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- czwartek, 13 lutego 2025
- ☁️ 10 °C
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ArgentynaUshuaia54°48’37” S 68°17’55” W
Antarctica Day 1 - Setting Sail
13 lutego, Argentyna ⋅ ☁️ 10 °C
I am hugely excited. Today I am actually heading to ANTARCTICA. It will be continent no.7 for me and with that the very last continent I will explore on my trip around the world. After a cancelled expedition cruise in November, this time it is actually happening. Again, I am going to ANTARCTICA - how cool is that? Pinching myself.
To get there, I will take an expedition cruise ship, the MV Plancius, which can host 110 passengers plus the crew - so a fairly small vessel that is designed for the more adventurous spirits. Before reaching the Antarctic peninsula, however, we have to cross the infamous drake passage, which is known for having among the roughest waters in the world. But, it can also be calm, so l am definitely hoping for the latter bit.
Anyway, after a wild and amazing time in Rio, I had a few days in Ushuaia to relax and get some last minute supplies before boarding the ship. Going from 35 degrees and sun to 3 degrees and cloudy and rainy, was definitely a bit of a shock.
Then it was the day of embarkation. I woke up excited and ready to embark on this incredible journey to one of the last true wildernesses on this planet. At 11am, I left my Airbnb to drop off my luggage, spent a few hours in a cafe and at 4pm headed to the vessel for embarkation. Seeing the ship in front of me gave me a little rush of excitement - this was actually happening.
Once on board, I was shown my cabin and I was in luck. I was paired with the husband of the board's doctor, so I had an inside line into the ship's medical stash. I shamelessly took advantage of that and got myself a patch to stick behind my ear to deal with the seasickness (don't ask me how it works, I just hope it will!). After checking out our cabin, we both went to explore the ship a little and made friends on the way.
At 5pm, the crew assembled all guests and it was time for the safety instructions and a safety drill. So we all went back to our cabins, got the life jackets, waited for the announcement of an emergency and assembled in the briefing room, where we put on our life jackets and were led to the lifeboats. It def sounds more dramatic than it was - it basically was a calm processions with lots of chatting and laughter in between.
At 6pm, we set sail. Leaving the harbour and actually saying goodbye to Ushuaia and South America was a surreal feeling. The next time I would step on a continent would be Antarctica. It still didn't feel real. A couple of friends I already made within my short time on board and I stood outside and looked out into the Beagle Channel - the pathway to the white continent.
We also checked the weather to see how bad the Drake Passage would be and unfortunately we were heading straight into a storm with waves forecasted to be between 6-9m high. Great start. Haha.
This didn't dim our spirits and weirdly enough, we were actually interested to feel those kind of waves. I mean, how bad can sea sickness get? I will certainly find out tomorrow, but with pills and patches I, at least, felt prepared.
Next on the agenda was an introduction of the captain and the crew and oh my do they have cool jobs. Survivalist, scientists for glaciers and whales, ocean photographer, kayak/camping-guide, etc. So so cool!
Then it was time for a delicious dinner with views over the Beagle Channel before an evening of chatter about the trip, life, etc. with fellow passengers and the crew from all over the world. So far, the sea sickness has not kicked in, but in all honesty, the Beagle Channel was supposed to be relatively quiet. At midnight, we are going to hit the Drake Passage and during the introduction our guide told us that things will get "very interesting". Let's see
But with that, a wonderful and surprisingly eventful first day came to an end. It will take us 2.5days or 1000km to reach Antarctica and tomorrow will be all about the Drake Passage.
Hopefully, the gods of the sea and angels of sea sickness are on our side.
My fellow passengers seem very cool and it looks as it this is going to be a really fun trip - potentially a once-in-a-lifetime journey. So bring it on! Czytaj więcej
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- Dzień 490
- piątek, 14 lutego 2025 UTC
- 🌬 7 °C
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Drake Passage56°49’58” S 65°28’60” W
Antarctica - Day 2 - The Drake Passage
14 lutego, Drake Passage ⋅ 🌬 7 °C
On the second day of our voyage we entered the infamous Drake Passage - the waterway with among the strongest winds and highest waves in the world. To get to Antarctica from Argentina, crossing the Drake passage is necessary and regarded as a rite of passage.
The weather forecast yesterday suggested that we were heading into a storm within the Drake Passage and once we left the Beagle Channel, we could certainly feel the change in how the vessels moved.
While I did not feel sea sick the entire day, sleeping last night was an impossible task.
Rocking in the waves I thought might put me to sleep, but the waves were too high and all over the place. Instead of the ship just going up and down, it felt like being in a washing machine with the ship tilting right to left, then front to back and all over the place. Yeah, sleeping was impossible, but all the seasickness medication certainly had done their job throughout the day - thank god. Other passengers were not so lucky.
Anyway, the second day was basically just a day on sea, or more specifically through the Drake Passage. Still, there were quite a few things going on. First of all, we got a safety briefing for the Zodicas and what and what not to do when being close to wildlife or once we set foot on Antarctica in a couple of days.
Then a couple of us passengers went to the bridge and learned quite a lot about navigation, the instruments, careers, etc which was highly interesting to me. We also stepped outside and played around with the leaning of the ship, always making sure we wouldn't be falling off the ship, as on some occasions, the ship was leaning towards one side quite heavily.
After lunch, though, I took the opportunity to have a little nap, as even though I did not feel sick, I certainly felt tired and maybe a bit drowsy. I was woken up by the Public Announcement to pick up our boots for the rest of the voyage and we had some of our gear that we would wear when stepping foot on Antarctica inspected for dirt, loose items/papers, etc.
Following another quick nap - certainly the most popular thing to do on the ship - I attended a Wildlife Photography introductory course (rather basic, I would say), before getting another briefing about mountaineering and dangers/safety of when traversing cravasses.
A delicious dinner basically concluded the day. While the Drake Passage, its waves and the movements of the ship were certainly not pleasant, it was better than I imagined and the fact that I did not feel sea sick so far was promising. Still, there is one full day left crossing the Drake before arriving on Antarctica and the weather forecast for the next day is for slightly worse conditions than today. In all honesty, I take 'slightly' worse! Czytaj więcej
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- sobota, 15 lutego 2025 UTC
- 🌬 0 °C
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Drake Passage62°23’23” S 62°20’7” W
Antarctica - Day 3 - Seeing Iceberg/Land
15 lutego, Drake Passage ⋅ 🌬 0 °C
The night was slightly better than yesterday, but the sometimes heavy rocking of the ship means that I did not get a very good sleep again. At this point, it's all part of the adventure. That’s at least what I told myself.
Anyway, today was the last day of crossing the Drake Passage and the waves were relatively calm in the morning, but certainly picked up in height in the afternoon. Luckily, until this point all the medicine against seasickness was working and apart from feeling tired sometimes, I felt totally ok.
Since today was a full day on sea, we had quite a lot of informative presentations scattered across the day ranging from whales, birds, glaciers, etc to the upcoming more exciting activities (i.e. camping without a tent, kayaking and mountaineering).
So, after a heartful lunch, it was time to sign up for all the various activities that we would be doing whilst being in Antarctica. For me, that means after a full day of exploring and setting foot on Antarctica via Zodiac the next day, I would head back to the continent after dinner to go camping.
Camping without a tent in Antarctica - yeah, crazy. But then, I have already done enough crazy stuff on this trip to last for a few lifetimes, so what is one more? ! definitely am super excited for that, you cannot imagine!
That said the day flew by relatively quickly. I did spend quite a lot of time on the bridge again talking to the second officer about navigation, a career in the maritime field, hierarchies onboard a ship, the equipment, etc. It was a great opportunity to learn more about how a ship works and the faces and stories behind it. In addition, we spotted a ship on collision course (but it changed course very well in advance) and my first ever proper iceberg on the starboard side of the ship. This was truly the first sign that we are heading closer to Antarctica - in fact, we would reach the South Shetland Islands by around 8pm and the continent of Antarctica just past midnight.
This meant, after dinner, a few of us went to the lobby, chatted the night away and tried to spot some wildlife (esp whales) that would hopefully show up more frequently over the next few days, as we headed deeper towards the Antarctic Peninsula.
This pretty much concluded Day 3 and a wave of excitement captured me and some of my fellow passengers, as tomorrow would be a day I would hopefully never forget. I mean, according to plan, I would be setting foot on the 7th continent, I would see penguins and hopefully some whales en route and to top it all off, would camp under the Antarctic stars with the silent sound of nature around me.
Man, I cannot wait - let's do this! Czytaj więcej
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- niedziela, 16 lutego 2025
- ☁️ -1 °C
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Bransfield Strait64°39’33” S 62°39’40” W
Antarctica - Day 4 - Continent No. 7
16 lutego, Bransfield Strait ⋅ ☁️ -1 °C
It finally happened. I have reached the 7th continent on this journey and in my life. At 10.31am my feed touched ground on Orne Island, Antarctica. This all still felt so surreal when I did it and it took a second to appreciate where I was - literally at the end of the world, on the white continent that I have so far only seen on a map and never really thought there is any chance to get there without being a scientist. And now I was here, indeed - Antarctica!
After reaching the island by zodiac and glowing from a sense of accomplishment, it was time to explore the islands and its very cute, friendly but also clumsy inhabitants. I am talking about PENGUINS - more specifically Gentoo and Chinstrap penguins. Walking around the island and watching them go about their daily lives (i.e. feeding, running, walking, jumping, etc) was incredibly fun and provided loads of opportunities to take some incredible photos. I wish, however, that I had a proper camera with me for some incredible close-up shots, but the iPhone still did a remarkable job.
Anyway, we spent a total of 1.5h on the island, which was plenty to appreciate wildlife in its purest and cutest form. I was in awe, not just about the place I was in, but also about the cute little penguins. Such great 'birds'.
Once back on the boat, we had a quick lunch and then we were off again, to Demois, which hosts a historical hut and is beautifully located in a small bay with snow-covered mountains rising behind it, providing a perfect backdrop. Once again, we explored the island and its penguins and were just in love with how cute they are - especially when they start walking with their typical ‚wings-out' walk.
The island also offered some stunning views, too, and after 4 days of grey skies the sun and blue skies made an appearance, dipping the water and mountains into a magical light. It really was a perfect first day in Antarctica.
That was not all, however. It would get even better, as a few days before I signed up to go open-air camping. Yes, you read that right. I would be sleeping in a sleeping bag, with no tents in one of the most inhospitable places on the planet. Why you ask? Well, Why not? Haha.
So, after dinner, the people who signed up for camping went out with the zodiacs to Demois. We were given a biovac, a sleeping bag, a mat, and a shovel to dig our own 'sleeping hole'.
Since I was on the first zodiac towards the camping spot, I had the prime location right by the water. In addition, by the time we arrived, the sun was just about to set behind the horizon, transforming the white landscape into a soft golden colour. If that is not magical, I don't know what is. We were truly lucky with the weather.
All of us successfully managed to dig our own 'sleeping holes' with a little wall to the side for protection against the wind. We chatted, took photos and admired the location for about an hour before it was time to go to sleep.
I am not gonna lie, it definitely wasn't a relaxing sleep, but looking up at the stars, at the mountains by just turning your head to the right, listening to nearby penguins or enjoying the Silence of Antarctica was just breath-taking. It will definitely be a night that I will not forget for the rest of my life.
I mean, I was open-air camping in Antarctica - you have to be a bit crazy in your head to do something like that. It was an experience like no other, though. Stunning and magical are the words that come to mind (slightly uncomfortable, too, maybe). Czytaj więcej
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- poniedziałek, 17 lutego 2025
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Southern Ocean65°6’53” S 64°4’24” W
Antarctica - Day 5 - Mountaineering Time
17 lutego, Southern Ocean ⋅ ❄️ -1 °C
Today, we were woken up at 4.30am. Yes, it was very early, but it was one of the most beautiful wake-ups in my life. I just had to open my eyes to see snow-capped mountains and the first sunlight shining upon their summits. I could hear penguins coming to life and going about their daily business. All while I was still tucked into my sleeping bag and bivouac being reasonably cozy.
As we were packing up, the golden light of the sun became more intense by the minute and just before we left, the entire sky was bathed into a magical colour that was absolutely worth the early wake-up. Open-air camping really is something special - and doing that in Antarctica is the cherry on the top.
Anyway, once we packed everything together and closed our sleeping pits, we took the zodiac back to our ship. However, on the way, we saw a minke whale in the distance before it came super close to our zodiac (like not more than 3-4m away). It was honestly breath-taking and by this point it wasn't even 5.30am in the morning. I guess, this is Antarctica.
Later in the morning, our ship was heading to a new destination and on the way, we saw at least more 5-6 whales together with countless cute penguins feeding in the water and showing us their fins - even though they were a bit further in the distance.
At around 8.45am, our ship had the first challenge to master - crossing through the narrow Lemaire Channel, which has a huge iceberg on the left and a mountain on the right that we have to navigate through. It was a cool experience, as everyone on board came out to watch. Obviously, we made it through successfully.
Following a delicious breakfast, it was time for our next landing. This time on Pleneau Island.
The island is famous for Adele Penguins and the iceberg graveyard. So, once we set foot on land, we walked up to the viewpoint, passing a colony of Adele Penguins, its adjacent penguin highway and watched the daily life of the penguins. The cool thing, however, was the backdrop, which was dotted with hundreds of small and big icebergs with its white and super shining and blue colours. What a view it was! Again, "This is Antarctica", I thought to myself. It was just majestic. And all of this, before midday!
In the afternoon, I had booked myself for a little mountaineering hike to get a birds-eye view of Antarctica. Thus, we took a zodiac to our landing site, put on a harness/rope and snowshoes (yes, snowshoes, how cool!) and went off to climb a small little mountain. The weather had turned by this point, unfortunately, and instead of sun, the sky was just white and grey. The hike up was interesting insofar that it was my very first time to use snowshoes, but otherwise nothing to write home about. Once we were up on the ridge and had a view of both sides of the little mountain and the iceberg graveyard, the views were incredible.
While not necessarily beautiful, the views were very much representative for a typical view in Antarctica. Icey, mystic, grey, eerie, full of icebergs and mountains with our ship looking quite small in the distance. I could feel a sense of silence over this sound/area that was simply peaceful. And this was the view during the entire way down and back to our landing site.
That's where we were supposed to be picked up. However, once we reached the landing site, the zodiac could not easily reach it because too much ice had concentrated right in its vicinity. The zodiac had to really slowly make its way through the ice, freeing the propeller from underwater sea ice. It finally made it and we all embarked and had a rough, but fun ride back to the ship.
After dinner, we were all very tired. After all, it was a very long day with a 4.30am wake-up, a landing with amazing views and mountaineering to a great viewpoint. I still had to pinch myself that this all happened in Antarctica, literally at the end of the world. I really cannot wait what the next few days will bring, as two days down here in the white continent have already been absolutely spectacular and blown my mind. Worth every single penny. Czytaj więcej
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- wtorek, 18 lutego 2025
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Southern Ocean65°4’25” S 64°2’55” W
Antarctica - Day 6 - Kayak With Icebergs
18 lutego, Southern Ocean ⋅ ❄️ 1 °C
This morning it was time to get as close as possible to the Antarctic water without actually being in it. In other words, it was time to go kayaking. It's something that I have looked forward to and the spot where we would do it, looked picture perfect.
Even before we went into the kayaks, we had already seen multiple whales popping up, penguins swimming in the icy water and icebergs cruising around at a glacial pace. I couldn't wait to go into the kayaks and explore this area from another perspective.
So, we got suited up in special kayak gear and ready to hop into a zodiac that would take us and the kayaks to the starting point of our kayaking adventure. However, we were just about to go down the gangway to the zodiacs, when, for the first time in my life, I saw a whale breach the water (ie, going up high and splashing into the water), I mean, the kayaking hadn't even started and I already had the first highlight of my day. Wow!
Then it was time to go kayaking. So Meghan (my Kayak partner) and I jumped into a kayak and after a little 'driving' test to see if we have what it takes to stir a kayak we were off to chase whales, penguins and icebergs. One of the first sightings of our kayak trip was a minke whale, which we saw from not too far away how it lifted up its fluke to dive down deep. It was a majestic sight - picture a tail in the air, icebergs all around, the ship in the distance and penguins jumping in and out of the water. And us in the kayaks. A truly magical moment.
We chased a few more humpback whales afterwards, but unfortunately, none of them showed us their fluke, but just a little of their backs as they went down to feed. That said, to see whales from a kayak in Antarctica was incredible.
Once we could not spot the whales anymore, we decided to explore the area and in particular its icebergs. The rules normally dictate that we should keep twice the distance from an iceberg compared to its height, but who can really measure that from a kayak. Obviously we did not go too close to the big ones, but for the smaller ones we got relatively close to truly admire its colours - especially the shiny dark intense blue that is impossible to describe. I always loved white and blue but the combinations of both in an iceberg is just ridiculously stunning.
Towards the end of the 2-2.5h kayak excursion our hands and feet were definitely cold and we were happy to warm ourselves up with some nice hot chocolate and a delicious lunch. By now, it was only half a day.
Thus, after lunch and some relaxing time, at 2.30pm, we all got ready again to jump into the zodiacs to make landfall on an island. Yeah, if you thought I would go on a relaxing luxury cruise, you were wrong. It's full-on action time during the entire day. I absolutely love it!
Anyway, Peterman Island. We had roughly 2h to explore the island and its inhabitants - mainly Gentoo but also a few Adele Penguins. After three days of seeing penguins, one might think that I would grow tired of seeing them, but not at all. They are too cute, too clumsy, too adorable and too fascinating to watch. The way they walk, the way they feed, the way they jump, the way they just stand around with their wings stretched out is simply beautiful. We are also lucky with all our guides as they are incredibly helpful and knowledgeable about animals, the history of Antarctica and future trip ideas (who wants to go snorkling with Orcas in Norway in mid-November?).
But yeah, that was day 6 on my trip to Antarctica. After dinner, a couple of us sat together in the lounge with a few glasses of wine and simply talked about life, travel, Antarctica, all while watching the white continent pass by outside the window. At this point, I was very tired, but happy tired. And I felt that this is not the last time I would come to this continent. It is way too amazing to visit it just once! Czytaj więcej
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- Dzień 495
- środa, 19 lutego 2025
- ☁️ -3 °C
- Wysokość: Poziom morza
- 64°53’41” S 62°52’12” W
Antarctica - Day 7 - Zodica & Plunging
19 lutego ⋅ ☁️ -3 °C
Today was my first time for a proper zodiac cruise. In short, this means that you hop on a zodiac with fellow travellers and a guide and cruise around a specific location looking at wildlife, glaciers, icebergs or all sorts of ice formations.
So, we geared up and jumped in the kayak in the hope of whales or another cool natural landscape. Before we even left the vessel, we had already seen two crabeater seals chilling out on an iceberg and thus it was our very first destination with the zodiac. As we reached the little iceberg that was floating around Paradise Harbour, a third seal was trying to get on that iceberg. It took a few failed attempts until it managed to get up there and it was honestly quite fun to watch it make its short way up.
The rest of the time in our zodiac, we cruised around in what looked like a sound, watched massive glaciers rising in front of us, making our way through a seabed of sea ice, watched a few more seals and passed by Brown Station (Argentinean), one of the oldest continuous research stations in the entire Antarctic continent. Its red houses provided a lovely backdrop to the white and blue colours that are the most dominant colours here on the most remote continent of our planet. And of course, we also saw lots of penguins again, on land breeding and resting and in the sea trying to catch some food.
One thing to mention is that so far, I have not grown tired of the white landscape, icebergs or the endless supply of penguins. As we are constantly changing our location, the landscape is also changing. As strange as it sounds, but white, grey, and blue can take an incredible variety of different shapes and forms. Last time there were countless icebergs, today lots of shelf ice, impressive glaciers and a research station and I am sure tomorrow will be different again. Plus, being on the lookout for all types of whales is actually quite fun. I still need to catch a close-up shot on my phone, though, which has so far proven to be rather difficult as whenever I don't pull out my phone, the whales put on a show, and when I do, they are rather calm and quiet. That is wildlife I guess.
Anyway, in the aftemoon we had a split landing/zodiac cruise, which means we were cruising with the zodiacs around Stony Point for one hour before making landfall. That particular zodiac cruise was nothing to write home about as we were trying to chase a whale that we saw earlier but it seemed to have disappeared. We still made a stop to see an impressive elephant seal and a colony of Gentoo Penguins, but the spectacular was missing (to be fair, maybe I was just too spoiled at this point!).
When we made landfall, I quickly headed up a small snowy hill to check out a Weddell Seal that seemed to be taking a nap. That one was a giant fatty as well. Afterwards, I headed up the hill to the top for some amazing views over the glacial Antarctic landscape that was unfolding in front of me. At some point, I was just standing there and taking it all in, wondering where on earth I was in that exact moment. In Antarctica, one of the most remote and inhospitable places on earth.
As I am writing this watching out the window at icebergs and snowcapped mountains, I still cannot really believe it. But, I digress. At the top we also did a little photo shoot with the Antarctic flag before sliding down the hill to capture some super cute waddle of penguins walking on the penguin highway just in front of me. It was yet another beautiful sight.
Then it was time for something I looked forward to and dreaded at the same time: The polar plunge, Basically, you dress down all the way to your swim shorts, and then jump into the water, which has about zero to maybe one degrees. Since our vessel wasn't equipped for jumping into the water, we basically walked into the sea from the beach at Stony Point. That was definitely much harder than just jumping in. In all honesty, I was close to chicken out, but then a few travellers motivated everyone and we decided to do it.
All I can say: holy fuck was that cold. We walked in, submerged in the ice cold water and went straight the fuck out of the water. The going-in was alright, the coming out felt like torture. My feet were numb as hell, I was shivering and all I could dream of was a warm shower. It is completely ridiculous if you think about it. The backdrop of snowy mountains, the cheering of the crew and other passengers, the photographers on the zodiac and the penguins watching us did provide a beautiful backdrop, though.
However, there was a little sense of accomplishment and pride to have done it as it felt like a little rite of passage when in Antarctica (similar to crossing the Drake Passage), but I can say that once back on the boat the shower felt like heaven. That was it for day 7 - again, a day full of action and activities. I am definitely tired, but very happy and grateful to be tired and experiencing this incredibly amazing place. Czytaj więcej
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- czwartek, 20 lutego 2025
- ❄️ -4 °C
- Wysokość: 3 m
- 64°50’35” S 62°31’44” W
Antarctica - Day 8 - Glacier Calving
20 lutego ⋅ ❄️ -4 °C
Another day in Antarctica. Today the plan was to do two landings first on Danco and then in Neko Harbour, followed by an Antarctic BBQ for dinner outside and a little bit of a party on board.
But first things first. I woke up a bit earlier to enjoy the tranquillity of Antarctica outside on the deck before the ship came to life. Being outside for literally only two minutes, I already spotted two pods of whales of maybe 6-7 whales in total. It wasn't even 7am by that point. I literally did not know what to think about this place except that it is majestic. Being here is certainly a huge privilege, but I felt I was making the most of it and couldn't wait what the day would bring.
Shortly after, we had breakfast before boarding the zodiacs to head to Danco for some penguin spotting and to get a beautiful view over the glacial landscape. As soon as we disembarked the zodiacs there was a waddle of penguins on the beach, practically welcoming us to Danco. On the island, we saw for the first time a real labyrinth of penguin highways, which the penguins used to get from the top of the hill down to the bottom. Of course, we had to cross some, but the penguins always have the right of way. Watching them waddle past us at a very short distance was amazing and sometimes they waited for us to clear the path before being on their way again.
Danco Island was a bit steeper and we zigzagged our way up to the top. On the way up, we saw multiple penguins slip and fall on their belly before quickly getting up and being on their way. One penguin seemed to have loads of fun, though, as he just slid down the hill on its belly, looking as if he was having the time of his life. With the snow-capped mountain and our expedition ship in the background it was just a perfect moment to capture on video.
Once at the top, we enjoyed the views over the glacial scenery, taking snaps, chatting to our guides and getting more tips for future adventures (Atlantic crossing from Ushuaia to Cape Verde anyone?). On the way back to our ship, we passed a couple of weddle seals chilling out on ice shelves, seemingly without a care in the world.
After a little lunch break on board and talking with fellow passengers about travel and life, we were, again, on our zodiacs on the way to Neko Harbour, Now, Neko Harbour is not an island, but actually located on continental Antarctica - just in case there was ever any doubt if I ever was properly on Antarctica.
Anyway, that landing would turn out to be the best one so far. Once we arrived, we had two options; left or right. We went right first and got really close to some beautiful Gentoo Penguins. Honestly, they are so adorable, I think I will never grow tired of seeing them go about their lives. Taking photos of penguin reflections, the way they waddle and just stand around to observe nature and, I guess, us, the chicks chasing their parents for food or their clumsy attempts of running fast and navigating obstacle is just too cute to ever get bored of.
Then came the highlight of the landing, the day, and a top 3 moments of this trip. Neko Harbour hosts a couple of glaciers, one of which is very close to the shore. And from our landing site we had the perfect view of the glacier. Now, a glacier is always active, breathing, moving and calving (ie pieces of ice cracking off the glacier and falling down into the water). Whilst we were there, a small piece of ice cracked and fell into the water below, giving way for a much bigger potential calving,
Thus, we stood there for at least 30 minutes with our cameras and phones waiting for the big part of ice to crack off. You know that it could potentially be a unique observation when the glaciolagist (yes, you read that right) onboard is also pulling out his phone. The wait was agonising as we just wanted to explore the rest of the island but, of course, not miss the calving. At least we could watch the penguins playing in the water and on the beach in the meantime.
Then, all of a sudden, there were lots of loud cracking sounds coming from the glacier. And shortly afterwards, not just the big piece of rock that we expected to crack off came down, but a large section of the entire front of the glacier. Falling into the water, it created cool waves heading towards us. The penguins and us went for higher ground, never leaving the waves out of sight. It was a truly spectacular moment and everyone was super hyped up after the anticipation and the ice calving that was a lot bigger than we thought. What a landing.
That wasn't the end of the it, however. After the calving, we walked up a small hill to look at a colony of young penguins (the penguin kindergarten basically), while enjoying a different perspective of the glacier from the top. The sun even made an appearance, bathing our vessel that was anchoring offshore in a bright yellow light.
While that was it for the landing today, there was still more to come in the evening. We had an Antarctic BBQ outside on the ship, with music, food, dancing and of course quite a few drinks. After dinner, they cleared the tables to create a little dance floor that the majority of passengers were just dancing the evening away. It was amazing and surreal at the same time. Dancing to all sorts of songs, while driving past seals chilling out on icebergs, floating pieces of ice in the water and the antarctic landscape unfolding in the distance. It might as well had been the southernmost party in the world at that time.
At some point, it started snowing heavily, and we went up to the bridge to enjoy the heavy snowfall in the bright searching lights of the ship in the dark night. It really was an incredible end to a pretty much perfect day. At this point, this 2-week Antarctica trip was the best trip I have ever taken - and it wasn't even over yet. Czytaj więcej
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- Dzień 497
- piątek, 21 lutego 2025
- ☁️ 0 °C
- Wysokość: Poziom morza
Bransfield Strait64°33’12” S 61°59’38” W
Antarctica - Day 9 - Encountering Whales
21 lutego, Bransfield Strait ⋅ ☁️ 0 °C
Today would be all about a magical whale encounter. But first things first. The morning activity was a zodiac cruise at Foyn Harbour, which is renowned for an abundance of wildlife and anearly 20th century shipwreck.
So, we jumped into the zodiac on the lookout for some whales. I haven't had a close whale encounter yet on this trip, so this really was my last chance to get close to these majestic animals. At the start, we were cruising around, looking at some cool icebergs and the odd seal, but didn't have any whale sightings.
However, after a while we saw a blow in the distance and immediately turned the zodiac around and were speeding towards the blow. Once we arrived, we had to search for a little bit longer to spot the whales, but found them within 5-10 minutes. In fact, there were two whales, probably a mother and her child. We turned off the engines and just floated in the water, letting the whales spot us and decide what to do with us.
Fortunately, at least one of the whales was very curious and started to explore our zodiac, swimming around us, diving underneath our boat and blowing water up high right next to our boat. He was really giving us a show. The highlight of this amazing encounter was when the whale lifted a fin out of the water and hit it on the water twice right next to our boat, splashing us with fresh ocean water - well, he pooped in the water before, so it was a mix of fresh ocean water and some whale poop probably. I loved every single second of it.
Watching the whale in its entire length and glory was truly spectacular and special. You cannot plan or buy this experience as, after all, it is wildlife and they do what they want. Even our zodiac driver, Valeria, said that this moment was the best of her 2024/25 season and I could see why. Yes, I can describe the encounter with words, but seeing it with my own eyes and the feeling of having that magical creature so close, I cannot put it into words that would do it justice. It might have been the most special moment of this already very special voyage to Antarctica. Plus on the same zodiac cruise we got some hot chocolate with rum while watching whales. I mean, this is life!
Back on the boat, we were all still buzzing with what just happened. Fortunately, it wasn't just our zodiac which got a show, so we shared all sorts of videos with cool whale behaviour and underwater shots. For almost all of us, this was the highlight of the trip.
After calming down a bit over lunch, we were heading to our last landing on the Antarctica Peninsula - Portal Point. For the first time, there was no wildlife on this landing (neither penguins, nor seals), so we walked up to a couple of viewpoints to enjoy the glacial scenery and the many icebergs that were scattered around in the wide ocean. We played around with some large chunks of ice, took a few snaps and just spent some time appreciating the place where we were.
Towards the end, I was just standing at the edge of the island, listening to the chunks of ice hitting the shore, looking out into the distance and really having a mental walk down memory lane. I was just happy being there in that very moment, totally encompassed by Antarctica and its surroundings and still in awe of this trip, this place and this adventure at the end of the world.
At this point, if anyone asks me what it was like, I am not sure I could accurately describe what I experienced last week. Majestic doesn't even begin to describe it. And to make things even more cheesy, as we said goodbye to the icy landscape, icebergs, and snowy landscape, nature awarded us a picture perfect sunset while we were standing at the stern of the ship looking back onto the Antarctic continent for one last time.
To our sides, we saw quite a few pods of whales, seemingly saying goodbye to us, as well. I had told myself before, but right there, right then, again, I really knew that one day, I would come back to Antarctica - to visit this incredible continent that for sure has slightly changed my life. Czytaj więcej
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- Dzień 498
- sobota, 22 lutego 2025
- 🌧 2 °C
- Wysokość: Poziom morza
Bransfield Strait62°58’41” S 60°33’36” W
Anatarctica - Day 10 - One Last Hurray
22 lutego, Bransfield Strait ⋅ 🌧 2 °C
Leaving the Antarctic peninsula behind, we had two more landings to experience. The first landing was on Deception Island followed by Elephant Point. After that, we would set sail back to Ushuaia crossing, once again, the infamous choppy Drake Passage.
Watching the sunset the day before brought a slight lingering sadness, as we had now left icebergs, snowy mountains and the icy Antarctica feeling behind. That said, we were still 'in' Antarctica (ie below the Antarctic convergence) until the evening and I intended to make the most out of it.
Anyway, Deception Island. It lies between the Antarctic Peninsula and the South Shetland Islands and is home to a whaling station that was abandoned in 1969 following a gigantic volcanic explosion. After all, Deception Island is not technically an island, but a volcano - it is dormant, but not inactive.
Since the caldera was flooded with water, we could travel and drop anchor on the sandy chores inside of it. Once on land, we started to explore the abandoned buildings, visited the huge oil tanks that were brought there for whale oil and an abandoned hanger for aircrafts. The caldera provided a good shelter against the harsh winds at sea and made the conditions quite pleasant. I took my time taking it all in, exploring the historical site, wandering around on the black sand, learning about the station's history and just imagining being there during the height of its operation. It must not have been a very easy life here.
On some spots on the beach, I could see steam coming out of the water, emphasising the fact that the volcano is still active. Putting your hand or feet inside the water on those spots was actually quite pleasant given the warm temperature of the water.
Lastly, I walked along the beach to Neptune's Window, which, essentially, is a gap in the mountain that provides a viewpoint either outbound into the ocean or inbound into the volcano, its beaches and the fog that came and left in a regular interval. I lingered there for a while to enjoy the moment and appreciated the quite eerie atmosphere of this place. It kinda is a place I would want to see again in a few decades. Hopefully.
After lunch it was then time for our very last landing of this epic voyage to Antarctica. We dropped anchor just offshore of Elephant Point, which is an island (this time a real one) with loads of Elephant Seals having made this island their home. The Elephant Seals were also the key reason why we stopped here.
Those animals really are gigantic and remarkable at the same time. They could weigh more than a ton and - listen to this - can dive down up to 2km for food. Admittedly, they are not the most beautiful animals and make weird noises that I cannot describe in any other way but to say ‘wet farts'. They all huddled together to keep warm and we could see steam coming out of them, this much body heat they were radiating.
To get to these impressive animals, we took a short walk along the beach. This also gave us a last opportunity to be up and close to the Gentoo Penguins, which over the last week, I have really happened to fall in love with.
It was a cool last landing on this truly spectacular and marvellous voyage, seeing another type of animal up close that we had not really seen before.
And with that, our expedition to Antarctica came to an end. The only thing left was to cross the Drake Passage for one more time before disembarking the MV Plancius in 3 days - on the 25th February.
I will write a proper recap once I have stable ground underneath my feet, but what I can say already, is that this voyage was one of the best things I have ever done in my life. There is an entirely different world out there and I am so extremely happy to have experienced it with my own eyes, stood on it with my own feet and touched it with my own hands.
Antarctica - You truly are remarkable. I have no words for the beauty, the excitement and the adventure you offer. I will see you again! Czytaj więcej
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- wtorek, 25 lutego 2025
- ☁️ -9 °C
- Wysokość: Poziom morza
- 64°50’34” S 62°32’4” W
Antarctica - World Beyond The Imaginable
25 lutego ⋅ ☁️ -9 °C
Being back in Ushuaia, I couldn't shake the feeling that I just had the trip of a lifetime. If you had told me before that I would experience the encounters and views that I had, I wouldn't have believed you or said there is a one in a million chance that I will experience all of that.
Antarctica is a place that is beyond any imagination. It is mind-blowing. The scenery, the wildlife, the Drake, the comradery, the colours, the remoteness, the silence, the noise, the icebergs, the water, the sunrises and sunsets. Not to mention our countless beautiful landings on the continent, the activities such as open-air camping, kayaking, mountaineering, the food and the guides/crew/staff, for me it was a trip that could not have been better. It felt as if all the pieces of a puzzle fit together absolutely perfectly.
I constantly kept reminding myself where I was. Literally at the end of the world, where less than 0.01% of the human population has ever stepped foot on. I felt very privileged, but at the same time grateful that I could afford to be here and see this place with my own eyes.
Pictures, videos and stories do not do the beauty of the place enough justice. It is too magical for that.
I think over the last few posts I have made it abundantly clear what a stunning place Antarctica is. What I was surprised with was how colourful it can be. From the white snow-capped mountains, to the blue water to the otherworldly blue icebergs floating in the water, to the green/gray islands further north on our last day, the red of the penguin poo to the golden sunrises and sunsets. I thought it was mainly white and boy was I wrong.
The other thing that kept me amazed was how no day was ever boring. Even on the 10th day or so when it was time for another landing, there was again something new to discover.
Every day there was something special, something unique, something new to explore and experience. From camping and waking up to a gorgeous sunrise, to seeing countless penguins on different landings (watching them never gets boring!), over going on a kayak to be up close with icebergs and wildlife, to zodiac cruises with a whale encounter that was an experience for the ages, the polar plunge, to climb up a small mountain roped up with snowshoes for stunning views, to a whole face of a glacier calving and creating waves, to a night of BBQ and party on the ship, the endless stories told by the crew, the countless seals that we saw, etc. I could go on and on and on.
With all of that in mind, what were my three highlights if I had to pick?
First of all, it is impossible to do that list, as it would not do justice to all the things that will inevitably be left off of this list. But I will try anyway.
By far the most insane experience was the whale encounter that topped everything - words have not been invented to describe the feeling when we saw it up close. The calving of the face of a glacier in Neko Harbour was absolutely stunning as well. And lastly, the sunrise when we were camping, because it made the entire surroundings look like a painting.
I guess what all these three have in common - and which make them so special - is that none of them can be planned or expected. They all came out of nowhere. It is wildlife and nature after all, and they follow their own rules. And yes, I will also throw in the penguin life as a highlight because I watched them for hours and absolutely loved them every time I saw them (they are too funny, too clumsy, too adorable and too cute to not get an honorable mention)!
In summary, to me Antarctica has a touch that will keep me forever under a spell and the moment I disembarked the boat, I knew that one day, in a few years or decades, I will return. Czytaj więcej
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- Dzień 502–507
- 26 lutego 2025 - 3 marca 2025
- 5 nocy
- 🌬 27 °C
- Wysokość: 25 m
ArgentynaBuenos Aires34°38’11” S 58°21’51” W
Buenos Aires - Football & Party
26 lut–3 mar, Argentyna ⋅ 🌬 27 °C
After a couple of relaxed and quiet days in Ushuaia, I flew back to Buenos Aires. What a contrast that was. From a quiet, magical place at the end of the world to a megacity with millions of people. Travelling really does have its funny moments sometimes.
Anyway, I spent a few days here before heading back to Rio for Carnaval, as there were a few things I still wanted to do. Since I was already here with my dad prior to heading to Brazil, I had already seen all the sights that I felt were important and Buenos Aires did not have that much to offer to justify spending a week here, in my opinion (def the case for Rio, though).
One of the main things I wanted to do was to check out the party scene in town and go to a football game - more specifically to a game of the famous Boca Juniors. Less so for the team, but more so for the legendary stadium and its atmosphere. So, after a day of checking out the San Telmo market, walking around the neighbourhood and doing a really great and funny wine tasting, a couple of people I met at the hostel and I got some tickets for a game.
The legendary stadium has the nickname La Bombonera - The Chocolate Box. I am not sure where the name comes from, but what I can now tell is that the stands are very close to the pitch and the atmosphere is absolutely electric. I naturally had to buy a jersey. Even before the game, the whole stadium was already singing and - I am not lying - kept on singing literally for 90 minutes straight. It was loud, it was passionate, it was incredible.
Atmospheres in German stadiums are already great, but this was next level. The Boca Junior fans were breathing and living football as if the excitement and loyalty to the team were running like blood through their veins. It was also great to see that the team won 1-0, even if the quality of the game was really poor. Like really not good compared to Europe.
Then there were the parties in Buenos Aires. It always started at the hostel, where, for the first time in my life, I won a Beer Pong Tournament. That was an excellent start to the night.
The clubs were vibrant, had great energy and I enjoyed them. We even took a party bus to a club one night. That said, would I say it is an absolute must to go party in Buenos Aires or was it very different to partying in any other city in Europe or the US? Not really, it's pretty similar.
Plus, I had one more very big party to go to the following day, which would turn out to be my very very last stop on this amazing and epic trip around the world - Carnaval in Brazil, more specifically, Carnaval in Rio de Janeiro. Czytaj więcej
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- Dzień 507–510
- 3 marca 2025 - 6 marca 2025
- 3 noce
- ☁️ 30 °C
- Wysokość: 21 m
BrazyliaRio de Janeiro22°54’37” S 43°10’47” W
Rio de Janeiro III - Time For Carnaval
3–6 mar, Brazylia ⋅ ☁️ 30 °C
My very last stop of this absolutely amazing trip around the world brought me, once again, to Rio. More specifically, to Rio during Carnaval. The city was almost unrecognisable, as it was totally packed with people compared to 3.5 weeks ago when I came here the first time.
Even though there were a lot of people, the energy was electric. I met up with a few friends in the morning starting with some Caipirinhas and soon after we were finding ourselves in a blocco. A blocco is basically a street party that consists of funny or little-dressed dancers, a band and a truck that amplifies the music from the band, while slowly making its way through the streets. Around it are people in all sorts of costumes (or what looks like costumes as it is 35 degrees and people were not wearing much!) and lots of vendors selling everything from corn, drinks, caipirinhas, food, etc. It is an incredible atmosphere. Everybody is happy, dancing, celebrating life and just having a good time.
On some days, the Bloccos apparently start from 6am or 7am in the morning. Just imagine all the energy at this time of day. I wasn't there on the weekend, and so did not see an early-morning blacco, but it would've been amazing to see, to be honest.
Anyway, this was pretty much the plan for my last 3 days on the trip. Going to the beach in the mornings and checking out the bloccos around midday and in the afternoon. The first blocco was close to Ipanema beach and the vibe and atmosphere here was just amazing.
People were just happy, leaving all their worries behind for a few hours/days. While we waited for the blocco to start, we had a great time talking to street vendors, other party-goers, etc. I felt like this was the carnaval that I was looking for.
The next day, the plan was to go to two more bloccos, but in the city. So we took the underground and made it to the city around 11am. Each blocco has a theme and I think this one was 'the day of the dead', as the dancers were dressed accordingly. Again, we followed the same program, i.e. getting close to the music and dancers, getting drinks from the street vendors and then just partying as the blocco moves through the streets. While it is indeed packed, it is still a whole lot of fun dancing to the music, seeing happy people (not a frequent occurrence in public in Germany!) and just enjoying the vibe.
Then it was time for the last blocco that started at 4pm. We had a quick bite to eat before the last blocco started. Turned out, it was a 'weed' blocco. It was hilarious. The dancers, band and truck were all dressed in green outfits with the famous plant sign everywhere and the smell of weed accompanying the blocco all the way. It was a massive amount of fun, though (even without smoking). We stayed during the sunset and a bit after before heading back.
On the way back, however, we heard a loud noise coming from an alley. So we checked it out and saw a band practicing - there were a lot of drums and the noise was deafening, as the sound was trapped in that small alleyway.
Carnaval in Rio was an incredible experience. Even though I wasn't there for long (accommodation options are ridiculously expensive), the experience I had there was great and to feel the atmosphere and energy in Rio during that time is just fantastic. I have talked about Brazil and its people before and Carnaval is exactly that but on steroids.
Taking the opportunity to celebrate life, to love oneself (and others), to be happy, to dance, to laugh, more than to just BE in this life, but truly LIVE and LOVE it, even when times are tough sometimes. This is what Brazilians (and most people in Latin America) can do better than any other culture in my experience.
Then it was the day of my return. But since I had a couple of hours to spare in the morning, I made my way to the famous Copacabana beach for a beach walk to think back about the last 17 months. What an absolute banger of a trip that was. I couldn't believe I was going home. Strangely, it felt like it was the right moment to go home. The trip had come to an end.
With memories made to last me more than a lifetime! It was a lingering sadness to leave, but I was looking forward to seeing my family and friends. What a time to be alive! Czytaj więcej
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- Dzień 511
- piątek, 7 marca 2025
- ☁️ 17 °C
- Wysokość: 124 m
NiemcyFrankfurt50°3’4” N 8°34’13” E
Münster, Germany - Home Again
7 marca, Niemcy ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C
The trip of a lifetime has come to an end.
When I was asked what it felt like to be home, my immediate answer was: "As if you have just woken up from an incredibly amazing dream".
This is how it felt. I couldn't believe that 17 months of travelling were over. The time has passed way too quickly and sometimes I can find myself asking: "Did all of that really happen?" Of course it did, and that trip, those memories, those experiences, those cultures, the people I met on the way, the sights that I could see with my own eyes, the things I touched, the food I tasted - all those things will stay with me forever. And I have not a single ounce of regret of going on this epic trip.
I was also asked about my highlights, which is an impossible question to answer. How do you compare a hot air balloon ride over the Masa Mara to the Silver Mines in Potosi for example. There are a few things, though, that I tend to talk about more often than others, which, I guess, is a sign that those were my highlights. In no particular order (except the first three experiences:
Top 3: Antarctica (no.1 because it was absolutely mind-blowing), diving with bull sharks in Fiji (because it's crazy) and visiting the Silver Mines in Potosi (most eye-opening experience of my life!).
After that, it starts from the safari and hot air balloon ride in Africa, Angkor Wat (Cambodia), Ha Giang Loop (Vietnam), viewpoints in Vang Vieng, island-hopping in the Philippines (my new fav country), New Zealand's mountains/Hobbiton, island life on Fiji and Samoa, my time in Antigua (my fav place in the world), Lost City Trek in Colombia, Galapagos and Cotopaxi in Ecuador, Huacachina/Inka Trail and Cusco in Peru, Death Road/Uyuni Salt Flat Tour in Bolivia, hiking Patagonia/Jujuy with my dad, helicopter ride over Iguazu Falls and enjoying life/carnaval in Rio de Janeiro.
And this is a short list in which I have probably forgotten quite a few things. I could easily extend this list by probably 40 more items.
Each place has its own story, its own kind of magic that sometimes I was able to see and sometimes not. For example, to me Asia is incredibly beautiful, while South America is absolutely wild and ridiculously adventurous.
I think one of the most profound things I have learned - especially during my travels in Latin America - is that people can have an incredible love for life. To take every opportunity possible to celebrate life, to laugh and see the world (or the neighbourhood) with an open heart and embrace it - even if or especially when things are hard. To find joy, to dance in life, to be with your friends and family. This is what life truly is about.
Yes, we all have to work, we all have to earn money and we all want a secure and comfortable life. There is nothing wrong with that and it is the basic fabric that keeps our society functioning. But we can do that with joy - that is what I am missing in Germany, as people here often take life too seriously, are in a bad mood, complain about the smallest things and how life has become so difficult and everything is about work. Life is not about work (unless you love what you do!). It is about living, about enjoying this one period of time that we have on this earth.
I know that the lottery of life has been kind to me. Born in Germany, worked in a good job in London, saved a lot to travel the world. That is a privilege that I am deeply aware of. So, I am trying to use that privilege to enjoy this one life, as much as I can. I owe that to myself and to life.
In fact, I have already booked my next little around-the-world adventure. For 5 months I will be touring the world again. After that, though, I definitely need to find a job!
Making a 17 months long story short. I love this life and intend to live it with joy and a smile on my face. Travel is what I love and I will keep doing that until my legs can't walk me anymore and my hands cannot reach for the stars.
From Nairobi to Rio de Janeiro (Nairo2Rio), I have found myself stepping foot on all seven continents and 25 countries and being part of this beautiful planet we call home.
Thank you world, for that you are the most incredible thing that I had the absolute pleasure to get to know! Czytaj więcej































































































































































