in and take advantage of their breakfast before we started, therefore we got a little later start today. There was a light rain when we started and the morning was mostly overcast making for nice hiking. There was also a nice breeze all day even when the sun came out making for a pretty delightful day. Unfortunately, the scenery was pretty boring. Think about walking around your suburban neighborhoods for 17 miles. That's what today was. We saw nice areas, run down areas, some shops, restaurants, and some businesses all on cobble stone roads, then repeat. We had a little bit of eucalyptus wooded area and one monastery for a little variety, but really pretty boring. We added some steps and a hill because we missed an arrow! But walking into Porto made up for it. What a beautiful city! We are taking a two day rest from walking so we can explore the city of Porto.

    We saw our Mexican friends early in the day once but that was it for anyone we knew. Saw very few pilgrims going our way.

    This week in Porto, students at that university are celebrating the end of the year of studies. There was a parade today (before we got here) and the square we had to walk through had thousands of students wearing top hats and canes as well as the traditional school robe. The color of their hat reflected their course of study. They have activities planned for the week.

    Trivia note - JK Rowling spent two years in Porto after her mom died. There were many Portuguese influences that have appeared in her Harry Potter books, including the cloaks that university students wear.    En savoir plus

    Voir la traduction
  • Camino Portuguese
    1
    1
    Jour 20

    Day 15 Rest day in Porto

    10 mai 2023, Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 66 °F

    What do you do on a rest day? Take a walking tour of the city of course - only a few miles, seeing the major sights, and learning some history. There were at least 8 countries represented in the group of 25 on our tour.

    While visiting the Se Cathedral, we heard music. The Penn State Glee Club was having a rehearsal in the church. They were performing there in the evening and then three other places in Portugal this week. What a surprise!

    Across the bridge from Porto is Gaia, a town where port wine is aged. We did port wine tasting in two different places. The first was a larger company called Taylor's. The setting was a rose garden with peacocks and a friendly rooster. It was very peaceful and you easily forgot where you were. The second was a family run place called Quevedo with a neighborhood home feeling. Both had good port wine.

    Porto is built in a hill along the river. Gaia is along the river on the other side. There is a lot of walking up hills or taking Ubers which we did to go to dinner and back to our guest house.

     There are two dishes that Porto is known for. Francesinha is a bread with steak, two kinds of sausage, cheese, another slice of bread, covered with a slightly spicy sauce and then can be topped with a fried egg. Jeff has had this twice. The other is tripe stew, yet to be tasted. Otherwise, there is a lot of fish on the menus.    En savoir plus

    Voir la traduction
  • Camino Portuguese
    Jour 21

    Day 16 - more resting in Porto

    11 mai 2023, Portugal ⋅ 🌬 70 °F

    A somewhat lazy day in Porto, a lot less walking than yesterday. But that changes tomorrow, looking at about 18 miles. The weather has been fantastic and the forecast continues to look good.

    We started off with a trip to the big Porto market. The facility was renovated fairly recently so it doesn't look its age. We had some breakfast there and just browsed.

    The next stop was one on the fanciest McDonald's on the planet. It is in a historic location that once was occupied by a cafe. McDonald's was allowed to move in on the condition they maintain the original decor, including the crystal chandelier.

    Since we enjoyed the port wine tasting so much yesterday, we decided to take a 2 hour river cruise with port wine tasting. There were only 6 of us (plus 2 crew) on the boat including a couple from Russia now living in southern Portugal and a couple from England in for a week vacation.

    We ate dinner at a restaurant right next to where we are staying then went across the street to Bonaparte's for a drink.    En savoir plus

    Voir la traduction