Andalucia, Spain

Januar - März 2024
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  • Lobo Wolf Park and Sanctuary

    3. Februar 2024 in Spanien ⋅ ☀️ 14 °C

    As we wanted to just take it easy for a few days, we went for a short walkabout to get a feel of a Saturday in Antequera and to figure out the layout of the city. Chris got a visitors’ map from the tourist office and we checked out what things were available for us to see. And we found the perfect thing to do for a couple of hours and in nature - the Lobo or Wolf Park. It’s not considered a zoo. It’s an educational centre for learning about the habits and behaviours of wolves.

    Antequera’s Lobo Park was built with the idea of preserving the flora and fauna in a unique natural area. It’s a park that covers approximately 100,000 square kilometres and where wolves live in packs naturally without too much human intervention. The wolves are treated in a way so that they learn from their parents to tolerate the presence of humans but without having to give up their own animal hierarchy.

    We booked an English tour on the park’s website and drove 6 km to the property. There was one other Spanish couple and their two young kids with us. The guide, a German, spoke Spanish and English fluently and was able to answer all of our questions as she works with the wolves and knows each one by name.

    There were four types of wolves - Timber wolves from Canada, Tundra wolves from the Hudson Bay Area, European wolves from Russia, Poland and Romania and Iberian wolves from the Iberian Peninsula.

    In addition to the wolves, Lobo Park is also home to other animals (mostly rescued) such as a fox family and domesticated farm animals. Several animals were ‘pets’ that the owners could not take care of when the animals matured.

    Toward the end of our tour, we heard the wolves calling/howling to each other. It was pretty cool to hear the sound in the mountains. At the end, one of the guides started to howl and wouldn’t you know it, all the wolves started howling. What a cool experience for us!
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  • The Ephebe, boy statue
    Socializing on a Sunday afternoonThe courtyard of the museumPaintings showing the way artifacts were used.For KarenThe city within the wallsThe stairwell of the museumReligious jewellery used to dress the statuesToral's workToo much stuff!A dead immigrant with all his worldly possessionsNot small!Toral's words

    The Museo Municipal

    4. Februar 2024 in Spanien ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

    It’s a warm Sunday afternoon and we just got back from a delightful walk.

    There were a lot of people sitting in the numerous squares, eating their lunches, drinking wine and beer and socializing. It was nice to see, but we were headed to the municipal museum. We would stop for a beer in the sun afterwards.

    The museum opened officially in 1972, after a group of local citizens discovered a bronze sculpture named 'The Ephebe of Antequera' (ephebe is an young man in ancient Greece who has just reached manhood or citizen status), measuring 1.54 metres, tall and thought to date back to the first century AD.

    The Madrid museum wanted the statue as Antequera didn’t have a proper and secure museum for such a treasure, but the people in town didn’t want to give it up. It was great motivation for the townspeople to find a building and create a museum. And that’s what they did.

    The Palace which houses the museum is a beautiful building, dating from the 18th century with a cut-brick tower, cloistered patio and elaborate staircase - Andalusian Baroque architecture. There is no entry fee to see the exhibits.

    The museum is on four levels. The lowest level took us through the pre-history of the area, including information about the Dolmens of Antequera that we are planning to visit soon. Someone had done a great job with all the paintings in the exhibits that showed the artifacts in use.

    The next level looks at the Romans and Visigoths. The Roman era brought great prosperity to Antequera (named "the Ancient City", or Antikaria, by them). The boy statue is on that floor as well as other well-preserved artefacts and mosaics that were found in the remains of a Roman villa in 1998.

    The third level has some impressive glass and pottery exhibits from the Moorish period and fine silverware from the 15th – 18th centuries.

    A fine arts section houses baroque paintings and sculptures, as well as paintings by Antonio Mohedano (1561-1625), who lived in Antequera. as well as 17 paintings by local contemporary painter Cristóbal Toral (1940).

    We loved Toral’s paintings and all of them had a message. He painted people with piles and piles of suitcases. We read that to mean that as we travel through life we accumulate too much stuff. It could also mean that in life we are surrounded by things, or people, and we really don’t know what their contents or history are. Not sure what his message was but we did like his work.

    The lady told us a little bit more about Toral. Seventy years ago, a group of hunters went into a small remote hut in the countryside and asked the owner for a drink of water. Inside they saw some pictures painted by his son, and told the dad that the boy ought to be sent to the Arts and Crafts school in the village. That man was a charcoal seller, whose wife had left him, and he didn’t have any way to get the boy to Antequera. The hunters chipped in together to buy the boy a bike so he could start the course. And that was the start to his career as a painter.

    We felt that the museum did an excellent job in describing the varied and interesting history of Antequera. The pieces that they had were in great shape and the art gallery on the top floor was wonderful.

    We left the museum, sat in the square in front of it and had our beers in the sun.
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  • El Torcal Park

    5. Februar 2024 in Spanien ⋅ ☁️ 11 °C

    After a few days of ‘rest’, we knew we were ready to do a short hike in a park in the mountains just south of Antequera. We have seen several brochures advertising this place so decided to go.

    The park is officially known as “Paraje Natural Torcal de Antequera” (“Torcal de Antequera Natural Park” in English). It is known for its unusual landforms and has one of the most impressive karst landscapes in Europe. We saw karst topography on Mallorca and Cuba. It is always amazing to see with its barren, rocky ground, caves, sinkholes, sometimes underground rivers, and the absence of streams and lakes on its surface.

    “El Torcal” refers to the mountain range (the Sierra del Torcal) which is made up of limestone formed about 150 million years ago. The landscapes we saw in the park were created by millions of years of erosion and dissolution by water (karstification). At one time, the whole area was underwater. We saw fossils of sea creatures, anemones. It’s hard to believe that it was under the sea as we were 4,000’ up in the mountains.

    The 30 minute drive to the park was beautiful. Few houses, flowering almond trees, the mountains and views out over the countryside.

    We arrived at the Visitor Centre at around 11:30 am. and started our walk from the parking centre. There are several trails but we picked the 3 km yellow circular route that takes about 2 1/2 hours to walk.

    Immediately, we were introduced to what we would be doing during the next couple of hours - scrambling and climbing over a very stony and irregular terrain with an incredible landscape. ‘Otherworldly’ is a good word to use. I am also very sure that there have been many sprained ankles during this hike!

    We met a couple from Wyoming and walked with them. They were in Antequera too for a few days - mostly for the good hiking opportunities. Andy was a retired Yellowstone park ranger and Denise had worked in the travel industry. Both interesting people.

    It was a magical place to spend a few hours under blue skies and the sun and with great company. We are happy we went.
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  • Antequera’s Tuesday Outdoor Market

    6. Februar 2024 in Spanien ⋅ ☁️ 11 °C

    I think that most of the coastal resorts in this area have market days for tourists on Saturdays and Sundays. Antequera’s street market is for its residents and is held on Tuesdays from 9 - 2 pm, behind the bullring.

    The resort markets tend to sell ‘branded’ and more expensive clothing and handbags, handmade jewellery, and items for presents to take home as souvenirs.

    In Antequera the market focuses on the needs of the local population like Mexican tianguis, so they have quite a cross-section of goods.

    Clothing takes up probably the largest area of the market. There were stalls offering t-shirts, shorts, underwear, shoes, jeans, shirts and dresses for women. There were at least two large stalls selling fabrics for curtains, table cloths, and bedding.

    And it also had several stalls for fruit and vegetables, as well as smaller areas for spices, candies and olives. Prices were good.

    We ended up buying some sports socks for Chris, olives (after trying a lot of different kinds!), some candies and asparagus.
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  • From an Antequera brochure
    Trebuchet ball. Imagine that hitting a castle wall!Roman ruinsOld castle walls and entryThe lower wall and walkway is the barbicanThe Giant's ArchEmbedded gravestonesThe bell towerLooking down into tge dungeonMote trebuchet ballsThe view from the towerView from the White towerLion, Lilies and castlr

    The Fortress on the Hill

    6. Februar 2024 in Spanien ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    Today, we were like kids exploring an old castle without supervision.

    The Alcazaba, fortress, is on a hill and just a 10 - 15 minute walk way from our apartment. We can see it from our balcony. We waited until today to visit it as it has free entry on Tuesday afternoons.

    By the way, a Alcazaba or Alcazar is a castle for the leaders in a small city. It included a mosque and houses for the soldiers and workers of the palace and walls to protect the leaders against external attacks and against local revolts.

    We walked up the hill, always up, and found the church beside the castle. It isn’t actually a functioning church any more. Many of its art pieces were moved to another church in 1692. It’s only used for lectures and concerts now. But inside there were a few interesting objects. One was a very large stone ball for a trebuchet, a giant slingshot, that was a weapon used in medieval times. Several of these balls were found in the area.

    Another object was a huge parade float a Tarasca, of a woman on a dragon with 7 heads!
    This particular object has seven heads, echoing the seven deadly sins and the dragon from the Apocalypse. The woman represents faith and the triumph of Christ over sin.

    From the church, we used Google maps to try to find the entrance to the castle but along with several other people, we ended up doing a big circle around the castle and not finding it. The walk was great but the signage was not. Eventually a local pointed the way and we had to retrace our steps.

    Once we found our way in, we were on our own - no guide and little signage. We just explored and it was fun. There were several areas where we had to use our imaginations to figure what the area was used for it was all good. The dungeon was a deep, dark hole in the ground and the well had the typical curved roof and a fountain.

    The highlight for us was to climb up to the top of the big clock/bell tower. It houses the original clock and bell. The pendulum was a huge rock. A little daunting but with great views over the city. We just started going down when the bell started ringing. That was a shocker! Thank heavens we weren’t standing next to it!

    We learned a new word - barbican - which is a 2nd defensive wall on the outside of the castle.

    Antequera has a very long history. It’s name comes from the Roman period: “Antikaria” which means “ancient town”. Apart from a few historical records and some inscriptions there was no evidence of a Roman Anticaria until 1988, when excavations at the foot of the hill unearthed public baths which are dated from the 3rd century AD. The area they found was small, but it had all the facilities of a typical Roman bath, including three pools (hot, tepid and cold), and a place for exercising. Pieces of the mosaic tiles for floors are in the museum.

    The main access to the fortress is through a gate they call the Arch of the Giants. It was built in the mid-16th century. The wall is more than 2 metres thick and has Latin inscriptions relating to both Anticaria itself and other Roman cities that existed in its vicinity. There are also four large tombstones embedded in it.

    After a couple of hours of exploring and fantasizing,, we were ready for a cold beer and something to eat. We stopped at a little restaurant called LouLus and had a wonderful late lunch. Seafood brioche, bbq ribs and fries and ice cream. We’ll probably go back!

    P.S. Pretty soon I am going to need a break from all that walking up and down stairs and hills!
    .
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  • The head of the Indian looking upwards
    The backside of the mountain. Taken from a picture.The story of the two lovers who jumped to their deaths.

    Peña de los Enamorados

    7. Februar 2024 in Spanien ⋅ ☁️ 8 °C

    Ever since day 1 in Antequera, no matter where we are, we have seen a huge limestone mountain (880 m high) that has a peculiar shape – it looks like the head of an Indian lying down and looking up to the sky. Because of this, it is known as “The Indian of Antequera”.

    It has a more common name though - the Peña de los Enamorados or Lover’s Rock.

    There seem to be several legends about it. Here’s one -

    It is said that during the Conquest times a Castillian soldier, whose name was Tello, was caught by the Nasrid kingdom and put into Antequera’s prison. The daughter of the Muslim king, called Tazgona, visited the Christian soldier and they quickly fell in love.

    They finally escaped from the town and when the Muslim king found out what they had done, he sent a troop to recuperate his daughter. At the same time, the army from Castilla was coming to prepare a siege on Antequera.

    The lovers saw no way to be free, so they committed suicide throwing themselves from the craggy top of the rock. Since then, the rock has been called Peña de los Enamorados (Lovers’ Rock). I guess we would have called it Lovers’ Leap.

    At the peak of the rock there is supposed to be a stone statue of a young woman and a man embracing and leaning towards the ravine. It is said that when the sun sets the rock turns a reddish colour - the blood of both young people.

    We saw a similar statue in town when we first arrived. At the time we didn’t know what it symbolized, but now we do.

    In the next blog, I will write a little more about the mountain’s significance.
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  • The little museum with a great short film. See the Indian head in the background.Placing the giant wall slabsPart of the movie we sawThe roofThe dolmanIn line with the Indian headA deep well, perhaps Roman?LavenderThe newer dolman with brick-like wallsThe roofThis is a photo of a display in the museum. The lumpy hills with no trees are where the dolmans are.

    Antequera’s Ancient Dolmens

    7. Februar 2024 in Spanien ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    Antequera has one of the largest and most important prehistoric burial sites in Spain, dating from the Bronze Age (3,500 B.C.) They are among the oldest objects on the planet and they are located only a short walk away from where we are living, on the outskirts of town.

    The Antequera Dolmens are essentially Spain’s Stonehenge and were declared a UNESCO World Heritage site in 2016. They are 1,200 years older than Stonehenge in England.

    A dolman is a single chamber tomb consisting of two of more vertical megaliths supporting a large flat horizontal table of stone, then covered with earth so it is like an oval, underground stone igloo. From the outside, they just look like a big hill.

    They were used for holy rituals and funerals. The Antequera dolmens are unique in that they face mountainscapes, instead of the sun.

    Two of them, Menga and Viera, were constructed between 3000 and 3500 B.C. The third one, El Romeral, was built around 2500 B.C. Menga is the largest and oldest of the three. It’s been called one the “best preserved marvels on earth.” Its roof is estimated to weigh 200 tons.

    We visited the first two dolmans after watching a very informative video in the interpretive centre. It showed a theory of how the blocks were cut and how they were moved from the quarry that is 1 km away. Pretty amazing considering that these dolmans were built with primitive tools, close to 6,000 years ago. It reminded us of how experts think the pyramids in Egypt were built. Where there’s a will, there’s a way!

    The Menga Dolmen in the largest in Europe at nearly 30m long. The largest upright stone weighs 180 tonnes. By way of comparison, the heaviest stone at Stonehenge, in Wiltshire in the UK, weighs 40 tonnes.

    Its height gradually increases from 2.7m at the entrance to 3.5m at the far end. The widest point is 6m towards the back. There are three pillars that support four enormous 250-tonne roof stones.

    Each side is made of 12 four metre tall upright stones and one stone closing the far end. The roof is made of five stones; a sixth that was placed over the entrance is missing. The tomb is covered by a 50m-diameter cover of stones and soil.

    If you are inside and you look down the passage, you can the Peña de los Enamorados or the Indian Head framed in the entrance. That’s the mountain that I talked about in an earlier blog. During the the summer solstice, the sun rises directly over the peak and shines into the chamber.

    Another dolman is aligned towards the Torcal mountain that we hiked in, the other day.
    Apparently, these dolmans are the only ones in continental Europe that are aligned towards a natural landmark.

    A mystery re the Menga dolman. At the back of this giant dolmen, in the centre of the floor, is a 30m (100 feet!) deep well perfectly carved from the bedrock and with water at its bottom. But why is it here? Some people think that the Romans built it. But why? There is a lot of water around the site. Why such a deep well?

    Four kilometres down the road, there is another dolman that is much newer, built during the late Copper Age, 1,800 B.C. It has 2 chambers and a very long hallway.The walls are made of small pieces of limestone, like bricks rather than the giant stones used earlier. It still has the giant slabs on the roof though.

    It was hard to keep our hands to ourselves. We just wanted to feel the history in the stones…
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  • This building was painted on all four sides, top to bottom!
    Due to the extended drought in Spain, this lagoon has dried out.Can you see the flamingoes?Metal artAnother view of the painted buildingInteresting abandoned houses

    Pink Flamingoes? In Spain?

    8. Februar 2024 in Spanien ⋅ ☁️ 7 °C

    The reason why we are in Antequera is because before coming to Spain we started following an informative Facebook blog, Mapping Spain, written by an ex-Canadian, Frank Thomae. Frank and his wife, Lisette, wrote a great blog extolling the virtues of Antequera and we were intrigued so we made plans to visit this city and possibly meet this interesting couple.

    We contacted Frank who made plans for us to get together at a tapas bar on Friday. We are looking forward to that. We mentioned that we wanted to see the nearby lagoon with flamingoes and invited Frank to come with us.

    We met and had lots of good travel stories to share as they have been to a lot of the same places we have been to in Mexico. All of us have itchy feet!

    Anyways, the Laguna de Fuente de Piedra is located near Antequera and next to the town from which it takes its name. It is the largest lagoon in Andalusia and is home to the largest colony of pink flamingos in the entire Iberian Peninsula.

    Their presence in this lagoon though depends on the amount of water that the lagoon has. Usually in autumn and winter there will be small groups and from February, if the water level is good, larger groups of up to 8,000 couples will nest there and will lay a single egg. Once these little ones learn to fly (at three months), between August and September, they will leave for Africa.

    The lagoon is fed by underground water. When the water table drops through drought and pumping for irrigating the surrounding crops, the lake level drops too. There are been a drought in Andalucia and there was hardly any water in the lagoon, but we did see flamingos in the distance.

    There are several other species of birds here also. Probably here because of the water. When we got there, birders with their binoculars were checking them out.

    We read that the visitors centre is excellent and very informative but sadly it wasn’t open when we were there.

    We said, “Hasta luego”, to Frank and will meet up with him and Lisette tomorrow night for tapas at a local bar, Rincon de Lola.
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  • From our balcony
    The beginning of the convoyKids hanging out of the school windowsTractors starting to come from the other direction

    “Spanish Farmers Join Wave of Protests”

    9. Februar 2024 in Spanien ⋅ 🌧 11 °C

    We have been hearing about the farmers’ protests in Barcelona and Malaga but today, in quiet Antequera, the protests were In action. Mind you, a lot of honking but not for long and very organized.

    A parade of tractors came down our street in the pouring rain and it was awesome to see. There were about 80 clean tractors coming from both directions and it was actually pretty exciting. The school kids across the street were sticking their heads out of the windows and cheering. Lol. Quickly, the windows closed and it was obvious that teachers had something to do with that.

    Here’s an abridged article that I read about the protests.

    Spanish Farmers Join Waves of Protest

    By Guy Hedgecoe abridged
    BBC News, Aranda de Duero

    Farmers in Spain have joined their European counterparts in staging protests across the country.

    Like farmers elsewhere, they demand more flexibility from the European Union, tighter controls on the produce of non-EU countries and more help from their government.

    On Tuesday, farmers took to the streets of agricultural areas in Spain's northern interior, driving tractors in convoys, beeping horns, waving Spanish flags and brandishing placards.

    Spain's farmers have similar grievances to their counterparts in France, Belgium, the Netherlands, Italy and other countries that have been protesting recently.
    They say that regulations which form part of the EU's Common Agricultural Policy (CAP), along with high fuel and energy costs, make it difficult for them to make a profit.

    The costs, when it comes to producing wheat and barley, are very high," said Esteban, a cereal farmer who preferred not to give his surname who was protesting in Aranda de Duero. "You've got to pay for fertiliser, pesticides, fuel - it's killing us. We have to pay very high prices and yet we sell at low prices."

    “We just want a future for farming and right now, we don't see it."

    The plight of Spanish farmers has been compounded by drought. Many areas of the country have not seen normal levels of rain in recent months which is affecting harvests. Spain is the world's biggest olive oil producer, but prices have been pushed up by low production. Last week, Catalonia declared a state of emergency due to a three-year drought, the longest on record.
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  • Tapas, Wine and a Fun Night

    9. Februar 2024 in Spanien ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

    We had great fun last night with Frank and Lissette, originally from Montreal, eating tasty tapas, drinking Spanish wine/beer, sharing travel stories and laughing. Laughing a lot! The four of us clicked and we definitely enjoyed our noisy night out at the Taberna El Rincón de Lola. Great little place with a grumpy-looking owner. Lol.

    Tapas include any appetizer that can be served in a bar with a beer or wine. They can be peanuts, chips, olives or small servings of seafood, sandwiches, or different hot and cold appetizers. At Lola’s they cost between 2 and 3 euros. Pretty good price.

    Small "tapas" are often part of the price of the drink, as we saw in Grenada. A typical hobby of Spaniards is going from bar to bar, drinking beer or wine and having different tapas.
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