• JoeLeas Adventures

JoeLea’s Indian Adventure

We’re celebrating Joe’s 60th birthday by driving an auto-rickshaw from Jaisalmer to Kerala, India. We’ve got 14 days to make it from start to finish, with every adventure imaginable en route. Weiterlesen
  • The Legend of Ricky JoeVolpe Bobby

    13. Januar 2023 in Indien ⋅ ☁️ 30 °C

    Joe came out of the bathroom this morning and had shaved to make his sideburns look conspicuously like Ricky Bobby, the Will Farrell character in Talladega Nights (The Legend of Ricky Bobby). If you don’t know who that is, watch the movie before you read this. Or at least Google it.

    Our goal was to make it from Udupi to Kozhikode in one day. That’s a drive of about 300 kilometers but we wanted to get it done so we could make it to Kochi (our final destination) by January 14 (one day before the Rickshaw Run officially ends). We passed by a statue of Gandhi as an auspicious start to the drive.

    What we didn’t know prior to heading out in the morning was that the ENTIRE stretch of highway we had to drive on was part of a massive construction project that I am sure has been going on for years. Literally every meter of the drive was either on old road that was partially shut down in one direction, new road that was partially finished, diverted road, or just crap road with no lines and no rules.

    That eight hour long drive can only be described as a harrowing kamikaze shit show that was essentially like being on an eight hour long Ride of Terror at Disney, except it was actually real. It was a constant game of chicken and a battle of psychological warfare with opponents who wanted to take your photo as they cut you off in chaotic traffic.

    New Jersey Joe, also known now in India as Ricky JoeVolpe Bobby, was in his element. He started out the drive saying “I just wanna go fast,” like Ricky says in the movie. By the end of the day he was still saying that.

    I am not sure how many Indian people in this part of the country understand what “dickhead” or “mother fucker” or “fuckwad” mean (pardon the curse words) but if they did understand those words, today didn’t bode well for India - US relations.

    I am currently experiencing the after effects of having extremely high levels of adrenaline coursing through my body for multiple hours. Extreme exhaustion, some dizziness. Mostly I am just happy to be alive. We came inches from being crushed by a bus several times and were almost t-boned by an oncoming car that spontaneously decided to turn left and assumed Joe would yield.

    It was all very stressful and tiring. But then, amidst some of the most dark and terrifying moments of the day, a guy would drive past us on a motorcycle or rickshaw and give Ricky JoeVolpe Bobby a thumbs up and look of what can only be described as immense respect.

    And so the legend of Ricky JoeVolpe Bobby started and will continue to live on in the hearts and minds of many long after we leave this wonderful country.

    Time for a gin and tonic.
    Weiterlesen

  • The Kozhikode Amusement Park

    13. Januar 2023 in Indien ⋅ ☁️ 29 °C

    We pulled up to the Woodie’s Bleisure Hotel at around 6 pm on Friday the 13th after one long, harrowing day of driving. Business plus leisure equals “Bleisure”. Clever. The rooms and the hotel looked good online.

    We checked in and asked where the bar was so we could enjoy a badly needed gin and tonic. “Oh, no bar, sir” said the concierge guy, smiling and wagging his head like only Indian people do when they are delivering bad news. “Okay, where is the restaurant so we can get a drink?” Joe asked.

    Turns out the Bleisure hotel was a dry hotel. That made absolutely no sense to us. I mean, when you travel for business and need some leisure isn’t alcohol involved?

    Anyways. Plan B ensued. We had a quick shower and asked the concierge for advice about where to get a gin and tonic and a meal. He recommended the Sea Queen Hotel near the beach. We arrived there thanks to a local rickshaw driver, whose driving Joe was commenting on the entire way, only to discover that due to the fact that the hotel manager’s son was getting married today, there was no alcohol available at the hotel. More smiles.

    The concierge guy there recommended we walk to the Beach Hotel down the road, only 100 meters, he said. Okay okay. On we went. Joe was eyeing a huge Ferris wheel and local amusement park on the beach that had been set up for the holiday season, it seems. “I’m not riding on that tonight,” I said. He kept walking.

    The Beach Hotel was a colonial relic that had been open since 1890. We had some food and drinks and performed our daily selfie responsibilities with various people there. One hammered guy in particular had fought in Afghanistan for an American squadron and regaled us with a few slurred speech stories about his Yankee commander.

    Kozhikode is a very ancient town in India. It was the capital of an independent kingdom ruled by the samoothiris (Zamorins) in the Middle Ages. Arab merchants traded with the region as early as the 7th century, and Portuguese explorer Vasco da Gama landed at Kozhikode on the 20th of May 1498 and opened the first trade route between Europe and India. The city was dubbed the City of Spices for its role as the major trading point for Indian spices and was a pivotal player in how world trade evolved a thousand plus years ago.

    As we finished dinner, Joe looked at me across the table and said “I’d like to ride the Ferris wheel before we head back to the hotel.” I stared at him in stunned disbelief. We had literally driven eight hours that day in a tin can with wheels along a treacherous highway filled with crazy Indian drivers.

    “Why on earth do you want to do that?” I asked patiently. “Because it will be fun, and we’re in India. How bad could it be?” he responded. “I don’t think that will be good for me,” I suggested gently. “Oh honey, it will be fun,” he prodded.

    So on we went to the amusement park. I don’t know how to describe an Indian carnival worker exactly. They were all very tired looking, except for the Ferris wheel guy. He was very engaged. And quite interested in why we were in India, and why we wanted to ride the Ferris wheel. I made Joe answer all those questions.

    We bought our tickets and stood in the line of the throngs of other eager Ferris wheel riders. Next to us was a pirate ship swinging back and forth. On the other side was a clown train going around in a circle. There was garbage everywhere and many children screaming happily, just like any amusement park anywhere I suppose.

    The Ferris wheel was propelled by three large wheels and what looked like a huge bicycle chain. I was worried it would all topple over while we were at the top.

    The carny guy tried to get us to ride with two other people but I refused so we got our own tiny little metal bucket to sit in. The door latch was a piece of yarn tied around the metal frame. One by one they loaded the new people into the bins as they let other people off. Then we took off. Up up up we went, creaking all the way. Then down down down and around and back up again.

    I’m not sure what happened to me, but on the second loop around I started laughing hysterically. I felt an extremely intense feeling of joy and relief and elation. Because here we were. Riding a Ferris wheel. In one of the ancient spice capitals of the world.
    Weiterlesen

  • Finding God. And the Finish Line.

    15. Januar 2023 in Indien ⋅ ☁️ 29 °C

    Today was our last full day in India that didn’t involve being in an airport. That all starts on Monday.

    I was a bit of an emotional mess today. I’ve figured out that it was a combination of feeling sad that our journey is over, elated that we’ve experienced something so incredible and meaningful, and really homesick and missing my dog. But I am also full of a sense of renewal and hope and optimism for the year ahead. So yeah, a wonderful mess.

    We got up early and visited the National Shrine Basilica of Our Lady of Ransom, Vallarpadam, which was a short drive from our hotel. That’s a long name. Here is the story.

    The Shrine is a major Christian pilgrimage centre and the most important Marian shrine in India. Around 5 million people visit the basilica every year. The Blessed Virgin Mary is known here as Vallarpadathamma, hence the name.

    The original church was built in 1524. In May 1752 a miracle took place which made the Shrine a centre of pilgrimage. In the local community there was a young lady named Meenakshi Amma, who was a member of a noble family. As she was sailing across the bay with her her son to Mattancherry (a local fort) a storm came up and the boat capsized. Meenakshi Amma and her son went deep down into the backwater. She promised to devote the rest of her life to the Virgin Mary’s service if she and her child were saved. Three days after the storm, the parish priest asked a local fishermen to cast a net in the river as he had been instructed in a dream, and Meenakshi Amma and her son were rescued. She and her son spent the rest of their lives in service to the church, sweeping the floors. Today people can pay to get a little broom and sweep the floors in their honor.

    The church and the environment there were incredibly peaceful and uplifting. We listened to the mass in Tamil and enjoyed the singing.

    After that we drove the rickshaw to the old town of Fort Kochi. We had to drive onto a little ferry to get there. Fort Kochi was the first European fort on Indian soil, ceded to Portugal in 1498 by the Raj and controlled by the Portuguese East Indies for many years. Prior to that it had been part of the spice route for centuries.

    While Joe was getting the tickets, an elderly man with a bad limp and a cane walked up to the rickshaw and asked me for money. I gave him the few coins I had in my purse. He kneeled in front of me and made the prayer sign with his hands and pointed up the sky as a sign of gratitude.

    We spent the day in Kochi doing some shopping and seeing the myriad of churches there. There were at least 10 of them. One had this huge, weird angel statue on the front of it that was actually pretty creepy. I mean, if you are going to build a statue thing that is supposed to be an angel, at least make it look angelic?

    We thought the official Rickshaw Run finish line was back near our hotel off the island, but thankfully we came across some other people doing the Run who told us that the finish line was actually just around the corner from where we had parked. We were so lucky that we figured that out! If we hadn’t we would have had to drive several hours back to our hotel and then all the way back to the island. Relief. We headed over there, driving Gina for the last time.

    The finish line experience didn’t disappoint. Everyone was there celebrating the achievement of making it to the end. Each team drove their rickshaw up a little ramp, had photos taken, received a model of their rickshaw, and handed in the keys. There was a little band playing drums and the mood was very festive. It was all kind of bittersweet and wonderful.

    After we were done we headed back to the hotel to get ready for the finish party, which was just down the road from where we were staying. We had a celebratory gin and tonic in the hotel bar, where we learned the life story of Noyal Joseph, the best bartender in India. He had been in a bad accident when he was 22 and had spent months in a coma and then being cared for by his community. He was a young man of deep faith in God who was full of well wishes for us and loved our rickshaw story. And he made one really good gin and tonic.

    All in all, a fitting last day filled with joy and connection that will live in our hearts for many years.

    Homeward bound!
    Weiterlesen

  • Airports

    17. Januar 2023 in den Niederlanden ⋅ ⛅ 1 °C

    I love airports. They are so great for people watching.

    You see all sorts of humanity in airports. People stressed out. Bored people. Tired people. People having fun. People window shopping. Upset people. Partying people. People hugging. People crying. People laughing. I could just sit for hours and watch people.

    Which is good, because we’ve spent a lot of time in airports and have more to go. Eight hours in Delhi airport. Six hours in Amsterdam airport. Will be four hours in JFK airport when we get to New York assuming everything is on time.

    And then the final leg home to Atlanta. Where my little dog Gia will be waiting eagerly in my office window for us to walk in the door after three weeks away from home.

    We are very grateful for Alice (our dog sitter) for being at the house and taking care of Gia and Bilbo the Bunny while we have been gone.

    Almost home!
    Weiterlesen

  • Ice, Ice Baby

    17. Januar 2023 in den USA ⋅ ☁️ 5 °C

    “Travel isn’t always pretty. It isn’t always comfortable. Sometimes it hurts, it even breaks your heart. But that’s okay. The journey changes you; it should change you. It leaves marks on your memory, on your consciousness, on your heart, and on your body. You take something with you. Hopefully, you leave something good behind.”
    - Anthony Bourdain

    So, we made it back to the US after 20+ hours of traveling. The craziest story about the flight home was that the KLM stewardess in business class was a friend of one of the guys from the Netherlands who was also on the Rickshaw Run. Talk about a small world.

    One more flight home from JFK to Atlanta. Then back to work tomorrow!

    I’m having a glass of water. With ice.

    We can’t wait to see our kids (the human ones, as well as the fur ones) and it will be good to be home and make some of our own food. It’s been a while!

    We are so thankful for this opportunity to experience a wonderful country in a unique way.

    Hey Joe, where should we go next?

    :)
    Weiterlesen

    Ende der Reise
    17. Januar 2023