A semi-serious adventure

April - October 2015
  • Kim and Alex
A 186-day adventure by Kim and Read more
  • Kim and Alex

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  • New Zealand New Zealand
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  • 37.3kmiles traveled
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  • Kiwi Exp. - Kaiteriteri to Westport

    June 20, 2015 in New Zealand ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    Kaiteriteri sat sullen as a beach town out of season with only birds occupying the sands but it didn't matter to us as we weren't staying around. We drove to our first stop, the Nelson Lakes, where in summer you can take a jump off the short wooden pier into the deep blue waters surrounded by hills and mountains. However today, in winter, no one attempted to do this at risk of going into shock from the icy temperatures. Instead we took in the views from the pier and fed cat food to eels, who congregate in the shadows under the planking. Clouds drifted low under snow sprinkled peaks like the aftermath of a great fire.

    After a short hike through rain sodden forest on the shoreline we drove down through valleys of pine and past fast flowing rivers swollen by the rains. The clouds continued to haunt the hillsides as we past under the towering greenery.

    The absence of other vehicles or homes for miles upon miles gave the landscape a sense of emptiness. The South Island's population is far less than that of its Northern brother, with the entire island having only as many people as those that populate Auckland. There are only 30,000 between Kaiteriteri and one of our future destinations, Franz Josef.

    We chased the fading light and the prospect of a hot meal to our final stop, Westport, where we cooked up steak and chips from the local supermarket and washed it down with New Zealand pale ale. We sat around the table, old friends (it feels that way after 2 or more weeks travelling together) and new, drinking beer, sharing jokes and learning French with Perrick.
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  • Kiwi Exp. - Westport to Lake Mahinapua

    June 21, 2015 in New Zealand ⋅ ☀️ 7 °C

    We left Westport under a rainbow and headed to Cape Foulwind (we swear we didn't make it up) to walk along an ominous skyline of grey as rolling waves tirelessly charged the coastline of gnarled rocks. The wind whipped around us as dark clouds opened to patter our jackets with a sprinkling of rain before thoroughly showering us. Although we dried on the bus as we drove southward down the west coast, when we left its shelter to view the Pancake Rocks, the rain caught us again, this time heavier still. After running back to the bus, our clothes were soaked and our mood was dark.

    Drying out for the second time we drove along the coastal road with the raging sea on one side and a Jurassic landscape on the other. The road slid between cliff and tide, hugging the cliff so closely that at one point it hung over the road that narrowed to a single lane. Water from rain and sea spray splashed against the bus windows as we lurched around sharp turns in the road.

    When stopped in Greymouth for supplies due to the remoteness of our destination, Lake Mahinapua. However this time, as well as food, we needed to get materials to make fancy dress costumes, for our hostel/pub's theme for the night, 'plastic'.

    Some clothes hangers, sellotape and a lot of ripped up bin bags later and Alex had a pair of eagle wings and Kim a hula girl outfit. We ate roast pork and drank beer in the warm atmosphere. The walls were adorned with Polaroid photographs dating back to 1999 of previous fancy dress parties that had passed through, each with different themes. Frost and darkness gathered outside as the smells of spilt liquor and smoke mingled inside the oasis of the pub.
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  • Kiwi Exp. - Lk. Mahinapua to Franz Josef

    June 22, 2015 in New Zealand ⋅ ☀️ 7 °C

    The scenery was postcard perfect with a tricolour of clear blue sky, lush green landscape before a crystal white horizon of mountains. The blue of the sky was complemented by the deeper shade of Lake Mahinpua, which lapped its shores in the chilly morning breeze.

    The beautiful scenery continued as we drove to Franz Josef, frost twinkled on fern in the shadows whilst in the sunlight rivers dashed over pebbled beds. Reds and ambers hung from trees as all the while the mountains of the Southern Alps loomed in the distance.

    Once at Franz Josef we immediately set off to undertake a 16,500 ft skydive over the mountains and Franz Josef and Fox glaciers. This wasn't something we had planned to do prior to arriving in New Zealand, hence the lack of announcement beforehand. However the opportunity to do such an incredible thing in such a unique location was too great an opportunity to miss.

    Our South African instructors/tandem divers, Mark, Francois and Nico were fantastic hosts, joking whilst making us feel safe. Nervous excitement tingled through our bodies as we dressed into our gear and received our safety briefing. Under the afternoon sun we strolled out across the short runway to squeeze into a single prop aeroplane that then rumbled off the tarmac to start the ascent. Sitting on the floor of the plane with our respective tandem diver behind us, we watched the ground drop away from the small windows. At the tail end of the plane by the exit door, it was only wide enough for one person to sit with the plane's body curving closely around. Out of one side we watched snow topped mountains and glaciers, and on the other, rainforest and the Tasman sea glinting in the unobstructed sun.

    Our breath steamed as the air cooled and at 10,000 ft we were give oxygen masks to help us breathe at altitude. After final safety checks and a tightening of straps to our tandem divers we arrived at 16,500 ft when the exit door was swung open. We turned to position ourselves in the doorway where our legs dangled out to be whipped by the air as noise and light filled our senses. With the world under our feet the last words we heard were 'Ready. Set. Go!' before tumbling out into a 11,500 ft free fall to the earth below. The aeroplane flashed past our vision and the sun briefly blinded us as we twisted and sped away. Air rushed through us as our hearts galloped and our minds struggled to keep pace. Yelling but unable to hear ourselves we levelled out into a bird-like spread to gaze across the panorama all around and below. The force of our fall rippled the skin around our faces as we took in the visual spectacle, all the while hurtling downward.

    At 5000 ft our parachutes opened and our bodies lurched to a slower descent. We were then able to hear ourselves breathe and whoop with adrenaline. Fields and farmhouses circled under our toes whilst rainforest, lakes and the sea spread out to the horizon. Truly exhilarating and unforgettable it was smiles and laughter all round as we calmly landed back down on steady earth.

    We arranged for our skydives to be videoed and photographed by Go Pros strapped to our tandem divers. Unfortunately the camera used for Kim's skydive did not work correctly meaning that she did not have a working video of her experience. Francois advised that he would contact her tomorrow after he tried to rectify it but for now we were living off the adrenaline and memory of what we had just done.
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  • Franz Josef

    June 23, 2015 in New Zealand ⋅ ☀️ 7 °C

    After seeing the glaciers from above yesterday we took a morning hike onto the Franz Josef glacier itself. We travelled up onto the glacier by helicopter, landing into shadows on the ice as the sun was still making its morning ascent to crest the mountain peaks.

    Attaching crampons to our boots we followed our guide, Pete, up through the ice, stopping periodically to allow him to knock ice off the trail with a pick axe. The glacier moves over time making the ice a constantly changing environment for each hike. As the sun threw its light across the glacier, the ice turned from white to blue, absorbing this colour whilst reflecting the rest of the spectrum.

    We climbed up stairways chiselled out of the ice, moving further onto the glacier that towered up in front of us. Another group climbing ahead of us, like a line of ants, gave perspective to glacier's sheer scale. In places we had to crawl and squeeze through small tunnels honed out of the ice by the wind. Our waterproof gear kept us dry as we slid around the smooth surfaces of the unblemished blue ice.

    As the glacier's surface filled with sunlight our sunglasses spared us the glare of its reflection off the ice. The exertion of our climb and the sun's warmth heated us under our many layers. Yet there were still cold shadows to be found as we moved single file through a giant crevice, edging down deep into the ice and out of view from the world around us. Here the blue ice shone in its full glory, time held still inside its walls until the glacier eventually retreated and exposed its contents.

    The ice crunched under our crampons as our breathing echoed in our ears. A heavy silence hung over the ice and when we stopped to listen we could hear the ice creak and crack like the hull of a wooden tall ship at sea. Maori legend states that the glacier was formed by the frozen tears of a young woman whose lover died falling from the mountains whilst they climbed together.

    Back in Franz Josef town we soaked in Hot Pools with temperatures varying between 36, 38 and 40 degrees. As darkness descended the air temperature quickly dropped causing clouds of steam to rise off the pools and envelope us.

    Our hostel's bar ran an all-you-can-eat pizza night that we took full advantage of, stuffing our faces with pizza, chips and garlic bread before filling tupperware for lunch tomorrow (backpacker lifestyle). The bar then ran a competition to win a bungy jump in Queenstown where contestants had to run across the bar attached to a bungy cord, grab a drink and return it to their partner to down. The quickest time won, with time taken off for those willing to do it with as little or no clothing on. No photos to see unfortunately/fortunately depending on your point of view but we can confirm there were naked contestants by the end of the evening (not us!)...
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  • Kiwi Exp. - Franz Josef to Wanaka

    June 24, 2015 in New Zealand ⋅ 🌙 -2 °C

    After the Go Pro recording of Kim's skydive had failed to work properly Francois telephoned her as promised. Unfortunately he had been unable to get the video to playback properly so we expected a straight forward refund. Instead Francois arranged for Kim to redo her skydive for free this morning! In a flurry we organised with our Kiwi Experience driver Kane and Francois for us to return to the airfield whilst the rest of the group visited Lake Matheson. With frost still coating the ground we arrived at the airfield and Kim once again took to the skies, this time under the guidance of Mark whilst Alex went with Francois to the landing site to greet Kim on her return. This was also a great opportunity for Alex to take photographs of Fox Glacier from ground level as although we had landed in the same field only two days before we were in no real position to stop and take photographs immediately after our skydives.

    Kim was extremely grateful to Mark and Francios for allowing her to take another skydive. By doing so allowed her to not only get a working video but also to appreciate the views in more detail and soak in the experience further. Whereas on the first dive, the initial seconds were terrifying with the enormous view opening up beneath, Kim felt a lot calmer the second time around. One thing she noticed during the free fall was how difficult it was to keep her mouth closed, there was so much air and pressure it took a lot of energy to smile or close her mouth!

    Fox glacier sat brightly in the morning sun as farm animals on the ground appeared as tiny dots. Like the first skydive, once the parachute was deployed Kim had the chance to navigate this by pulling on cords either side of the opened chute. Kim was able to see and wave to Alex and Francois as she came into land with Mark.

    Down on the ground Francois explained to Alex that it was very rare for the Go Pros to not function properly and normally the team would offer a refund but they wanted us to leave happy and give Kim a further opportunity to get her video because of how well she had taken the experience as well as the disappointment of the video not working. It was a brilliant gesture and one neither of us will forget. Wanting to prove the video had worked correctly Francois even played it on a large television in front of other people in the reception!

    We rejoined the bus and headed for Wanaka, a peaceful little town that sits on the lake of the same name. Mountain ranges rear up from its shore, coloured shades of orange and purple by the setting sun. The temperature continued to drop lower and lower and we were glad to arrive in the log fire warmth of our hostel. We settled in for the night, talking over dinner to a local father, Reg, and daughter, Sarah who were on a week's holiday together. Sarah recommended a morning hike up Mt Iron for views over the lake but our first thoughts were for a solid night's sleep in a warm bed.
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  • Kiwi Exp. - Wanaka to Queenstown

    June 25, 2015 in New Zealand ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    We left the hostel to walk back along the shoreline of the lake to our bus, braving the -6 degree temperature. Low lying cloud cut off the mountains at their chests as frost coated the ground. In the distance the clouds parted to reveal a window where a snowy mountain stood painted gold from where the rising sun had managed to penetrate through. From our perspective on the grey frozen ground this appeared to be the gateway to another warmer world.

    We had time to take up Sarah's advice on hiking Mt. Iron. Taking a steep winding track up through the rugged iron-like rock that gives the mountain its name, we arrived with a warm glow and hard breath at the summit. Unfortunately the cloud obscured views across the lake so we did not linger in the frosty atmosphere.

    Taking the bus we moved onward to Queenstown, through the Kawarau Gorge with its rugged mountains towering above us and the river swept through beneath the road. Queenstown appeared similar to Wanaka in its lakeside location and mountain vistas, however it appeared to have been injected with winter sports steroids as the streets were littered with people in ski gear and shops selling affiliated goods.

    Many of our group are staying in Queenstown to ski or snowboard but due to our lack of experience and budget for this we are moving on, deeper south, tomorrow. So tonight we dined and drank with our friends one last time, at least until we return to Queenstown in a week for Pierrick's birthday. We met in the Red Rock for burgers, beer and live music before playing pool and Mario Kart on an N64 console in the corner of the bar (old school kudos).
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  • Bottom Bus - Queenstown to Dunedin

    June 26, 2015 in New Zealand ⋅ 🌙 7 °C

    On our Kiwi Experience we have the 'Deep South' pass that allows us to travel to the very southern part of New Zealand on the 'Bottom Bus' (having re-read this we realise how much this is an innuendo minefield). However we were delayed in starting our journey due to black ice closing the road into Queenstown, which our bus sat still on for 2-3 hours whilst we did the same on the sofa at our hostel.

    Soon enough however our Kiwi-snowboarding-driver, Reece, picked us up and we were on our way. The bus' diesel engine throbbing and the sun heating our skin as Reece sought to make up lost time on the road.

    We returned through the Kawarau Gorge until the snow capped mountains moved backwards onto the horizon and rolling sheep littered pastures filled the roadside landscape. However no sooner had we departed from the alpine scenery than it returned whiter than before. Snow lay in the fields whilst the mountains drew closer and closer to us. For moments everything on the land became a shade of white, lit by the sun in a clear sky. Then the snow and mountains began to recede leaving tiger stripes of exposed hillside.

    Colours changed again as brown farmland became alpine green and black angry clouds merged in the heavens. Rain pelted the windscreen whilst a crosswind rocked the bus. Engine braking down slalom roads before accelerating hard to crest hilltop bends we slowly made our way to the city of Dunedin.

    Turning the final corner in the dark we were welcomed by the city's lights below. Through the Victorian streets we arrived at our hostel, which sits above a Scottish bar and pool hall. Dunedin has a strong Scottish heritage, being originally founded by the Free Church of Scotland in the 1840s and the name means Edinburgh in Gaelic. We will be here for the next 3 days and there seems to be lots to see and do in this university city.
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  • Dunedin

    June 27, 2015 in New Zealand ⋅ ☀️ 7 °C

    Cotton caressed our stirring faces in the receding shadows of dawn. Our spines unfurled and our minds searched for the door out of a sleepy fog. The knowledge that we'd be staying still in one place felt good as we breakfasted on cereal. Sunshine broke through the hillside horizon, striking the kitchen window to dazzle us and expose greasy imprints on the glass.

    After weeks of near constant travel and Alex experiencing some man-flu (boo hoo) there was no plan for the day other than some light 'travel admin' of laundry, shopping and bookings. Our stay in Dunedin approximately marks the halfway point for us in New Zealand after which, aside from a night further south in Invercargill, we will begin to return northward.

    The extra time and decent Wifi has allowed Alex to indulge his love of music on Spotify so here is a well overdue playlist of music (http://open.spotify.com/user/somebodyalreadyhas…) -

    Jack Johnson - Banana Pancakes
    Walk The Moon - Shut Up and Dance
    Future Islands - Seasons (Waiting On You)
    Daft Punk - Around The World
    Izzy Bizu - Adam & Eve
    Incubus - Drive
    The Weeknd - Can't Feel My Face
    Thundercat - Them Changes
    Jurassic 5 - Concrete Schoolyard
    David Bowie - Golden Years
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  • Dunedin

    June 28, 2015 in New Zealand ⋅ ☀️ 5 °C

    Winter sun continued to sparkle as we took an hour's walk out of Dunedin's city centre and past brick Victorian terraces that make it appear like home. Turning at the Botanical Gardens we headed to the world's steepest residential street, Baldwin Street.

    If you Google/YouTube this street name you'll find a raft of articles/videos to people's efforts to run or race up/down its 38% gradient as well as the city's annual Cadbury Jaffa race where thousands of Jaffas, each sponsored by a paying ticket, are released from the top to tumble to the bottom. Today however it was just us and a handful of other tourists, the more energetic hiking its pavements and the less so driving their cars.

    The gradient is so steep we found ourselves leaning forward onto our toes as we drove our legs forward into the climb. Heads down and pressing on we were gulping shallow breaths as we reached the top. There we found a wall and bench painted with a mural to the street. Sat unassuming on the bench, in white gumboots and with black headphones cupped around his neck, was 63 year old local resident Dave Kernahan.

    We struck up conversation about our travels and his friends and family from the UK and in doing so we learnt that he has been running up and down Baldwin Street for the last 20 years. When asked about this Dave explained that he runs 30 times up and 30 times down the street a day. The street holds a 'Gut Buster' race, which he enters and a quick google search shows he has been noted in a number of news articles (http://edition.cnn.com/2014/03/04/travel/worlds… - http://www.odt.co.nz/your-town/dunedin/169555/6…). Incredible achievements and a pleasant bloke to boot.
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  • Dunedin

    June 29, 2015 in New Zealand ⋅ 🌧 8 °C

    Rain arrived in Dunedin but it didn't dampen our spirits as we briskly walked through the dreary Monday morning in search of street art. We had heard that the the city had endorsed a number of pieces on its walls, which were marked as dots on our map. We found most easily enough and the colour, detail and scale were brilliant. This shouldn't be confused with graffiti tagging, which is ugly and lacks skill. Instead what we witnessed clearly requires significant skill and artistic talent. We think cities should endorse more of this quality work to bring its streets to life.

    After this we headed over to the Otago museum where items from Sir Edmund Hilary's 1953 Everest Expedition were on display. It was an incredible feat, even more so by the fact that it was the 9th British attempt and Hilary was not part of the first team to attempt the summit the morning he and his colleague Tenzig Norgay succeeded. Such was Hilary's admiration for the Sherpas that assisted him in his mission that he spent significant time and money supporting Nepalese communities in the subsequent decades.

    At the very top of the museum we found the 'Animals' Attic', where a cornucopia of Victorian-era taxidermy was displayed. Mammals and birds posed aggressively next to cases of colourful butterflies and insects whilst rows of skulls mingled with jarred specimens. It read like a Victorian house of nature's horrors, which likely disgusted and fascinated its audiences at the time in equal measure. To us with modern sensibilities of animal welfare the array of stuffed death was somewhat unsettling but still fascinating.

    In the evening Pierrick and Graciela (who we sky-dived with in Franz Josef) joined us in Dunedin to travel onward to Invercargill tomorrow. We caught up on each other's news as we ate freshly made salmon and tuna sushi rolls at a nearby cafe. Afterwards we played pool in the subdued lighting of the pool hall under our hostel. Our time in Dunedin was coming to a close and our journey around New Zealand was about to restart.
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