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Dos Perigrinos

Dos Perigrinos

Commercial photographer / videographer, world traveler & retired airline employee (that really helps with the world traveling!). Meer informatie🇺🇸Austin
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    • Dos PerigrinosReizigerCamino de Santiago Frances

      Day 32: To Sarria.

      12 juni 2023, Spanje ⋅ ☁️ 70 °F

      This morning I started my hike walking with Terry, his granddaughter Emma (aka Amish Emma) and her partner Jack and then later joined by (Irish) Emma and Alice.
      There is a giant scallop shell fuente (water fountain) on the trail that pretty much everyone must get an obligatory photo with. Afterwards, when we arrived at the little village of Montán I was really wanting another cup of coffee or perhaps a snack, but there were no bars, only a ‘24 hour’ vending machine with a beautiful blue-eyed cat watching over it and searching for affection. I bought a rather unsatisfying candy bar and resigned that I would wait until the next village to get something better to eat and drink. Then, just as we were leaving the little village, we ran across this very cool lounging and meditative space. There was a table of food (all Donativo (you just donate what you can)). There was a little musical space with guitars, percussion instruments and a ukulele), a room with hammocks and more. A young woman even offered to make us coffee and then served it to us. It was pretty amazing!
      After sitting for a while, I was ready to get back on the trail before Emma or Alice so I moved on ahead.
      Today’s trail was a great combination of open fields with views of the surrounding mountains and heavily wooded womb like trails.
      I finally made it into the town of Sarria (where they had mosaic shells decorating the sidewalks) and after dropping of off my backpack in my room, I went on a quest for a nearby laundromat and dinner. After my clothes were clean and my tummy was full, it was time for bed and then tomorrow I head off to Portomarin.      Meer informatie

      Zie vertaling
    • Dos PerigrinosReizigerCamino de Santiago Frances

      Day 31: To Triacastela

      11 juni 2023, Spanje ⋅ ☁️ 68 °F

      Today was a beautiful day. It started with a reunion of more long-lost Camino family for breakfast then on the trail. Amish Emma (she isn’t Amish, it’s a long story) was on a quest for a 4-leaf clover amongst the clover patches on the trail as we left O’Cebreiro. That started a quest for the rest of us that started off walking together that morning.
      I’m happy to say I found one 🍀 then, and another while walking alone later. I’m told that about 1 in 10,000 ☘️ are 🍀. I believe all of us in that group found at least one.
      Actually though, today the flowers de jour were daisies. There were fields with gazillions of them.
      At one point along the trail in the mountains there were a group of cows (bulls?) grazing directly on the trail. I just walked by and spoke softly to them hoping they were not in training for the running of the bulls in Pamplona…
      Finally, after a really beautiful hike I made it to Triccastela, changed into my crocks to give my feet a break and joined some friends for a vino tinto before a nice quiet dinner of paella.
      Tomorrow, I walk to Sarria and the Camino will undergo what I anticipate to be a pretty drastic change.
      About 70% of those that do the Camino start in Sarria. It’s a very popular starting point so the trails will become substantially more crowded.      Meer informatie

      Zie vertaling
    • Dos PerigrinosReizigerCamino de Santiago Frances

      Day 30: To O’Cebrerio

      10 juni 2023, Spanje ⋅ ☁️ 64 °F

      Most would say, the second most difficult part of the Camino Francés is the hike up to O’Cebreiro. I would agree. However, if the weather cooperates it is beautiful at the top. My morning started off under an overcast sky and sure enough, after a while, the rain started falling and the poncho came out. Before then I was able to take a few photos in La Portela de Valcarce and Vega de Valcarce where I had coffee and breakfast. Then the rain came shortly before the real climb started to O’Cebreiro. Most of the climb itself was on a steep muddy, rocky path punctuated by little poobombs the horses (that some folks use for the climb) had left behind. There really are no photos of that section because my hands were firmly attached to my hiking poles and my eyes were watching where I needed to step.
      At one point near the top there was a sweet Spanish lady that had been collecting these really pretty orange mushrooms. The rain stopped and a few minutes later we officially entered Galicia.
      O’Cebriero turned out to be a really cute vibrant (tourist) town. It was especially rewarding because I kept running into various “pilgrim family” members that I had not seen in days or weeks. Because of various factors you meet folks and walk with them, and you may end up together for a day or more and then may or may not see them again for days, weeks or ever. It’s always nice when you do.
      Tomorrow I’m off to Triacastela (down the other side of the mountain).      Meer informatie

      Zie vertaling
    • Dos PerigrinosReizigerCamino de Santiago Frances

      Day 29: To Trabadelo

      9 juni 2023, Spanje ⋅ ☁️ 64 °F

      I left Camponaraya and it wasn’t long before it was obvious, I was back in a wine region. The surrounding vineyards made for a beautiful hike. Before 10am, I was in the town of Cacabelos and stoped for a cup of coffee, then continued past more vineyards before walking through the city of Villafranca del Bierzo and then on to Trabadelo for the night. My albergue in Trabadelo; “Casa Susi” was the only albergue I booked literally months in advance because of the wonderful things I had heard about their place and hospitality. It was a treat! Additionally, it was a great surprise when I discovered that four of my Camino family were also staying there! Tomorrow I’m on to O’Cebreiro, the last mountain I need to climb on the Camino.Meer informatie

      Zie vertaling
    • Dos PerigrinosReizigerCamino de Santiago Frances

      Day 28: To Camponaraya

      8 juni 2023, Spanje ⋅ ☁️ 75 °F

      It was a stunningly beautiful morning as I left my albergue in El Acebo and headed for Camponaraya. I turned around on the way up the first hill and turned back to take a pic of last night’s albergue. It was a big albergue, I believe they actually had a gym and offered massages but unfortunately after yesterday’s 30k hike, I arrived too late to enjoy them. (Although I can’t really imagine wanting to go to a gym after spending all day hiking, however a massage would have been great!)
      I walked through the village of Ponferrada and stopped for a coffee before continuing through the village of Molinaseca then into the big city of Ponferrada where I had a great lunch across from a giant Templar castle. It was undoubtedly the most ‘castlely’ looking castle I’ve ever seen! Then on through urban then rural neighborhoods before (finally) arriving at my albergue in Camponaraya.
      Albergues vary pretty drastically in the number of beds and the amenities they offer. This one was nice with large outdoor and indoor areas to enjoy a meal or a cerveza or a vino tinto or vino blanco. While sitting on the patio, I met Victor from Holland. His warm open personality reminded me a great deal of “Joost from Holland” in the movie “The Way”.
      Tomorrow, I have another 25k to go to Trabadelo where I’m excited to be staying at Casa Susi. It’s an albergue I heard about months ago due to their great reputation and I’m looking forward to it.      Meer informatie

      Zie vertaling
    • Dos PerigrinosReizigerCamino de Santiago Frances

      Day 27: To El Acebo

      7 juni 2023, Spanje ⋅ 🌧 66 °F

      Physically:
      I’m definitely out of the Meseta…
      For the past week or so I have been walking through what they call the Meseta. It’s basically a relatively flat agricultural region. Now that’s in my (metaphorical) rear view mirror as I’m back to climbing and descending mountains. In fact, today I passed the highest point on the entire Camino. While today’s assent and decent was not nearly as challenging as my first couple of days crossing the Pyrenees, I’m definitely not in Kansas…
      Also, to play a little catch-up as payback for yesterday’s 10k day, today I did a long 30k trek. It made for a very long day, although after the fog/rain subsided it was a beautiful solitary hike on a trail through the woods with wildflowers all around.

      Emotionally/Spiritually:
      I was completely alone virtually all day hiking very rocky mountain trails often in the mist & rain. Plus, one of the best-known locations on the Camino; the “Cruz de Ferro” (Iron Cross) was on today’s hike. Physically, it’s just an iron cross on top of what looks like a telephone pole sticking out of a big pile of rocks.
      Not being a “religious” guy, for me, the cross was not the most important part. The relevance was the rocks. The spiritual strength comes with the tradition that you leave a rock or a small memento behind to release a burden, or in memory of a loss or perhaps as a sign of a current love or devotion. It’s a tradition that has been repeated countless thousands of times as is evidenced by the many thousands of rocks people have carried from around the world to leave there.
      I did all the above and am not ashamed to say mine were accompanied by free-flowing tears. (In my best Yoda voice); “Very strong the Force is there”. It’s a very ‘spiritual’ place and hard to not be moved.
      Finally, I stumbled into my Albergue after 6pm and just crashed on my bunk until my 8:15 dinner time. Then enjoyed my three-course 15€ Peregrino dinner. Now I am in my bunk and ready for sleep.      Meer informatie

      Zie vertaling
    • Dos PerigrinosReizigerCamino de Santiago Frances

      Day 26: To Santa Catalina de Somoza

      6 juni 2023, Spanje ⋅ ☁️ 73 °F

      After my (too) long day of walking yesterday, I decided on a nice easy less than 8-mile trek to the little village of Santa Catalina de Somoza for today. It should have been a pretty effortless trek, but my left leg shin started hurting more and again my right shin started having sympathy pains. Yep, I overdid it yesterday, so today I’m giving my body a break.
      Due to the short day, I slept in, then went to touch on some of the highlights of Astorga. The Cathedral is spectacular. One nice thing they did on the tour is one rooms had 3dVR headsets you could put on and view portions of the Cathedral that are normally not accessible. It was very well done and quite cool. Next door to the Cathedral is the Gaudi Museum or Bishop’s palace so I took the tour there too.
      After that, I headed back to the hotel to pick up my backpack and hiking poles to continue my journey. While there, I met the proprietor, Juan. His family has been living in that home/hotel for 11 generations. It’s a wonderful hotel and not an albergue, but this Peregrino needed a bit more comfort to make my feet and I feel better before the trek tomorrow. (Spoiler alert, there are mountains ahead…)
      I stopped in the village of Murias de Rechivaldo for lunch. Lunch was good but I wish the bar across the street that is owned by some Italians had been open. I’m not sure about their food but I liked their decor outside with colorful flowers filling discarded boots. Then on to my Hostal in the cute but very small village of Santa Catalina to rest my feet.      Meer informatie

      Zie vertaling
    • Dos PerigrinosReizigerCamino de Santiago Frances

      Day 25: To Astorga

      5 juni 2023, Spanje ⋅ ☁️ 73 °F

      Today was a (maybe too) long day. I hiked a little over 22 miles to the town of Astorga. When I started out my left shin was feeling much better. By the time I arrived, my left and right shins were bothering me.
      I started out from my albergue Tio Pepe about 7:30 this morning and didn’t arrive until nearly 7pm. Tomorrow I am going to do a much shorter day. Fortunately, there were several small towns on the way to stop and get a coffee or Aquarius (a non-carbonated electrolyte drink that taste great). I stopped for lunch at ‘Hospital de Órbigo’. It was one of the more interesting small towns I’ve walked through. Some of my Camino family that is several days ahead of me told me then they were here there was a big medieval fair with jousting and the evidence of the celebration was still apparent when I arrived today. It turns out every June they celebrate Don Suero’s Jousting tournament.

      A little history…. In 1434 the knight Don Suero had his heart broken so he locked an iron collar around his neck and declared he would host a jousting tournament here during the two weeks leading up to Saint James Day. Nobles got behind the event and champions showed up to take his dare. At the end of the two weeks Don Suero prevailed after breaking the lances of 300 opponents. He declared himself the victor, and free of the bonds of love. He then made the pilgrimage to Santiago as a final gesture of his release.

      The whole town has a very medieval feel with the medieval bridge and Templar and Maltese crosses and coats of armor displayed around town.
      The trail continued past rusty dirt (rock) farms and fields. I stopped by one and shared a little baby-cow love. Near San Justo de la Vega there was a little donativo (donation based) oasis with fruit (watermelon!), snacks, juice, teas and even hammocks available.
      About an hour later I topped a hill with a little rest spot and a view of Astorga in the distance. I stopped and got a wax seal sellos for my credential from a vendor and continued on to my destination for the evening.      Meer informatie

      Zie vertaling
    • Dos PerigrinosReizigerCamino de Santiago Frances

      Day 24: To Villar de Mazarife

      4 juni 2023, Spanje ⋅ ☁️ 72 °F

      On Sunday morning with the help of another 400mg Ibuprofen (sometimes referred to as “Vitamin I” by pilgrims) my ankle was feeling a bit better, so I decided to push on to Villar de Mazarife. I walked past more churches, past what appeared to be some hobbit holes and out of the bustle of Leon. After a while I was passing more beautiful wheat fields punctuated by red poppies and white daisys. Early in the day I ran across my Camino friend Lauren (American but living in Spain) and we walked together until I arrived at my albergue in Villar de Mazarife. Lauren continued walking as she still had several kilometers to go. After another 15-mile day my ankle was certainly not feeling any worse and perhaps a bit better so I’m confidant I’ll be able to continue tomorrow.Meer informatie

      Zie vertaling
    • Dos PerigrinosReizigerCamino de Santiago Frances

      Day 23: To León

      3 juni 2023, Spanje ⋅ ⛅ 73 °F

      Saturday morning, I started off on what would be a 15 mile walk to Leon. So far, I’ve been really fortunate avoiding the common ailments that are common if not predictable with such long daily walks. I’ve only suffered one small blister. Unfortunately, shortly after starting out this morning a tightness/pain developed in my left shin. I walked/limped through a few little towns on the way in. Mantilla Mayor had me seeing spots when I briefly stopped there, and it also had another nice mural. I passed another bell tower that was home to massive stork nests and the “new” bridge into town. (It was built in 1778). I also met a new Camino family member (Sally Jo from Houston) that helped take my mind off my aching shin. By the time I made it onto Leon (it seems to take forever to get from the rural countryside into the heart of the big cities), I wasn’t sure if I would be able to continue without giving my ankle a day or two of rest. (The standard prescription for what I am pretty certain is a “shin splint” or tendonitis). I stopped by a Farmacia and picked up some Ibuprofen, stopped by a bar and had lunch and a Tinto de Verona (basically red wine and lemon soda) and then rested awhile in my albergue. I also confirmed with them that I would be able to stay an extra night or two if needed and would let them know in the morning. Before long I was getting restless and the local 400mg ibuprofen had kicked in so I walked to the Leon Cathedral (it was spectacular) where I ran into my Camino buddy Kelly. We walked around the old town, took touristy photos, and acted silly (it was a great distraction from my shin). We then met up with our friends Collin from Austin, Sunny from Amsterdam, George from London & Bryan from Australia, and another pilgrim for dinner. Afterwards I hobbled back to my albergue, got off my feet and was in bed by 7:30. Hopefully tomorrow I can continue onward…Meer informatie

      Zie vertaling

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