Hawaii & West Coast, 1992

June - July 1992
A 34-day adventure by Joel Read more
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  • Waikiki, HI

    June 14, 1992 in the United States ⋅ ⛅ 30 °C

    Well, we've made it through one very long day, and what a start to a holiday it was - a day of trauma and fatigue. Apart from the necessary preparations this story really begins in Sydney on Saturday 13th June, the day before we were due to leave on our family holiday of a lifetime. A lot had to be packed in that day - a soccer game each for the boys, the 50th anniversary celebrations for the school, which included cooking and helping out on a stall by mum, a debate for Joel, as well as his big stage debut: the leading part in the 6G play, "Rinse the Blood off my Toga", in which Joel was to play Flavius.

    It was on the way to soccer that mum first noticed two spots behind Joel's right ear. "Oh my God", she said, as the implications began to slowly dawn on her. After summoning Pete for an inspection, they just stared at each other, too shocked to say much. The hurried trip to the doctor which followed revealed that the spots had been there for a week. The parents, too, were reminded that Joel had been ill at 3am a week previously.

    The doctor's advice was therefore that, if it was chicken pox, as suspected, then it probably wouldn't get any worse and that it was now of no consequence. We should therefore proceed with our plans. My own gut feeling told me that the doctor was probably wrong, and the following days were to confirm this. However, with the soccer games over, the activities proceeded at the school as planned and a successful day was had. Joel's play was recorded for his grandchildren to watch one day, with the video camera purchased only days earlier by his father.

    Saturday evening and Sunday morning came and the preparations and packing finalised. Phil & Donna arrived with Blake, nursing a heavy cold. Joel's face was beginning to look like a teenager's at puberty, and spots were appearing every time mum had a look. However, with the nod from the doctor the previous day, a second opinion really wasn't desired or contemplated.

    At the airport by 10:30, our baggage check-in was swift but alas no window seats. The trip across the Tasman took about 2 1/2 hours with a tail wind. The transit lounge in Auckland was superb. The next hop to Honolulu was a fair whack longer - about 9 hours, with the boys this time at a window seat and behaving very well. Joel was beginning to look like a leper.

    After a few minor snatches of sleep, we arrived in a wet Honolulu at 5:20am on 14th June (Sunday), when our bodies were telling us it was 12:30am and needing considerably more sleep than we had managed so far.

    We went looking for the car rental office & found we had to wait 10-15 minutes for a shuttle bus. We also found another shock. The company had no record of us having paid for collision damage waiver, and this meant forking out an unexpected $67. Joel was by now complaining of chicken pox all through his scalp and other places I'm too polite to mention. As well, we were all very very tired and it was about 7am.

    The worst aspect of all of this was that we could not go to our motel and collapse as the room wouldn't be available until about 2. So we had to drag two tired children around for what seemed an eternity.

    We pulled out of the Alamo car rental yard in the rain with Pete trying to find how to do up his seat belt, how to lower the steering wheel, how to turn on the wipers and work the air conditioning, as well as how to drive on the right hand side of the road with hazy instructions from his wife. We were understandably a little depressed.

    We mooched around Oahu, with Joel constantly complaining of his condition. I was supposed to be navigating but kept losing consciousness. I finally said I couldn't stand it any more and said I could be dumped under a tree and picked up at some later stage. Instead, we made our way to the motel and decided to just wait in the foyer for our room. Pete send off a fax to the travel agent re the insurance.

    Joel & I literally fell asleep on the spot while dad and Sean went for a walk. We were finally issued with room 1000 on the 10th floor, a very large comfortable room. After a couple of hours relaxing we walked to the beach where the boys gradually got wetter and wetter until they were submerged. Back for a shower and look for a bite. Nothing spectacular. None of us were thinking clearly & we had Pizza Hut/Taco Bell fare.

    Three boys were asleep within seconds of head meeting pillow. Mum took on the task of putting down on paper "The longest and possibly most traumatic day of our lives".
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  • Day 1

    Waikiki, Hanama Beach

    June 15, 1992 in the United States ⋅ ⛅ 30 °C

    Another day which didn't exactly go our way, but eventually worked out alright. Everyone knows the saying "there's no such thing as a free lunch". Well, the same goes for breakfast, as we found out this morning. We were "invited" to a free tour of the city and breakfast. What it actually turned out to be was breakfast and a one hour power sell of Aloha/VIP tours around Hawaii.

    We decided to give the tours a miss - not prepared to fork out too much at this stage, and besides that we already had a hire car. By the time we got back to the motel, having been sidetracked by the Honolulu Marketplace where we bought 4 t shirts for $14 and also stopped for Baskin-Robbins ice cream, it was nearly midday. We changed & set off for a beach on the north of the island.

    Taking the Pali Highway, we stopped at a couple of spots for sight-seeing. Pete discovered he had lost his spray so - back to Honolulu, where he discovered it had been in his bag all the time! We made our way back to the Pali Highway and then up the northeast coast. Went through lost of lush green vegetation, eventually passing the Chinaman's Hat. We stopped and had a swim and sunbake at Kahana Bay. The water almost felt lukewarm - warmer than the air. We had to leave earlier than planned to return our borrowed beach towels by 6:00. We were worried about the $20 fine per towel for late returns!!

    Now it's off for dinner at the Spaghetti Shop.
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  • Day 2

    Waikiki, Diamond Head, Hanauma Bay

    June 16, 1992 in the United States ⋅ ⛅ 29 °C

    Each day brings a new trauma. All in all, today was a lovely day. We had a bit of a sleep in until about 8:30 while Pete went to the laundromat. Then we went across the road to get a JR's breakfast special - 2 pancakes, bacon & eggs for $1.95. After that we collected some more towels and posted some cards, then made our way to Diamond Head to tackle the hike to the top (760 ft above sea level). Only 0.7 miles but quite steep in places - that was what the sign said, anyway.

    Right at the top was a tunnel and a flashlight was required, but we took our chances. The view from the top was magnificent and well worth the climb. Around this time the boys began to annoy each other and complain and did so at odd times for the rest of the day, with Pete & I threatening to send them home on the next flight. There were a couple of times when we almost meant it.

    After the climb back down we sat in Diamond Head Crater and had a bit of a snack before making our way round to Hanauma Bay. Not really very far but very slow traffic because of roadworks. It was a bit like coming back to Sydney after a weekend away.

    Hanauma Bay is a beautiful spot which we had seen on Monday. The water wasn't quite as warm as the previous day, but still very refreshing. The water was teeming with fish which made it a popular snorkelling spot. One very large mullet looking fish, about 30cm long swam right beside me.

    The day turned overcast and when it actually rained most people, including us, packed up and went. Besides, we had to return our towels again. After showering we headed off for the Hard Rock Cafe, quite a walk, but better than looking for a parking spot. We arrived at 7.45 and were told we would have to wait 75 minutes for a table. Even the queue for t-shirts was quite long.

    We opted instead for the Sizzlers which we had passed along the way, with Sean complaining bitterly about having walked all that way for nothing and he didn't want to go to Sizzler either. We had a rather nice meal (I had Mahi Mahi), but Pete didn't go too much on the steak. We also sampled the Mai Tais that we had heard about.

    Pete had bought a $7 phone card which would get him a 3 minute international call as he wanted to phone Nicole. We did so, but the line dropped out after about a minute and he was very angry. He phoned again from the hotel anyway (what he wanted to avoid in the first place).

    While he was phoning, Sean decided to investigate the safe in our room in which we had put all our documents etc. We then couldn't get it open and Pete had to go looking for a locksmith. By this time Sean was about on death row. After about half an hour the safe reset itself and the locksmith cancelled.

    Well, I can't wait to see what tomorrow brings!
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  • Day 3

    Pearl Harbor, Kaanapali Shores

    June 17, 1992 in the United States ⋅ ⛅ 28 °C

    After the traumas of last night, the boys are sleeping in and Pete is prowling around like a caged lion. We will check out this morning and hope to go to Pearl Harbour and then maybe the Western or Northern beaches. Plane leaves at 3:30.

    (pm update: Maui Airport)
    Had breakfast again at the Jolly Roger before finalising everything and heading for the Hard Rock to see if we could pick up some paraphernalia. Joel decided on a t-shirt and Sean a teddy.

    Then headed off for Pearl Harbour. Didn't actually go on the Arizona memorial tour as there was a two hour wait. However we looked at everything on display, went in the museum (submarine), and went aboard the Bowfin, launched in 1942, December 7 - one year exactly after the attack on Pearl. The Arizona memorial is a walkway/viewing platform in the harbour from which you can see the USS Arizona which was sunk in Pearl Harbour that day.

    Time then to drive back to the airport, drop off the car and then catch a flight to Maui. When we checked in we found that we were on a plane which left 30 minutes earlier, so only time to grab a packet of chips before boarding. A very short flight, windy here and rather cloudy. The Alamo car rental desk has queues a mile long and here we wait!
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  • Day 4

    Lahaina, Iao Valley

    June 18, 1992 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

    Made our way across to the west of Maui towards our accommodation in Kaanapali. The views are spectacular with huge Haleakala rising towards the left (largest dormant volcano in the world), and to the right Puu Kukui with its steep valleys. When we reached the coast we were treated to views of the beautiful Pacific to one side and Puu Kukui to the right.

    Our accommodation here is luxurious / condo style, fully contained with even TWO coffee makers, dishwasher etc. Delighted to find that there is a Hard Rock Cafe here, so thought we'd try our luck here. As it turned out only a 15 minute wait.

    No wonder these places are making a packet. The food was superb, the service good as well, rock music playing all the time and rock paraphernalia all over the place. Quite an experience.

    This place is located in Front St Lahaina, a beautiful little whaling village which now caters very much to the tourist dollars. Finding a parking spot was like looking for one in Pitt Street at 11am. All pretty tired after our meals so made our way home to collapse.

    A bit of a restless night. Pete was coughing a lot. His cold has given him a chest infection. I don't feel too good either. I am catching Pete's cold, but I don't mind that - it's my ear that's hurting that concerns me. May even consider a visit to a doctor. Just finished our continental breakfast of croissant and apple, and thinking about how to spend the day.

    After the restless night we seemed to be ages getting going, and about 11am we set off for the Iao Valley, around the other side of Puu Kuukui. There are so many things in Hawaii to marvel at: the ocean, the tropical vegetation, the flowers, the birdlife, the animal life and particularly the sheer cliffs and valleys such as we saw today in the Iao Valley.

    After looking at the needle we walked a little way along a bubbling stream, noticing a number of beautiful big trees - a couple of which bore mangoes, and one a large willow. I christened one of these trees "The Magic Faraway Tree". Made our way back to Wailua where the boys insisted on Maccas for lunch.

    Drove back to Lahaina to wander round. Lots of historic buildings which date back to the 1800s.

    We came upon an enormous banyan tree which covered a whole park, then noticed a free bus to the train station - a cane train that runs up to Naapili. We took the train, not the most comfortable of rides but with an amusing commentator who also sang to us. On the return trip saw a beautiful rainbow rising low out of the valley. When we returned we almost jogged to the Dome Theatre for the 5.00 session about history etc of Hawaii. I'm afraid after the long day and feeling a bit off colour that I began to feel ill with the aerial shots which made you feel like you were actually in a plane flying through the valley/rim of the volcano and so on. I had to close my eyes or the lady next to me was going to wear my lunch.

    Took a little time to recover but walked back toward the car and stopped to buy some "natural" ice cream in waffle cones - $12 all together for 4!

    Drove around to the Safeway store to pick up a couple of provisions - decided we would eat in tonight and get up at 2:30 to catch sunrise on Haleakala. After our pizza had been in the oven for 1/2 hour and was just beginning to melt, we decided the oven wasn't going to work so cooked it on the stove top instead! The accompanying chips we had were a hit - Pete said they were the nicest ones he's ever had!!
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  • Day 5

    Haleakala Sunrise, Napili Coast

    June 19, 1992 in the United States ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    Well, we did it! The alarm went off at 2:30am and by 2.50 we were showered and off in the darkness on the way to watch the sunrise at the top of Haleakala. The climb up the slopes was a long one - about 38 miles. In that distance you actually climb from sea level to 10,075 feet. We took some warm weather gear, but it was just icy at the top. I felt like I was back in Sydney again. Foolishly, in an attempt to warm myself I sprinted up the flight of stairs to the hut at the summit, and spent the next 5 minutes panting for breath. In the darkness I had not noticed the sign "Walk slowly at this altitude".

    We arrived at about 4.45. We were quite excited at the view we would get from the top, as the early morning was almost cloudless. As dawn approached a substantial bank of cloud had built up and sunrise didn't actually occur until about 5.40. After their early rise, the boys were getting pretty restless waiting, especially as it was so cold.

    The sunrise was nice, but I'm not sure it was worth a 2.30am start and putting up with the fatigue. More cloud rolled in, and obscured the view of the crater and anything much else. Disappointing, as Pete and I remembered very clearly the impact it had had on us the previous time. We hung around for quite some time, driving from summit to various viewpoints, hoping the clouds would evaporate and delight us with a wonderful view. It was not to happen and eventually we gave up at about 10.30. We had been up there for about 6 hours!

    To make matters worse, Sean had been complaining of feeling sick. Up it came at one of the viewing points, his own little private eruption. Further subsidiary eruptions took place as we descended the mountain on a narrow winding road down a mountain, it's difficult to stop when a sick child yells out "stop the car!".

    Back up at the top we saw lots of Silversword - a unique and beautiful plant which grows nowhere else in the world but on top of Haleakala. It has developed special adaptations which have allowed it to do so.

    We made our way back to Lahaina, stopping to pick up some bread rolls to eat for lunch before all collapsing into bed for a nap. On waking at about 2.30 we packed up again and headed off north through Napili and saw a lot of expensive looking resorts and condos. We ended up at a pretty bay for a swim, relax and sunbake (Honolua Bay). There were lots of beautiful coloured birds there that Pete and I both tried to film.

    Didn't leave til 5.45 and were the last ones on the beach. Home for a quick change and into Lahaina where the boys had their hearts set on Cheeseburger in Paradise. It had a rather pleasant ambiance as its built right on the water with the sea breeze blowing in, with a guy with a voice like Don Henley playing the guitar and singing.

    Pete & I were disappointed in the meal - bill was $58 for essentially a hamburger meal each. Pete & I had a nice cocktail each though, and the boys a "bottomless soda" in a mug which changed colour as you drank it, and which they took for souvenirs.
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  • Day 6

    The Road to Hana

    June 20, 1992 in the United States ⋅ ⛅ 30 °C

    The days are flying by. This morning we set out on a long day trip around to Hana. After our continental breakfast we left about 10 and made our way along the road to Kahului. We passed the turnoff to Haleakala, and the story was much the same - a shroud of cloud covered the summit from about 2/3 of the way up.

    We continued along. Hana is around on the east of Maui after a long and tortuous drive around to the north. However, there are spectacular views along this road: bamboo forests, waterfalls and deep valleys which end at the ocean. It was a trip of many miles of very winding road, wit 52 narrow bridges to cross. We stopped in several places to photograph the scenery. We pulled into Hema Beach about 2.00 and went looking for lunch. This is certainly one of the most isolated places we've been so far. Our burgers were nothing spectacular, and the locals who served us were totally non-plussed.

    A school end of year luau was in progress, with singing, dancing and of course, food. We walked around the beach of essentially black sand to a jetty from which kids were having a great time jumped into the water. They stopped and eyed us suspiciously when they saw Pete with his video camera. Perhaps jumping from here isn't allowed.

    We saw a lighthouse and a bit of a track so we decided to follow it for a while. It was a nice little walk. We passed a tiny bay where the sand was red. Most of the rock here looks very rich in iron. Perhaps it should be called Rusty Beach!

    We went further around past huge boulders and overhangs, but couldn't make it across to the lighthouse, so we turned back to the car. We passed an Islander standing on a high ledge fishing with a bow and arrow. I just couldn't imagine how anyone could catch a fish that way in waves which were so turbulent. A quick ice cream at our favourite kiosk before departing. We went along a little way further, but decided we wouldn't make it to the Seven Pools and other delights down the road.

    By the time we got back to Lahaina it was 6.45 and we had planned to have dinner at Denny's, which we did. The food was good and the kids got a children's gift of a set of cards each.

    Everyone was by now pretty tired, and I was still feeling ill with my cold and sore ear, so we wearily packed up ready for an early checkout the next morning.
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  • Day 7

    Back to Haleakala, then the Big Island

    June 21, 1992 in the United States ⋅ ⛅ 28 °C

    Packed and left without too much bother, our flight scheduled for 9.15. Coming around the coastline toward the central plain of Maui, there was Haleakala in all its splendour with not a cloud in sight! Pete turned to me and said "wouldn't it break your heart?". Within a few seconds, the same thing went through both our minds - if we could delay our flight to the Big Island, we could drive up there this morning.

    Our timing was tight, but we managed it without a hitch, and were soon in McDonalds ordering a quick breakfast. We were now booked on the 2.26 flight which was in 5 hours time, but Pete was anxious to get going in case the cloud decided to roll in and spoil our plans once again.

    We were excited as we began to climb the mountain once again, especially as we could see the clouds were nowhere near the summit. We were to be rewarded. The view of the crater was as we remembered - awesome, with beautiful browns, oranges and reds, dotted with cinder cones and very very big. Much warmer today. We walked down into the crater a little way along the Sliding Sands Trail, but only for about 20 minutes.

    On the way back we stopped in McDonalds again, this time in Pukalani, where we realised we were cutting it fine to catch the plane. It was now about 1.15. We arrived at the Alamo check-in and anxiously awaited the shuttle bus. We walked into the terminal at 1:55 and the queue was quite long. Pete went to the counter, explaining our predicament and we got a porter to check us in. We rushed to gate 17 just before the flight was called.

    We had a nice view of Haleakala from the plane and then looked toward the Big Island where we would be spending the next few days. After arriving at Keahole airport - small by comparison with the others - Pete and Sean went off in search of a car while Joel & I looked after the luggage.

    After a few minutes they returned in a blue convertible, our big splurge for the last island we would visit. We had driven for about 3 minutes before it started to rain! So there we were trying to work out how to lower the roof and make it air-tight.

    Found our accommodation in Kona. Not as spacious as the previous two; older with fewer conveniences. However, it was quite adequate. The boys were excited about the pool and went in almost straight away.

    We were within easy walking distance of several eateries, but decided to cruise in our vehicle. Then we parked it back in the hotel carpark and walked the shops. Looked around the shops a bit, with Pete getting more and more bored. I bought a hat as I needed it for the open car.

    Had dinner in Stan's - a reasonable sort of meal, but the cocktails lift the price a bit - Pete had a Mai Tai and I had a Chi Chi. Time to turn in and write diary and postcards.
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  • Day 8

    Volcano National Park

    June 22, 1992 in the United States ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    Today was our chance to play "Baldwins vs the Volcano". We hoped to see Kilauea, and if possible, flowing lava. It was a long drive from Kona, about 96 miles from the west coast down to South Point (the southernmost tip of Hawaii, and in fact the most southerly point in the USA), then we turned north-east following the Volcano Highway. The south east is where all the new volcanic activity is occurring, which seems fairly obvious given the distribution of the now extinct or dormant volcanoes and the movement of the Pacific Plate.

    No matter where you go on this Island you see evidence of lava flows. There are white sandy beaches, black sandy beaches, and areas where lava rock just flows into the ocean. This evidence of past activity seems quite awesome. Some lava has no regrowth of vegetation due to lack of one or other mineral, and looks like it came out of the ground yesterday.

    Apart from these sights and driving past the Kona Coffee plantation, most of the countryside was quite boring with some scrubby patches of vegetation.

    We reached the Hawaii Volcanoes National Park and drove in. An elderly park ranger spoke to us and told us what we should see. Part of the Crater Rim Road was closed for repairs, which meant we would have to drive down both sides and double back. She also told us that Halemaumau, the "Fire Pit" - a crater within Kilauea was not active at present, but lava was coming out of the right zones to the south-east near Puuoo. It requires a nine mile hike to actually see any fresh lava. We knew this was impossible today.

    We went over to Volcano House to pick up a snack lunch - hot dogs. From there we got our first glimpse of Kilauea crater. Here as on all the Hawaiian Islands are lots of Japanese tourists, and one hears their "oohs" and "ahs" and knows their country of origin without even turning to see.

    One thing I forgot back at the visitor centre was the 10 minute film on the volcanic history of this area. Footage of Halemaumau and its fountain of fire; the a'a lava and pahoehoe and so on. Pete & I remembered this place from a couple of years ago when a couple who came in late couldn't see where they were going.

    From Volcano House we drove down one side of Crater Rim Drive, stopping at the sulfur banks where Sean didn't want to get out. He was terrified when he read the warning about TOXIC FUMES being dangerous to one's health. Next were the steam vents. These are dotted all over the place. Rainwater runs down into fault lines and the heat from the underlying magma evaporates it.

    Further on was the Thurston Lava Tube. A long hollow cave. This time it was Joel's turn to be nervous and Sean was quick to seek revenge, as he had copped some flak back at the sulphur banks. We stopped briefly at the Hawaiian Volcano Observatory then around the drive to Halemaumau and read about its series of eruptions. We had to turn back as the road was closed from here and drove all the way back past the visitor centre.

    We stopped to look at Kilauea Iki, but the rain had closed in by this. Here was a spectacular fountain 1000 feet high. Then around to the Devastation Trail with the rain still coming down. A wooden walkway through what was once tropical forest, but the eruption of Kilauea Iki produced a cinder cone and lots of pumice and ash which destroyed a large area. Some regrowth occurring, but no sign of touch sensitive plants.

    Some beautiful rainbows around about this time. Also noticed that here an earlier version of Crater Rim Road had been covered. With the day fast disappearing we drove down the Chain of Craters Road, stopping once or twice to look at the 1974 lava flows and the Western Rift section, but we wanted to get to the end where the road had been closed by a lava flow in 1990. We got there and clambered around on it for a while. No chance of making the hike to the visitors centre which had been destroyed.

    All of us were very excited about the flow patterns and colour of the lava. Then the rain came down and really soaked us. The sun was going down and it was time to look for petrol in Volcano, a bit of a snack and endure the long drive back in wet clothing. We ordered a pizza when we got back and were eating it at 9:30 before climbing into bed.
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  • Day 9

    North coast of Big Island

    June 23, 1992 in the United States ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

    Everyone a little tired this morning but still awake fairly early. The room's not well air conditioned and the beds a little hard - well, in my opinion anyway. Dad went looking for a laundromat while mother bathed, packed and went looking for a supermarket.

    It wasn't really that far away, but a few groceries add up. I was also conscious that time was ticking away, but in a strange supermarket with goods and brands I'd never seen before, it was hard to hurry. I even walked past a tank of live lobsters waiting to be chosen as somebody's meal (in a supermarket?).

    Under the weight of my parcels I trudged back to the hotel. Everyone was waiting to go for breakfast. Pete had only just got the computer going again after it hadn't wanted to start, so it was another 10 minute delay.

    By the time we got to McDonalds the breakfast menu had finished! We stayed anyway and then made our way up north. We were making for the Waipio Valley and possibly Hilo.

    Stopped at one or two places along the Northwest coast, but it was torture for the boys as the weather was very hot but we didn't have time for a dip. We promised them we would have a swim later in the day.

    A bit further north was an historic "Heaion" or temple where the Hawaiians worshipped. A second was built by King Kamehameha. From here we drove inland to Waimea with museums and ranch houses and the like, so we didn't stop. Continued across to the north-east of Hawaii and made our way up to Waipio Valley which both of us could remember clearly. Very steep high valley walls with a flood plain between. We had our packed lunch here and were chatting for quite some time with a bus driver from Los Angeles who was giving Pete some tips about our time on the mainland.

    We decided not to go exploring much further as we wanted to have a fairly early night and early morning, so we made our way back the way we had come, and stopped at Honalua Beach. The boys went careering toward the water, while I settled for a nice bake in the afternoon sun.

    After a couple of hours we set off with the day coming to an end. With the roof down we drove along, the coast to our right with the sun descending toward the water, the wind blowing all around us and sunset Hawaiian music playing on the radio. What could be closer to paradise? It was just magic and I put the memory in a corner somewhere to extract at a later stage.

    We wanted to stop somewhere and watch the sunset, so we pulled into Kona Beach park, a rough 1 1/2 mile track through lava fields. When we got to the end we almost missed it!

    By the time we got back to Kailua it was nearly 7.30. So we stopped at a place called Tom Bombadils which we had noticed before. Menu items are laced with names from Tolkien's books. The prices a little higher than we would have liked but still OK. That's another day in paradise.
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