PCT 2023 - Prep & Trail

The one with the dinosaurs, the sea, a tennis match and a final farewell.

📍 Location: Idyllwild to Laguna Beach.
💰 Money: $10 for breakfast at The Red Kettle. Grilled chicken sandwich $18. Then I splurged on a gorgeous chicken Caesar salad with a glass of Chardonnay $48!
🛌 Sleep: Not bad at all! I must have dropped off around 10.30 pm and didn’t wake up until gone 5am.

THE STORY SO FAR..

🍳 7.25 am - I’m sitting in the Red Kettle Cafe eating oats made with water rather than milk (it’s rather gross if I’m honest). I add some “half and half” cream to it, and ask for some honey. Now that’s a bit better. The place is quiet and I scratch a little dogs ears who is on the table next to me (actually, he is in the floor, but you know what I mean!). He is wearing a harness that reads “emotional support”. Kathy (the owner of the Red Kettle) walks in and the little dog goes crazy with excitement and chasing his tail. His owner says “be patient little one and she will be here in a moment”. Kathy then comes over and the dog starts barking then waits patiently at her feet for a treat. It’s such a heart warming scene. This must be a regular occurrence. Kathy then gives the dogs owner a hug and then tootles back to work.

The atmosphere is very different from the last time I was here. There are no hikers around, just locals and holiday makers.

😇 What are the plans for today? I’ll hang around here for a little while and see if I can help with rides back to the trail, but I’m now thinking that my angel days may be over. The last PCT permit was issued on 31st May. So if people did start that late then I should still be seeing a few hikers come through but I know my chances of catching them are slim.

☕️ Sitting in the Red Kettle I make a deal with myself. I’ll drive to Paradise Valley Cafe and see if there are any hikers there and offer rides. If I see nobody at all then I’m going to take three days off which will just be for me. I’ll head to Newport Beach (2hrs from Idyllwild). I can stay there tonight and then make my way down the coast back to San Diego. It will be great to see the sea. “What do you think Angelica?” I say to the car! “Fancy a trip to the seaside?”.

😢 9.30am - I’m at Paradise Valley Cafe and again there are no hikers here. When I arrived at 8am just a month ago it was rammed with hungry hiker trash! Now, the hiker box outside is nearly empty and the car park is full of motorbikes and nice looking cars. There are a few bounce boxes in the hallway but nothing like it was. I go inside and have a cup of tea and wait for about an hour before making the decision to move on. I thought I’d enjoy the solitude of being on my own, but today I’m feeling a bit melancholy.

🐴 10.50 am - As I’m driving along I see a statue of a horse high up on the left. Where the interstate has been cut out of the hill, I now see more clearly that there is one horse on the left bank and three on the right. It’s very cleverly done as if they are jumping the interstate. I pull over to snap a terrible photo!

🦖 Two minutes later I’m driving along and see a dinosaur on the hill! Bizarre! As I get nearer there are many more! It’s some sort of sculpture theme park, in the middle of nowhere! Again, I pull over to take a quick video and photos. This is a bit random!

⛴️ 12.35 pm - I’m now in what feels like a huge city. Newport Beach oozes money! I’m following a Porsche and a Lamborghini over takes me (noisily). To my right is the marina which is laden with expensive yachts and sail boats. I find a parking space on the main road and see a sign for “Park Mobile App”. Great! I have this app so that will work. Nope! The UK version is not compatible over here and I’m also unable to download any US only apps. I try to book via the website but that keeps giving me an error. I have a choice, get a fine, or move my car.

💰 So, I’m back in the car and driving out of the city via the Pacific Coastal Highway. I see a sign for Crystal Cove / beach and decide “that will do”. I need to stretch my legs. I pay the $20 entrance fee which includes parking and access to the trails and beaches.

🚌 There is a shuttle bus that takes you down to the beach where apparently there is a cafe. I have noodles in the van but I’m craving fresh fish which I’m sure will be available by the sea. I wait a few minutes at the little shuttle bus stop and a big old fashioned bus turns up. I’m the only one here (probably because it’s raining!). I say hi to the driver and then sit at the back of the bus listening to 1950’s piped music. It’s a pleasant 10 min ride to the beach and the sea looks inviting and peaceful. When I disembark, the beach is a far cry from inviting and peaceful! There are people everywhere. I can smell hot food in the air and instinctively follow my nose! “Sorry ma’am there is a two hour wait. Would you like me to put your name down?”. I shake my head and tell her I’ll find something else. The place was heaving (again, probably because it was drizzling). I take a stroll along the beach and come across an information board that explains more about Crystal Cove. The cove is where Hollywood filmed some rather famous movies. Herbie Rises Again, Beaches and Treasure Island to name a few. The sound of my stomach rumbling breaks me away from the beauty of the sea and the cove. I scour the area and see umbrellas up high on the coastal road. I start the climb and I can feel my achillies stretching but it feels good to do a little bit of exercise. I overtake two youngsters and say quietly to myself “you’ve still got it, Jukebox”

🍔 Reaching the umbrellas, it turned out to be The Shake Shack where they mainly sold milkshakes, but also did grilled sandwiches and burgers. This place was rammed as well. I ordered a grilled chicken sandwich and salad with a hot tea, but there was nowhere to sit. So I found a rock! (Where’s my little chair when I need it!). The coastal highway is right behind me with cars zooming by and I’m on a rock looking out to sea, but not really feeling relaxed.

🥾 There are too many people and I feel a bit suffocated. I scoff down my sarnie and then go for a walk. Hopefully that will clear my head a bit.

🌊 I walked along the coastal path for about an hour and I’m starting to feel better. There is something therapeutic about the sea air and the sound of the waves against the shore. The sky has cleared and it’s now quite warm. My rain jacket is wrapped around my waist and I decide to double back to the little bus.

👰‍♀️ There is a hen party waiting for the bus and they are trying to take a group photo. I offer to help and get them to do silly things like “dance like a chicken and all point to the bride”. They are a bit worse for wear and it’s only 3 pm. I hope they smile at the photos when they are sober tomorrow. 😂

🎵 It’s the same driver and now we have Frank Sinatra “I’ve got the world on a string” playing. The driver is tapping the steering wheel in time to the music and I say “good tune, I know this one”. He nods and replies “you have good taste”.

🍹 Sitting behind the hen party girls who are complaining about paying $1.50 for the bus ride to the car park I smile as I earwig their conversation. The hen can hardly see where she is going through the veil on her head and the others have collected cocktail umbrellas, which I assume is how many cocktails they have consumed, stuck in their hair. It’s entertaining to say the least.

🚙 3.30 pm - I’m now back at the car. There is a strict no camping rule here so I can’t quietly park in the corner. The gates lock at 10 pm, so I need to look at an alternative. I have good service here so I try proper campgrounds first. Everywhere seems to be fully booked and I refuse to pay $60 at the campground that has spaces, with no showers and a pit toilet!!

☀️ Belting up, I push the start button and decide to see where the road takes me. As I leave the city of Newport Beach it’s not long before I arrive at Laguna Beach. This place seems more welcoming and I’m getting a good vibe. It more “Californian” if that makes sense? There are guys playing volleyball on the beach, people with roller skates and skateboards. Shops selling ice creams and surf boards. And then I see a sign…. Dana Point. Dana was my saviour on the trail so I see this as a positive move. Indicating right I find myself in a gorgeous free car park just above the ocean. There are a few RV’s here and it’s spacious. I park up and then go for a little walk to explore. Yep, I’ll stay here tonight.

4.10 pm - 👋 I just get back to Angelica (van) when my phone goes ping. “Hey mum, it’s gone midnight here and I can’t sleep as it’s so hot”. I message Rachel back saying that I have 5g and did she fancy a chat on FaceTime? We spoke for around 45 mins and it was so lovely to see her and hear of tales of her job and home life. She’s doing brilliantly with her pull up challenge and is about 2cm away from her goal. Alfie was asleep next to her dreaming of something or other. His little fit were chasing something in his sleep. Oh… how I miss that gorgeous little dog.

🍷 I’m aware that she has work tomorrow so I say goodnight. I’m now in a good place (mentally and physically). I set my bed up for the night and lay my Jim jams on my pillow. I lock up the car before heading back along the coast in search of a little bar when I can have a glass of wine and look at the sea (Shirley Valentine, eat your heart out!).

🎾 7 pm - It feels good to stretch my legs and before I know it I’m in a quaint little area where an art market is happening. Music is playing from the various bars and I take my time as I walk, just soaking up the atmosphere. My tummy rumbles to remind me that I’ve not eaten since lunch time and then I spot a lovely looking bar/restaurant which is showing the tennis (Australian open). I take a seat at the bar so that I have a good view of the screen and order a big glass of cold Chardonnay and a chicken Caesar salad. I’m in heaven! Good food, excellent wine and tennis! Now I’m officially on holiday. Nick Kyrgios is a talented tennis player, even if he does have a stinky attitude. I made that glass of wine last until the end of the match and then walked the 2 miles back to the van. I’d already set up my bed so I was all set when I got back. I brushed my teeth, changed into my Jim jams and reflected on the day.

💭 This last week has been perfect. It has given me time to decompress and have some solitude before I head home. I’ve had some ideas for the business which still need some work but I can see a future. For now, I can’t see me walking another long distance trail but I do see a campervan in the pipeline with lots of adventures.

As I snuggle down into my quilt I bid you a goodnight. I’ve loved writing these blogs but now it feels right to end the journey here. Over the next couple of days I’ll continue to follow the Pacific Coastal Highway to San Diego. I’ll see some of you in the coming weeks on an AG walk and others I’ll see online. I’ve read every single comment on Facebook, YouTube and Find Penguins and I’m humbled that you all seemed to have enjoyed the adventure. The comments are heart warming. Thank you 🙏

A big thank you to the AG walk leaders who have kept my business afloat for me whilst I’ve been away. Also thanks for the last few donations that have come in Davina & Alison - I enjoyed that chicken Caesar salad and wine with your funds 🙏.

❤️ Thanks you to my fantastic husband who has put up with my adventures on and off for over 22 years and a final thank you to my wonderful daughter Rachel. Rachel is an old head on young shoulders and has given me so much encouragement and support that she makes me incredibly proud. I’m looking forward to giving them both a huge hug and I’ll try not to cry at the airport. ❤️❤️

Signing off for the last time.

Jukebox
XxRead more