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The Camino

May - June 2017
A 42-day adventure by Joe Read more
  • 25footprints
  • 3countries
  • 42days
  • 178photos
  • 3videos
  • 962miles
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  • Joe CollettiThe Camino
    2
    112
    Day 12

    10 days in

    May 14, 2017 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

    I'm approaching 100 miles of walking, about 20% of the way to Santiago. I think of myself as a sprinter by nature, so it's been interesting to observe my thoughts and actions on what is clearly a marathon.

    After two days pushing for distance, I cut today short. There are a couple big hills coming up. I decided they could wait for the cool of morning. And it's nice arriving somewhere early in the afternoon-- plenty of time to read, do laundry, and relax.    Read more

  • Joe CollettiThe Camino
    11
    Day 14

    Too darn hot

    May 16, 2017 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    It's been a hot couple of days, especially the afternoons on unshaded roads. Still, I covered another 40km, passing through the capital of Spain's wine region, Logroño. The place I stayed there was unlike any I've ever been in.

    Picture an apartment in a dingy residential high-rise, dimly lit, smelling strongly of disinfectant. The sounds of other people staying there, heard but never seen. A poorly repaired lamp, whose wires came apart in my hand as I plugged it in.

    I survived the night, while relearning the "cheap ain't always best" lesson. And while this walk is still young, I do have to dub this place the odds-on favorite to take "Location most likely to host a drug overdose or electrocution" award.

    Tonight I treated myself to a nice hotel. Wish I could sleep in, but I'll be out by 7am to beat the heat.    Read more

  • Joe CollettiThe Camino
    2
    224
    Day 15

    Najera

    May 17, 2017 in Spain ⋅ 🌬 20 °C

    I *really* didn't feel like walking today. Tired, achy, pissed off that my alarm didn't work. My pack felt heavier than it had been. And after two days broiling, it looked like we'd get hit with rain midday. No, the high thread count hotel bed definately seemed like a much better alternative.

    But...I coffee'd up and dragged myself outdoors, resigned to completing the short (18km) day ahead. And things worked out. The storm held off, the hills were quite mild, and I ended up in the lovely town of Najera by 3:00. Now it's evening and I'm in a comfy room, showered and fed and listening to raindrops hit the courtyard outside.

    A bunch of people have told me that The Camino is much like Life, the journey to Santiago one extended metaphor. I've certainly discovered the truth of the saying "Wherever you go, there you are!"

    So when mornings like this one happen again after Santiago; when I find myself slowed either by "what is" or "what I fear," I pray I'll remember how today worked out, and find whatever I need to just walk on.    Read more

  • Joe CollettiThe Camino
    1
    12212
    Day 17

    Finding Dad

    May 19, 2017 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 6 °C

    He died when I was 10 years old. It's a wound that's never stopped hurting. Touching it almost always leaves me feeling angry...ripped off...sad.

    Last night, when I remembered that today's the anniversary of when he left, I expected the day would be a sad one. But somehow, when I put my foot on the path this morning, I found space for a new thought-- gratitude-- and the ability to decide "No, this *won't* be a sad day!"

    And so I walked, 30km through the Spanish countryside-- along rich fields, over rolling hills, through centuries-old villages-- and I felt thankful.

    Thankful I had eyes to see the amazing greens and blues and browns and whites surrounding me.

    Thankful for my body, moving me through space and able to enjoy cool morning breezes and the warm afternoon sun.

    Thankful for a heart that lets me appreciate the beauty I see, and form connections with the people I meet.

    Thankful for the curious mind that led me to choose this adventure, and squeeze all I can from it.

    And Thankful to my Dad for everything he did to give me this.

    I don't know how long this will last. I don't know how often I'll find the grace to say "No, this *won't* be a sad day!"

    But I had today, sore feet and all, and I'm good with that. Thanks Dad. I love you.    Read more

  • Joe CollettiThe Camino
    4
    2
    Day 21

    Burgos

    May 23, 2017 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    On Sunday I walked about 25 miles so I could have an extra day in Burgos. I've enjoyed it so much, I added another.

    The city sits on two rivers, and is a lovely mix of modern and traditional. The gothic cathedral-- with El Cíd buried at its heart-- is one of the loveliest in the world. (Tell me if you'd like a link to the album of pictures I took there.)

    On my first evening here, two locals spotted me finishing dinner, and invited me to their table for a beer. That gesture, and the conversation that followed about my Camino, will stay with me long after I leave tomorrow.    Read more

  • Joe CollettiThe Camino
    1
    11
    Day 22

    Phase Two begins

    May 24, 2017 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

    I'm covering the next 200km, from Burgos to León, on an orange rental bike named Honey Badger.

    This part of Spain is known as The Meseta-- flat, agricultural, hot. Some say it's the favorite part of their Camino, with open skies and plenty of time to think. I'm thinking of it like crossing Kansas or Oklahoma in Summer, and want to get the f♧&: across it.

    Riding will shave a week off, but it's no cake walk. Pulling a loaded bike uphill-- it's not totally flat here-- is a bitch, especially on gravel in 90°-plus heat. But I see it as another chance to try something new, before switching back to feet and sticks to finish.    Read more

  • Joe CollettiThe Camino
    1253
    Day 25

    Well, that was cool!

    May 27, 2017 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    After three days together, and 120 miles of riding-- through heat and rain and a few missed turns-- Honey Badger and I got to León last night. She was a great ally on roads and trails, heading straight into one storm without complaint, and helping me outrun two others. I'll miss her.

    Looking back, I'm happy with the choice to ride, and for reasons different than those expected. True, I crossed a less-scenic area five or six days faster than if I'd walked, and doing that let me see a few people I'd met earlier on the trip.

    But switching modes also gave me new chances to stretch. I used different leg muscles, practiced new skills, faced down new fears (like bombing down a rocky trail with a rack full of gear!) And that's a big part of why I came to Spain.

    Today I'll wash clothes, buy a few things, enjoy León and take pictures. Tomorrow I'll pick up sticks again, and continue walking west. I'm looking forward to it.    Read more

  • Joe CollettiThe Camino
    2
    Day 26

    Rest...and rain

    May 28, 2017 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    In León I took an extra day to relax, wash clothes and play tourist. I admired the city's old center section and cathedral, but Burgos remains my favorite city.

    I got to see / hear rock concert put on by municipality-- and got only three hours of sleep my last night there, because of people singing and clowning outside my window till 3:30AM, and again at 6:30. (different people, I think)

    Tempting as it was to stay in bed, I headed out into a drizzly Sunday morning, and walked the dozen or so miles to Villadangos del Páramo. It wasn't much more than a wide spot in the road, notable only for the most interesting take on minestrone I've ever been confronted with.    Read more

  • Joe CollettiThe Camino
    Day 28

    Astorga

    May 30, 2017 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

    I pushed myself hard to get here-- 33km, about 21 miles. The countryside was lovely, and the rain gave way to a beautiful sky mid-afternoon, but I was wrecked when I arrived.

    The last few miles seemed to stretch on forever; the 4-story pedestrian bridge over railroad tracks at the town's outskirts felt like Everest. Maybe pizza and beer wasn't the best lunch choice.

    Between my condition, the lovely hotel-- and the knowledge that the coming days would be challenging-- it was an easy decision to stay an extra night.

    Astorga is a charming town, dating back to Roman times, when it was a key point situated on two trading routes. There's still a market set up every Tuesday, though the imports from China have changed considerably.    Read more

  • Joe CollettiThe Camino
    Day 29

    To the hills

    May 31, 2017 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

    Heading west from Astorga the road rose, as I continued leaving the plains of Castile behind. I'd planned a fairly easy day to set myself up for tomorrow's climb to the highest point on the Camino, and a visit to the famous Cruz de Ferro (Iron Cross)

    The albergue where I ask for directions to my hotel had a good vibe to it. I was happy to return when my hotel host wasn't around to greet me. Happier still to stay in a comfortable private room for half what I expected to pay.

    When I heard about a Vespers service being sung in Latin, I jumped. It seems like a fitting ritual before tomorrow's climb. While I didn't share the beliefs of many in attendance, I was moved-- both by the atmosphere, and a connection I felt to pilgrims who'd sung these same words a thousand years before.

    I left the small church to capture a few evening photos, enjoy a huge plate of pasta, and chat with a pair of Aussies I met several times along the way. Then I headed off to bed. Tomorrow would start early, and be a big day...    Read more

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